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  1. #1

    Default Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Hello all,

    I'd like to buy this fragrance, and I was reading this thread regrading reformulations :

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/309...by-Halston-EDT

    As I understand it, there are three versions :

    1. the original, vintage, which only has oak moss (the best version).

    2. The first reformulation, which has oak moss AND tree moss (still very good)

    3. The current version which has only tree moss (not all that good).

    Does this sound right ?

    If so, can anyone confirm when the first and current reformulations occurred ?

    Many thanks

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    I tend to doubt there was ever a version without treemoss, aka #1.

    I compared a vintage 1983 sample with my 2010 bottle and the only difference to my nose was the lemon had degraded in the old one. I doubt it was reformulated before 2011. I would also say that the current version is considerably worse than "not all that good" -- it's an outright disaster.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Beware, Beware of this dragon of a fragrance. Don't buy it blind. I did it and I gave it for free on the next day.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    I as well picked up this one blind at a Marshall's this year. In it's current formulation is TERRIBLE. Wish I could have experienced the original because there are hints of greatness, but not enough to save it from the bin.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    I can only tell you that it costs $15 for 4.2 oz, but it actually smells like $5.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by DanielPlainview View Post
    I can only tell you that it costs $15 for 4.2 oz, but it actually smells like $5.

    Ha!

    Paul P., I believe you are correct regarding the sequence of events, i.e. there being 3 formulations. I don't know WHEN they occurred though. Not much help here...

  7. #7

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Many thanks gents - I appreciate your time.

    I am thinking of buying a Z-14 gift set. It has EDT and after shave. The EDT has oak moss and tree moss extract, and the after shave has oak moss extract. Does this seem like a good one to get ?

    Thanks again.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    If you have a limited budget, I suggest that you buy PINO SILVESTRE gift set or ACQUA DI SELVA. These are very very affordable perfumes and they are truly good. They smell natural, they are pleasant to your nose, they are not offensive and they are quite masculine. They are also classics. Good classics.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by DanielPlainview View Post
    but it actually smells like $5.
    Agree.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by DanielPlainview View Post
    If you have a limited budget, I suggest that you buy PINO SILVESTRE gift set or ACQUA DI SELVA. These are very very affordable perfumes and they are truly good. They smell natural, they are pleasant to your nose, they are not offensive and they are quite masculine. They are also classics. Good classics.
    I like Z-14 but don't like PS or AdS so it's quite subjective.

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul P View Post
    Many thanks gents - I appreciate your time.

    I am thinking of buying a Z-14 gift set. It has EDT and after shave. The EDT has oak moss and tree moss extract, and the after shave has oak moss extract. Does this seem like a good one to get ?

    Thanks again.
    Yep, if it lists oakmoss you're all good.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
    I like Z-14 but don't like PS or AdS so it's quite subjective.


    But Monkey, be careful not to subjectivize too much. For example, 200 noses may be on one side and 2 noses may be on the other side of a question. It is still a subjetive question, but there is a clear pattern, a majority that defines a standard. You see what I mean?

    - - - Updated - - -

    For example, Imagine that Jean Paul Gaultier created a perfume with a GANGRENE note. The smell of rotting human flesh. There would be 200 people who would abhor the note, but I am quite sure that one or two eccentric noses would find it delightful.

    This is an extreme example, used just to show you that in science there are no absolutes. In perfume appreciation there aren't absolutes either. But inferences can be made about the merits of a fragrance.
    Last edited by DanielPlainview; 1st April 2013 at 10:16 PM.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by DanielPlainview View Post
    But Monkey, be careful not to subjectivize too much. For example, 200 noses may be on one side and 2 noses may be on the other side of a question. It is still a subjetive question, but there is a clear pattern, a majority that defines a standard. You see what I mean?

    - - - Updated - - -

    For example, Imagine that Jean Paul Gaultier created a perfume with a GANGRENE note. The smell of rotting human flesh. There would be 200 people who would abhor the note, but I am quite sure that one or two eccentric noses would find it delightful.

    This is an extreme example, used just to show you that in science there are no absolutes. In perfume appreciation there aren't absolutes either. But inferences can be made about the merits of a fragrance.
    In that case, definitely go with Z-14, which is recognized by many of the finest noses to be a masterpiece in classic masculine perfumery.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    I believe you, Maybe it had that recognition one decade or two ago, but not anymore. It is not the same perfume anymore. Now it smells like bug spray.

    There are countless examples of masterpieces that were completely destroyed over time.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    I just look for oakmoss andbuy it when find it. I really love this cennt and have not even tried the new because I don't want to spoil it. Lots still around with oakmoss if you look. Tom Ford's Italian Cypress runs close second to this--no idea if there is oakmass in that.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul P View Post
    Many thanks gents - I appreciate your time.

    I am thinking of buying a Z-14 gift set. It has EDT and after shave. The EDT has oak moss and tree moss extract, and the after shave has oak moss extract. Does this seem like a good one to get ?

    Thanks again.
    If it is reasonably priced, go for it. I first smelled Z-14 in its most current formulation, and then later got the oakmoss version, which is indeed a noticeable improvement.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by DanielPlainview View Post
    I believe you, Maybe it had that recognition one decade or two ago, but not anymore. It is not the same perfume anymore. Now it smells like bug spray.

    There are countless examples of masterpieces that were completely destroyed over time.
    Well, Monkeybars has stated exactly that. And sorry, Daniel, but we all just expose our opinion here. No scientific hard facts, which are impossible to apply in the field of olfactory perception.
    Kurt smells like Teen Spirit

  17. #17

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by LloydLlewellyn View Post
    Well, Monkeybars has stated exactly that. And sorry, Daniel, but we all just expose our opinion here. No scientific hard facts, which are impossible to apply in the field of olfactory perception.
    If he stated just that, what are we discussing? Oh My!

  18. #18

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by MonkeyBars View Post
    I tend to doubt there was ever a version without treemoss, aka #1.

    I compared a vintage 1983 sample with my 2010 bottle and the only difference to my nose was the lemon had degraded in the old one. I doubt it was reformulated before 2011. I would also say that the current version is considerably worse than "not all that good" -- it's an outright disaster.
    Quote Originally Posted by DanielPlainview View Post
    If he stated just that, what are we discussing? Oh My!
    LOL, he said this. I have a bottle of the old version coming my way, but I must admit that I am looking for a cheap substitute of Italian Cypress...
    Kurt smells like Teen Spirit

  19. #19

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Many thanks to all respondents, especially monkeyBars, for the clarification. I will buy the one I referred to earlier.

    Thanks

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by DanielPlainview View Post
    I believe you, Maybe it had that recognition one decade or two ago, but not anymore. It is not the same perfume anymore. Now it smells like bug spray.

    There are countless examples of masterpieces that were completely destroyed over time.
    Bug spray is pretty accurate. But it wasn't "destroyed over time" -- it was destroyed at one very specifc point (late 2011) by one very specific company and one very specific perfumer who was given one very specific budget.

    Quote Originally Posted by LloydLlewellyn View Post
    LOL, he said this. I have a bottle of the old version coming my way, but I must admit that I am looking for a cheap substitute of Italian Cypress...
    Z-14 performs this role admirably imo.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    I bought a brand-spankin'-new bottle about a year ago. Twenny dolla on ebay. Shipped. Now, I don't know when the perfume was manufactured. I don't know how old it was when I bought it. But I find it to be highly faithful to the first bottle I bought as a tender young grommet in the early 80s. I have a recently-purchased vintage bottle as well - no bar code, limited ingredient disclosures. And I think that the new one smells as good or better. Certainly, for the meaningless cost of a bottle, hard to see how you can do better in any event.

    I think it smells like it cost four or five times what I paid for it. I believe that the original is a magnum opus of modern male perfumery, and whatever the hell it was that I bought last year smelled the same to me. Even wore it a couple of days ago.

    (I don't have the bottle with me but I have photographs of everything so lemme check.)

    I seem to have the tree moss-only one. Maybe I'm just not crazy about oak moss. Actually, I'm pretty sure that I'm not. Even the name oak moss sounds gross. Not that tree moss sounds any better.

    While we're at it, I'm looking at a study posted online called "Opinion on Oak moss / Tree moss - sensitization only" put out by the eggheads at the EC Scientific Committees in 2008. It looks like both mosses contain atranol and chloratranol and tree moss contains less of those allergenic compounds than oak moss does. So maybe tree moss is considered safer. Whatever. Rubbing moss on yourself sounds like something some old, dirty, commune-living hippy would do so thanks for bursting my bubble.

    Returning, if I may, to civil discourse, on the scale of reformulations, Z-14 has been my best experience. In comparison, I find the current-day Santos to be a little less burly and ballsy than it used to be, and I find the Quorum reformulation to be [disappointing]. Viva la Z-14!
    Last edited by Wheatstraw2; 2nd April 2013 at 01:11 AM. Reason: dialed back on the haterade

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Great fragrance. The reformulations have to do with a lot more than oakmoss but Z-14 was always loaded with it. Like hundreds of of other good designer fragrances poorly maintained by various corporations, it sounds like it might not be as good anymore. In its earlier formulations it was much better than something like Italian Cypress.Along with Habit Rouge and a couple of others, Z-14 is a personal favorite of Maurice Roucel's, btw.
    Last edited by pluran; 2nd April 2013 at 03:43 AM.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by DanielPlainview View Post
    If you have a limited budget, I suggest that you buy PINO SILVESTRE gift set or ACQUA DI SELVA. These are very very affordable perfumes and they are truly good. They smell natural, they are pleasant to your nose, they are not offensive and they are quite masculine. They are also classics. Good classics.
    Good decent frags , but nothing like Z-14 ....

    Quote Originally Posted by LloydLlewellyn View Post
    I must admit that I am looking for a cheap substitute of Italian Cypress...

    I have never tried Italian Cypress but over the years i have read 100's of times how Z-14 is a close match .
    So for all those who want more of that Z-14 vibe , do try the following two if you get the chance .

    Vendetta by Valentino , just as smooth & luxurious as vintage Z-14 with an added Citrus & Incense kick .

    Sienna by Crabtree & Evelyn , again similiar with extra florals in the heart region & lasts longer .

    cheers .

    SALES
    JANUARY 2013 ..http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=232133

    *** SPECIAL - LUI ROCHAS , 3.3oz Sealed ***

    FLACON .. Updating Soon flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=43

  24. #24

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    and what about halston 1-12?

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    I have never tried Italian Cypress but over the years i have read 100's of times how Z-14 is a close match .
    So for all those who want more of that Z-14 vibe , do try the following two if you get the chance .

    Vendetta by Valentino , just as smooth & luxurious as vintage Z-14 with an added Citrus & Incense kick .

    Sienna by Crabtree & Evelyn , again similiar with extra florals in the heart region & lasts longer .
    Vendetta pH is a classier, more elegant variation, great stuff! Simon Chang Maestro is related, but greener and mossier; and Givenchy Xeryus is a distant cousin. Sienna is pretty distant too but the cinnamon is sort of reminiscent.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    Quote Originally Posted by voidvader View Post
    and what about halston 1-12?
    It's excellent as well, and has similarly been stripped of oakmoss. Thankfully I picked up a few oakmoss bottles a year or so ago when they went on clearance for $7 each. I like both of these Halstons, but honestly wear 1-12 more frequently.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Halston Z-14 - old / vintage and current formulations

    I have an EA version which I think is several years old (at least a few), with a code of 8N01. This certainly seems like an "old school" scent that is at most somewhat less powerful than it may have been originally. It's not quite as complex or dynamic as some from that era, but this may be the scent that got the ball rolling in that direction, so to speak. I prefer ones like vintage Lapidus Pour Homme to this one but I can certainly see its appeal, and it works for me as change of pace scent.

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