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  1. #1
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    southerngardens's Avatar
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    Default Attrape Coeur from Guerlain

    If you can imagine an amalgam of Mitsouko's spicy peach-jasmine-oakmoss harmony, L'Heure Bleue's romantic violet and the musky sandalwood base of Jicky, you get the feel of Attrape Cœur. Behind this touching name ("heart catcher") you find one of Guerlain's most lavish and fiery perfumes — and one that has gained status as modern classic. Originally conceived in 1999 as a limited edition for Christmas by the talented Mathilde Laurent, who at that time was apprentice under Jean-Paul Guerlain's supervision, it was then called Guet-Apens, meaning "ambush". For a short period thereafter, it made part of Guerlain's Fragrance Collection duo as "No.68", before it finally was featured as the centrepiece for the opening of the renovated Maison Guerlain, presented to media and industry people in a quadrilobe bottle labelled just "Maison Guerlain 7 Juillet 2005". Mathilde Laurent had by then left for Cartier, and it probably felt painful that this beautiful fragrance, Guerlain's best in many years, was signed by an outside perfumer, because it was now officially ascribed to Jean-Paul Guerlain. For the commercial reissue in the new Parisienne line, it took the poetic name of J.D. Salinger's 1951 cult-novel "The Catcher in the Rye", translated as "L'Attrape-Cœurs" in French. Salinger tells the story about a young man who, faced with a hostile adult world, develops a fantasy of catching children and saving them from falling into alienation, phoniness and superficiality. This was the perfume's aim: to catch us with its rich scent and bring us back to our senses. And the perfume was indeed the antidote to superficial. "An essay on amber," as perfume expert Luca Turin notes, of the most delectable and opaque kind, it had an intoxicating, wealthy aroma of spiced Swedish glögg, burning hot and prepared with all sorts of luxurious ingredients: a huge rose and jasmine heart supported by peach, violet, cinnamon, Shalimar's overdosed orris, amber and vanilla, and lots of musk and fiery sandalwood, the latter as fine as that of vintage Jicky. Any flimsy sweetness from amber and fruit was contrasted by oakmoss, dark and leathery. And all these things were put together, not in a messy way but on the contrary layered intelligently like a Babette's Feast: candied indolic jasmine buds flambéed with oak-aged peach brandy. As a consequence of new IFRA restrictions, Attrape Cœur was taken out of production after 2009, to many a Guerlain lover's regret.


    Bottle. Upon release, Guet-Apens was presented in a true copy of the cobalt blue lantern bottle from 1936, also known as "the new Jicky bottle". Box and bottle had a cord and ribbon "bondage" alluding to the ambush theme. When reissued as Attrape Cœur, it came in the Parisienne bee bottle.


    EdP, EdT. The fragrance was born as Eau de Parfum. In 2007, a limited Eau de Toilette version with a slightly more bright (no moss extract on the allergen list) but surprisingly rich feel was put into French duty-free airport shops, misleadingly labelled as "Vol de Nuit Evasion".


    Reformulation. The scent of Attrape Cœur seems identical to Guet-Apens. If anything, maybe a smidgen more peachy up top which is not bad at all. In 2008, treemoss replaced oakmoss, but none of the relative harshness smelled in new Mitsouko is detectable here. Either its concentration is low, or the intensity of the other ingredients overshadows it.

    courtesy of MonsieurGuerlain2.blogspot.com
    Last edited by southerngardens; 6th April 2013 at 04:56 PM.
    Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity - COCO CHANEL

  2. #2

    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's/Unisex Frag Returns

    And your point is..... (since everything is from another BNer's blog)?
    Last edited by Twolf; 6th April 2013 at 02:47 AM.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's/Unisex Frag Returns

    Twolf, it's obvious you don't like me for some reason. It shows in the way you talk down to me and I don't appreciate it. Would you like to tell me why? I posted this just to let members know this frag was being reintroduced and it was cited that it came from Blogspot not Basenotes.
    Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity - COCO CHANEL

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's/Unisex Frag Returns

    I was under the impression this was marketed to women. Has it been reissued again?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's/Unisex Frag Returns

    Dear southerngardens, I'm very flattered that you cite my Attrape-Coeur article. However, this fragrance will not return, sadly.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's/Unisex Frag Returns

    Quote Originally Posted by southerngardens View Post
    Twolf, ... I posted this just to let members know this frag was being reintroduced
    I see, thanks for explaining. Perhaps, it would be helpful if you wrote a short introduction in the OP. I would also like personal issues resolved in the private fashion, please?

    Mr.G, I know 100 per cent we can always rely on your knowledge! *kisses*
    Last edited by Twolf; 6th April 2013 at 01:29 PM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's/Unisex Frag Returns

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. G View Post
    Dear southerngardens, I'm very flattered that you cite my Attrape-Coeur article. However, this fragrance will not return, sadly.
    Mr G,

    I must have read the article wrong. I am in a international fragrance group on Facebook and quite a few members said that they were able to buy it in certain places in Europe,so, I assumed it was going to be reissued. My apologies!

    southerngardens

    - - - Updated - - -

    My apologies to all! The Attrape Coeur is not being re-introduced. I misread the information and took some first hand info as a sign of it being re-introduced, but it was just that it was old stock still being sold in certain places and boutiques.

    So Sorry!

    southerngardens
    Last edited by southerngardens; 6th April 2013 at 04:51 PM.
    Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity - COCO CHANEL

  8. #8

    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain

    I'd like to know where it IS being sold because I want a bottle!

    I'm in London.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain

    I paid something over 20 bucks for a small decant of Guet Apens on ebay, from England, in fact. For the curious, if you don't like Mitsouko, I don't think you will like GA/AC.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain

    I love Mitsy! That's why I would like to try it. What was your impression Jujy?
    Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity - COCO CHANEL

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain

    Capsule review—skanky Mitsy. I get vetiver and maybe some coriander-like or cumin-like at the base in counterpoint to the milky peachy top. Doesn't last, alas. I'll send you the dregs with the other stuff I'll be mailing.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Wore my sample one more time before sending the remaining spritzes to sg. Sprayed crook of left arm, back of L forearm, cleavage, and a fresh jammy top, with Mitsuko on R wrist—all this just before bed. Mitsuko's peach is swapped out for violet, and the drydown is more "bodily", to conscript an adverb in to adjectve duties. I'd call the drydown dirty amber, and I can't go sniffing around for it, I have to wait for it to come and get me, ambush in other words! In fact the drydowm recalls that Dana dimestore diva of my teen years, Ambush. It seems to respond well to sweat as said ambush rises from the chest-y application, so that's my recommendation: apply to the chest not too soon after bathing. Then go ambush your somebody (;

    Sg, let me know if you can think of any scent twins for this baby. I may need a plan B if my old-school aldehyde jones ever comes to an end.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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