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  1. #1
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    southerngardens's Avatar
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    Default Attrape Coeur from Guerlain

    If you can imagine an amalgam of Mitsouko's spicy peach-jasmine-oakmoss harmony, L'Heure Bleue's romantic violet and the musky sandalwood base of Jicky, you get the feel of Attrape Cœur. Behind this touching name ("heart catcher") you find one of Guerlain's most lavish and fiery perfumes — and one that has gained status as modern classic. Originally conceived in 1999 as a limited edition for Christmas by the talented Mathilde Laurent, who at that time was apprentice under Jean-Paul Guerlain's supervision, it was then called Guet-Apens, meaning "ambush". For a short period thereafter, it made part of Guerlain's Fragrance Collection duo as "No.68", before it finally was featured as the centrepiece for the opening of the renovated Maison Guerlain, presented to media and industry people in a quadrilobe bottle labelled just "Maison Guerlain 7 Juillet 2005". Mathilde Laurent had by then left for Cartier, and it probably felt painful that this beautiful fragrance, Guerlain's best in many years, was signed by an outside perfumer, because it was now officially ascribed to Jean-Paul Guerlain. For the commercial reissue in the new Parisienne line, it took the poetic name of J.D. Salinger's 1951 cult-novel "The Catcher in the Rye", translated as "L'Attrape-Cœurs" in French. Salinger tells the story about a young man who, faced with a hostile adult world, develops a fantasy of catching children and saving them from falling into alienation, phoniness and superficiality. This was the perfume's aim: to catch us with its rich scent and bring us back to our senses. And the perfume was indeed the antidote to superficial. "An essay on amber," as perfume expert Luca Turin notes, of the most delectable and opaque kind, it had an intoxicating, wealthy aroma of spiced Swedish glögg, burning hot and prepared with all sorts of luxurious ingredients: a huge rose and jasmine heart supported by peach, violet, cinnamon, Shalimar's overdosed orris, amber and vanilla, and lots of musk and fiery sandalwood, the latter as fine as that of vintage Jicky. Any flimsy sweetness from amber and fruit was contrasted by oakmoss, dark and leathery. And all these things were put together, not in a messy way but on the contrary layered intelligently like a Babette's Feast: candied indolic jasmine buds flambéed with oak-aged peach brandy. As a consequence of new IFRA restrictions, Attrape Cœur was taken out of production after 2009, to many a Guerlain lover's regret.


    Bottle. Upon release, Guet-Apens was presented in a true copy of the cobalt blue lantern bottle from 1936, also known as "the new Jicky bottle". Box and bottle had a cord and ribbon "bondage" alluding to the ambush theme. When reissued as Attrape Cœur, it came in the Parisienne bee bottle.


    EdP, EdT. The fragrance was born as Eau de Parfum. In 2007, a limited Eau de Toilette version with a slightly more bright (no moss extract on the allergen list) but surprisingly rich feel was put into French duty-free airport shops, misleadingly labelled as "Vol de Nuit Evasion".


    Reformulation. The scent of Attrape Cœur seems identical to Guet-Apens. If anything, maybe a smidgen more peachy up top which is not bad at all. In 2008, treemoss replaced oakmoss, but none of the relative harshness smelled in new Mitsouko is detectable here. Either its concentration is low, or the intensity of the other ingredients overshadows it.

    courtesy of MonsieurGuerlain2.blogspot.com
    Last edited by southerngardens; 6th April 2013 at 04:58 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's Frag Returns

    This is not a men's fragrance, I think. I find it more feminine than Mitsouko and even L'Heure Bleue. It's beautiful, though.
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's Frag Returns

    They are marketing to men though. It sounds feminine, but I haven't sniffed this one, yet.
    I'm not OLD...I'm VINTAGE!

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's Frag Returns

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    This is not a men's fragrance, I think.
    Correct.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's Frag Returns

    So, are they re-releasing it? I have the Les Parisiennes bee bottle of this and I would describe it as very feminine and powdery.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's Frag Returns

    No word of a re-release to my knowledge. I picked up a few bottles before it disappeared - doubt we will see the like of it again.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's Frag Returns

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    No word of a re-release to my knowledge. I picked up a few bottles before it disappeared - doubt we will see the like of it again.
    A few bottles, MR? Damn - you do not mess around my friend!

    I have one of the bee bottles, and I'm glad I do, to be honest, though, it's one I haven't gotten around to using much. I just never get around to decanting it. I need to do that - I really liked it when I tried it.

    I haven't heard anything about a rerelease either. Where did you hear about it being rereleased, southerngardens?
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  8. #8
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's Frag Returns

    I went back and spoke to Mr G from the Blogspot where the article was borrowed from and he said that is was not coming back. I read the article wrong. My apologies! However, some members of an international fragrance group on Facebook that I am in have said that they are able to find it in certain locations or boutiques. This appears to be old stock that is unsold in certain places and boutiques.

    So Sorry!

    southerngardens
    Last edited by southerngardens; 6th April 2013 at 05:00 PM.
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  9. #9

    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's Frag Returns

    If you get a chance to buy it the version with Oakmoss (Evernia Prunastri on the label) is slightly better than the last batch they released with Treemoss (Evernia Furfuracea) altho it's just a subtle difference in 'feel' to me . . . either way, it's a masterpiece, utterly unique, and both renditions are worth grabbing hold of. I think Ulrik was here in HK when I was mopping up the last ones available a couple of years ago

  10. #10
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's Frag Returns

    It's one of the best things to smell on a woman, or whoever. Getting the sillage of it will always improve your outlook. That one should always be available at Guerlain. One of the best ever.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain- A Men's Frag Returns

    Mr. G will sometimes put the spotlight on a discontinued perfume from the catalog. It should be brought back! It's better than some in the current range.

    For those that can't find it, perhaps you can get close by layering L'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko, just as Wallis Simpson did many years ago. This is a pretty fantastic combo, judging from my experiments with it using moderately vintage parfum of both. If you haven't tried this and have both, it's worth exploring. I went a bit heavier on the Mitsouko and thought that worked well.
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  12. #12
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    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain

    Nah southerngardens, take it easy, no biggie actually.

    Have recently getting interested in Les Parisiennes line and have a Derby bee reserved, maybe Liu will be next.
    Attrape Coeur sounds like something i would like.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Attrape Coeur from Guerlain

    So does anyone know which boutiques this is still available in?

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