Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Somewhere in the desert
    Posts
    126

    Default On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    Yesterday evening I broke out Mugler Cologne - it was a nice, warm afternoon here and I wanted to see if my memory of it was accurate. Sure enough, it all came rushing back - the steam clean scent, as piercing as I remembered it, followed up by a soapy, wisps of vetiver drydown. It's funny, Bvlgari Pour Homme is my hands-down favorite fragrance, and I assumed Mugler Cologne, with its sparkling (pun intended) reputation would be right up my alley. But every time I wear it, I'm torn between enjoying it's bright, chilly mix of synthetics, almost aldehydic in their opening bite, and finding the whole thing just a little too shrill to ever settle into. (The base, admittedly, does mellow it a bit.)

    Fast forward to this morning when I decided to throw on a newly received decant of Vettiveru. As a vetiver lover, I'd been eagerly awaiting this one, particularly with summer coming and its reputation as a cheery, easy-to-wear citrus/vetiver. A nice citrus opening it did offer, but I was rather surprised that, as Vettiveru dried down, out came the echoes of Mugler Cologne (and, to a lesser extent, Paul Smith Story). Vettiveru, at least on this wearing, turned decidedly clean and zingy, quite a departure from most of my previous experiences with vetiver (Sycomore, Encre Noire, Vetiver Extraordinaire, etc.) And I have to say that, thus far, I'm a bit disappointed by it. I was hoping for something a bit nuttier/earthier, only with a citric opening and perhaps lighten-ing balance. I also got various moments of grapefruit out of Vettiveru, even in the base, thus the nod to PS Story. Now, I enjoy grapefruit quite a bit, and, perhaps because of Story, I feel like I've picked up a grapefruit note (perhaps just grassyness masquerading as it) in vetiver before. Still, at the end of the evening, Vettiveru just didn't offer enough good, rooty vetiver for me. As someone prone to enjoying the non-powerhouses, exemplified by my affection for BpH, I suppose I'm just surprised to find, or perhaps just now accept, that it's those wonderful, rooty, hands-in-soil vetivers I love most.

    Anyway, it's a lovely Saturday evening, and while I was enjoying a cup of tea, I figured I'd jot these thoughts down and see if anyone had thoughts of their own. It's always interesting to hear what others get from a particular fragrance, what notes strike out at them clearest. So, share away - on Vettiveru, MC, Story, the many faces of vetiver, or just whatever you darn well please

  2. #2

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    Try Route du Vétiver by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, if you haven't already. I received a sample of it a a couple months ago, it's quite nice.

  3. #3

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    I agree with you that Vetiveru is more a sort of eau de cologne, in the sense of freshener, that doesn't really last too long. Used this way, it works well, eg for the gym or the like. But it doesn't really seem to give all the satisfaction of a full scale vetiver. I suspect most of the vetiver in there is really the main chemical of vetiver (vetiveril acetate?) rather than the full extract.

    For rootiness without woods (perhaps what you don't like in Encre Noire, Sycomore?), in addition to what already suggested, I'd also recommend the Goutal (now discontinued) or the Lubin.

    cacio

  4. #4
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Somewhere in the desert
    Posts
    126

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I agree with you that Vetiveru is more a sort of eau de cologne, in the sense of freshener, that doesn't really last too long. Used this way, it works well, eg for the gym or the like. But it doesn't really seem to give all the satisfaction of a full scale vetiver. I suspect most of the vetiver in there is really the main chemical of vetiver (vetiveril acetate?) rather than the full extract.

    For rootiness without woods (perhaps what you don't like in Encre Noire, Sycomore?), in addition to what already suggested, I'd also recommend the Goutal (now discontinued) or the Lubin.

    cacio
    Thx for the thoughts, Cacio. Agree it's definitely a fresh take on vetiver, and I suppose that was sort of the point with the whole CDG cologne series. (Speaking of, I've been wanting to try Citrico from that line.) Just not satisfying my itch for the rooty stuff!

    Maybe I wasn't clear, but I LOVE Encre Noire and Sycomore. Definitely gonna have to see if I can track down MPG/Goutal/Lubin. Slowly been working my way through the vetiver library - so many to choose from! Interested to check out Goutal's take in particular, as I've had a hard time getting on board with many of her other scents. The citrus-based one - Eau du Sud/Eau D'Hadrien/etc. - all seem to have, at least to my nose, a similar house-type note that is almost a bit sweaty. My sis, on the other hand, has happily devoured the AG samples I've throw her way, so, as per usual, everyone's got different tastes!

  5. #5
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    McLean, NYC, & Búzios
    Posts
    81,222

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    You might also consider Givenchy, Carlo Corinto & Fragonard Vetiver.

  6. #6
    vita odorifera
    perfaddict's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Lagos
    Posts
    7,532
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    Fresh vetivers with nutty nuances? Perhaps Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver and certainly LT Piver's Vetiver.
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

    #BBOG!

  7. #7

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by bleedredandblue View Post
    it's definitely a fresh take on vetiver, and I suppose that was sort of the point with the whole CDG cologne series.
    Came in to post this. Really all of the reviews stress that it is a fresh eau de cologne style, grassy fresh vetiver without the usual rootiness associated with the ingredient/accord, and it was this that drew me to it. That said, I really need to explore more vetivers. I like the current Guerlain, but it is pretty fresh. I enjoy Sycomore, but I only find it a little rooty/woody. Maybe it's time to familiarize myself with some vetiver essential oils.

  8. #8

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    Sycomore or as @ Darjeeling suggests, pure vetiver oil...

  9. #9

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    Vettiveru has always been a thin, watery vetiver cologne that is one of the few that works well for me when applied with a heavy hand. I need to use at least twice as much as any other vetiver fragrance. Just splash away with this stuff, the opening blast will die down and if you put enough on it will last a while. I like it, but it has a niche very particular scent that everybody may not enjoy. This is a very natural vetiver smell but not the rooty scent of some of the other vetivers, from Reunion Islands for instance. My favorite vetiver scent is Turtle Vetiver Front by Les Nez. This has a good balance of dark green roots that I prefer.

    I have always really enjoyed Paul Smith Story and it is one of the only two fragrances I have gone through two whole bottles of (the other is Mugler Cologne), but have not had any for a year or so. I get more of the lemony grapefruit from PS Story than vetiver. If there is vetiver in it, the amount is tiny, but I do believe it has vetiver. It is a great refreshing fragrance that can be used heavily and works well in hot weather.

    Mugler Cologne has become more and more chemically shallow since it came out. At least that is my perception of it. I went through a splash bottle of Mugler every summer for a few years, but I can not wear it now. The recent versions do not smell as authentically green or vetiverish to me as the original bottles did. Don't know if it is my nose becoming more selective, or if the juice has changed, but it just doesn't work for me any longer. It might be just a change in what I like.
    Last edited by Buzzlepuff; 7th April 2013 at 06:29 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    I've been in a vetiver exploration kick lately myself. I already own Vetiver Extraordinaire, Sycomore, and Guerlain, and I've come to realize that it's a note which works really well on me. So I ordered samples of the Givenchy, Goutal, MPG, Etro, and Vetiver Tonka and Fat Electrician. I already had a sample of Vettiveru laying around which I finally splashed on and really enjoyed.

    So far, my favorite has been the Etro, which after its initial blast turns into a very natural but sufficiently earthy vetiver. The Goutal has a slug of Calone in it, which I just can't abide (and which surprised me). The Givenchy I had high hopes for, and I'll give it another chance, but the "coriander leaf" is, of course, cilantro, and that note creates a dated effect to me. Vetiver Tonka was very pleasant, but reminded me strongly of something else, and also did not smell worth it's crazy price. Fat Electrician I actually liked, despite the odd burning wires opening, and could see owning.

    The problem now is that Etro Vetiver is apparently very tough to get in the US. Barney's carries some Etro, but not that one. Aedes no longer lists it. Maybe I'll just contact Etro directly.

    Oh, and I did try the Dior Vetiver the other week, which was nice, but reminded me strongly of the vetiver in the Guerlain, minus the tobacco. Wasn't sure if it would be redundant.

    (Just applied some of the Route de Vetiver and I'm really enjoying it! It's rich and warm and quite distinct from the others. It's a decant from TPC so I assume its the reformulated version. If so, I could see owning this.)
    Last edited by onethinline; 7th April 2013 at 06:28 PM.

  11. #11
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Somewhere in the desert
    Posts
    126

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzlepuff View Post
    Vettiveru has always been a thin, watery vetiver cologne that is one of the few that works well for me when applied with a heavy hand. I need to use at least twice as much as any other vetiver fragrance. Just splash away with this stuff, the opening blast will die down and if you put enough on it will last a while. I like it, but it has a niche very particular scent that everybody may not enjoy. This is a very natural vetiver smell but not the rooty scent of some of the other vetivers, from Reunion Islands for instance. My favorite vetiver scent is Turtle Vetiver Front by Les Nez. This has a good balance of dark green roots that I prefer.

    I have always really enjoyed Paul Smith Story and it is one of the only two fragrances I have gone through two whole bottles of (the other is Mugler Cologne), but have not had any for a year or so. I get more of the lemony grapefruit from PS Story than vetiver. If there is vetiver in it, the amount is tiny, but I do believe it has vetiver. It is a great refreshing fragrance that can be used heavily and works well in hot weather.

    Mugler Cologne has become more and more chemically shallow since it came out. At least that is my perception of it. I went through a splash bottle of Mugler every summer for a few years, but I can not wear it now. The recent versions do not smell as authentically green or vetiverish to me as the original bottles did. Don't know if it is my nose becoming more selective, or if the juice has changed, but it just doesn't work for me any longer. It might be just a change in what I like.
    Good thoughts here, Buzzlepuff. Agree with your thoughts on Story and MC. I really, really enjoy Story's grapefruity opening, and the grassy kick in the base is, in theory, a favorite accord of mine. Seems that occasionally the accord in Story turns a bit plasticy/synthetic on me, though I don't always notice it. It's what kept me from trying to swipe a bottle of eBay, though. As for MC, I find myself in a similar place, where the accords should theoretically appeal to me, but they have a habit of at times turning far too harsh, chemical-y, etc. (Which is ironic given MC's reputation as a fragrance for those who don't like fragrance. I always thought it was interesting that something as unnantural as MC, even if it happened to smell pleasing, would be the ideal fragrance for such folks.) I continue to keep it around because that piercing blast of cool and green makes complete sense for the hot climate I live in, but I don't find myself reaching for it nearly as often as I'd think.

  12. #12
    Dependent DaveStPaul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Dilettante City
    Posts
    1,030

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    Hi there br&b,

    I love Vettiveru (and Bulgari pH, and Mugler Cologne, too) but recently I splashed some on and had to wash it off not long afterwards. This had never happened before, so I tried to figure out why it felt so wrong. What I decided was that it's just not hot enough outside. Late winter in a northern state, inside all day with the heat on -- I just couldn't do it.

    And that's not usually a consideration for me. Most of what I have works for me most all the time. Even Dior Homme Sport, which is so gingery and summery, I can wear in the winter.

    Anyway, that's a potential reason you were underwhelmed by Vettiveru. Based on your name I'd say you're not far from summer (Tucson, I'd guess ) so give it a try again later. Because it really hits the spot when it's hot. Hopefully it'll shine then, and earn a place in your rotation.

    Cheers.

  13. #13
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Somewhere in the desert
    Posts
    126

    Default Re: On Vettiveru, Mugler Cologne, and Paul Smith Story: Opinions, Impressions, Etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveStPaul View Post
    Hi there br&b,

    I love Vettiveru (and Bulgari pH, and Mugler Cologne, too) but recently I splashed some on and had to wash it off not long afterwards. This had never happened before, so I tried to figure out why it felt so wrong. What I decided was that it's just not hot enough outside. Late winter in a northern state, inside all day with the heat on -- I just couldn't do it.

    And that's not usually a consideration for me. Most of what I have works for me most all the time. Even Dior Homme Sport, which is so gingery and summery, I can wear in the winter.

    Anyway, that's a potential reason you were underwhelmed by Vettiveru. Based on your name I'd say you're not far from summer (Tucson, I'd guess ) so give it a try again later. Because it really hits the spot when it's hot. Hopefully it'll shine then, and earn a place in your rotation.

    Cheers.
    Thanks for the thoughts, Dave. Definitely waiting to see how Vettiveru does once the temps reach triple digits (not quit in Tucson, but close enough Also interested in trying out some of the earthier stuff - Encre Noire is a favorite of mine - in the hottest parts of the summer too. Common sense says it might get a bit overwhelming, but you never know. Anything to keep on enjoying that blessed root!

Similar Threads

  1. bvlgari PH, mugler cologne, paul smith story = nausea inducing... what is it?
    By killer_deep in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 2nd June 2009, 08:54 PM
  2. Paul Smith Story....
    By everso in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 29th December 2008, 04:29 AM
  3. Vetiver: Mugler Cologne vs Paul Smith Story
    By archaic in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 12th November 2008, 06:06 AM
  4. New: Paul Smith Story.
    By cedriceccentric in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 6th May 2008, 02:30 PM
  5. Paul Smith Story
    By rosbergs3 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11th November 2006, 05:58 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000