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  1. #31

    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Quote Originally Posted by DeborahDolen View Post
    I had to look up "codswallop" last night and the main definitions I found in the states was "cod fish scrotum" so I found a way to take that as a compliment.
    Beats the note of whale vomit any day. You actually had me roaring in laughter earlier reading that. It is used as a mild inoffensive word for nonsense over here.

    Quote Originally Posted by DeborahDolen View Post
    Or maybe, just maybe, one of my characters will be named "Mumsy" who creates a perfume that lures everyone away and has such a beautiful scent no one needs to drink the water or eat the food. Maybe we can call the perfume "Mana."
    I would be delighted and I wish I could make such a beautiful scent... maybe, just maybe, soon

    Quote Originally Posted by DeborahDolen View Post
    Am I hired yet?? "))
    Very much so. A good egg.

    It might be interesting to take some historical perfumery books and note the ingredient frequencies there. Could make a good comparison... but no time at the present for me. Too busy. Maybe one day.
    Currently wearing: Mitsouko by Guerlain

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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Quote Originally Posted by Luís Carlos View Post
    With the help of a friend, I had made a compilation of the data contained in http://www.mabelwhite.com/Recipes/PerfumeFormulas.htm few weeks ago for comparison. I just exclude some repeated perfumes and some perfumes without details about notes (top-heart-base). I do not know how to include it in the forum. So, follow the link to download:

    http://www.4shared.com/file/EVTzAsVX...otes_Rank.html

    If we combine notes with similar smells and disregard the “Black violet leaves” we get around at a chart well approximated.
    But I LIKE black violet leaves ! [Do they even exist? ]

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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Thanks Mumsy. I love London. I did some filming and herbalist training at several Napier's locations - right when they were buying Culpeper's. I got to see Covent Gardens and just a ton of places. I like Boot's and I loved the LUSH company at Covent. I am off to bed, it is almost 11 pm Florida time. You all have me pulling my esters and scents out of my wine cooler and taking inventory. BTW I find the 16 Celsius temperature of a wine fridge perfect for expensive or hard to find notes and the glass pretty to display some, like as you would a wine bottle.

    I cannot say the same for guests who think they are about to see a lot of good wine in there. They complain they cannot drink essential oils. It always gives me a good laugh to see the expression on their faces when a bottle of Bulgarian lavender is NOT what they were thinking.

    Like Paul said "whatever it takes to get you there..."

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Thanks for the Love Pass, Deborah...

    Your list has been an interesting thing to ruminate ove, thanks so much for the compilation. It made me look at formulation with a new nose and mind... Which I suppose is what you meant for yourself, and have experienced in your hobby type work. Good on you!

    I'm thinking I will print this out and post it on my Perfumarium wall for references...
    I will crack Gucci Guilty someday. I would bathe in it if I could. I do not like Gucci Guilty Intense - they took the fruity notes out.

    Another thing I do find with fragrances, is that we are all drawn to the same notes. Also repulsed by the same notes. Meaning if I like Chanel #22 as I do, I will probably be attracted to any other perfume with the same overall notes. I wish there was a database you could just slap the notes you really love - into it, and up would pop any perfume on the market that contains all preferences or most of them. Another example, I know a person who loves Tabu - that is heavy on amber as I recall, and I dread amber, preferring musk - but when buying her a perfume I know she will love most anything with amber as part of the formula. I am usually correct when gift giving. And please don't mention a little amber is in Gucci Guilty. I read that, and it is possible. Just not overdone or perhaps done right.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Quote Originally Posted by DeborahDolen View Post
    I wish there was a database you could just slap the notes you really love - into it, and up would pop any perfume on the market that contains all preferences or most of them.
    There already is here on the directory under the advanced search tab. Plus the FG note search function (sorry G but it is useful).
    Currently wearing: Mitsouko by Guerlain

  5. #35
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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Quote Originally Posted by DeborahDolen View Post
    Another thing I do find with fragrances, is that we are all drawn to the same notes. Also repulsed by the same notes. Meaning if I like Chanel #22 as I do, I will probably be attracted to any other perfume with the same overall notes. I wish there was a database you could just slap the notes you really love - into it, and up would pop any perfume on the market that contains all preferences or most of them. Another example, I know a person who loves Tabu - that is heavy on amber as I recall, and I dread amber, preferring musk - but when buying her a perfume I know she will love most anything with amber as part of the formula. I am usually correct when gift giving. And please don't mention a little amber is in Gucci Guilty. I read that, and it is possible. Just not overdone or perhaps done right.
    .....i thought our tastes are much more versatile then they actually are .....that would be nice to analyse how many different notes 1 person can be attracted to, in the top 3% of all perfumes they have ever tried......and see the pattern

    i dont like aldehydes.....so No 22 is out of question for me, now i would say you like Chamade, Dia, Y, First....and such scents?

    and Tabu i so much clove note...much more then amber ..... that sweet, very sweet note.....i am no fan of ambery notes as well, but they are so so different from perfume to perfume that i usualy dont take it into count...if there are other notes in the base as well...very few are pure ambery drydowns

  6. #36

    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    I often do a highly detailed perfume analysis as a gift for friends just for pure perfumers interest. It is very surprising how what you think is varied taste is actually not at all. Ask any friend or do one yourself. Write a list of all the perfumes you have ever worn as staples or really love. Then possibly add a few if you liked them but not so much. Look up your notes and the real story will unfold in front of your very eyes. It has never failed to surprise me yet and I have done loads of them.

    I have just done one for one particular friend and she only gave me four examples, Chanel 5, Guerlain Jardin de Bagatelles, Cherruti 1881 and a not so favourite Chanel 19 but she didn't know why. Upon analysis, it becomes very obvious she loves a huge flower garden, tamed and cultivated but in full bloom. The one she doesn't like has more green bushes and a leather satchel left in it.

    Another friend gave me seven perfumes, and out of seven seemingly 'random' perfumes bearing no apparent relationship with each other. It turned out that five out of seven contained a pomegranate note, one a mulberry and the other blackcurrant bud. Amongst many other similarities. That then gave me the ability to suggest a whole load of other perfumes for her to try that she stood a better chance of liking. I haven't yet asked her if she tried any of them.

    Here is the first for you.

    perfume analysis

    Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain
    loved, stayed on, one squirt lasted all day, not too floral, not too musky

    PS
    Top:- Violet, Aldehydes, lemon, bergamot,
    Middle:- Gardenia, Rose, Neroli, Tuberose, magnolia, Ylang-Ylang, Orchid, Muguet, Narcissus
    Base:- Guerlainade accord + Cedarwood, Musk, Patchouli, Tonka bean, Vetiver

    The perfume unfolds at first by suggesting a spicy musky rose on a sensual animalic background of something even possibly racier than musk, civet or its impression. The rose then turns more liquorishy as it becomes suffused by a sweet and juicy jasmine. In the eau de toilette version the floralcy in general is more clearly counterbalanced by the woodsy notes of violet, iris, vetiver, cedarwood, and patchouli. As the tuberose appears more prominently it is also made less exhuberant thanks to the relative dryness of the woods. The fragrance then develops a characteristic and lasting impression of smelling like the contents of a bottle of sparkling Champagne in which a bouquet of narcotic and indolic flowers would have been put to macerate for the longest of time. It reminds me of what someone said once, that French perfumes are so characteristically successful and part of daily life because they are made to accompany food and blend harmoniously with the aromas of a meal. The soft powdery and dreamy drydown is scented with orris as well as being lightly sweetened by what seems to be dominant accents of Tonka rather than vanilla.
    Overall the impression is one of great elegance. It easily evokes a classically beautiful caryatid sculpture in a park, that of the Château de Bagatelle, a theme after which the flacon was designed with its motif of draped shoulders. If the edp version might suggest more centrally a garden in which luscious white flowers grow ready to enrapture the passer-bys, the edt version makes you think more of the presence of the nearby woods, while remaining as suggestive of divine lushness and its counterpart, human intoxication.*

    Chanel 5
    Chanel 5 preferred to 19 because it was less floral and heavier

    BN (FG)
    Top:- Ylang-Ylang, Neroli, Aldehydes (bergamot, amalfi lemon)
    Middle:- Jasmine, May Rose (Iris, Orris root, Muguet)
    Base:- Sandalwood, Vetiver (Musk, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Amber, Vanilla, Civet)

    Chanel 19
    Found a bit grassy and sharp compared to 5

    BN (FG)
    Top:- Galbanum, Bergamot, Neroli, Hyacinth
    Middle:- Rose, Orris, Jasmine, Narcissus, Muguet (lily of the valley), Ylang-Ylang,
    Base:- Musk, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Leather, Cedarwood (Vetiver)
    Luscious green and woody. Very crisp and dry.

    Cerruti 1881 pour femme
    currently worn

    BN (FG)
    Top:- Bergamot, Freesia, Mimosa, Violet, Blond Woods (Rose, Iris, Muguet)
    Middle:- Rosewood, Chamomile, Coriander, Jasmine, Geranium, Neroli (Narcissus, Galbanum, Iris, Tuberose,
    Base:- Sandalwood, Ambrette, Musk (Cedarwood, Vanilla, Amber)

    Analysis of four.
    We are seeing a very similar story with all four fragrances despite their differences. A citrus beginning, softened by orange blossoms and supported by unusual more gentle, subtle florals. Then the full monty of a flower garden consisting of some huge fat white florals which would be loud if it wasn't for the darker tones appearing in a different way for each. The narcissus is an unusual flower for a composition and appears in three out of four. This is like a shader in the perfume notes and tones down the brightness a bit all over.
    These vibrant gardens of perfumes have regimented flower beds and are strongly supported by woods and greenery to keep them from being haphazard. The dry downs are classics of lovely woods, rich earthy greens, mossy touches to add richness and a tiny addition of sweetness that isn't the sickly kind but more subtle and resinous. There is an animal presence in these gardens that keep the whole thing strong and alive and fertile.
    The sharper of the three is the 19 and in that one only has the addition of a stronger hand with the galbanum at the top, which is giving the green harsher notes and the undercurrent of the leather accord which pulls it from the flower bed a bit and into dryer territory. This may explain why it is liked but not as much because it still possesses all the other elements.
    Fascinating.
    Last edited by mumsy; 25th April 2013 at 12:29 PM.
    Currently wearing: Mitsouko by Guerlain

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Quote Originally Posted by mumsy View Post
    There already is here on the directory under the advanced search tab. Plus the FG note search function (sorry G but it is useful).
    That is FABULOUS !!! I just tried it by using "advanced" and putting the ingredients in that I like the most. Several fragrances came up. This is so cool, I will link it to all the areas I rank for the "note" search.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by mumsy View Post
    There already is here on the directory under the advanced search tab. Plus the FG note search function (sorry G but it is useful).
    That is FABULOUS !!! I just tried it by using "advanced" and putting the ingredients in that I like the most. Several fragrances came up. This is so cool, I will link it to all the areas I rank for the "note" search.

  8. #38
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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Mumsy I just started a blog on here - I did not know was available. Still trying to get my photo to display with comments, but otherwise VERY COOL to also have a "blog" on Base Notes! I will find a reason to be around. A very good smelling reason !

    - - - Updated - - -

    Here it is ! http://www.basenotes.net/blogs/13441617-DeborahDolen

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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    tuberose and lily of the valley top 5? jasmine,peach? this is ridiculous

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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Thanks Mumsy! Your detail to your friend was so lovely! Can you "do me?" Chanel #22, Gucci Guilty, Alfred Sung, Gucci [original]

    Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen Quote Mumsy

    I often do a highly detailed perfume analysis as a gift for friends just for pure perfumers interest. It is very surprising how what you think is varied taste is actually not at all. Ask any friend or do one yourself. Write a list of all the perfumes you have ever worn as staples or really love. Then possibly add a few if you liked them but not so much. Look up your notes and the real story will unfold in front of your very eyes. It has never failed to surprise me yet and I have done loads of them.

    I have just done one for one particular friend and she only gave me four examples, Chanel 5, Guerlain Jardin de Bagatelles, Cherruti 1881 and a not so favourite Chanel 19 but she didn't know why. Upon analysis, it becomes very obvious she loves a huge flower garden, tamed and cultivated but in full bloom. The one she doesn't like has more green bushes and a leather satchel left in it.

    Another friend gave me seven perfumes, and out of seven seemingly 'random' perfumes bearing no apparent relationship with each other. It turned out that five out of seven contained a pomegranate note, one a mulberry and the other blackcurrant bud. Amongst many other similarities. That then gave me the ability to suggest a whole load of other perfumes for her to try that she stood a better chance of liking. I haven't yet asked her if she tried any of them.

    Here is the first for you.

    perfume analysis

    Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain
    loved, stayed on, one squirt lasted all day, not too floral, not too musky

    PS
    Top:- Violet, Aldehydes, lemon, bergamot,
    Middle:- Gardenia, Rose, Neroli, Tuberose, magnolia, Ylang-Ylang, Orchid, Muguet, Narcissus
    Base:- Guerlainade accord + Cedarwood, Musk, Patchouli, Tonka bean, Vetiver

    The perfume unfolds at first by suggesting a spicy musky rose on a sensual animalic background of something even possibly racier than musk, civet or its impression. The rose then turns more liquorishy as it becomes suffused by a sweet and juicy jasmine. In the eau de toilette version the floralcy in general is more clearly counterbalanced by the woodsy notes of violet, iris, vetiver, cedarwood, and patchouli. As the tuberose appears more prominently it is also made less exhuberant thanks to the relative dryness of the woods. The fragrance then develops a characteristic and lasting impression of smelling like the contents of a bottle of sparkling Champagne in which a bouquet of narcotic and indolic flowers would have been put to macerate for the longest of time. It reminds me of what someone said once, that French perfumes are so characteristically successful and part of daily life because they are made to accompany food and blend harmoniously with the aromas of a meal. The soft powdery and dreamy drydown is scented with orris as well as being lightly sweetened by what seems to be dominant accents of Tonka rather than vanilla.
    Overall the impression is one of great elegance. It easily evokes a classically beautiful caryatid sculpture in a park, that of the Château de Bagatelle, a theme after which the flacon was designed with its motif of draped shoulders. If the edp version might suggest more centrally a garden in which luscious white flowers grow ready to enrapture the passer-bys, the edt version makes you think more of the presence of the nearby woods, while remaining as suggestive of divine lushness and its counterpart, human intoxication.*

    Chanel 5
    Chanel 5 preferred to 19 because it was less floral and heavier

    BN (FG)
    Top:- Ylang-Ylang, Neroli, Aldehydes (bergamot, amalfi lemon)
    Middle:- Jasmine, May Rose (Iris, Orris root, Muguet)
    Base:- Sandalwood, Vetiver (Musk, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Amber, Vanilla, Civet)

    Chanel 19
    Found a bit grassy and sharp compared to 5

    BN (FG)
    Top:- Galbanum, Bergamot, Neroli, Hyacinth
    Middle:- Rose, Orris, Jasmine, Narcissus, Muguet (lily of the valley), Ylang-Ylang,
    Base:- Musk, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Leather, Cedarwood (Vetiver)
    Luscious green and woody. Very crisp and dry.

    Cerruti 1881 pour femme
    currently worn

    BN (FG)
    Top:- Bergamot, Freesia, Mimosa, Violet, Blond Woods (Rose, Iris, Muguet)
    Middle:- Rosewood, Chamomile, Coriander, Jasmine, Geranium, Neroli (Narcissus, Galbanum, Iris, Tuberose,
    Base:- Sandalwood, Ambrette, Musk (Cedarwood, Vanilla, Amber)

    Analysis of four.
    We are seeing a very similar story with all four fragrances despite their differences. A citrus beginning, softened by orange blossoms and supported by unusual more gentle, subtle florals. Then the full monty of a flower garden consisting of some huge fat white florals which would be loud if it wasn't for the darker tones appearing in a different way for each. The narcissus is an unusual flower for a composition and appears in three out of four. This is like a shader in the perfume notes and tones down the brightness a bit all over.
    These vibrant gardens of perfumes have regimented flower beds and are strongly supported by woods and greenery to keep them from being haphazard. The dry downs are classics of lovely woods, rich earthy greens, mossy touches to add richness and a tiny addition of sweetness that isn't the sickly kind but more subtle and resinous. There is an animal presence in these gardens that keep the whole thing strong and alive and fertile.
    The sharper of the three is the 19 and in that one only has the addition of a stronger hand with the galbanum at the top, which is giving the green harsher notes and the undercurrent of the leather accord which pulls it from the flower bed a bit and into dryer territory. This may explain why it is liked but not as much because it still possesses all the other elements.
    Fascinating.
    Last edited by mumsy; 25th April 2013 at 08:29 AM.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony T View Post
    tuberose and lily of the valley top 5? jasmine,peach? this is ridiculous
    Why do you think it ridiculous?
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Think your Blog's visible now Deborah.

  13. #43

    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    google searched the mabelwhite.com site I get a not found 404 tried access several listings scrolling down the google page trying to find links ......? has anyone else read/tried the site listings ?
    Last edited by BelleBeryl; 14th May 2013 at 07:42 AM.
    [COLOR=""]a rose is a rose is a rose[/COLOR]

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Deborah is you info compiled from Feminine-marketed scents only?

  15. #45

    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Quote Originally Posted by BelleBeryl View Post
    google searched the mabelwhite.com site I get a not found 404 tried access several listings scrolling down the google page trying to find links ......? has anyone else read/tried the site listings ?
    Probably just one of those momentary Internet things. Earlier I'd accessed the site with no trouble, and it's accessible now also.

    However, to search for notes within the listings, it's necessary to search the http://www.mabelwhite.net/ site.

    For example, "tuberose" appears in 20 pages there. It would be necessary to by hand count how many times on each page.

    EDIT: Which Luís Carlos already did, and posted an Excel spreadsheet for us (above.)
    Last edited by Bill Roberts; 14th May 2013 at 03:41 PM.

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I thought that this was interesting data...

    From Deborah Dolen: "
    If you are just getting started at making perfume, I created a chart, below, as a "basis." I took a list I created a few years ago, of the Top 300 Designer Perfume Blends and created the chart based on that data."

    Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes
    by Deborah Dolen
    Most Popular Top Notes Most Popular Heart Notes Most Popular Base Notes
    1. Bergamot
    2. Peach
    3. Mandarin Orange
    4. Greens
    5. Aldehydes
    6. Lemon
    7. Coriander
    8. Black Currant
    9. Galbanum
    10. Black Violet Leaves
    11. Pepper
    12. Grapefruit
    13. Rosewood
    14. Pineapple
    15. Plum
    16. Raspberry
    17. Marigold
    18. Sage
    19. Tangerine
    20. Apricot
    21. Cardamom
    22. Mango
    23. Lime
    24. Passion fruit
    25. Pear
    26. Petigrain
    27. Strawberries
    28. Water Lilly
    29. Coconut
    30. Ginger
    31. Cassis
    1. Rose
    2. Jasmine
    3. Ylang Ylang
    4. Lily of the Valley
    5. Tuberose
    6. Hyacinth
    7. Orange Blossom
    8. Neroli
    9. Carnation
    10. Iris
    11. Orris
    12. Narcissus
    13. Violet
    14. Gardenia
    15. Geranium
    16. Honeysuckle
    17. Lilac
    18. Orchid
    19. Red Currant
    20. Heliotrope
    21. Wisteria
    1. Sandalwood
    2. Musk
    3. Amber
    4. Vanilla
    5. Oak moss
    6. Patchouli
    7. Vetivert
    8. Civet
    9. Cedar wood
    10. Benzoin
    11. Incense
    12. Tonka Bean
    13. Honey
    14. Moss
    15. Clove
    16. Spices - Anise
    17. Styrax
    18. Opoponax
    19. Bay Rum
    20. Leather











    Perfume Notes Propensity Chart
    © Deborah Dolen 2011
    Interesting... but no lavender?

    I did something somewhat similar back when I had only 164 bottles in the collection (mostly mens). I plotted out the scent accords noted in the basenotes review database for these to come to a possible answer to the question: "What notes most frequently are included in the frags you liked enough to buy?" Incidentally, I threw the top 10 or so in a bottle along with some synth castoreum and civet... not marketable (because I really don't know what I'm doing) but I've thrown together much worse.

    NOTE / PREVELANCE IN INVENTORY
    1. Bergamot (48%)
    2. Sandalwood (43%)
    3. Musk (40%)
    4. Cedarwood (38%)
    5. Patchouli (35%)
    6. Vetiver (34%)
    7. Amber (30%)
    8. Lemon (29%)
    9. Oakmoss (28%)
    10. Lavender (27%)
    11. Vanilla (24%)
    12. Tonka Bean (23%)
    13. Jasmine (23%)
    14. Leather (22%)
    15. Rose (18%)
    16. Geranium (17%)
    17. Black Pepper (16%)
    18. Carnation (15%)
    19. Nutmeg (13%)
    20. Orange (13%)
    21. Cinnamon (13%)
    22. Basil (12%)
    23. Mandarin (12%)
    24. Ambergris (10%)
    25. Cardamom (10%)
    etc
    Wanna Shop? --> Buzier's Sales

    MY TOP 25%: Al Oudh, Azzaro pH, Basala, Bel Ami, Black Afgano, Blackbird, Blend 30, Bull's Blood, Chaps Original, Cuba, DK Men - Fuel, Davidoff '84, Derby, Edition, Elsha 1776, Equipage, Eau d' Hermes, Egoiste Cologne Concentree, Fetish pH, Fougere Royal reissue, Genghis Khan, Green Water, Havana, Jules, Kiehl's Musk, Knize Ten, Kouros, L'Homme Sage, Leather Oud, Loewe pH, Monogram, Montecristo, Musc Ravageur, Olibanum, Perry Ellis for Men Original, Piper Nigrum, Polo, Puredistance M, Santal Noble, Santalum, Sandalo (Villoresi), Tea for Two, Tribute Attar, Ungaro II, Versace l'homme, Yatagan, YSL pH
    Currently wearing: Le Dandy by D'Orsay

  17. #47

    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Quote Originally Posted by DuNezDeBuzier View Post
    Interesting... but no lavender?

    I did something somewhat similar back when I had only 164 bottles in the collection (mostly mens). I plotted out the scent accords noted in the basenotes review database for these to come to a possible answer to the question: "What notes most frequently are included in the frags you liked enough to buy?" Incidentally, I threw the top 10 or so in a bottle along with some synth castoreum and civet... not marketable (because I really don't know what I'm doing) but I've thrown together much worse.

    NOTE / PREVELANCE IN INVENTORY
    1. Bergamot (48%)
    2. Sandalwood (43%)
    3. Musk (40%)
    4. Cedarwood (38%)
    5. Patchouli (35%)
    6. Vetiver (34%)
    7. Amber (30%)
    8. Lemon (29%)
    9. Oakmoss (28%)
    10. Lavender (27%)
    [etc]
    An idea that's helped me so far, but obviously would badly limit a real expert, is that using mostly or entirely materials which are particularly commonly used in perfumes may make it easier to come up with something decent. It also helps narrow down to a more manageable number of components.

    This is out of an idea that materials which are very commonly used almost must tend to be versatile materials, whereas rarely-used materials may tend to be more suited to fitting exact needs quite specific to the formulas they are used in.

    Of course, choosing to never use such materials would be very limiting and is not the idea, but considering them this way may help.

    I don't know for sure if that would be useful advice for anyone else, but putting that in practice has helped me.
    Last edited by Bill Roberts; 14th May 2013 at 07:46 PM.

  18. #48
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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Peach is the second most popular top note? That's a big surprise.

  19. #49

    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Well, anything along these lines is going to be "a" snapshot of something, rather than the picture of how it is. For example, I went perfume shopping for my wife on Christmas, trying to find something she'd like that would be actually good and not one she knows and likes already. What a horrible experience, as of course many have found! Once after smelling a test strip I had to grab something to wipe my tongue, it was that bad!! As well as having to make nose-blowing type efforts to get it out of my sinuses. A vast percentage of the stuff was just horrible: a fact that is all too familiar.

    So, a snapshot of most popular claimed notes among all perfumes available for purchase at a given moment will be one thing, a snapshot of most popular claimed notes among best-sellers could be another, a snapshot of such notes among enduring classics could be still another, etc. At the risk of belaboring the thing.

  20. #50

    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Quote Originally Posted by stuigi View Post
    Peach is the second most popular top note? That's a big surprise.
    Especially as peach isn't peach but more likely to be something like '5-oxodecanoic acid'.... and that's attractive on the notes list ....lol
    Currently wearing: Mitsouko by Guerlain

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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    xxx

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by stuigi View Post
    Peach is the second most popular top note? That's a big surprise.
    how do you write this under your name? :

    Founder- Cosa Nosetrahttp://www.basenotes.net/wardrobe/4661

    i dont know how to put the same thing under my profile??

    basenotes is so slow since yesterday i can not move around spent hours trying to do it?
    Last edited by iivanita; 15th May 2013 at 11:49 AM.

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    Smile Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Paul I am still learning how to post here-and this is a VERY OLD post but I wanted you and a few others to know I went to Grasse, France this Thanksgiving and spent a full day with THREE "noses" and amazing what I learned-which very much applies to the fragrance materials propensity list I created a few years back. So I wrote a long article on how those three stages of notes are constructed--as well as a few materials I never thought about such as "Bamboo" - the article is here:

    http://www.basenotes.net/entries/125...-Deborah-Dolen

    I am not sure I had to leave the entire quote below to talk to you here. There is no simple "reply" button. Hope you are having a good holiday season start.

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I thought that this was interesting data...

    From Deborah Dolen: "
    If you are just getting started at making perfume, I created a chart, below, as a "basis." I took a list I created a few years ago, of the Top 300 Designer Perfume Blends and created the chart based on that data."

    Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes
    by Deborah Dolen
    Most Popular Top Notes Most Popular Heart Notes Most Popular Base Notes
    1. Bergamot
    2. Peach
    3. Mandarin Orange
    4. Greens
    5. Aldehydes
    6. Lemon
    7. Coriander
    8. Black Currant
    9. Galbanum
    10. Black Violet Leaves
    11. Pepper
    12. Grapefruit
    13. Rosewood
    14. Pineapple
    15. Plum
    16. Raspberry
    17. Marigold
    18. Sage
    19. Tangerine
    20. Apricot
    21. Cardamom
    22. Mango
    23. Lime
    24. Passion fruit
    25. Pear
    26. Petigrain
    27. Strawberries
    28. Water Lilly
    29. Coconut
    30. Ginger
    31. Cassis
    1. Rose
    2. Jasmine
    3. Ylang Ylang
    4. Lily of the Valley
    5. Tuberose
    6. Hyacinth
    7. Orange Blossom
    8. Neroli
    9. Carnation
    10. Iris
    11. Orris
    12. Narcissus
    13. Violet
    14. Gardenia
    15. Geranium
    16. Honeysuckle
    17. Lilac
    18. Orchid
    19. Red Currant
    20. Heliotrope
    21. Wisteria
    1. Sandalwood
    2. Musk
    3. Amber
    4. Vanilla
    5. Oak moss
    6. Patchouli
    7. Vetivert
    8. Civet
    9. Cedar wood
    10. Benzoin
    11. Incense
    12. Tonka Bean
    13. Honey
    14. Moss
    15. Clove
    16. Spices - Anise
    17. Styrax
    18. Opoponax
    19. Bay Rum
    20. Leather











    Perfume Notes Propensity Chart
    © Deborah Dolen 2011

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    Default Re: Chart of Most Frequently Used Perfume Notes by Deborah Dolen

    Mumsy I went to Grasse France this Thanksgiving and wrote a more in depth article about how they construct the base, middle and top notes. It was really fascinating and applies to the prevalence chart I wrote some years back that is posted here by Paul. the new article is here http://www.basenotes.net/entries/125...-Deborah-Dolen

    Most definitely I need to adjust my list - and that will take a few weeks. They were using some very cool esters I never thought about-such as bamboo. When I got back home I thought I remembered seeing a three stage desk at a building I just bought and was THRILLED to see it WAS an "Organ" and the chances of that were like slim since the property had zero to do with flavor or perfume. Hope everyone is having a great holiday starter. I lost my lover this summer to leukemia so I will just pour myself into work.
    Last edited by DeborahDolen; 14th December 2015 at 04:10 AM.

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