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Thread: D.S. and Durga

  1. #1

    Default D.S. and Durga

    Anybody have any experience with this house? I noticed they did a scent for J. Crew, and they recently had something featured in GQ but I've never heard a peep about them on BN. Any thoughts?
    Current Top 10:
    1. Leather Oud- Dior
    2. Black Aoud- Montale
    3. M7 Oud Absolu- YSL (I really REALLY like oud)
    4. Green Irish Tweed- Creed
    5. Cuir de Russie- Chanel
    6. Straight to Heaven- By Kilian
    7. Aventus- Creed
    8. Pure Havane- Theirry Mugler
    9. Shalimar EdP- Guerlain
    10.Body Kouros- YSL

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I've tried three: Sir, Freetrapper & Cowboy Grass. Personally didn't care for them at all. Disappeared very quickly on my skin.

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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    It's very difficult to find samples of them, and when I have seen them, they've been expensive, so I've never bothered with them. Most of what has been on basenotes about them is along the lines of what hednic has said.

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    Basenotes Institution 30 Roses's Avatar
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I tried the following at Anthopologie: D.S. & Durga: Pomelo Blossom, Petitgrain Sur Fleur, Shake Shake Senora and Lady Greystock.

    None of them was good enough for me to buy a bottle. I agree about mediocre longevity.
    Stay tuned: I have a number of samples of Penhaligon's newest feminine, Ostara, to share. Will post soon.

    We also still have room in our Penhaligon's Trade Routes Sample Pass--sign up now!
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/400...antium-Lothair

  5. #5
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    They are pretty hard to come by. I like their $ and am waiting for a sample of their latest: Spent Musket Oil.

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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I adore D.S. & Durga. Their Bowmakers is in my Top 10. Cowboy Grass is also a favorite. My one complaint is that they do too many limited editions. Here's a link to their press page: http://www.dsanddurga.com/press/

  7. #7

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    All the ones I've tried have been pretty unrefined and amateurish.

  8. #8

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I'm a fan of this couple. My fave is Burning Barbershop, a complete original

    This one lasts 6 to 8 on me.

  9. #9
    Basenotes Member Janjanjan's Avatar
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    +1 Bowmakers: rich, crisp, strong, and wonderful. Definitely the masculine side of unisex.

    Coriander is one of my all-time favorites (all-time being the last 6 months I've gotten into perfume, but there's a pretty heavy sample ordering/ fragrance counter surfing habit in there, so this still means something)

    I card-tested most of the men's scents and they were a heavy/tonic/medicinal/dudely blur, at least at the top, so I didn't bother working through them. Other women's scents (Silent Grove, Siberian Snow) were unremarkable given my tastes.

    I'm in the middle of a HYLNDS sampler pack now. Pale Grey Mountain struck me as Creed's Royal Water done right, meaning an aquatic take on aromatics with a bitter-citrus top that doesn't fad into a soggy mess within 30 minutes. Isle Ryder is a cold, flinty jasmine that has longevity issues. Dunno yet on Bitter Rose but will soon. I am such a sucker for the marketing on this line, talk about up my alley. Not sure it walks the talk though.

    So they are a mixed bag in my mind, but definitely some gems worth plucking out. And damn do I LOVE their bottles and design work, just superb for my tastes.

  10. #10
    Super Member Fhaoilgeal's Avatar
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    Smile Re: D.S. and Durga

    Quote Originally Posted by Janjanjan View Post
    I'm in the middle of a HYLNDS sampler pack now. Pale Grey Mountain struck me as Creed's Royal Water done right, meaning an aquatic take on aromatics with a bitter-citrus top that doesn't fad into a soggy mess within 30 minutes. Isle Ryder is a cold, flinty jasmine that has longevity issues. Dunno yet on Bitter Rose but will soon. I am such a sucker for the marketing on this line, talk about up my alley. Not sure it walks the talk though.
    ... And damn do I LOVE their bottles and design work, just superb for my tastes.
    Janjanjan, like you, the HYLNDS fragrances (and story line) grabbed my attention and fit in with my fascination with Scotland and Celtic mythology. My take on Bitter Rose Broken Spear from a post on another website:

    Having just worn Bitter Rose Broken Spear, I have to say that given the description is Ossian in its prose and lyricism, the fragrance itself is hyper realistic, a kind of olfactory painting of what its like to walk the fecund barrenness of Scotland’s muirs and enjoy time in a pub warmed with a peat lit fireplace. There is a red berry and/or iron note hidden in the middle like a sgian dubh.For me Bitter Rose Broken Spear is a bulls eye of a fragrance, herbal, peaty, woody, with red berries, iron, and an amber wisp layering with the other scents like a fire growing old and into embers.

    I've just received Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake and it shares many similarities with Bitter Rose Broken Spear, but as you mention has an aquatic take on the herbal and aromatic theme. I'm not sure how D.S.creates the olfactory imagery of elevation - BRBS is only as high as the hill of Dunadd and for me is quite a bit more about the moorlands, while PGMSBL does suggest coming down into a lochen from the heights of surrounding hills. Both fragrances are similar but topographically different if that makes any sense at all. PGMSBL seems more austere and bracing, while I find more depth (possibly the berry and amber notes) in BRBS.

    I didn't have any longevity issues with Isle Ryder at all, but it was more jasmine than mead on me and while I enjoyed it, it didn't speak to me of the Outer Hebrides as much as I would have liked. It has garnered some interest and praise here on Basenotes, but it's the one of the four that I'd likely not wear often

    I'm sampling Spirit of the Glen tonight (as a fragrance not a whisky) and it is a surprisingly strong vanilla and wood scent that is starting to evolve nicely. Not at all like the other three HYLNDS scents and possibly the most accessible of the four.

    My favorite is still Bitter Rose Broken Spear because it does evoke most of its story line for me.

    I really look forward to learning your further take on the HYLNDS line!
    “interpretation is the revenge of the intellect upon art.” - Susan Sontag

  11. #11
    Basenotes Member Janjanjan's Avatar
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Oh my, you are right Fhaoilgeal. I wore Bitter Rose yesterday and it was great! Definitely my favorite of the HYLNDS line as well. I almost didn't sample it because I don't like a lot of rose. But this is one has a flinty spice to it that covers any strong floral impression. Big thumbs up here!

  12. #12
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I found their house style to be bold, in-your-face notes mixed with 'natural' longevity (meaning below average) and high prices. Not, IMO, a way to win over BN fans but perhaps it works for them in the general marketplace.

    One scent that does stick in my mind, a very Middle-Eastern scent, was My Indian Childhood. Sort of the smell of a 'place' rather than a fragrance per se, it reminded me of something that Christopher Brosius would do (for CB I Hate Perfume). Very intensely spicy.

    I do like Burning Barbershop and I own one full bottle of Smoked Amber that they used to sell at Anthropologie years ago (an animalic very sweet and intense smoky amber) but I stopped exploring the line after several others really didn't work on my skin.
    "Human interaction can be hell. Or it can be a great spiritual practice."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  13. #13

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I own Siberian Snow which is more an insence fragrance to me than this narcotic jasmine as which it is marketed. Longevity is more than average on my skin. I tested Silent Grove which reminded me of Light Blue (women). My Indian Childhood was to dense for my taste. Coriander is, as I remember, a modern light woody musky thing.

  14. #14
    Basenotes Member Janjanjan's Avatar
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Coriander is a tangy, uplifting aromatic green, sharp and clear, grounded and uncomplicated. I love the smell of coriander, so for folks that do it's fun to see it center stage in a scent.

    Like mikeperez23, I thought My Indian Childhood was one of their stronger women's scents. Very spicy, and somehow fuller/more complete than some of the other feminine compositions. Must be a lover of Indian spices to enjoy, however!

    I also agree with graphite that the incense is more prominent in Siberian Snow than is jasmine.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I am really enjoying Bitter Rose, Broken Spear. Does anyone know of similar takes on rose? (bitter, spicy, flinty)? Or alternatively, bitter/spicy/woody?I am having trouble filtering through the bazillion fragrances containing rose that would qualify. Excited about the possibility of finding a floral I don't hate, which is nearly every one I've tried.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Enjoying Bitter Rose Broken Spear (love the name!) even as I'm typing this. The flinty resinous facet (birch tar?) is indeed an interesting juxtaposition to the rose element. I've smelled many rose fragrances but I don't remember smelling anything quite like it. You might want to try Kilian Rose Oud or Histoires de Parfums' Rosam.

  16. #16

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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I was surprised to find the Hylnds perfumes in Barney's NY the other day. New London Pharmacy also carries the regular line.

    Isle Ryder started out really promising but then it felt like a huge jasmine and a huge patchouli pushing and shoving to be in the middle of the frame. Didn't care for it.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Interested in Spirit of the Glen. Anybody else tried this one?
    Last edited by Duke Hunt; 28th October 2014 at 07:49 AM.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Quote Originally Posted by Duke Hunt View Post
    Interested in Spirit of the Glen. Anybody else tried this one?
    I am blown away by this. For me it is the prototype of a whiskey perfume, smoky as a whiskey barrel, spicy, slightly sweet. Starts quite strong and develops into a woody, subtle club-scent. I am feeling sitting in a bar of a scottish castle with leather chairs, a whiskey in one hand and a fine cigar in the other. Beautiful.

  19. #19

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Disappeared very quickly on my skin.
    This has been my experience also. I did try most of the line from their sample pack and did like a few, but no legs at all on my skin.

  20. #20

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Quote Originally Posted by fly777 View Post
    I am blown away by this. For me it is the prototype of a whiskey perfume, smoky as a whiskey barrel, spicy, slightly sweet. Starts quite strong and develops into a woody, subtle club-scent. I am feeling sitting in a bar of a scottish castle with leather chairs, a whiskey in one hand and a fine cigar in the other. Beautiful.
    well then, that sounds rather promising...
    Tom Ford Splits!!!! - Tobacco Vanille, Tuscan Leather, Oud Wood, Noir de Noir - PATCHOULI ABSOLU
    Plum Japonais, Italian Cypress, Neroli Portofino, Costa Azzura, Azure Lime, Champacca Absolute

    HARD TO FIND - Lavender Palm, Arabian Wood, and AMBER ABSOLUTE, etc...


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  21. #21
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Quote Originally Posted by fly777 View Post
    I am blown away by this. For me it is the prototype of a whiskey perfume, smoky as a whiskey barrel, spicy, slightly sweet. Starts quite strong and develops into a woody, subtle club-scent. I am feeling sitting in a bar of a scottish castle with leather chairs, a whiskey in one hand and a fine cigar in the other. Beautiful.
    Excellent. What about its performance? Longevity? Projection?

  22. #22
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Quote Originally Posted by Duke Hunt View Post
    Excellent. What about its performance? Longevity? Projection?
    Perfect on me. Longevity 12 hours, projection moderate to heavy.

  23. #23

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I have Boston Ivy and Burning Barbershop.

    Boston Ivy is very good. It's a fresh and green scent with a subtle earthiness (dirt) and sweetness that resembles mint (it's the ivy). Feels appropriate on cool fall days. Cool sweet ivy that's been uprooted and shaken off with a trace of the soil still on its roots.

    Burning Barbershop is good too, but it has a rough opening. Mesquite barbecue meat smoke and a mint note that reminds me of of Skoal wintergreen chewing tobacco. That goes on for about 20 minutes and then it becomes really nice. The smoke settles in, lavender and vanilla emerge, and the mint softens up and stops resembling chewing tobacco. My only concern is how often I'll wear this. I really like it after the initial 20 minutes. It's kind of weird. It could end up becoming a favorite or wind up on the chopping block.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Like many indie lines, their output is interesting but uneven. I've sampled about a dozen on them: I love $ and Cowgirl Grass and will always regret not picking up those two when they were around. The others were either bland ( their citruses ), discordant ( My Indian Childhood ) or interesting but too ephemeral to be wearable ( Siberian Snow ).

    Worth exploring, but I wouldn't recommend blind buying any of them.

  25. #25

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Have been sampling many of the D S & Durga line and so far I find this house to be very rewarding. Over half of those I've tried are bottle worthy to me. I've tried only a couple of their Hylnds series but both were excellent. The regular line is well priced and the only drawback I've seen is some are not as strong or long lasting as other brands - but I would just spray double on those.

    My favorites in the group are:

    Bitter Rose Broken Spear - backwoods bits, rose wine, rusted iron with added melancholy.
    Burning Barbershop - A little lavender and a lot of burning wood. Similar to Fumoir or Bois d' Ascese but with a fougere twist.
    Mississippi Medicine - If you had a chest cold you should douse in this. It has an old fashioned coal tar and birch cough medicine vibe.
    Bowmakers - masculine scent of the inside of a wooden barrel maker shop. Very woody, resinous.
    Coriander - very light green and ethereal. Reminds of cross between original Signoricci Andree Putman Preparation. Nice one.
    Sir - dark amber patchouli and other spices.
    Debasser - maybe the nicest light fig fragrance I've tried. Isn't too heavy on the fig and is more an unfocused light green woods.
    STARTING ROTATION: DSD Cologne du Parfumeur • CDG Jaisalmer • TDC Sel d' Vetiver • Javanese Patchouli • Azemour les Orangers • Bergamote 22 • Bois d' Ascese • DSD Bowmakers • Ex Idolo Thirty Three • AA Erdenstern • DSD Boston Ivy • Bitter Rose Broken Spear • Platinum Egoiste • LL Santal 33 • BtV Oxford [/FONT]

  26. #26
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I also like their Boston Ivy. It's a sort of fresh green ivy scent, with a bit of green moss, and a pinch of salty notes (or sea water). It's sort of a "marine" fragrance without having calone in it (like the ever popular Acqua di Gio or Cool Water are overloaded with). It's more "green" than "blue" if that makes sense. It's nice and soft in feel, not jarring strong like Sel Marin or similar aquatic scents. Very well done. Could be a perfect office scent as it's polite and not overly strong, but definitely has its presence.

    Have a bottle of Burning Shop as well - talk about strange composition, at first, at least! Definitely lavender, but first impression is that of a burning wood building (hence "Burning Barbershop", I guess). But it blends so well with the lavender that it's actually a very enjoyable composition. Uncommon, different, but very good.

    Haven't tried Bowmakers yet, but your description above makes me almost blind buy a bottle. ;-)

    Oh, has anyone noticed that D.S.&Durga has raised prices on their web site, followed by same new prices on LuckyScent site? Indigo Perfumery still has the original prices, if anyone's interested in ~27% discount.

  27. #27

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Quote Originally Posted by remik View Post

    Oh, has anyone noticed that D.S.&Durga has raised prices on their web site, followed by same new prices on LuckyScent site? Indigo Perfumery still has the original prices, if anyone's interested in ~27% discount.
    I hadn't noticed this.

    I don't think D.S. & Durga is good enough to warrant an increase in price though. While a moderately priced niche company, I still felt as though the standard $100 a bottle (50 ml) was pushing it for them. Sort of feel like they should be in the $65--75 range.

  28. #28

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Quote Originally Posted by remik View Post
    Oh, has anyone noticed that D.S.&Durga has raised prices on their web site, followed by same new prices on LuckyScent site? Indigo Perfumery still has the original prices, if anyone's interested in ~27% discount.

    Yup. You want to know why? Same reason Nasomatto raised their prices when they arrived at Neimans. Same reason Frapin raised their prices when they got into Barney's.

    D.Durga is now fully available at Barneys. Not just the Hylnds line. So there you have it.

    I was told that Byredo is also going to raise prices as well.

  29. #29

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I really enjoyed my sample of boston ivy, but was a bit disappointed by cowboy grass.

  30. #30

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    ^ Good stuff. My favorite was Sir. But i got sidetracked and forgot to buy it at the clothing store that i saw it at. Then i forgot about it completely. I'll have to go back there and see if its still $106. Anymore is not worth it.

  31. #31

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I like the Hylnds line. Smells very unique and outdoorsy!

  32. #32
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    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Quote Originally Posted by aphexacid View Post
    Yup. You want to know why? Same reason Nasomatto raised their prices when they arrived at Neimans. Same reason Frapin raised their prices when they got into Barney's.

    D.Durga is now fully available at Barneys. Not just the Hylnds line. So there you have it.

    I was told that Byredo is also going to raise prices as well.
    They have been in Barneys pretty much since day 1. It is only recently they have started to find their way to other outlets.

  33. #33

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    i tried the entire line and really did not think much of any of them, the only one that was different and could have fooled me for a cdg type scent was boston ivy. it was a very leafy scent(think as if you took a piece of ivy and ripped the leaf in half and smelled it...very leafy, pretty linear...wearable...not so much....bowmaker smelled like turpentine...burning barbershop smelled like a chemical mess, and missisippi medicine smelled like tar and chemical mess..i tried a few others but cannot remember the names or scent because they were so forgetable...the only thing this company has is a good marketing team behind it or some connections in the industry. from what i remember they were pretty potent though
    14 sprays of DRAKKAR NOIR should do it

  34. #34

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    Quote Originally Posted by PalmBeach View Post
    They have been in Barneys pretty much since day 1. It is only recently they have started to find their way to other outlets.
    The regular DS/Durga line? Or the Hylnds? I know the website JUST got the regular DS/Durga line. And i can't say for sure, but i don't think Barney's Chicago had the regular line, only Hylnds.

    I remember for Nasomatto, it went - Price Increase, next week appears on NM.com and in NM stores. Same thing with Frapin.

    It's like as soon as they can capitalize on a broader market, up goes the price.

  35. #35

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I noticed their prices did go from $105 to $145 for the 50 ml. But is it a fair price? Pricing for 50 ml. fragrance collections from Indie brands that confront the big time seem to always go up. Especially if they plan to continue to grow their business. I watched Slumberhouse go from $65 to $160 in the two year period that it became well known. Matriarch's Blackbird is now $300 for a 60 ml. bottle - worth it? Tom Ford's Private Blend 50 ml.'s went up to $210 from $185 last year. DS does not have the breadth and pedigree of a TF but I am really liking their fragrances. I am able to own and enjoy more DS&D fragrances than Tom Ford Private Blends - but that's my taste I guess. I am enjoying about the same percentage of DS collection as I like the Armani Prive's and they are lots cheaper than these. In an inflationary fragrance world, $145 might be the new $105 for a unique niche line of 50 ml. fragrances that wants to grow their company!? I think it's a fair price. I hope they keep up the development of new fragrances, its fun to watch the development and it does take money to keep reinvesting in the line breadth.

    It took me a while to decide I like this line and I needed the more recent ones to get a handle on the D.S. Durga aesthetic, but I like the feel of almost everything they have done recently. The fragrances tell little stories - and I wish they would play up the their inspiration and backgrounds more in their marketing. Some fragrances are a little too sedate and underplayed - too cool - but these are mostly the older ones.

    What is the D.S. Durga aesthetic? There is a darkness that comes from slow growth culture or old patterns of nature blended with a post modern aesthetic in these fragrances. Burning Barbershop kind of personifies the brand to me. But also Mississippi Medicine and Bowmakers. Along with these dark rooted traditional tones they also do some very subtle green naturals that have an honest but ethereal natural mystical purity about them. The green ones I like are: Debasser, Pale Grey Mountain, Coriander, Boston Ivy, Siberian Snow. DS&D is a very fresh take on fragrance built from older and natural notes. The brand reminds me of the atmosphere you find in Austin, Portland or Brooklyn.

    If I were suggesting to DS Durga I would suggest these things:
    1) Drop the Hylnds sub brand and put them all into one brand - one price for all.
    2) Put the name of each fragrance on the front or side of the bottle so its easier to collect a series and know which is which. Currently the name of each is in small print on bottom and you can't tell what it is when on the shelf.
    3) Put the history or story / inspiration for each with each bottle as a collectors page. Then periodically list all the collection with their stories on website.
    4) Retire the slow sellers that aren't as good from the entire line. Tom Ford is great at doing this. Early retirement of some from the collection increases the collecibility of the whole group and also the reinforces the idea that there are more to come in the collection.
    STARTING ROTATION: DSD Cologne du Parfumeur • CDG Jaisalmer • TDC Sel d' Vetiver • Javanese Patchouli • Azemour les Orangers • Bergamote 22 • Bois d' Ascese • DSD Bowmakers • Ex Idolo Thirty Three • AA Erdenstern • DSD Boston Ivy • Bitter Rose Broken Spear • Platinum Egoiste • LL Santal 33 • BtV Oxford [/FONT]

  36. #36

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    I loved Mississippi Medicine, hated that fact it lasted what seemed to be just short of a couple hours...
    MadHat Scents

    MadHat Peel - (Citrus, Fruit, Bergamot, Vetiver, Woods) Limited Edition Summer Fragrance ONLY 25 Bottles Available *15 of 25 Remaining Currently

    Embers (Un-burned Incense, Campfires, Leather and Resins) / Khus (NEW - Vetiver (Ruh Khus)-Sandalwood-Geranium) (Frankincense-Lavender-Green Birch Leaves) / Jour et la Nuit (***SALE OF REMAINING 95ml***) (Animalic-Chypre-Blood Orange-Smoky)

  37. #37

    Default Re: D.S. and Durga

    After trying many of the DS&D for a second wearing I can see the critique that they are short lived. Some lose their fragrance really quickly and some others just seem to die away and not really resolve into a complete fragrance type. Compared to other niche lines their perfuming feels a little amateurish. But no denying a few of their models are very original and worthy while some others are disappointing.
    STARTING ROTATION: DSD Cologne du Parfumeur • CDG Jaisalmer • TDC Sel d' Vetiver • Javanese Patchouli • Azemour les Orangers • Bergamote 22 • Bois d' Ascese • DSD Bowmakers • Ex Idolo Thirty Three • AA Erdenstern • DSD Boston Ivy • Bitter Rose Broken Spear • Platinum Egoiste • LL Santal 33 • BtV Oxford [/FONT]

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