I've tried three: Sir, Freetrapper & Cowboy Grass. Personally didn't care for them at all. Disappeared very quickly on my skin.
Thread: D.S. and Durga
Anybody have any experience with this house? I noticed they did a scent for J. Crew, and they recently had something featured in GQ but I've never heard a peep about them on BN. Any thoughts?
Current Top 10:
1. Leather Oud- Dior
2. Black Aoud- Montale
3. M7 Oud Absolu- YSL (I really REALLY like oud)
4. Green Irish Tweed- Creed
5. Cuir de Russie- Chanel
6. Straight to Heaven- By Kilian
7. Aventus- Creed
8. Pure Havane- Theirry Mugler
9. Shalimar EdP- Guerlain
10.Body Kouros- YSL
I've tried three: Sir, Freetrapper & Cowboy Grass. Personally didn't care for them at all. Disappeared very quickly on my skin.
It's very difficult to find samples of them, and when I have seen them, they've been expensive, so I've never bothered with them. Most of what has been on basenotes about them is along the lines of what hednic has said.
I tried the following at Anthopologie: D.S. & Durga: Pomelo Blossom, Petitgrain Sur Fleur, Shake Shake Senora and Lady Greystock.
None of them was good enough for me to buy a bottle. I agree about mediocre longevity.
They are pretty hard to come by. I like their $ and am waiting for a sample of their latest: Spent Musket Oil.
I adore D.S. & Durga. Their Bowmakers is in my Top 10. Cowboy Grass is also a favorite. My one complaint is that they do too many limited editions. Here's a link to their press page: http://www.dsanddurga.com/press/
All the ones I've tried have been pretty unrefined and amateurish.
I'm a fan of this couple. My fave is Burning Barbershop, a complete original
This one lasts 6 to 8 on me.
+1 Bowmakers: rich, crisp, strong, and wonderful. Definitely the masculine side of unisex.
Coriander is one of my all-time favorites (all-time being the last 6 months I've gotten into perfume, but there's a pretty heavy sample ordering/ fragrance counter surfing habit in there, so this still means something)
I card-tested most of the men's scents and they were a heavy/tonic/medicinal/dudely blur, at least at the top, so I didn't bother working through them. Other women's scents (Silent Grove, Siberian Snow) were unremarkable given my tastes.
I'm in the middle of a HYLNDS sampler pack now. Pale Grey Mountain struck me as Creed's Royal Water done right, meaning an aquatic take on aromatics with a bitter-citrus top that doesn't fad into a soggy mess within 30 minutes. Isle Ryder is a cold, flinty jasmine that has longevity issues. Dunno yet on Bitter Rose but will soon. I am such a sucker for the marketing on this line, talk about up my alley. Not sure it walks the talk though.
So they are a mixed bag in my mind, but definitely some gems worth plucking out. And damn do I LOVE their bottles and design work, just superb for my tastes.
Having just worn Bitter Rose Broken Spear, I have to say that given the description is Ossian in its prose and lyricism, the fragrance itself is hyper realistic, a kind of olfactory painting of what its like to walk the fecund barrenness of Scotland’s muirs and enjoy time in a pub warmed with a peat lit fireplace. There is a red berry and/or iron note hidden in the middle like a sgian dubh.For me Bitter Rose Broken Spear is a bulls eye of a fragrance, herbal, peaty, woody, with red berries, iron, and an amber wisp layering with the other scents like a fire growing old and into embers.
I've just received Pale Grey Mountain, Small Black Lake and it shares many similarities with Bitter Rose Broken Spear, but as you mention has an aquatic take on the herbal and aromatic theme. I'm not sure how D.S.creates the olfactory imagery of elevation - BRBS is only as high as the hill of Dunadd and for me is quite a bit more about the moorlands, while PGMSBL does suggest coming down into a lochen from the heights of surrounding hills. Both fragrances are similar but topographically different if that makes any sense at all. PGMSBL seems more austere and bracing, while I find more depth (possibly the berry and amber notes) in BRBS.
I didn't have any longevity issues with Isle Ryder at all, but it was more jasmine than mead on me and while I enjoyed it, it didn't speak to me of the Outer Hebrides as much as I would have liked. It has garnered some interest and praise here on Basenotes, but it's the one of the four that I'd likely not wear often
I'm sampling Spirit of the Glen tonight (as a fragrance not a whisky) and it is a surprisingly strong vanilla and wood scent that is starting to evolve nicely. Not at all like the other three HYLNDS scents and possibly the most accessible of the four.
My favorite is still Bitter Rose Broken Spear because it does evoke most of its story line for me.
I really look forward to learning your further take on the HYLNDS line!
“interpretation is the revenge of the intellect upon art.” - Susan Sontag
Oh my, you are right Fhaoilgeal. I wore Bitter Rose yesterday and it was great! Definitely my favorite of the HYLNDS line as well. I almost didn't sample it because I don't like a lot of rose. But this is one has a flinty spice to it that covers any strong floral impression. Big thumbs up here!
I found their house style to be bold, in-your-face notes mixed with 'natural' longevity (meaning below average) and high prices. Not, IMO, a way to win over BN fans but perhaps it works for them in the general marketplace.
One scent that does stick in my mind, a very Middle-Eastern scent, was My Indian Childhood. Sort of the smell of a 'place' rather than a fragrance per se, it reminded me of something that Christopher Brosius would do (for CB I Hate Perfume). Very intensely spicy.
I do like Burning Barbershop and I own one full bottle of Smoked Amber that they used to sell at Anthropologie years ago (an animalic very sweet and intense smoky amber) but I stopped exploring the line after several others really didn't work on my skin.
"When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"
-- Eckhart Tolle
I own Siberian Snow which is more an insence fragrance to me than this narcotic jasmine as which it is marketed. Longevity is more than average on my skin. I tested Silent Grove which reminded me of Light Blue (women). My Indian Childhood was to dense for my taste. Coriander is, as I remember, a modern light woody musky thing.
Coriander is a tangy, uplifting aromatic green, sharp and clear, grounded and uncomplicated. I love the smell of coriander, so for folks that do it's fun to see it center stage in a scent.
Like mikeperez23, I thought My Indian Childhood was one of their stronger women's scents. Very spicy, and somehow fuller/more complete than some of the other feminine compositions. Must be a lover of Indian spices to enjoy, however!
I also agree with graphite that the incense is more prominent in Siberian Snow than is jasmine.
- - - Updated - - -
I am really enjoying Bitter Rose, Broken Spear. Does anyone know of similar takes on rose? (bitter, spicy, flinty)? Or alternatively, bitter/spicy/woody?I am having trouble filtering through the bazillion fragrances containing rose that would qualify. Excited about the possibility of finding a floral I don't hate, which is nearly every one I've tried.
Enjoying Bitter Rose Broken Spear (love the name!) even as I'm typing this. The flinty resinous facet (birch tar?) is indeed an interesting juxtaposition to the rose element. I've smelled many rose fragrances but I don't remember smelling anything quite like it. You might want to try Kilian Rose Oud or Histoires de Parfums' Rosam.
I was surprised to find the Hylnds perfumes in Barney's NY the other day. New London Pharmacy also carries the regular line.
Isle Ryder started out really promising but then it felt like a huge jasmine and a huge patchouli pushing and shoving to be in the middle of the frame. Didn't care for it.
Interested in Spirit of the Glen. Anybody else tried this one?
Last edited by Duke Hunt; 28th October 2014 at 07:49 AM.
Tom Ford Splits:Noir de Noir, Neroli Portofino, Lavender Palm, Plum Japonais, Champacca Absolute, Tobacco Vanille ONE LEFT: Italian Cypress, Patchouli Absolu, Amber Absolute, Tuscan Leather, Oud Wood
Most of the time I am very proud of the Basenotes community. Time after time I have witnessed the thoughtfulness, empathy & genuine friendship that members of this community extend to others - oldtimers & newcomers alike. There are other times, however, when egos get the upper hand and civility goes out the window. My philosophy is that I won't say anything here that I would not say if you were standing in front of me. Welcome to Basenotes, each and every one of us. ~ TwoRoads
I have Boston Ivy and Burning Barbershop.
Boston Ivy is very good. It's a fresh and green scent with a subtle earthiness (dirt) and sweetness that resembles mint (it's the ivy). Feels appropriate on cool fall days. Cool sweet ivy that's been uprooted and shaken off with a trace of the soil still on its roots.
Burning Barbershop is good too, but it has a rough opening. Mesquite barbecue meat smoke and a mint note that reminds me of of Skoal wintergreen chewing tobacco. That goes on for about 20 minutes and then it becomes really nice. The smoke settles in, lavender and vanilla emerge, and the mint softens up and stops resembling chewing tobacco. My only concern is how often I'll wear this. I really like it after the initial 20 minutes. It's kind of weird. It could end up becoming a favorite or wind up on the chopping block.
My wardrobe is up to date.
Like many indie lines, their output is interesting but uneven. I've sampled about a dozen on them: I love $ and Cowgirl Grass and will always regret not picking up those two when they were around. The others were either bland ( their citruses ), discordant ( My Indian Childhood ) or interesting but too ephemeral to be wearable ( Siberian Snow ).
Worth exploring, but I wouldn't recommend blind buying any of them.
Have been sampling many of the D S & Durga line and so far I find this house to be very rewarding. Over half of those I've tried are bottle worthy to me. I've tried only a couple of their Hylnds series but both were excellent. The regular line is well priced and the only drawback I've seen is some are not as strong or long lasting as other brands - but I would just spray double on those.
My favorites in the group are:
Bitter Rose Broken Spear - backwoods bits, rose wine, rusted iron with added melancholy.
Burning Barbershop - A little lavender and a lot of burning wood. Similar to Fumoir or Bois d' Ascese but with a fougere twist.
Mississippi Medicine - If you had a chest cold you should douse in this. It has an old fashioned coal tar and birch cough medicine vibe.
Bowmakers - masculine scent of the inside of a wooden barrel maker shop. Very woody, resinous.
Coriander - very light green and ethereal. Reminds of cross between original Signoricci Andree Putman Preparation. Nice one.
Sir - dark amber patchouli and other spices.
Debasser - maybe the nicest light fig fragrance I've tried. Isn't too heavy on the fig and is more an unfocused light green woods.
favorites now: • petit malin • bigarade concentree • tzora • lemon in zest • camellia intrepid • adp essenza • smn patchouli • mississippi medicine • "on the road" • oud shamash • bdv oxford • millesime imperial • anat fritz classical • btv chelsea •
I also like their Boston Ivy. It's a sort of fresh green ivy scent, with a bit of green moss, and a pinch of salty notes (or sea water). It's sort of a "marine" fragrance without having calone in it (like the ever popular Acqua di Gio or Cool Water are overloaded with). It's more "green" than "blue" if that makes sense. It's nice and soft in feel, not jarring strong like Sel Marin or similar aquatic scents. Very well done. Could be a perfect office scent as it's polite and not overly strong, but definitely has its presence.
Have a bottle of Burning Shop as well - talk about strange composition, at first, at least! Definitely lavender, but first impression is that of a burning wood building (hence "Burning Barbershop", I guess). But it blends so well with the lavender that it's actually a very enjoyable composition. Uncommon, different, but very good.
Haven't tried Bowmakers yet, but your description above makes me almost blind buy a bottle. ;-)
Oh, has anyone noticed that D.S.&Durga has raised prices on their web site, followed by same new prices on LuckyScent site? Indigo Perfumery still has the original prices, if anyone's interested in ~27% discount.
CURRENTLY ACTIVE SPLITS:
Arquiste: EL ..... 18.21 Man Made: Sweet Tobacco Spirits
Tom Ford: Ombré Leather 16 / Vert d'Encens / Vert De Fleur ..... Slumberhouse: New Sibet
Serge Lutens: Fille en Aiguilles ..... Comme des Garcons: Wonderoud ..... Maison Francis Kurkdjian: Grand Soir / Petit Matin
Dusita: Oudh Infini ..... Valentino: Uomo Intense
Chanel: Boy ..... Amouage: Myths Man / Beloved Man / Interlude Man
Tauerville: TUBEROSE / VANILLA / INCENSE / ROSE Flash ..... Gerlain: Habit Rouge Dress Code ..... Frapin: Passion Boisée
Le Labo: Thé Noir 29 / Poivre 23 ..... Christian Dior La Collection Privée: Vetiver / Oud Ispahan / Gris Montaigne
Maison Francis Kurkdjian: APOM pour homme / Cologne Pour Le Soir / Lumière Noire Pour Homme / Amyris Homme / OUD Satin Mood
Roja Dove: Amber Aoud Crystal Parfum / Aoud Crystal Parfum / Scandal Pour Homme EdP / Danger Pour Homme Parfum
Creed: Jardin d'Amalfi / Royal Mayfair / Spice and Wood / Pure White Cologne
I don't think D.S. & Durga is good enough to warrant an increase in price though. While a moderately priced niche company, I still felt as though the standard $100 a bottle (50 ml) was pushing it for them. Sort of feel like they should be in the $65--75 range.
Yup. You want to know why? Same reason Nasomatto raised their prices when they arrived at Neimans. Same reason Frapin raised their prices when they got into Barney's.
D.Durga is now fully available at Barneys. Not just the Hylnds line. So there you have it.
I was told that Byredo is also going to raise prices as well.
I really enjoyed my sample of boston ivy, but was a bit disappointed by cowboy grass.
^ Good stuff. My favorite was Sir. But i got sidetracked and forgot to buy it at the clothing store that i saw it at. Then i forgot about it completely. I'll have to go back there and see if its still $106. Anymore is not worth it.