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  1. #1

    Smile SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    I am a huge fan of a certain type of chypre that is warm, autumnal, slightly sweet, very rounded.

    It is present in three discontinued fragrances: Schiaparelli's SHOCKING, Raphael's REPLIQUE and Houbigant's APERCU.

    If you know any of these, you know what scent I am talking about. It was also the scent of Caswell-Massey's long
    discontinued CHRYSANTHEMUM potpourri.

    One can spend a few dollars acquiring SHOCKING and REPLIQUE on Ebay, but at least APERCU was re-released [original formula] in 2000 and is still available online.

    I wonder if any of you out there are fans of these scents and this "type" of chypre. If so, I would welcome your input as to wording to describe it as a chypre. Obviously my first choice is "warm autumn chypre," but please do wax poetic and let me know how you would describe this niche genre scent.

  2. #2

    Default Re: SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    This type of fragrance can be a bit shocking to some noses. Nowadays, they all need citrus, florals, moss (synthesis)and usually amber or patchouli. Most seem to have a touch of dryness, but the rounded ones can be most beautiful and often brooding and sexy. My favourite is the modern version of Bandit by Robert Piguet. There is a stinging top note of galbanum mixing with a heady bouquet of florals before the viciously handsome leather note appears, which finally merges with the patchouli and oakmoss(synthetic). The journey takes my breath away -- especially when that leather accord appears.

  3. #3

    lilybelle's Avatar
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    Default Re: SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    Not as old as the others mentioned, but I think Givenchy Ysatis has that warm, golden autumnal quality.

  4. #4

    Default Re: SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    Try Flambeau by Faberge, the three notes are suprisingly full of variation and always remind me of the golden leaves, warm ashes of bonfire as well as woolen blanket with a tint of spicy basenote.
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    Default Re: SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    Vintage Shocking is one of my favorite perfumes. Unfortunately, I have not smelled the others, but since you mentioned them, you make me want to go track some and smell.

    I would describe Shocking as honeyed animalics. Rosy top, then warm and slightly dirty. As Kaern was saying, sadly very much out of fashion today. I'm not even sure I'd describe it primarily as a chypre, it is clearly miles away from the elegant Mitsouko. Nor autumnal - warm it is, but it doesn't really remind me of the autumn.

    cacio

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    Basenotes Junkie Curly11's Avatar
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    Default Re: SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    Does anybody have an opinion on Deneuve? It seems chypre-ish to me, but my nose is not as experienced as others on this thread.

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    Default Re: SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    Quote Originally Posted by Curly11 View Post
    Does anybody have an opinion on Deneuve? It seems chypre-ish to me, but my nose is not as experienced as others on this thread.
    I have! In my opinion, Deneuve is one of the most gorgeous and luxurious classic chypres ever created, extremely smooth and complex, deeply green and mossy with superbly blended florals, fruit, woods, herbs and a touch of leather ...warm, sultry, quite opulent, and intensely feminine. Although it's one of my all-time favorite perfumes, I rarely recommend it since it's so very scarce, but this is definitely one for all chypre-lovers to watch for ...simply stunning.
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    Basenotes Junkie Curly11's Avatar
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    Default Re: SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    Yes, Evangeline, I also think it is a beautiful, classic perfume. But, woe is me, it has given me a bad headache each time I've worn it. What a shame. I'm glad I was able to smell it a few times at least. Was sorry to discover that it never really got going in the U.S.

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    Default Re: SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    I love Aperçu. I'm sorry I just now saw this post. I also think you might appreciate Estée Lauder-Azuree. I'll return with some more thoughts.

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    Default Re: SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    Warm and autumn certainly conjure up vintage Fabergé Flambeau, a favorite of mine this time of year. Don't know that I'd call flambeau a chypre, tho this could be because i generally find chypre to be a "cool" genre.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: SHOCKING, REPLIQUE, APERCU - warm autumn chypres of the past

    Tabac Blond & Dioressence are a couple of my favorites for fall. The best Tabac Blond is from Paris where the alcohol is potable. (Creamiest, strongest kind). Of course, the vintage Dioressence is best.

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