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  1. #1

    Default Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Hey all,

    I've been sniffing and jotting down notes on Phoenicia Perfumes for some time now, and was planning on starting discussion thread for the brand, but I wanted to wait until we'd settled back into the new/old site first. These scents have been mentioned in other forums, and there's been some peripheral discussion about them here and there, but as the brand has some cool new things on the horizon, I figured it was time to get something more concrete going.

    Once we get the fragrance database side of things settled, I'll transfer some of these thoughts over to the appropriate review sections; but for now, perhaps those of you who've had chance to try them can chime in. Also, David, the perfumer, is a member of Basenotes, so perhaps he'll drop in now and again to give us some updates on projects that he's working on and shed some more light on some of his scents.

    I've reviewed Far NWest, Gone But Not, Reucher Fleuri, Realoud, Realoud Feral, and my personal favorite, Skin Graft. I'll post piece by piece whenever I get chance, but I'll start with one of the more eponymous ones—and one of the only fragrances that I know of that has a skunk note it.

    * * * * *

    Far NWest

    Screen Shot 2013-10-31 at 11.36.05 PM.jpg

    Fir, caraway, cedars, skunk, choya loban.

    Because of the nature of the material involved, this is a scent that’s undergone some fine-tuning since I first tried it, and the final result was worth the wait as David balanced what must be a challenging material to work with quite nicely. I first tried this at the FRAGments event earlier in the year and it was this and Skin Graft that piqued my interest in the first place. As I’m sure is the case with many, I was curious to see how the sulfurous, rubbery smell of skunk was being used, and it’s definitely the centerpiece of this one.

    When I’d first tried it earlier in the year, the main note didn’t strike me as being all that strong. Instead, I got more of a coniferous blend than anything else. With subsequent versions, the levels developed into what they are now, and the final result marks a tension between compelling and challenging; it’s pitched just right for the materials involved. In earlier versions, the spruce-like coniferous notes dominated, but now they harmonize with the distinct odor of the skunk to produce a unique twist on the dirty musk genre. A parallel might be drawn to Juniper Ridge’s Caruther’s Canyon in that Far NWest is essentially a dirty, forest floor scent, but whereas the former is literally “nature in a bottle,” Far NWest is more of an aesthetic composition, building a bridge between mimetic representation and creative, imaginative rendering.

    Perhaps the best way to describe the effect of this is too talk briefly about what a skunk actually smells like for those who’ve never had the (mis)fortune of smelling one. Contrary to what Warner Bros. might lead you to believe, the smell of a skunk isn’t all that offensive. It’s more intriguing than repulsive, drawing associations to rubbery, almost ammoniac scents; its very tenacious, and somewhat thick and oily smelling. It’s not barnyard, nor does it resemble human body smells, instead it leans more toward a synthetic, industrial type scent that you might expect to find in, let’s say, glue of some kind. It’s mixed here some underlying conifer notes that don’t stand out as particularly identifiable, but they do swing more toward blue/green wet pine and spruce type notes that you might expect to smell while trudging through forest close to the Pacific coastline. The coniferous notes harmonize with the rubbery notes of the skunk to produce a jarring, yet oddly energizing combination that stays fairly linear through its lifespan. Without question, it’s skunk—and anybody who’s experienced that scent will recognize it immediately—but here it is presented tastefully and without the kind of sensationalism that you might expect from such a unique material.

    This is the kind of scent that could be too easy to dismiss as a gimmick or a hook into the rest of the line. And while that’s largely what drew me into David’s world, Far NWest doesn’t rely on the skunk as a gimmick—instead, it’s tastefully handled and crafted in a manner than should be of interest to anyone who finds themselves drawn to animalics or dirty scents in general. This is hardly a versatile fragrance—but it’s one that you might find yourself reaching for whenever you need a touch of woodsy filth in your life.

    So, has anyone else tried this one yet? How skunky is too skunky? Anyone else run into prominent skunk notes elsewhere?

    * * * * *

    Up next: Gone But Not
    Last edited by deadidol; 6th November 2013 at 08:48 AM.

  2. #2
    Basenotes Junkie hoschhti's Avatar
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    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Very nice review! I have an earlier version and the new "skunkified" version with the vintage juice described in his blog is on the way to me. When it arrives I will do a comparison between the two versions.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Gone But Not

    Screen Shot 2013-11-02 at 12.30.26 AM.jpg

    Fruit, elemi, cognac, white rose, jasmine, musk.

    According to Phoenecia’s own blurb, Gone But Not is an imaginative merging of Jean Patou’s Joy and Jovan Musk with a whack of harsh, caustic hairspray added for good measure. At the outset, the scent’s quite fresh-smelling, but it does also feel natural and rich (I’d smelled an earlier version of this as well and it smelled far more industrial than its final release). The rose is readily apparent in the mix, boozed up by the honeyed-cognac and a touch of dirty jasmine that tries to edge its way into the picture. There's a slight edible, juicy quality to to this, but it's not overly fruity in a sickening, synthetic sense. Rather, the industrial edge is present lending the fragrance an air of synthy complexity despite the fact that it's primarily natural materials throughout. Elemi serves as a balancing component, attenuating the composition's brightness to keep it from exploding into something tacky, but it also partners up with the musk to create what is arguably the scents strongest asset. The musk is sightly furry with a touch of sweetness to it (a bit like Kiehl's Musk), but the elemi compliments it brilliantly by offering a sort of fatty frankincense tone.

    What’s smart about this scent is the pairing of the industrial, phantom-synthetic aspects to the rich, bodied naturals. This oxymoronic combination is effective in that the fragrance does indeed latch itself onto your memory. The result is a surprising, unlikely grouping of notes that works better than it probably should. While it’s not as blindingly original as something like Skin Graft, it’s a solid offering for fans of yellow, slightly citrusy scents who aren’t afraid to wander into highly unnatural territories.

    How do people feel about the kind of industrial notes that CdG uses in many of their scents—specifically the ones that have an aerosol type effect? I can't help but think of their EdP2011, Standard, and Odeur 71 in relation to this, but the natural components spin this one off in that they juxtapose rather than blend, which makes it all the more fascinating.
    Last edited by deadidol; 5th November 2013 at 03:15 PM.

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    Basenotes Junkie hoschhti's Avatar
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    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Nice review again! I was first wondering about the name of the perfume, but it's about dead rock stars who are Gone But Not... forgotten and still present with their music - the Kurt Cobain under the perfumes! According to a Youtube-video it's David's favourite perfume of his line.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by hoschhti View Post
    Nice review again! I was first wondering about the name of the perfume, but it's about dead rock stars who are Gone But Not... forgotten and still present with their music - the Kurt Cobain under the perfumes! According to a Youtube-video it's David's favourite perfume of his line.
    You know, the title had me thinking it would be some crazy musk trick—you put it on and it appears to be gone but it's not. But yeah, he'd mentioned the rock star thing, but I don't get anything specifically rock and roll from it. As far as concept and scent go, I think Skin Graft aligns the two most succinctly.

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    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Very interesting reviews, dead. Thanks for going to the trouble. I'll be on the lookout for your other takes on this line.
    Currently wearing: Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

  7. #7

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    I've got them all lined up (sans editing), so I'll post them soon.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Thank you, D.I. - I was reading the website the other day and wondering who the stockist is over here as they definitely appear to be worth pursuing.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Realoud

    Screen Shot 2013-11-03 at 10.51.16 PM.jpg

    Hindi oud, Laotian oud, Bulgarian red rose, ruh khus, classic spices, animalics.

    Note: Because of the nature of the materials used in this scent and the difficulty involved in sourcing with consistency, variations are a possibility in Realoud, and the batch that I’m discussing is from August 2013.

    This is very special, but it's a difficult scent to pull off, and certainly not one for the those who lean toward more mainstream compositions. It opens up intensely fecal and bitter with a truly scary blue cheese type note, but settles fast into a more hay / straw type of thing that’s really fascinating and enjoyable. The rose balances it out and tames some of the more challenging aspects of the ouds, but this would still be a difficult wear in many social scenarios. But once the brutal opening has passed and the materials have started to blend a little more on the skin, the scent shifts toward a more earthy, barnyard direction with a fantastic grassy vetiver that holds the whole thing together and keeps the scent alive for an admirable stretch. This is on-par with some of the far more expensive (real) ouds on the market today, but for those who think that Creed’s Royal Oud, MFK’s Oud, and Tom Ford’s Oud Wood are actually oud scents, this one should serve as instructional to what real oud actually smells like. While it’s textured and quite fascinating, it’s an animalic and difficult scent—after all, it’s real and not some domesticated synthetic replica. Me? I love it!

    * * * * *

    Up next: Realoud Feral!
    Last edited by deadidol; 5th November 2013 at 03:14 PM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Thank you for posting that, D.I. - there are a few in this range that caught my eye, so your exploration will be keenly followed!

  11. #11

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Realoud Feral

    Screen Shot 2013-11-04 at 10.24.48 PM.jpg

    Bengali agarwood, roses and jasmine, amber accord, musk.

    You’d think that, given the characteristics of the excellent but difficult Realoud, this would be a real challenge, bordering on the unwearable — but it’s not at all. While it’s clearly built upon the same set of principles that allows Realoud to simply trounce more marketable “oud” scents, the materials here are a little divergent, resulting in more of a different wear rather than one that simply ramps up the filth.

    It opens incredibly strong, cheesy, and somewhat rotten smelling (again), but actually feels a little subdued in contrast with Realoud. It goes grassy, but has a slightly different scent profile that seems more woody whereas Realoud has that definite grass dry down. Like its twin, the opening is again quite difficult and off-putting, but it's just a minor hurdle to get you to a deep, evocative oud that very animalic and barnyard, but comforting as well. While I think it would be hard to choose between them, Feral’s the way to go if you’d prefer more of the wood chip impression, whereas Realoud places vetiver at the center of the scent. Great stuff, but again, totally different to what’s pedaled as “oud” today and so probably one for the purists rather than the mainstream.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Great reviews as always, deadidol! The others sound conceptually fascinating, engaging, challenging even, but your accounts of Realoud and Realoud Feral convince me I need to sample this line... somehow. I don't know which part of "intensely fecal" I should expect myself to like, but "truly scary blue cheese type note" that "settles fast into a more hay / straw type of thing that’s really fascinating and enjoyable" sounds like my idea of fun. Did the sample set come with R. Feral as well?

  13. #13
    Dependent TNBLUEMIKE's Avatar
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    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Excellent reviews for a reference point. I'll be honest I hadn't heard of this house up until now. Gone but not really intrigues me as does Far N West. As time progresses I will keep checking back. Very informative.

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    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Yes - thank you for making the time to do this for us all, D.I.

    This unfettered approach to perfumery gives me great hopes for the future!

    Will definitely be reading this thread with interest.

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    Dependent james1051's Avatar
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    Cool In Re: Skunk smells

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post

    Far NWest

    Screen Shot 2013-10-31 at 11.36.05 PM.jpg

    Perhaps the best way to describe the effect of this is too talk briefly about what a skunk actually smells like for those who’ve never had the (mis)fortune of smelling one. Contrary to what Warner Bros. might lead you to believe, the smell of a skunk isn’t all that offensive. ..... Without question, it’s skunk—and anybody who’s experienced that scent will recognize it immediately—but here it is presented tastefully and without the kind of sensationalism that you might expect from such a unique material.
    Bzzzt, Sorry! You lost me there. I don't need Hollywood to tell me what a skunk smells like--have experienced it first hand too many times to count (my dogs like to chase them). Skunk is a hideous! If you think MKK is a scrubber, you should try skunk! And it doesn't come off too easily. I grew up in the Northwest tramping around in the woods. Coniferous forest? Yeah that can appeal. Skunk? nope. Here are a couple of other scents you can encounter in or near NW forests that I do not recommend for perfume: Paper Mills. Volcanic mudpots. Bears. Forest Service outhouses.

    Razzing aside, I always read DI's reviews with interest and am happy to see the thread on a line I'd like to know more about. Look forward to sampling their non-skunk fragrances!

  16. #16

    Default Re: In Re: Skunk smells

    Quote Originally Posted by james1051 View Post
    Bzzzt, Sorry! You lost me there. I don't need Hollywood to tell me what a skunk smells like--have experienced it first hand too many times to count (my dogs like to chase them). Skunk is a hideous! If you think MKK is a scrubber, you should try skunk! And it doesn't come off too easily. I grew up in the Northwest tramping around in the woods. Coniferous forest? Yeah that can appeal. Skunk? nope. Here are a couple of other scents you can encounter in or near NW forests that I do not recommend for perfume: Paper Mills. Volcanic mudpots. Bears. Forest Service outhouses.

    Razzing aside, I always read DI's reviews with interest and am happy to see the thread on a line I'd like to know more about. Look forward to sampling their non-skunk fragrances!
    Ha! I'm around skunk quite often, too (in fact, I can smell one lurking around nearby as I type this). Yeah, this is not going to be for everyone by any means, but keep in mind that it's blended in such a way that it turns into something else on the skin. Don't get me wrong, it's still kind of extreme, but it's not just skunk. (Although when you smell it from the bottle, you'd be inclined to think that it is!) Anyhow, I'll post my personal favorite, Skin Graft up next.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Skin Graft

    Screen Shot 2013-11-05 at 9.19.09 PM.jpg

    Honey, Iso-E, Jasmine Sambac, Opoponax, Cedar.

    While the description of Far NWest is what initially drew me to the line, it was Skin Graft that really got my attention. This is one of those cases in which a formalist analysis of the fragrance—simply focusing on what it does and how—is difficult as this is clearly an autobiographical endeavor, one whose narrative both colors and is colored by the fragrance itself. It's my personal favorite from the line as it smells totally avant-garde, yet its surprisingly comforting as well, which speaks to the story behind it (which I'm not going to recount here, but I'm sure many of you are aware of David's experience with Stephen Johnson Syndrome).

    It's quite a linear scent that kicks right into gear and stays there for most of the journey. Essentially, what it’s doing is integrating jasmine with opoponax in a manner that allows the grittiness of the opoponax to battle with the calming effect of jasmine, and it's all structured upon a base of honey that never really reads as an identifiable note unto itself, playing instead a largely foundational role. What's astounding about this seemingly simply pairing of opoponax and jasmine is that, when placed against the honey, it produces a plastic-y scent that's akin to the smell of BandAids (yes, really). The cedar notes lend a medicinal, almost disinfectant kind of tone to the mix; and despite the fact that the fragrance is 95% naturals, I do get hefty dose of Iso-E Super that brings an oil-like shimmer to the overall blend. Once the notes settle into place on your skin, what Skin Graft essentially boils down to is a honeyed jasmine over a bed of Iso-E. It's hard to do justice and describe what this scent does without actually wearing it as the listed notes don't seem like they'd be able to create the evocative effect they create without the use of a massive amount of rubbery synthetic molecules. Yet, when you focus in closely on how the scent is structured, you find that opoponax and jasmine really are the two central players, and meditating on the way they work with one another is what makes this so calming.

    This is an impressive approach—the use of naturals to create a highly synthetic smelling scent that's largely autobiographical in nature. And that's why Skin Graft is such a successful achievement: for such a minimalist structure, what this scent underscores in the foresight of the perfumer and the stroke of brilliance that came from bringing these notes together in such a profound manner. For my money, this is both the simplest, and the best of the line.
    Last edited by deadidol; 6th November 2013 at 04:22 AM.

  17. #17
    Basenotes Junkie hoschhti's Avatar
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    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    REALOUD vs. REALOUD FERAL


    I like ROF more than RO. ROF is higher pitched and more airy and ethereal. I think it's because of the jasmine that is in ROF but not in RO. The opening is indeed very animalic, it settles down a bit after a while and gives you these beautiful musky notes. The quality of the materials is very good and people who like animalic perfumes like MUSCS KOUBLAI KHAN and serious OUD-lovers should give this a try!

    RO is more down-tuned, somewhat muddy and dull. It doesn't contain Jasmine, but I think that is exactly what it lacks. The opening is also very animalic, though a bit muted, not so hardcore! Somewhere in the middle RO turns into a Vetiver-monster, so dense that it's almost "claustrophobic"! Like I said I think it needs some Jasmine that would add more air and space. The quality of the ingredients is also very good.

    I really like REALOUD FERAL, REALOUD is not so much my cup of tea.
    FAVOURITES:

    1. Dia Man
    2. Tawaf
    3. Skin Graft
    4. Vitrum
    5. Norne
    6. Hindu Kush

  18. #18

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by hoschhti View Post
    I really like REALOUD FERAL, REALOUD is not so much my cup of tea.
    Yeah, I think the name's a bit of a misnomer here as feral infers something more vicious, and the opposite is true. Feral just feels more developed and full-bodied than the original, and the profile is different enough to warrant a different title (unless the structure really is more similar than it appears).

  19. #19
    Dependent james1051's Avatar
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    Default Re: In Re: Skunk smells

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Ha! I'm around skunk quite often, too (in fact, I can smell one lurking around nearby as I type this). Yeah, this is not going to be for everyone by any means, but keep in mind that it's blended in such a way that it turns into something else on the skin. Don't get me wrong, it's still kind of extreme, but it's not just skunk. (Although when you smell it from the bottle, you'd be inclined to think that it is!) Anyhow, I'll post my personal favorite, Skin Graft up next.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Skin Graft

    Screen Shot 2013-11-05 at 9.19.09 PM.jpg

    Honey, Iso-E, Jasmine Sambac, Opoponax, Cedar.

    While the description of Far NWest is what initially drew me to the line, it was Skin Graft that really got my attention. This is one of those cases in which a formalist analysis of the fragrance—simply focusing on what it does and how—is difficult as this is clearly an autobiographical endeavor, one whose narrative both colors and is colored by the fragrance itself. It's my personal favorite from the line as it smells totally avant-garde, yet its surprisingly comforting as well, which speaks to the story behind it (which I'm not going to recount here, but I'm sure many of you are aware of David's experience with Stephen Johnson Syndrome).

    It's quite a linear scent that kicks right into gear and stays there for most of the journey. Essentially, what it’s doing is integrating jasmine with opoponax in a manner that allows the grittiness of the opoponax to battle with the calming effect of jasmine, and it's all structured upon a base of honey that never really reads as an identifiable note unto itself, playing instead a largely foundational role. What's astounding about this seemingly simply pairing of opoponax and jasmine is that, when placed against the honey, it produces a plastic-y scent that's akin to the smell of BandAids (yes, really). The cedar notes lend a medicinal, almost disinfectant kind of tone to the mix; and despite the fact that the fragrance is 95% naturals, I do get hefty dose of Iso-E Super that brings an oil-like shimmer to the overall blend. Once the notes settle into place on your skin, what Skin Graft essentially boils down to is a honeyed jasmine over a bed of Iso-E. It's hard to do justice and describe what this scent does without actually wearing it as the listed notes don't seem like they'd be able to create the evocative effect they create without the use of a massive amount of rubbery synthetic molecules. Yet, when you focus in closely on how the scent is structured, you find that opoponax and jasmine really are the two central players, and meditating on the way they work with one another is what makes this so calming.

    This is an impressive approach—the use of naturals to create a highly synthetic smelling scent that's largely autobiographical in nature. And that's why Skin Graft is such a successful achievement: for such a minimalist structure, what this scent underscores in the foresight of the perfumer and the stroke of brilliance that came from bringing these notes together in such a profound manner. For my money, this is both the simplest, and the best of the line.
    Sounds great! Put this on my Must Try list. Now to find it...

  20. #20
    Basenotes Junkie hoschhti's Avatar
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    Default Re: In Re: Skunk smells

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post

    Skin Graft

    Screen Shot 2013-11-05 at 9.19.09 PM.jpg

    Honey, Iso-E, Jasmine Sambac, Opoponax, Cedar.

    While the description of Far NWest is what initially drew me to the line, it was Skin Graft that really got my attention. This is one of those cases in which a formalist analysis of the fragrance—simply focusing on what it does and how—is difficult as this is clearly an autobiographical endeavor, one whose narrative both colors and is colored by the fragrance itself. It's my personal favorite from the line as it smells totally avant-garde, yet its surprisingly comforting as well, which speaks to the story behind it (which I'm not going to recount here, but I'm sure many of you are aware of David's experience with Stephen Johnson Syndrome).

    It's quite a linear scent that kicks right into gear and stays there for most of the journey. Essentially, what it’s doing is integrating jasmine with opoponax in a manner that allows the grittiness of the opoponax to battle with the calming effect of jasmine, and it's all structured upon a base of honey that never really reads as an identifiable note unto itself, playing instead a largely foundational role. What's astounding about this seemingly simply pairing of opoponax and jasmine is that, when placed against the honey, it produces a plastic-y scent that's akin to the smell of BandAids (yes, really). The cedar notes lend a medicinal, almost disinfectant kind of tone to the mix; and despite the fact that the fragrance is 95% naturals, I do get hefty dose of Iso-E Super that brings an oil-like shimmer to the overall blend. Once the notes settle into place on your skin, what Skin Graft essentially boils down to is a honeyed jasmine over a bed of Iso-E. It's hard to do justice and describe what this scent does without actually wearing it as the listed notes don't seem like they'd be able to create the evocative effect they create without the use of a massive amount of rubbery synthetic molecules. Yet, when you focus in closely on how the scent is structured, you find that opoponax and jasmine really are the two central players, and meditating on the way they work with one another is what makes this so calming.

    This is an impressive approach—the use of naturals to create a highly synthetic smelling scent that's largely autobiographical in nature. And that's why Skin Graft is such a successful achievement: for such a minimalist structure, what this scent underscores in the foresight of the perfumer and the stroke of brilliance that came from bringing these notes together in such a profound manner. For my money, this is both the simplest, and the best of the line.
    SKIN GRAFT is also my favourite from the line. What I really like about SKIN GRAFT is that it's avant-garde without being pretentious! It's inoffensive and doesn't need to scream to be heard.

    Although I like the name I think it can be a trap: Some people might dismiss it, simply because they might think that the name is kinda disgusting. Others (like me) might expect a "shocking" medicinal monster and be disappointed when they try it. Indeed I was disappointed first and it took me several wearings to appreciate SKIN GRAFT's quiet but morbid beauty.

    Since then it made it in my Top 10!
    Last edited by hoschhti; 7th November 2013 at 04:59 PM.
    FAVOURITES:

    1. Dia Man
    2. Tawaf
    3. Skin Graft
    4. Vitrum
    5. Norne
    6. Hindu Kush

  21. #21

    Default Re: In Re: Skunk smells

    Quote Originally Posted by hoschhti View Post
    SKIN GRAFT is also my favourite from the line. What I really like about SKIN GRAFT is that it's avant-garde without being pretentious! It's inoffensive and doesn't need to scream to be heard.

    Although I like the name I think it can be a trap: Some people might dismiss it, simply because they might think that the name is kinda disgusting. Others (like me) might expect a "shocking" medicinal monster and be disappointed when they try it. Indeed I was disappointed first and it took me several wearings to appreciate SKIN GRAFT's quiet but morbid beauty.

    Since then it made it in my Top 10!
    I think what's brilliant about it is that the pairing of notes seems so unlikely, but produces such a profound, otherworldly scent. It's amazing!

    I'll post some thoughts on Reucher Fleuri later today, and that'll wrap up what's currently on offer from the line. When I first tried these at FRAGments, they stood out among many of the other brands on display -- and still do. So for me, it's kind of fun to put a spotlight on some of these indie brands who, for better or for worse (depending on where you stand), are providing great alternatives to more traditional approaches of perfumery.

  22. #22
    Dependent james1051's Avatar
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    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Anybody know where skin graft can be found online?

  23. #23

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Your best bet is probably to go straight to the source for right now. I think he may have some stockists in the Seattle area, but it's still a fairly small brand. From what I understand, there'll be some developments about distribution coming somewhat soon.

    Here's his website and shop: http://www.phoeniciaperfumes.com/collections/all

    [EDIT]: Apparently Skin Graft is also available here: http://www.indigoperfumery.com/
    Last edited by deadidol; 8th November 2013 at 12:42 AM.

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    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Your best bet is probably to go straight to the source for right now. I think he may have some stockists in the Seattle area, but it's still a fairly small brand. From what I understand, there'll be some developments about distribution coming somewhat soon.

    Here's his website and shop: http://www.phoeniciaperfumes.com/collections/all

    [EDIT]: Apparently Skin Graft is also available here: http://www.indigoperfumery.com/
    thanks!

  25. #25

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Realoud feral got the name because initially it smelled ten times fouler than Realoud. Just this summer after three year maceration it has softened and really deepened in the company of florals, santal and animalics. It is a limited run but I just got an email from the distiller I got the original batch from and he says his still is up and running again and he knows I like my oud dirty. So yes, Feral is oxymoronic due to maceration and maturation.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Hey, David's here!

    That makes sense about the feral name. What can you tell us about the opening notes of those two? The first 10 minutes are pretty rough, but then they settle down a lot. Are there top notes at work in these, or is just the nature of the oud itself?

  27. #27

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Hey, David's here!

    That makes sense about the feral name. What can you tell us about the opening notes of those two? The first 10 minutes are pretty rough, but then they settle down a lot. Are there top notes at work in these, or is just the nature of the oud itself?
    There is no scent pyramid, just classic middle eastern oils that are commonly blended with oud. The oud dominates the opening and blue cheese is a common descriptor. Arabs love this scent profile as do I.

  28. #28

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    572

    Default Re: In Re: Skunk smells

    Quote Originally Posted by james1051 View Post
    Bzzzt, Sorry! You lost me there. I don't need Hollywood to tell me what a skunk smells like--have experienced it first hand too many times to count (my dogs like to chase them). Skunk is a hideous! If you think MKK is a scrubber, you should try skunk! And it doesn't come off too easily. I grew up in the Northwest tramping around in the woods. Coniferous forest? Yeah that can appeal. Skunk? nope. Here are a couple of other scents you can encounter in or near NW forests that I do not recommend for perfume: Paper Mills. Volcanic mudpots. Bears. Forest Service outhouses.

    Razzing aside, I always read DI's reviews with interest and am happy to see the thread on a line I'd like to know more about. Look forward to sampling their non-skunk fragrances!
    I couldn't disagree more strongly. Skunk is one of those smells that is hugely variable depending on concentration. If you (or your pet) is sprayed directly, it's horribly concentrated and intense and it overwhelms your senses, but at a distance skunk is quite pleasant and, contrary to the OP, it does bear a resemblance to human body odors. It's also a big scent component of cannabis (note that the 2010 cannabis cup winner was named "God's Pussy," hence the connection between skunk/weed/body odors). It's an intriguing note and I've been wondering why it hasn't been used more in perfumery. I'm looking forward to sampling the entire line.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Phoenicia Perfumes: Discussion Thread

    I'm looking for a little more information on FarNW. Has anyone spent a fair amount of time with the newest juice. I'm extremely intrigued by the notes. However, I'm a little concerned about the skunk notes to be honest. Are they quite literal and straight forward? Or are they more reserved and blended into the coniferous notes?
    MadHat Scents

    Skiff (Ambergris, Tropical Fruit, Pacific Red Cedar, Floral Mukhallat) / Embers - ONLY 60ml Left (Un-burned Incense, Campfires, Leather and Resins) / Khus (Ruh Khus, Sandalwood, Rose, Geranium) / Oudhy (Dark Rose, Dried Woods, Oud, Musk)

  30. #30

    Default Phoenicia Perfumes FarNW & RealOud

    I'm looking for a little more information on FarNW and RealOud.

    Has anyone spent a fair amount of time with the newest FarNW juice? I'm love the note profile. However, I'm a little concerned about the skunk notes to be honest. Are they quite literal and straight forward or have they been used in a more reserved way and blended into the coniferous notes? Skunk from a distance is ok, skunk that just got run over by a car...not ok with me. That would be way too pungent and challenging for myself.

    Also, for anyone that's tried RealOud and or RealOud Feral...which is the least animalic between the two? I heard feral is the least challenging...however, that's not what I'm concerned about. I had the recent displeasure of trying Dior Leather Oud and although I found it to be a pretty good I just couldn't get past the civet. I CAN however, do castoreum in light amount.

    Thanks ahead of time!
    MadHat Scents

    Skiff (Ambergris, Tropical Fruit, Pacific Red Cedar, Floral Mukhallat) / Embers - ONLY 60ml Left (Un-burned Incense, Campfires, Leather and Resins) / Khus (Ruh Khus, Sandalwood, Rose, Geranium) / Oudhy (Dark Rose, Dried Woods, Oud, Musk)

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