Thread: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?
Would anyone be able to share a basic formula for a lily accord (or point me in the right direction) ?
Many thanks in advance.
Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon
I was actually looking for a lily (lys) rather than a lily of the valley (muguet) accord though.
A formula such as those from Givaudan which you linked would be perfect, but if such a thing isn't in the public domain it's no problem. My interest is purely academic at this point.
There are a lot of golden oldie accord posts here in Basenotes, but not much for Lily. So here's what I have found.
Headspace analysis seems not of great use. According to Bo Jensen, for 4 lilies, Cis-ocimene and linalool are the major terpenoids and the major compounds common to two or more varieties are: 1,8-cineole, benzaldehyde, methyl benzoate, ethyl benzoate, creosol and isoeugenol.
According to Joulain, Lilium Candidum headspace is mainly phenylethyl alcohol 24.5% and Linalool 15.5%.
Lily oil, according to Anonis (Flower Oils and Floral Compounds in Perfumery 1993), contains p-cresol, linalool, alpha-terpineol, & phenylethyl alcohol esterified with acetic, palmitic & cinnamic acids. According to Cerbelaud's classification, lily is in the tuberose/narcissus group. The perfumery base is principally linalyl cinnamate, lilac, jasmin & rose. Other chemicals are amyl benzoate, benzyl salycilate, dimethyl benzyl carbonate & its acetate, alpha ionone, isobutyl phenyl acetate, isobutyl salicylate, isoeugenol, p-cresyl phenyl acetate, phenyl propyl alcohol, & aldehyde, phenyl ethyl acetate, p-methyl acetophenone, beta-methyl napthyl ketone. Aldehydes c-10, c-11, c-12, & c-14 may be added in small amounts. For the top note, bergamot, lemon & orange oils are used. Among other naturals, cananga, petitgrain, ylang ylang, tolu balsam, styrax & bezoin resinoids may be mentioned. For more expensive lily compounds cassie, jasmin, narcissus, orange flower, rose and tuberose absolutes may be used. Trace components may include coriander, hay absolute, phenyl ethyl propionate and benzaldehyde.
Anonis lists a few accords but I think the most useful are:
Gerhardt, Das Komponieren in der Parfuemerie 1931, Lily Rose
415 Phenylethyl alcohol
85 Geranium African
René Cerbelaud 1920, Lily flower-
15 Linalyl cinnamate
10 Neroli synth
5 Phenylethyl alcohol
1 Linalyl acetate
1 Aldehyde C-10 10%
Lush/Gorilla's fabulous new Death & Decay is an indolic Lily, and the listed ingredients include-
Ylang, Rose, Jasmine abs (Grandiflorum), Tonka abs, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl cinnamate, Citral, Farnesol, Geraniol, Eugenol, Limonene, Linalool, Methyl Ionone, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl alcohol, Benzyl Salycilate, Lilial, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citronellol, Coumarin, Hydroxycitronellal.
I just got to smell some lilies a few weeks ago.. They're quite phenolic.. And this doesn't appear in the accords above.. So you might want to experiment with the cresols mentioned.
Poucher Madonna Lily 1062
50 Amyl cinnamic aldehyde
30 Phenyl propyl alcohol
10 tuberose abs
50 Phenylethyl salicylate
10 Neroli oil
20 Ylang ylang oil - manilla
90 Jasmin no. 1053 (can provide if you need it)
100 Bergamot oil
40 Para-cresyl phenylacetate
Last edited by mumsy; 15th September 2014 at 09:10 AM.
The para Cresyl Phenylacetate is very important.
Mumsy, thanks so much for the Poucher formula. Between the original posting in '13 and the recent bumping, I was actually lucky enough to find a set of his books going cheap. It's no doubt useful to have a record of the formula on here, too.
Nizan and David, thank you both for your comments, too.
I have just completed Poucher Madonna Lily 1062 and i agree with David. para Cresyl Phenylacetate is one of the key ingredients ( narcotic sweet phenolic note ) . I have skipped Phenylethyl salicylate, because i dont have it and replaced jasmin no 1053 with synthetic jasmine. I have added little amount of hedione ( 2% ) to round harsh notes ( linalool,terpineol... )
Last edited by Milhaus; 15th September 2014 at 10:24 AM.