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  1. #1

    Default Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    Would anyone be able to share a basic formula for a lily accord (or point me in the right direction) ?
    Many thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  3. #3

    Default Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    Thanks, Paul.
    I was actually looking for a lily (lys) rather than a lily of the valley (muguet) accord though.
    A formula such as those from Givaudan which you linked would be perfect, but if such a thing isn't in the public domain it's no problem. My interest is purely academic at this point.

  4. #4
    Basenotes Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012

    Default Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    There are a lot of golden oldie accord posts here in Basenotes, but not much for Lily. So here's what I have found.

    Headspace analysis seems not of great use. According to Bo Jensen, for 4 lilies, Cis-ocimene and linalool are the major terpenoids and the major compounds common to two or more varieties are: 1,8-cineole, benzaldehyde, methyl benzoate, ethyl benzoate, creosol and isoeugenol.
    According to Joulain, Lilium Candidum headspace is mainly phenylethyl alcohol 24.5% and Linalool 15.5%.

    Lily oil, according to Anonis (Flower Oils and Floral Compounds in Perfumery 1993), contains p-cresol, linalool, alpha-terpineol, & phenylethyl alcohol esterified with acetic, palmitic & cinnamic acids. According to Cerbelaud's classification, lily is in the tuberose/narcissus group. The perfumery base is principally linalyl cinnamate, lilac, jasmin & rose. Other chemicals are amyl benzoate, benzyl salycilate, dimethyl benzyl carbonate & its acetate, alpha ionone, isobutyl phenyl acetate, isobutyl salicylate, isoeugenol, p-cresyl phenyl acetate, phenyl propyl alcohol, & aldehyde, phenyl ethyl acetate, p-methyl acetophenone, beta-methyl napthyl ketone. Aldehydes c-10, c-11, c-12, & c-14 may be added in small amounts. For the top note, bergamot, lemon & orange oils are used. Among other naturals, cananga, petitgrain, ylang ylang, tolu balsam, styrax & bezoin resinoids may be mentioned. For more expensive lily compounds cassie, jasmin, narcissus, orange flower, rose and tuberose absolutes may be used. Trace components may include coriander, hay absolute, phenyl ethyl propionate and benzaldehyde.

    Anonis lists a few accords but I think the most useful are:
    Gerhardt, Das Komponieren in der Parfuemerie 1931, Lily Rose
    415 Phenylethyl alcohol
    210 Citronellol
    140 Hydroxycitronellal
    110 Phenylacetaldehyde
    85 Geranium African
    40 Isoeugenol

    René Cerbelaud 1920, Lily flower-
    20 Terpineol
    15 Linalyl cinnamate
    10 Linalool
    10 Neroli synth
    10 Geraniol
    10 Hydroycitronellal
    5 Phenylethyl alcohol
    5 Cananga
    5 Heliotropin
    1 Linalyl acetate
    1 Aldehyde C-10 10%
    13 Solvent

    Lush/Gorilla's fabulous new Death & Decay is an indolic Lily, and the listed ingredients include-
    Ylang, Rose, Jasmine abs (Grandiflorum), Tonka abs, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl cinnamate, Citral, Farnesol, Geraniol, Eugenol, Limonene, Linalool, Methyl Ionone, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl alcohol, Benzyl Salycilate, Lilial, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citronellol, Coumarin, Hydroxycitronellal.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    ^ Thank you very much for typing that all out, Nemenator. Much appreciated !

  6. #6

    Default Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    I just got to smell some lilies a few weeks ago.. They're quite phenolic.. And this doesn't appear in the accords above.. So you might want to experiment with the cresols mentioned.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    Poucher Madonna Lily 1062
    100 Terpineol
    150 Linalol
    250 Hydroxy-citronellal
    50 Amyl cinnamic aldehyde
    100 Citronellol
    30 Phenyl propyl alcohol
    10 tuberose abs
    50 Phenylethyl salicylate
    10 Neroli oil
    20 Ylang ylang oil - manilla
    90 Jasmin no. 1053 (can provide if you need it)
    100 Bergamot oil
    40 Para-cresyl phenylacetate
    Last edited by mumsy; 15th September 2014 at 09:10 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    The para Cresyl Phenylacetate is very important.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    Mumsy, thanks so much for the Poucher formula. Between the original posting in '13 and the recent bumping, I was actually lucky enough to find a set of his books going cheap. It's no doubt useful to have a record of the formula on here, too.
    Nizan and David, thank you both for your comments, too.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Formula for Lily (Lys) Accord ?

    I have just completed Poucher Madonna Lily 1062 and i agree with David. para Cresyl Phenylacetate is one of the key ingredients ( narcotic sweet phenolic note ) . I have skipped Phenylethyl salicylate, because i dont have it and replaced jasmin no 1053 with synthetic jasmine. I have added little amount of hedione ( 2% ) to round harsh notes ( linalool,terpineol... )
    Last edited by Milhaus; 15th September 2014 at 10:24 AM.

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