I know what you mean when you sad Coty's Chypre reminded you of mom or ladies of the era. It is because the Coty is the basic chypre accord alone, without much adornment. So it will immediately bring back the drydown of so many old perfumes, whether it is Chypre itself, of any other (for instance, I don't think my mom wore this, she wore some Dior chypres and others, but still, that's the base).
And you're right that labdanum is resinous. It is a usual component of whatever's called amber. It smells resinous, warm, ambery, slightly sweet and somewhat animalic. Frankincense would be much cleaner, more lemony, and drier.
There's been some talk about Mitsouko and the reformulation removing oakmoss. In a very recent thread, people said that the very latest (2013) version has got back most of its beauty. This is probably not the version in most stores.