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Thread: Learning Chypre

  1. #1

    Default Learning Chypre

    A while back, I asked out loud what chypre is and a very kind BNer responded by sending me samples of: Chypre de Coty, Mitsouko EdC, Mitouko extract (the two caused me to purchase the EdP), Azuree by Estee Lauder, and Diorella by Christian Dior. He also threw in a couple of rose samples, particularly Une Rose, which caused me to fall hopelessly in love.

    So let me here explore what I've learned about chypres and my reaction to these particular samples. Fragrantica says: Chypre is the name of the island Cyprus in French, where the goddess of beauty and love, Venus, was born. Wikipedia says:

    "Chypre, pronounced: [ʃipʁ] or [ʃipχ], is the name of a family (or concept) of perfumes that are characterised by an accord composed of citrus top-notes, a middle centered on cistus labdanum, and a mossy-animalic base-note derived from oak moss and musks.”

    Exploring each component first:

    CITRUS

    Bergamot has quickly, to me, become the reigning citrus -- fruity freshness without a bite. Verifying, I reach for my new Perfumery Notes Kit to compare Bergamot to its kin.

    Methyl Pamplemousse (grapefruit) -- get thee away from my nose unless sprinkled with sugar on a breakfast tray! The aldehyde does cut the sharpness but it's still grapefruit. Not once, while eating it for breakfast have I thought: now if I could only smell like that.

    Marndarine Aldehyde -- according to the kit, it's responsible for creating a new category of perfumes, the eaux fraîches which replaced traditional eaux de Cologne. I approach it with respect. Well, yes. It smells less like breakfast. I can see it mixing with floral orientals. It in no way unseats Bergamot, though.

    Aldehyde C-12 — the kit says it’s the most widely used aldehyde in classic perfumery and gives a "fresh, amber, citrus lift,” so I guess I should smell it. Here goes…whew! Okay, I can see this would be useful in combination, if done by expert hands, but on its own, it smells like a public urinal in which somebody sprayed a citrus air freshener! At times is it better not to know what’s in the perfumes we adore?

    CISTUS LABDANUM

    It isn't there! Naughty kit not to contain a key component of such an important accord. Shucks. It’s in Perfumery Kit #2. Wikipedia: "Labdanum, also called ladanum or ladan, is a sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladanifer (western Mediterranean) and Cistus creticus (eastern Mediterranean), species of rockrose.” Double shucks. For now I’ll have to imagine what the brown resin obtained from this shrub smells like. I wonder if it’s like Frankincense, another resin? Ah! I’ll try to unmask it during my sniffs.

    OAK MOSS AND MUSKS

    I vaguely know what both smell like. There’s no Oak Moss in the kit, but I detected it in Coumarin, “an accord of oak moss, geranium and bergamot." I'll sniff the musks. No need to return to civet (diluted cat urine).
    Galaxolide is used in combo with other musks: smooth, almost sweet, non-nauseating, love it--sophisticated, sweet musk I’ve smelled in perfumes I really really like. Surely it’s in Creed’s Imperatrice Eugenie, in 24 Faubourg, in Francisco Rodriquez for her, in Boucheron. Is this the note that gives each its sultriness?
    Musk Ketone is an important component in the original Chanel No.5, the kit says. I’ll have to take their word for it because I can barely smell it. They say it’s one of the last of the nitro musks. It’s light, not offensive, has a vaguely fruity darkness about it. The kit advises me to combine it with Jasmine Glandilorum and Bergamot, which I’ll try. Hmmm, first I’ll try combining Glandiforum and Bergamot with Galaxolide!

    CHYPRE

    In sum, chypre is apparently a citrusy, resinous, musky sort of note. Now to the perfumes.

    CHYPRE BY COTY

    So cool, so grownup. Did my mother wear this? Don’t think old lady when I say that. My mom was a grand gal, so gorgeous that when I brought my high school prom date over to meet the family and my mom came downstairs, his mouth gaped open, his brain froze, and before he could catch himself he croaked out, “Who is that?” I elbowed him and whispered, “Sshh! That’s my Mom.” I was so proud of her, so glad to have femininity in perfection as my own mother. She always smelled great. I know she wore lavender. I think she also wore this. I detect the citrus, which must be Bergamot. Mandarin? The musk is there. Maybe even civet. And there’s a tangy, resinous element. Maybe cistus labdanum. And flowers, Jasmine included. I remember this perfume. I’ve smelled it on ladies furs piled on my bed as their owners sipped tea (or something) in the living room--long ago, before furs were a bad thing. To me, Coty Chypre feels like a warm embrace. Let me look up its notes: Civet! I was right. Bergamot. Oakmoss, Incense, too. Lots of flowers; Jasmine, rose, lilac, carnation, yang ylang, Iris? And Styrax? What is that??? Oh, it’s where benzoin resin comes from. Smells like vanilla. In youth, I never tried to emulate my mom, principally because my head was always in a book. Only now, later in life, do I treasure her passion for gossamer scarves and unforgettable perfumes. To be in the presence of the grand gal who raised me, I must only wear this.

    MITSOUKO

    Like I said elsewhere, I sprayed the EdC on my left arm and the extrait on the right and spent the day with my nose in my arms. For some reason, the EdC lasted longer than the extract, which seems impossible. Trying it again.
    EdC: a blast of citrus (lemony orange?), then the oak moss, then something animalic, maybe civet again, then the resin. I think I’m getting the tang of cistus labdanum. There’s a peppery note. I can’t make out what the florals are. Trying harder: okay, rose. There are woods in there. Giving up because my nose is telling my brain to stop asking questions and just smell. Later, to be responsible, the notes are: Bergamot, Jasmine, Rose, Oakmoss, Tonka Bean. Sigh. None of the latter in the kit.
    Extrait: I really do like the EdC more. It has more volume. However, the dry down here is lovely, lovely!
    EdP: Having been hopelessly seduced by the two above, I bought this. Wow, it has the projection of the EdC, but the warmth of the extrait. Makes sense. Wait. Can this new one be a less elegant version? It has a sharp element I don’t detect in the others … something synthetic? Oh no. Now I must find out if my friend’s samples are vintage Mitsouko and, if so, I'll have to get some, because I don’t like the new one as much. Something sharp and unnatural makes me want to sneeze! Waiting to see if the dry down is better…it is! The sharpness reduces, but something acrid remains. Neither the extract or the EdP have notes that could be called acrid.

    DIORELLA

    A different lady enters on a cloud of citrus. I smell tangerine, possibly grapefruit too (no, it’s lime, bergamot, melon and basil), and another fruit (peach, I started to guess that). She trails oak moss (yep) and there’s that tangy resin I’m beginning to recognize as cistus labdanum or the like (vetiver, musk). There’s a wood, perhaps sandalwood (no patchouli). I’m not sure the floral is Jasmine (it’s there), certainly not the Grandiflora, maybe Sambac. Is that carnation (yep, good guess). Interesting perfume that improves in the dry down, but unlike Mitsouko, I don’t need to own it.

    AZUREE

    Citrus immediately, but not as strong as with Diorella. Something green: vetiver, moss. Muskiness from who-knows -what, but I smell leather, too. Now I absolutely know what a chypre is. Citrus, moss, animalic musks and a resinous tang. Chypre is sheer earthiness in a perfume bottle.

    Many thanks for this experience to my first BN friend.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 2nd November 2013 at 04:32 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Great description!

    I know what you mean when you sad Coty's Chypre reminded you of mom or ladies of the era. It is because the Coty is the basic chypre accord alone, without much adornment. So it will immediately bring back the drydown of so many old perfumes, whether it is Chypre itself, of any other (for instance, I don't think my mom wore this, she wore some Dior chypres and others, but still, that's the base).

    And you're right that labdanum is resinous. It is a usual component of whatever's called amber. It smells resinous, warm, ambery, slightly sweet and somewhat animalic. Frankincense would be much cleaner, more lemony, and drier.

    There's been some talk about Mitsouko and the reformulation removing oakmoss. In a very recent thread, people said that the very latest (2013) version has got back most of its beauty. This is probably not the version in most stores.

    cacio

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    I'll reply in detail later - on the road now. But don't forget the Diaghilev! that is the ultimate chypre on the market today, IMO.
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    I'll reply in detail later - on the road now. But don't forget the Diaghilev! that is the ultimate chypre on the market today, IMO.
    Beat me to it. Looking forward to the detail.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Thanks for the extensive and accurate description of such a wonderful fragrance categories (admitting subjectively that this category is, incidentally also one of my favorites). Another great underrated chypre is, in my opinion, Le Dix by Balenciaga. Almost suitable for unisex wear, a rich, dark yet not overly sweet and, paradoxically, not overly flowery-smelling flower, with quite strong yet smooth citrus, leather and some exotic woods lurking in the background.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    To the OP - I'd say you learned a hell of a lot, and I learned along with you by reading your informative post. It sounds like everyone has their favorite Chypre. Mine happens to be Aigues Vives.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals don't warrant or deserve other individuals' acknowledgement or respect.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    I haven't had chance to read all of this yet, but I will ASAP. What a great post and fantastic way to learn about a genre!

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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Good stuff here Scentfan! Thanks for sharing your findings. I'm just beginning to fall in love with Chypre's myself. I'll admit that I'm somewhat tentative as I have a tendency to go sour with Mitsouko at least. But I really do like it very much. It does feel like another era. It reminds me of Sunday's at church as a girl. I'm certain some of the ladies must have worn this (and Chanel # 5 of course).

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Hi SF - I tried to PM you but the system won't let me.


    Did you get the samples of Diaghilev and Mitsouko Parfum de Toilette? I think I sent them with the minis, didn't I? Those 2 are the most amazing chypres I own, I think.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    Hi SF - I tried to PM you but the system won't let me.


    Did you get the samples of Diaghilev and Mitsouko Parfum de Toilette? I think I sent them with the minis, didn't I? Those 2 are the most amazing chypres I own, I think.
    Was that in a second mailing, Rubegon, or the first? Come to think of it, I haven't receiving anything from BNers that's in the mail. I don't recall a Diaghilev. If you think it's better than Mitsouko, I want it! If you're sure you sent it, I'll find it. If not, I'll locate a sample online.

    Thanks, Ken and hednic, for the other suggestions. Will look them up! Appreciate the info, cacio. Danieq, I may have a bias against Chanel No. 5. I didn't want to wear it because everyone else was. Need to reinvestigate.

    Back with more soon.

    - - - Updated - - -

    French pronunciation of Chypre: She-prah (emphasis on first syllable, long e, roll the r, exhale the h).

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    It was in the 2nd package. Did you get the Van Cleef & Aprels First and Chanel No 5 EdC minis I sent you a couple of weeks ago? I added the Diaghilev and Mitsouko PdT samples to that package.
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  12. #12

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    It was in the 2nd package. Did you get the Van Cleef & Aprels First and Chanel No 5 EdC minis I sent you a couple of weeks ago? I added the Diaghilev and Mitsouko PdT samples to that package.
    Ah! They're at the post office! Will get them in the morning and report. Thanks, Rubegon. Hope you're enjoying the vintage Lagerfeld.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Whew! I'm glad they didn't go missing. Those 2 samples are from my most prized treasures! They're really something special.

    The Lagerfeld is great! They don't make designer masculines like this any more - the way I like them. Thanks for the mini. I'll be on the lookout for a bargain vintage bottle now!

    - - - Updated - - -

    OK - finally got some time to read at leisure. Great report, ScentFan! It's always hard to find time to go deep with perfumes, but so rewarding! "Sheer earthiness" is a good way of putting it. Look for that characteristic in the 2 samples you have waiting. It's not so sheer in the Diaghilev or the Mitsouko PdT.

    Mitsouko Parfum de Toilette was first released in the 80s - prior to that, all of the Guerlain feminines came in EdC, EdT, and parfum only. The trend for bolder, louder perfumes in the 80s motivated the formulation of powerhouse versions of all the hitherto relatively ladylike and demur versions of the classics offered up to then. These perfumes had the depth and density of the perfumes, but the explosive projection and sillage of the EdCs. Mitsouko PdT has full oakmoss, as is the most radiant, extroverted version of this sophisticated beauty ever produced. Very hard to find. I treasure every drop of it I have, even more than the parfum.

    Diaghilev parfum is $1000 a bottle, and worth every penny. The gulf that sets it apart from any other chypre on the market today is so vast it is in its own universe.

    Well, that's how I feel anyway. Maybe I tend towards hyperbole.
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  14. #14

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    I bought my Mitsouko on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C1UFM0/..._M3T1_ST1_dp_1, encouraged by the discussions of validity. Did I goof? Will figure out a way to get some in a vial and mail it to you.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Not at all - I would certainly trust Amazon. I was just asking because I wanted to know which vendor is stocking such recent stock. Your bottle is just a few months old. Many online vendors have bottles that are a few years old.
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Wow, Scentfan! Your report is excellent, and your description of smelling Coty's Chypre reminds me of how I felt upon first smelling it. Either Coty's Chypre or another house's chypre was what the ladies wore when I was growing up.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    This is just what I need since chypre is one of the genre I most uncertain about

  18. #18

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by jasonx View Post
    This is just what I need since chypre is one of the genre I most uncertain about
    Me too! At times I feel like I'm not understanding the appeal, then I'll wear one and feel like I'm almost "getting it." I wonder how much of it has to do with appreciating traditional / French perfumery?

    [EDIT]: Still have yet to read all of the original post (my work schedule wants me dead right now), but I should add here that I've been kind of digging on Le Labo / Anthropologie's Belle du Soir quite a bit over the last week or so, and that's a full-on chypre (and a cheapy!)
    Last edited by deadidol; 4th November 2013 at 12:22 AM.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    With new samples in hand, let me continue (many thanks, Rubegon, for the Diaghilev extrait by Roja Dove, etc.). Looking it up, it seems to have every citrus: bergamot, orange, lime, lemon. It has spice: cumin, tarragon, cloves, nutmeg. There are florals: jasmine, rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, violet. In addition, there's oakmoss, multiple woods, multiple musks and resins as well as fruits (peach, black currant). I have no idea what to expect from Diaghilev. If it isn't a symphony orchestrated by a master then it must be a collision. Technically its a chypre (citrus, resin, oakmoss and musk), but Fragrantica classifies it as a Woody Aromatic. I haven't smelled it yet. I'm just savoring the anticipation. After all, you've so far hooked me on two perfumes: Mitsouko and Une Rose. After I got Diaghilev from the post office, I took my time getting to my desk. Cleared of its normal contents, it's now a-glitter with samples and miniatures and black-capped glass bottles of "the most popular ingredients used in perfumery, pre-diluted and ready to sniff." Instead of sniffing I'm just looking, smiling, listening to Belle Nuit from Offenbach's The Tales of Hoffman: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wchhdbc-9cA -- sublime musical accompaniment to being in the presence of heavenly scents, to say nothing of actually wearing them. It's only been weeks, but I see I may regularly fall in love with some great perfume artists' latest (or oldest) concoction.

    I trotted over to Frangrantica's Perfume library and discovered a list of chypres, subclassified as floral or fruity. Perfumed court lists 10 types: http://theperfumedcourt.com/Products...GINCHYPRE.aspx

    So my expanded list contains these chypres:

    Bottega Veneta (leathery floral)
    Coty Chypre (traditional) -- see OP
    Diaghilev ?
    Le Smoking by DHS (traditional?)
    Mitsouko by Guerlain (fruity) -- see OP
    Narcisso Rodriguez for her (floral)
    Sous le Vent by Guerlain (aromatic)

    Here goes:

    BOTTEGA VENETA (FLORAL) - I bought a sample for my Jasmine Sniff-Fest. Yep, I detect the required citrus, resin, oakmoss and musk. I'm betting the citrus is bergamot maybe, and the musk isn't civet, maybe ambergris. The Jasmine's probably Sambac. Let's see: Yes, there's bergamot and oakmoss, Jasmine Sambac. Not a musk but patchouli and a leather accord. To me this is a pleasant, if not compelling fragrance. They want you to think of rolling green hills in the Italian countryside. Having spent time there, I suppose I do, but I was never olfactorally arrested and neither am I now. It's the kind of scent that will remain among my samples but be ignored until I run out of the good stuff like the Coty or Mitsouko.

    DIAGHILEV (WOODY AROMATIC) - (drum roll). Well, this certainly isn't going to be ignored. It has a very pleasant citrus top note then the oak-mossy musk floods in. There's wood. There's spice. Something green. Vetiver? All nearly overwhelming the florals there. I barely detect a rose. Was this named after the guy who founded the Ballets Russes? If so, it succeeds because this is a powerful, theatric scent -- a symphony, not a collision. Smelling it on a man passing by would make me wonder who he was. For myself, I want something as dramatic, but feminine. This is for guys, or Marlene Dietrich.

    LE SMOKING - Wow, I find this terrific. It's what I imagine elegant men's rooms used to be. A place to go to smoke a cigar, down a whiskey, get one's shoes shined, swap yarns with Hemingway while waiting for the night train to Paris. If a man passed by wearing this, I'd wonder what century we're in. The ingredients? Tobacco, leather, alcohol, I'd say. It has the usual chypre suspects plus Bulgarian rose (smelling that again in the kit, it's rich, sophisticated, deep) and there are other florals like Jasmine Grandiflorum, etc. It has sage, a tobacco absolute, leather accords, and Galbanum. I think there's a bottle in the kit ... hmmm, smells almost like new-mown hay, booklet calls it a classic green/wood.

    NARCISSO RODRIGUEZ FOR HER (FLORAL) - [Here stop playing Tales of Hoffman and put on Carmen http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyZRM7fWBEY]. Surprised to learn it's a chypre. I smelled it while visiting a girlfriend in Chicago. She passed by after dressing for the evening and, shocked, I asked, "What is that perfume?!" She told me, I wrote it down, flew home and promptly bought it. That wannabe by S-Perfume called S-ex can only hope to smell like this. When I learned Michelle Obama wears or wore it, I knew why people think "marital relations" occur in the first family's living quarters. This fragrance is olfactory nitro-glycerin. It leaps from the bottle and clings to the skin, baldly winking at an S.O. across the room and promising no sleep in bed tonight. The only reason it isn't illegal is that this perfume somehow manages to be dignified, while inviting the slow disrobing of the wearer by the on-looker's, or rather on-sniffer's, eyes. I don it only around my "once and future." If I wore it around other men, somebody might end up in jail (and it might not be him). There is no top note, no middle. The fragrance sweeps into your nostrils and never quits its seduction. Openly it declares, "don't just stand there, embrace me!" The guy who made this should be knighted. Oh, right. We don't have those in the USA. He should get a Presidential honor and I bet Obama wants to give him one, too. Looking it up: Rose at the top, musk at the center with a little orange, amber, osmanthus (oh, gee, what does that smell like?), patchouli and sandalwood at the base. Fragrantica says the initial aggression disappears and the fragrance becomes tame and gentle. Hah! I agree, if you call bald lust tame. I adore this scent! It's a mutiny against society's demand that we all go around pretending we don't have genitals.

    One more, then I'll go quietly.

    SOUS LE VENT (AROMATIC) - Can Guerlain go far wrong? This is a very green chypre as indirectly implied by its outdoorsy name which means beneath the wind. To me it says independent young woman -- a college girl on the tennis team, a career girl who goes mountain climbing on the weekend. What's in it? Top: lavender, tarragon, bergamot. Mid: green, jasmine, carnation. Base: iris and woods. Guerlain designed it for Josephine Baker in the 1930s.

    CONCLUSION

    There must be a kind of magic in the combo of citrus, resin, oakmoss and musk. I notice Abano by Prince Matchabelli is a chypre and I think I used to wear that, too (or my mother did). It could be I'll one day say I've never met a Chypre I didn't like. So far I either can tolerate, like or love those I've sniffed. None of them do I hate.

    Glad I discovered Chypre. It's a great accord.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonx View Post
    This is just what I need since chypre is one of the genre I most uncertain about
    I didn't have a clue what it was until I took it on as a project. Now I can't live without Mitsouko and the Coty Chypre. Already couldn't live without Narcisso Rodriguez for her.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 4th November 2013 at 03:21 PM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Great descriptions! Narcisso Rodriguez as a chypre comes as a surprise to me too, although with the demise of oakmoss, woods and patchouli pretend to be chypre (not that the perfume isn't good in itself, of course). Similarly, the amount of oakmoss in Bottega Veneta must be infinitesimal.

    cacio

  21. #21

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Great descriptions! Narcisso Rodriguez as a chypre comes as a surprise to me too, although with the demise of oakmoss, woods and patchouli pretend to be chypre (not that the perfume isn't good in itself, of course). Similarly, the amount of oakmoss in Bottega Veneta must be infinitesimal.

    cacio
    Oakmoss is banned too? Good grief!

  22. #22

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Yes, it's severely restricted. The reason that it's on the list of ingredients is that it must be declared even in small amounts.

    Some perfumers have tried to replicate the feel (not the smell) of old style chypres via other means, typically some combination of patchouli-vetiver-woods. These are sometimes referred to as new chypres (an example is Estee Lauder private collection jasmine white moss). They can be good on their own, but it's not the old accord.

    This year, the Guerlain perfumer used oakmoss from which the IFRA offending ingredient had been extracted. I have not smelled it, but a recent thread suggested the result is close to the vintage.

    cacio

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Great writing yet again, ScentFan. I'll second hednic, that I'm learning along with you and went and resniffed my chypres. Agree, too, with cacio, that Chypre de Coty is the archetype. Of all chypres, I find it the most "raw" in a good way, like the works of the Fauve painters. Love Sous le Vent myself, which was supposedly worn by Josephine Baker and is actually named for the Leeward Islands.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  24. #24

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    ScentFan decided since I have a couple of different iterations of Mitsuoko (vintage Parfum and Modern EdP) I would come along for the ride. Might also get the Bottega out later and will try the Narciso Rodriguez (I feel another perfume will be shortly be added to my collection).

    I’m unsure if the method of application makes a great deal of difference but the notes and progression of two on initial spray and then initial dab are quite different. The EdT is much sparklier and that slight ‘sour’ or tang as you describe is more tenacious. That sharpness in the EdT seems to hang on for a while before the delicious dry down seduces me back. With the Parfum I get the mossiness very shortly after that lends a smoothness that underpins some of the floral components. This version I find divine and must track down more as I’m on my last 7.5ml bottle of Parfum. Something in the mossiness of Mitsuoko reminds me of the mossy down of my vintage Rochas Femme parfum (Chyre Fruity). Though of the two I find Mitsuoko easier to wear and not one who likes too much projection I enjoy the ‘roundness’ of the Parfum the most of all.

    Great work, really enjoying your fragrance journey. Just waiting for the jasmine one to start.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    Great writing yet again, ScentFan. I'll second hednic, that I'm learning along with you and went and resniffed my chypres. Agree, too, with cacio, that Chypre de Coty is the archetype. Of all chypres, I find it the most "raw" in a good way, like the works of the Fauve painters. Love Sous le Vent myself, which was supposedly worn by Josephine Baker and is actually named for the Leeward Islands.
    Thanks. Ah! Yes, the Leeward islands. Guerlain formulated it for Josephine Baker. Though she was American, not from the islands, the French associated her with them.

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    [EDIT]: Still have yet to read all of the original post (my work schedule wants me dead right now), but I should add here that I've been kind of digging on Le Labo / Anthropologie's Belle du Soir quite a bit over the last week or so, and that's a full-on chypre (and a cheapy!)
    I like the other Le Labo's so I'll have to try this.

    Quote Originally Posted by Xscent View Post
    ScentFan decided since I have a couple of different iterations of Mitsuoko (vintage Parfum and Modern EdP) I would come along for the ride. ....

    Great work, really enjoying your fragrance journey. Just waiting for the jasmine one to start.
    Great, Xscent. The start of my Jasmine thread, A Jasmine Sniff-Fest, is parked in the Huddler archive. Will continue soon. http://www.basenotes.net/huddlerarchive/382624

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    Whew! I'm glad they didn't go missing. Those 2 samples are from my most prized treasures! They're really something special.

    The Lagerfeld is great! They don't make designer masculines like this any more - the way I like them. Thanks for the mini. I'll be on the lookout for a bargain vintage bottle now!

    Terrific!

    - - - Updated - - -

    OK - finally got some time to read at leisure. Great report, ScentFan! It's always hard to find time to go deep with perfumes, but so rewarding! "Sheer earthiness" is a good way of putting it. Look for that characteristic in the 2 samples you have waiting. It's not so sheer in the Diaghilev or the Mitsouko PdT.

    Mitsouko Parfum de Toilette was first released in the 80s - prior to that, all of the Guerlain feminines came in EdC, EdT, and parfum only. The trend for bolder, louder perfumes in the 80s motivated the formulation of powerhouse versions of all the hitherto relatively ladylike and demur versions of the classics offered up to then. These perfumes had the depth and density of the perfumes, but the explosive projection and sillage of the EdCs. Mitsouko PdT has full oakmoss, as is the most radiant, extroverted version of this sophisticated beauty ever produced. Very hard to find. I treasure every drop of it I have, even more than the parfum.

    Diaghilev parfum is $1000 a bottle, and worth every penny. The gulf that sets it apart from any other chypre on the market today is so vast it is in its own universe.

    Well, that's how I feel anyway. Maybe I tend towards hyperbole.
    Luckily, though I adore the Diaghilev, it's too male for me or my pocketbook would be in trouble! For some reason, I love the EdC most. I have the PdT on my left arm now and the EdC on my right and it's really the EdC that makes me swoon. I think I smell too much civet in the PdT, though, heck, I find all the Mitsoukos lovely. Even the new EdP, which I don't love, love is good. By the way, where do you buy your sample bottles and such? I need to get a sample of my EdP to you.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 16th November 2013 at 06:06 PM.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Luckily, though I adore the Diaghileve, it's too male for me or my pocketbook would be in trouble! For some reason, I love the EdC most. I have the PdT on my left arm now and the EdC on my right and it's really the EdC that makes me swoon. I think I smell too much civet in the PdT, though, heck, I find all the Mitsoukos lovely. Even the new EdP, which I don't love, love is good. By the way, where do you buy your sample bottles and such? I need to get a sample of my EdP to you.
    Well that's good! The EdC is the easiest to find, and the least expensive when it does turn up. Just look for the flat, round flacon montre (watch bottle) on ebay. Vintage EdT is also very nice too. Look for sealed splash bottles or older style boxes - white/black zigzag or gold with a black panel.

    Searching for "mitsouko (edc,cologne)" should do it. Just don't buy it if the bottle isn't sealed and comes in a box. If you buy a boxless one, it will almost certainly be spoiled. They won't survive for years if exposed to light. Also, there are usually buy-it-now auctions for crazy unrealistic prices. Don't fall for those. Wait for an auction and you can get one for about half of their prices or less.

    Decanting supplies are available a few places:

    www.accessoriesforfragrances.com is a good one, though their prices tend to be a bit high.

    I've also ordered from:

    http://madinaonline.com/items.asp?Cc...atus=0&Tp=&Bc= (good larger atomizers and they have the tiny keychain ones, but you have to buy a gross - 144)
    http://www.bestbottles.com/all_bottl...t_sprayers.php ($50 min order, but good prices on nice small atomizers)
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  27. #27

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Thanks, Rubegon. Just ordered in supplies and this unopened bottle of Mitsouko EdC from the 50s, I think. Une Rose arrives Thursday. Plan to sniff myself unconscious.

    il_570xN.515230697_d4c9.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    p.s. Just tried the Mitsuoko EdP before psychologically abandoning it. I spritzed it on the back of my hand a couple hours ago and again detected what to me is something acrid in the drydown. That sealed the breakup. I went to wash it off with soap and water. It's still there! Talk about longevity. Why won't it leave? Is it haunting me?

  28. #28

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    To the OP - I'd say you learned a hell of a lot, and I learned along with you by reading your informative post. It sounds like everyone has their favorite Chypre. Mine happens to be Aigues Vives.
    Galimard is a house that fly's mostly under the radar. They make very good scents at excellent price points. Aigues Vives to me is a more refined Eau Sauvage. A great pick.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Thanks, Rubegon. Just ordered in supplies and this unopened bottle of Mitsouko EdC from the 50s, I think. Une Rose arrives Thursday. Plan to sniff myself unconscious.

    il_570xN.515230697_d4c9.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -
    Wow! Congratulations! That's a beautiful bottle. I think the white box EdCs were from late 50s through early- to mid- 60s, but not positive. This is a fantastic vintage, it's sealed, with minimal evaporation, and the juice looks perfect. I think you'll be very happy with it! I would decant into a small atomizer and then store the flacon in its box in a cool dark place.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  30. #30

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Another one I would recommend looking out for is Acqua di Parma Profumo. Mine is from a few years back and I imagine more recent versions may well have suffered due to IFRA, but it is superb. To me it's slightly more winey take on the chypre accord, I guess a dark rose instead of Mitsouko's peach, but treat that as a blunt comparison - it's sublime.

    And if you come across it Cosmic (Solange) is a cool sloppy chypre in a good mood - the basic accord is intact and absolutely wonderful, but it's having a late 60's night listening to the Woodstock triple album soundtrack (on vinyl, natch).

    And Jubilation 25 is also better than a poke in the eye with a blunt stick.

    Mitsouko PDT is still pretty much my favourite . . .

  31. #31

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    Wow! Congratulations! That's a beautiful bottle. I think the white box EdCs were from late 50s through early- to mid- 60s, but not positive. This is a fantastic vintage, it's sealed, with minimal evaporation, and the juice looks perfect. I think you'll be very happy with it! I would decant into a small atomizer and then store the flacon in its box in a cool dark place.
    Whew! Glad to know that, Rubegon, many thanks! I was a little worried because I was expecting zig zags on the box. It's the same gorgeous smell as in the sample you sent, but it doesn't last quite as long. Wonder if it's more scent volume from a spray and less from a dab?

  32. #32
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Whew! Glad to know that, Rubegon, many thanks! I was a little worried because I was expecting zig zags on the box. It's the same gorgeous smell as in the sample you sent, but it doesn't last quite as long. Wonder if it's more scent volume from a spray and less from a dab?
    Yes, I think the white boxes were just before the zigzag ones, but only in the US maybe. Before that they used the coffee bean and then before than the blue boxes.

    If you're dabbing on, you won't get the sillage you get from spraying. This may make it seem to not last as long. I would definitely recommend decanting into a good quality vaporizer.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Another one I would recommend looking out for is Acqua di Parma Profumo. Mine is from a few years back and I imagine more recent versions may well have suffered due to IFRA, but it is superb. To me it's slightly more winey take on the chypre accord, I guess a dark rose instead of Mitsouko's peach, but treat that as a blunt comparison - it's sublime.

    And if you come across it Cosmic (Solange) is a cool sloppy chypre in a good mood - the basic accord is intact and absolutely wonderful, but it's having a late 60's night listening to the Woodstock triple album soundtrack (on vinyl, natch).

    And Jubilation 25 is also better than a poke in the eye with a blunt stick.

    Mitsouko PDT is still pretty much my favourite . . .
    I agree with all of this, except that I don't know the Solange. J25 is muuuuuch better than a poke in the eye, by the way!

    J25 and Profumo are both excellent rose chypres, with J25 having a big whack of civet that livens things up from the opening.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  33. #33

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Modern chypres are post-oakmoss restrictions, typically instead of oakmoss one has some combination of patchouli, vetiver, and possibly some woods to replicate the chypre feel (hence the links to Angel, which is big on woods and patchouli). Among the most talked about new chypres are also things like Estee Lauder Jasmine white moss and Chanel 31 rue Cambon. But also Ormonde Jayne Tiare (which probably does have some oakmoss). But now you hear the word chypre for fragrances that have very little of it as well - referring to a generic impression rather than to a specific accord (for instance, I think I remember hearing a perfumer talking about her creation of Armani Si' as "chypre'" - I have not smelled it yet).

    To my nose, new chypres smell cleaner, somewhat scrubbed, relative to the old ones.

    cacio
    Cacio, I hope you don't mind my porting your comment over here for reply. And thanks, mr. Reasonable and others for the new suggestions, included below. I spent a happy hour or so on the Frangrantica Chypre Floral list and found myself adding all that appealed. Any comments before I go into acquisition mode, not expecting to find or get them all (but wouldn't it be thrilling?) Do you have any suggested skips or must-sniffs?

    I'm thinking I could make a Chypre pass from this.

    08 Une Rose Chypre
    34 Boulevard St. Germain, Diptique
    Acqua di Parma Profumo (vintage)
    Abano, Prince Matchabelli (vintage)
    Aigues Vives
    Ange ou Demon Le Secret Elixir
    Anthropologie's Belle du Soir, Le Labo
    Armani Si'
    Aoud Shiny, Montale
    Azalee
    Balenciaga Paris
    Bandit, Robert Piguet
    Bianco, Bruno Acampora
    Black Tie, Cassini
    Chance Eau Fraiche, Chanel
    Chance, Chanel
    Chypre Rouge, Serge Lutens
    Coco Mademoiselle
    Cosmic
    Daim Blond
    Diamella, Yves Rocher
    Eclat de Jasmin, Giorgio Armani
    Eau Sauvage
    Estee Lauder White Moss
    Eau de Metal, Pace Rabanne (since I still have some)
    Enlevement au Serail
    Fate Woman, Amouage
    Flora by Gucci 1966
    Johana Keiko Mecheri
    Jubilation 25
    Lady Caron
    Lafeorosa, O'Driu
    Le Parfum de Therese, Malle
    M. Micallef
    Neroli, Roja Dove
    Nino Ceruti Pour Femme
    Ormonde Jayne Tiare
    Parfum de Grasse, DHS
    Place Rouge, Guerlain
    Promesse de l'Aube
    Rochas Femme (vintage)
    Rosae Mundi, Profumum Roma
    Sublime, Jean Patou
    Umbe Keiko Mecheria
    Une Histoire de Chypre, Molinard
    Valentina Assoluto
    Very Irresistible Givenchy L'Intense
    White Patchouli, Tom Ford

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    ... I would decant into a small atomizer and then store the flacon in its box in a cool dark place.
    Oh! Okay, off to buy small atomizers. Thanks.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 12th November 2013 at 09:34 PM.

  34. #34
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    What a lovely list Scentfan! Chypre is one I'm still seeking to understand so your list could prove helpful indeed.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    I don't have it in front of me but I seem to recall Luca Turin making the analogy of the three core chypre ingredients, (bergamot, labdanum and oakmoss) constituting the three dimensions of a room which then allow you re-arrange the furniture inside more or less at will.

    This makes sense to me.

    Hence Mitsouko has some peach, AdP Profumo wine-rose, some have leather and some are more bitter-green (galbanum, vetiver, patchouli) and so on.

    The key thing for a chypre to 'feel right' for me is simple, it's the sense of expansiveness, of space - those three dimensions Turin talks about. A more poetic description might allude to a breeze blowing through a section of forest or garden with a scent of florals in the air and definitely some decaying leaves mixed with the soil underfoot, a 'forest floor' note if you will - this being the oakmoss, which is now sadly lacking from chypre (and fougere) accords due to the fools in EU and IFRA who have restricted use of the stuff to almost zero.

    31 Rue Cambon is worth trying for the simple reason that it illustrates beautifully a classic chypre except that after a short while you realise there is nothing to stand on - the oakmoss is not there and there hasn't (to my knowledge) been any effort to disguise the fact - in a sense you are left floating in the air.

    Annick Goutal's Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille is worth experiencing because it is a terrific example of a 'nu-chypre' where a bitter patchouli accord has been used as a base - it is an extension of sorts of the classic Aromatics Elixiir to my mind (and still well worth trying - a no-nonsense chypre).

    Bottomline - for me anyway - is that when I step into a chypre I want a sense of space, it should be a three dimensional experience. It's remakable how so many of the 80's, even 90's, Guerlain Eaux de Colognes & Toilettes (Vol de Nuit, Parure, Mitsouko et al) and something like the 70's Eau de Patou, can seem so open and airy, yet also 'grounded' with such a low concentration of the core fragrance compared to so many current perfumes.

    It feels like the walls are closing in on us these days

    labdanum%2B(7).jpgUnknown-1.jpegUnknown.jpeg

    Collecting Labdanum + Oakmoss + Bergamot
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 13th November 2013 at 04:34 AM.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    So many things ...

    If you stop at a Macy's or the like, you should also smell the Estee Lauder cited in another thread, ie Azuree, Knowing, Private Collection (which has lost a lot of oakmoss, though), and especially Clinique Aromatics Elixir (clinique is owned by Estee lauder)

    cacio

  37. #37

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    I don't have it in front of me but I seem to recall Luca Turin making the analogy of the three core chypre ingredients, (bergamot, labdanum and oakmoss) constituting the three dimensions of a room which then allow you re-arrange the furniture inside more or less at will.

    This makes sense to me.

    Hence Mitsouko has some peach, AdP Profumo wine-rose, some have leather and some are more bitter-green (galbanum, vetiver, patchouli) and so on.

    The key thing for a chypre to 'feel right' for me is simple, it's the sense of expansiveness, of space - those three dimensions Turin talks about. A more poetic description might allude to a breeze blowing through a section of forest or garden with a scent of florals in the air and definitely some decaying leaves mixed with the soil underfoot, a 'forest floor' note if you will - this being the oakmoss, which is now sadly lacking from chypre (and fougere) accords due to the fools in EU and IFRA who have restricted use of the stuff to almost zero.

    31 Rue Cambon is worth trying for the simple reason that it illustrates beautifully a classic chypre except that after a short while you realise there is nothing to stand on - the oakmoss is not there and there hasn't (to my knowledge) been any effort to disguise the fact - in a sense you are left floating in the air.

    Annick Goutal's Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille is worth experiencing because it is a terrific example of a 'nu-chypre' where a bitter patchouli accord has been used as a base - it is an extension of sorts of the classic Aromatics Elixiir to my mind (and still well worth trying - a no-nonsense chypre).

    Bottomline - for me anyway - is that when I step into a chypre I want a sense of space, it should be a three dimensional experience. It's remakable how so many of the 80's, even 90's, Guerlain Eaux de Colognes & Toilettes (Vol de Nuit, Parure, Mitsouko et al) and something like the 70's Eau de Patou, can seem so open and airy, yet also 'grounded' with such a low concentration of the core fragrance compared to so many current perfumes.

    It feels like the walls are closing in on us these days

    labdanum%2B(7).jpgUnknown-1.jpegUnknown.jpeg

    Collecting Labdanum + Oakmoss + Bergamot
    Wonderful concepts beautifully worded, mr.reasonable.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    So many things ...

    If you stop at a Macy's or the like, you should also smell the Estee Lauder cited in another thread, ie Azuree, Knowing, Private Collection (which has lost a lot of oakmoss, though), and especially Clinique Aromatics Elixir (clinique is owned by Estee lauder)

    cacio
    Yes, that's sensible. I think I'm beginning not to love perfume counters, much like I don't love libraries—full of books I don't own.

  38. #38
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    I don't have it in front of me but I seem to recall Luca Turin making the analogy of the three core chypre ingredients, (bergamot, labdanum and oakmoss) constituting the three dimensions of a room which then allow you re-arrange the furniture inside more or less at will........
    Thanks mr. reasonable.

    From Luca Turin's Mitsouko review:

    “Chypre was based on a three component accord so perfect that it remains unsurpassed and fertile in new developments ninety years later: bergamot, labdanum, and oakmoss. They smell respectively citrus-resinous, sweet-amber-resinous, and bitter-resinous. Picture them as equal sectors making up a pie chart, sticking to each other via the resin. The resulting genre, now called chypre, has two fundamental qualities: balance and abstraction.”

  39. #39
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Cacio, I hope you don't mind my porting your comment over here for reply. And thanks, mr. Reasonable and others for the new suggestions, included below. I spent a happy hour or so on the Frangrantica Chypre Floral list and found myself adding all that appealed. Any comments before I go into acquisition mode, not expecting to find or get them all (but wouldn't it be thrilling?) Do you have any suggested skips or must-sniffs?

    I'm thinking I could make a Chypre pass from this.

    08 Une Rose Chypre
    34 Boulevard St. Germain, Diptique
    Acqua di Parma Profumo (vintage)
    Abano, Prince Matchabelli (vintage)
    Aigues Vives
    Ange ou Demon Le Secret Elixir
    Anthropologie's Belle du Soir, Le Labo
    Armani Si'
    Aoud Shiny, Montale
    Azalee
    Balenciaga Paris
    Bandit, Robert Piguet
    Bianco, Bruno Acampora
    Black Tie, Cassini
    Chance Eau Fraiche, Chanel
    Chance, Chanel
    Chypre Rouge, Serge Lutens
    Coco Mademoiselle
    Cosmic
    Daim Blond
    Diamella, Yves Rocher
    Eclat de Jasmin, Giorgio Armani
    Eau Sauvage
    Estee Lauder White Moss
    Eau de Metal, Pace Rabanne (since I still have some)
    Enlevement au Serail
    Fate Woman, Amouage
    Flora by Gucci 1966
    Johana Keiko Mecheri
    Jubilation 25
    Lady Caron
    Lafeorosa, O'Driu
    Le Parfum de Therese, Malle
    M. Micallef
    Neroli, Roja Dove
    Nino Ceruti Pour Femme
    Ormonde Jayne Tiare
    Parfum de Grasse, DHS
    Place Rouge, Guerlain
    Promesse de l'Aube
    Rochas Femme (vintage)
    Rosae Mundi, Profumum Roma
    Sublime, Jean Patou
    Umbe Keiko Mecheria
    Une Histoire de Chypre, Molinard
    Valentina Assoluto
    Very Irresistible Givenchy L'Intense
    White Patchouli, Tom Ford
    I don't know all of them, but many on this list don't seem like chypres to me. Now that oakmoss is effectively banned, perfume houses seem to take that as a license to call almost anything a chypre. It's become kind of a buzzword. And many of those in the list are not even described by the house as chypres.

    I've highlighted the ones that I've tried and that I think are chypres.

    Of the rest, some of the ones I don't think of as chypres are: Chanel Chance and Coco Mademoiselle, Daim Blond, 34 BSG, Eau Sauvage, Sublime.

    I don't know most of the rest.

    I'm not sure how Fragrantica populated their list. Whoever compiled it seems to have a pretty broad definition of a chypre. Some people seem to think that anything that lists citrus and moss notes is a chypre, but many things that do don't smell like chypres.

    It's like Mr. Reasonable says - they have to have a sense of space, and almost nothing in production today does.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  40. #40

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    But Daim Blond and Fate Woman are both so wonderful it doesn't really matter what they are

  41. #41

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Eau Sauvage had a light chypre base in the original version, but now it's gone. Unfortunately what happened to many classic masculine citruses (Eau Sauvage, Eau d'Hadrien, Chanel pour monsieur, Cravache).

    cacio

  42. #42

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Guys, this is really a fantastic thread!
    ScentFan, you've really lived up to your user name - I can't thank you enough for you original post and follow-ups too. What a great read!

  43. #43

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    Guys, this is really a fantastic thread!
    ScentFan, you've really lived up to your user name - I can't thank you enough for you original post and follow-ups too. What a great read!
    Glad you like them, rum. Perfume is a new obsession and I wanted to know, smell and own everything instantly, but soon realized slowing down and digging in will work better for me.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Rubegon, trying to decide whether to prune this list. Maybe I'll go for the BN recommendations first then try some of the rest to see if I can tell the difference.

  44. #44

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    MDCI Chypre Palatin

    This fragrance's longevity is about 4 days.
    Basenotes sales: Many collectible/discontinued CREEDs (Angelique Encens, Citrus Bigarrade, Selection Verte), Himalaya & other Basenotes favorites (Xerjoff Uden, Spicebomb, Heeley Oranges & Lemons, L'Artisan Batucada, L'Essence de Cerutti) http://www.basenotes.net/threads/340...ns-L-deCerruti

    Offsite sales: Collectible CREEDs (Vintage Tabarome Private Collection, Angelique Encens, Selection Verte, Citrus Bigarrade), Pure White Cologne, Himalaya & other Basenotes favorites (Xerjoff Uden, Spicebomb, Heeley Oranges & Lemons, L'Artisan Batucada, L'Essence de Cerutti) http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=260 and http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=626

  45. #45

  46. #46

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Hello, BNers.

    Having consulted all inputs and searched high and low, the following 1 ml samples are either on order or I already own them -- beautiful tutors in my Learning Chypre project. Next is to organize them into meaningful groups. Um...um...I'll think of something, but they're on the way!!

    chypre.jpg
    (pic is from The Perfumed Court)


    Traditional Chypres
    (bergamot, cistus labdanum and oakmoss, usually with musk)

    *08 Une Rose Chypre, Tauer
    *Aromatics Elixir
    *Azuree, Estee Lauder
    *Bandit, Robert Piguet
    *Cosmic, Solange
    *Cristalle, EDT
    *Cuir de Russe, Chanel (vintage)
    *Diva, Ungaro
    *Hasu-No-Hana, Grossmith
    *Jubilation 25
    *Knowing, Estee Lauder
    *Lady Caron
    *Ma Griffe, Carven
    *Eau de Metal, Pace Rabanne (since I still have some)
    *Miss Balmain
    *Miss Dior
    *Paloma Picasso
    *Private Collection by Estee Lauder
    *Rochas Femme (vintage)
    *Tabac Blond, Caron


    Modern Chypres, some questionable, but it will be fun to sniff them out
    (citrus, resin, patchouli-vetiver-musk or some facsimile)

    *31 Rue Cambon
    *Anthropologie's Belle du Soir, Le Labo
    *Chypre Palatin, MDCI
    *Chypre Rouge, Serge Lutens
    *Coco Mademoiselle
    *Daim Blond
    *Eclat de Jasmin, Giorgio Armani
    *Enlevement au Serail
    *Estee Lauder White Moss
    *Fate Woman, Amouage
    *La Parfum de Therese, Frederic Malle
    *Le Labo Ylang 49
    *Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille, Annick Goutal
    *Noir Epices, Frederic Malle
    *Ormonde Jayne Tiare
    *Parfum de Grasse, DHS
    *Promesse de l’Aube
    *Rosae Mundi, Profumum Roma
    *Rose de Nuit, SL
    *Ume, Keiko Mecheria

    I started to correct spellings, but it's late. Maybe tomorrow.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 16th November 2013 at 04:50 PM. Reason: add perfume

  47. #47
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Nice list! That's some serious sniffing you've got lined up.

    I would say that Diva is more a traditional chypre, and Chypre Palatin more a modern one.
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  48. #48

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    Nice list! That's some serious sniffing you've got lined up.

    I would say that Diva is more a traditional chypre, and Chypre Palatin more a modern one.
    Merci beaucoup and muchas gracias!

  49. #49
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    I am so in love with Chypre Rouge, I'll be interested to see what you think of it. I was told it's not really a chypre, but it certainly is Cyprus. I guess it must not have the other two portions of the triad.

    You're lists look wonderful for sniffing! Do enjoy.

  50. #50
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    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Oh, and regarding Miss Dior - this is a little confusing. Dior launched a new one - this is in a bottle that has a silver bow on it, and has Natalie Portman in the ads. Completely different.

    They still make Miss Dior Originale, which is I think a de-fanged version of the original due to oakmoss restrictions.

    If you want to experience the proper Miss Dior chypre experience, you need to go vintage. The bottles with the houndstooth pattern I think are what you want. Look for a boxed mini, something like this one:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-MISS...item5af76a2e04

    I wouldn't buy one that doesn't come in a box though - it will probably be spoiled otherwise.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  51. #51

    Default Re: Learning Chypre

    Rubegon, I ordered what I think is a vintage decant from The Perfumed Court. http://theperfumedcourt.com/Products...SSDIOREDT.aspx. Will update the sniff list with the proper names and vintages.

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