Non oppresive old fashioned styled niche offerings

[Pollux]

Hello fellow Basenoters,

I had the chance of trying some high end niche blends: most by Eau D'Italie, many Amouage, some Creeds, many Fueguia's, one Histoire de Parfums, some Juliette Has a Gun, even the ones of Les Exclusives and the Orientals by Annick Goutal.

I detect in them some points in common: complexity, sillage and longevity as well a synthetic feeling: odd notes, like play-dough notes in one of Goutals, or a heavyness in the ones by L'Eau D'italy/ie. Well, this is not so in the case of L'Artisans, but I can detect, albeit limited longevity, something I did not get in the rest, a sense of "flow", notes morph along a continuum, while in the rest notes are clearly marked. I also got this from Chanel's Les Exclusives.

The word I found to describe the first ones is "oppresive". The blend lingers for hourse as a leech. Nothing bad per se, but I prefer scents with 4 to 6 hour long longevity. I like proposals such as vintage Chanel pour Monsieur, Monsieur de Givenchy, Revillon pour Homme ot Courege's: they are characterized by brash top notes but in a very short time they settle and linger on the skin for a respectable amount of time. They are clearly masculine, sweetness is non existant or rather subdued.

My question is if there are niche scents blended under this criteria: Buxton's comes to mind, for instance, as well as Rance's or Piguet's Cravache. Are there others under this category that are remarkable as were Roudnitska's or the early Guy Robert's works? Can there be a niche version of Dior's Eau Sauvage, or Rochas Moustache? I know Ligea by Carthusia has remarkable ppints in common with vintage Shalimar. What about manly scents?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

[cacio]

Many of the vintage perfumes you cite were based on oakmoss, now banned from niche and mainstream alike. Oakmoss, like other materials like sandalwood, helped give persistence but without overpowering.

Off the top of my head, I think Parfums MDCI does have something that will come off as old fashioned, complex and evolving, but perhaps more in the feminines, like the citrusy Promesse de l'Aube. I'm also thinking about Ormonde Jayne Tiare, a citrus-green chypre, though I wonder whether you may find it a bit too strong (it does last more than 4 hrs on me). And just this morning somebody posted a link to today's review by Luca Turin of Grossmith's Shams el nessim, which I have not smelled, but which from his description sounded in the style.

cacio

[ajmc]

I would recommend sampling some scents from Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.
MPG fragrances have an old world classic French style feel about them.

I would start with:

Ambre Precieux
Santal Noble
Eau des Iles
Parfum d'Habit
Jardin du Nil
Iris Bleu Gris

With the exception of Parfum d'Habit, I have smelled only the vintage versions of the above. To my nose the reformulated version is 90 percent the same as the vintage. Many Bsenoters have said others have had bigger changes. But I suspect they have kept their old world charm.

Hopefully others will chime in.

[Buysblind]

I think Uomo by Lorenzo Villoresi may fit your criteria.

[mangalor]

Actually I had a very similar and specific request (tried to find a modern niche with all these clasic inputs, Pour Monsieur is a staple in wardrobe).
and I have found 2 niche lines that can be interesting to explore - first is Frederic Malle Editions De Parfums (all of them a great) and second is Jardins D'Ecrivains (a brand new company with little buzz here on BN but their offerings are solid). Jardins D'Ecrivains George (in honour of George Sand) is the one I use for 2 weeks at a row: neroli, heliotrope, soapy musk, myrrh, cigar tobacco, coffee, peruvian tolu - very vintage and musculine in feel.

[Marais]

I think Uomo by Lorenzo Villoresi may fit your criteria.

Great suggestion. Classical but not heavy. I'd put Balafre de Lancome in the same category.

[easyfish]

You can check Rancé (Le Vainqueur, the Eaux), some of the Penhaligon´s´ offerings (Hammam Bouquet, Racquets Formula, Sartorial) and the scents of Detaille; they all got an old fashioned vibe.

[mr. reasonable]

Did you try Granville from Dior Prive Collection?

Or Black from Pascal Morabito is another one worth looking into.

Also agree with Uomo from Lorenzo Villoresi.

[hednic]

Second the scents from Detaille. Definitely fit the old fashioned mode IMO.

[Dane77]

Many excellent suggestions already - I second especially Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, Parfums MDCI, and Lorenzo Villoresi. Have you considered trying something genuinely classic/old-fashioned from the niche scene? I'm thinking Santa Maria Novella, for example. They have a huge range in the classic Italian/mediterranean cologne style, a couple of their Florentine recipies going back centuries. There's also Echt Kölnisch Wasser by Farina Gegenüber from Cologne, Germany (house founded in 1709) or Viennese Knize Ten - a rich and gorgeous turn-of-the-century masculine leather (the latter perhaps too "oppressive" for your tastes, though - it's certainly extremely potent).

[TLS]

Maybe By Kilian Pure Oud is not word the money IYO but I think it fits the old fashioned non oppressive style.

[sjg3839]

Green Irish Tweed

[Ken_Russell]

Possibly also ADP Colonia, Acqua di Genova, Carthusia Uomo, Knize Forest, Penhaligons Blenheim Bouquet and Opus 1870, Hugh Parsons Yellow, Acca Kappa Cedro, Taylor's of Old Bond Street Eton College Collection, even the hugely popular but not less classy and smooth Creed GIT and OV, two comparatively recent bestsellers with a vintage feel, may be worth adding to the already outstandingly good and diverse suggestions above.

[Kaern]

Grossmith's Shams el nessim,

cacio

Yeah -- all of the Grossmiths have a an 'old school' aura - in a beautiful way though. Check out Golden Chypre
Would second Penhaligons for cheaper options also

[Pollux]

Well, that leaves Detaille, Grossmith, Santa Maria Novella, MP&G, Lorenzi Villores, Rancé, Malle (I found Iris Poudre unbereable! LOL), Killian plus Ken's suggestions. Will have these for testing and future buying list - which will be difficult since none of them are available down here.

Def. will give a sample of Rance's Triomph a full trial as soon as possible. Promiss to report back.

Thank y'all!

- - - Updated - - -

Hednic, I am lurking at Detaille's site.

Do you have a particular suggestion among

Aéroplane
Escrimeur
Yachting
Par 4
Miles

Thanks in advance!

[Tony T]

New York By PDN fits the bill as well
ADP Colonia

[deadidol]

Take a look at two smaller brands, both of whom are site members. PK Perfume's Ere and Bogue Profumo's Cologne Reloaded. Both offer exceptionally thoughtful takes on classical styles without overstaying their welcome.

[mr. reasonable]

At some point I'm going to grab Aeroplane & Escrimeur from Detaille, for sure.

[hednic]

Hednic, I am lurking at Detaille's site.

Do you have a particular suggestion among

Aéroplane
Escrimeur
Yachting
Par 4
Miles

Thanks in advance!

Sorry Pollux just saw this. A bit late. Escimeur is my preferred of the five with Aeroplane a close second.

[Pollux]

Sorry Pollux just saw this. A bit late. Escimeur is my preferred of the five with Aeroplane a close second.

Thanks for your suggestion!

[joe mcclaine]

Niche Eau Sauvage?

Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet.

[Pollux]

Niche Eau Sauvage?

Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet.

I have one of these sets of samples. among them, there is Blenheim Bouquet, this is a nice one, thanks.

Now, it s obvious there is something when you compare it to the vintage formulation of Eau Sauvage, and since I was succesful at finding vintage bottles of it, you got it right.

Damned IFRA

Off topic: I got this Amber Eau de Cologne from Lubin dating from the 1940's. It really makes you aware that the prole drift is a reality, even in perfume making.

[Ciprian]

Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d'Homme