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  1. #1
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    Cool Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    ***UPDATE: We have seven sniffers, which is just just right.***

    I have added another vintage Weil to my collection, Cassandra EdC in packaging old enough to not have UPC bars on it. At first smell, with moi getting over a cold, this creation of Jacqueline Fraysse is clearly Weil, a cousin to the spicier Zibeline and the sweeter Antilope, with just a hint of that "fond du ashtray" that I find appealing, appearing most notably in Miss Balmain. Propelled thus into a serial sniff, I arrayed them: Antilope, Cassandra, Miss Balmain (not a Weil, but stick with me), and, finally the grande dame Zibeline. This is indeed a scent progression with flowers receding, as wood, smoke and animalics take over. I like the idea of a sample pass that represents a progression. Interested? A mix of experienced* and new** noses would be most welcome.



    * the usual and unusual suspects
    ** ScentFan, I'm looking at you!

    P1040053.jpg
    Last edited by jujy54; 8th December 2013 at 02:49 AM. Reason: added photo
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: A rarirty: Weil Cassandra

    Jujy, if you ever need, I can contribute a 3ml decant of Miss Balmain (from the early 80s) to your sample pass. Fond de fumee all the way!

  3. #3
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    Default Re: A rarirty: Weil Cassandra

    Oh, my, yes, dear Twolf. I don't know the vintage of my ebay purchase, in a ribbed spray bottle, no box. Miss B is one of the greats in my book. Allow me to announce a sample pass, probably by editing the title of this thread, and see if there is interest.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Anyone??? Sample pass??? All I need is you.

    needily needling, I remain,

    jujy
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  4. #4
    Super Member Schilling's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    My dear, this sounds lovely, but I'm swamped in samples right now from the Meet-up and probably will be through the New Year. I've made friends with several of these little lovelies, but there are some real stinkers in here that I will be unloading on several you who were unable to join us.

    Bogsc has a good nose for Weil. Hello, Brooklyn?

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    I have added another vintage Weil to my collection, Cassandra EdC in packaging old enough to not have UPC bars on it. At first smell, with moi getting over a cold, this creation of Jacqueline Fraysse is clearly Weil, a cousin to the spicier Zibeline and the sweeter Antilope, with just a hint of that "fond du ashtray" that I find appealing, appearing most notably in Miss Balmain. Propelled thus into a serial sniff, I arrayed them: Antilope, Cassandra, Miss Balmain (not a Weil, but stick with me), and, finally the grande dame Zibeline. This is indeed a scent progression with flowers receding, as wood, smoke and animalics take over. I like the idea of a sample pass that represents a progression. Interested? A mix of experienced* and new** noses would be most welcome.



    * the usual and unusual suspects
    ** ScentFan, I'm looking at you!

    P1040053.jpg
    jujy54 if you don't mind that I'm still so new that I have to research what you've said, I'd love to participate.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 14th November 2013 at 05:04 AM.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    Not at all, ScentFan. I've enjoyed your observations here on basenotes, and the best sample passes are a blend of friends old and new, novice and experienced noses. Tell your friends, I'd love to put together a pass for three to five sniffers.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    I have not smelled any from Weil and curious about Miss Balmain.. please count me in.
    "Only by pride cometh contention: but with the well advised is wisdom." "It is honorable for a man to stop striving, Since any fool can start a quarrel." Proverbs.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    Ah, kalli and ScentFan are in [smiles]. So, TWolf, are you a participant as well as contributor?

    Any other sniffers?
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    I think I will pass this time, I am fairly well-versed on Weil (not Cassandra though) and would love to have more people to get to know the house and its masterpieces.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    These are all completely new to me, but if, like Scentfan, you don't mind my being a mere infant in the land of scent, I'd be delighted to join the noses.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    Welcome aboard, danieq!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    These are all new to me, and I have been enjoying exploring vintage scents. I would like to be included if that's OK. I am in the US.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    I'd like to participate.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    I was SO fortunate to be part of your other Weil pass, jujy. And I would really love to try another precious vintage Weil. But I have been in few passes already, I can't possible to take away this great opportunity from someone else. Maybe if you can put me towards the very end, and whatever is left, left - only then I can pacify my consciousness.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    Fantastic. We have six participants:

    •ScentFan
    •kalli
    •danieq
    •matildaben
    •juanderer
    •WhiteFluffy

    Let me double check my decanting supplies and think about what order to pass. What do we say, a new or novice nose to start? Anyone want to be first or last? WiteFluffy, I think your contribution would be valuable somewhere before the end, if that's all right.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: we have 6 sniffers (:

    Lovely! I am happy to be placed wherever you see fit. I believe I am likely to be the newest to the scent fest, having begun only in July if that helps you to decide.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: we have 6 sniffers (:

    If there is still room, I'd love to join!

    - - - Updated - - -

    And thanks for the shout out my dear friend schilling. It's been a lost week...and I would have missed this without ur suggestion and jujy's kind query about my interest!

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: we have 6 sniffers (:

    And bogsc makes seven! Stay tuned (:
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  19. #19

    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    I don't care what order I am in, btw.
    "Only by pride cometh contention: but with the well advised is wisdom." "It is honorable for a man to stop striving, Since any fool can start a quarrel." Proverbs.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    I really look forward to reading this. I've been seeing Weil mentioned with much love around here, and it's piqued my interest. I'm buried in work (and samples from Chicago) til after the New Year so I didn't want to jump into the pass, but I'll be stalking the thread to see what you all have to say!

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post

    Let me double check my decanting supplies and think about what order to pass. What do we say, a new or novice nose to start? Anyone want to be first or last? WiteFluffy, I think your contribution would be valuable somewhere before the end, if that's all right.
    You are the boss, jujy

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    Put me where you want me, jujy54. I'm happy to start, or end, or go anywhere in the middle. I assume we post our replies here when we get the samples?

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    Hi, everyone. I've not forgotten this, just been really under the weather for nearly two weeks. I'll post the order of the sample pass tomorrow, decant this weekend.

    I feel some mission creep coming on, as I have just acquired the storied Weil Secret de Venus Huile de Bain (bath oil). Not sure whether to add it to the three Weils plus Miss Balmain, or make it is own event. Thoughts?
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    Hi, everyone. I've not forgotten this, just been really under the weather for nearly two weeks. I'll post the order of the sample pass tomorrow, decant this weekend.

    I feel some mission creep coming on, as I have just acquired the storied Weil Secret de Venus Huile de Bain (bath oil). Not sure whether to add it to the three Weils plus Miss Balmain, or make it is own event. Thoughts?
    Hope you feel up to snuff soon! I've read up on Weil and look forward to whatever you send.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    My two scents are that Huil de Bain would be better for another event. Only because not everyone is into baths. (I'm assuming that is how you'd test it, though perhaps I am mistaken here and it could be used as a scent just like perfume oil?)

    - - - Updated - - -

    So sorry to hear that you've been ill. Always so exhausting. Here's hoping you feel better in a flash!

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    I agree, danieq. While I'm at it, I've resolved to decant my samples BEFORE I announce a pass to reduce lag time. Amongst other things, I am a master procrastinator.

    That said, here's the order of sniffing, and a good mix of new and experienced sniffer it is:

    •bogsc sniffs first then sends to ScentFan
    •ScentFan sends to kalli
    •kalli sends to danieq
    •danieq sends to matildaben
    •matildaben sends to juanderer, and---
    •juanderer sends to our ultimate sniffer, WhiteFluffy!

    It's all packed and weighed, to be mailed today.

    I'm sending along a letter; here's the gist of it:
    There are three Weils, which I recommend sniffing in this order, which happens to be newest to oldest, oddly enough:
    Antilope, Cassandra, and finally Zibeline.

    Cassandra's smokiness reminded me of Miss Balmain, of which there are two samples, an 80s vintage from TWolf (thank you!) and some of uncertain vintage from moi. Sniff the Miss Bs; I will be interested as to whether or not you sense a connection to the Weils. Some days I do, and others I don't. If they share anything, I would say it is "stealth jasmine"; jasmine is present in all of them, but it lurks rather more than shines. I had never connected Miss Balmain at all to jasmine until it got mention on a jasmine thread.

    Please pm your sender with contact info.

    Happy sniffing; I look forward to everyone's smell-and-tell!
    Last edited by jujy54; 20th December 2013 at 10:24 PM. Reason: speling
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    Wore Antilope from Jujy's sample this morning. According to Fragrantica...Antilope was introduced in 1946 as a floral aldehyde. Top notes are neroli, bergamot and aldehydes. Heart has clary sage, rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, carnation, iris and violet. Base notes include sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, tonka, amber, oak moss and musk. I'm familiar with Antilope as I participated in a split of a bottle awhile ago. In fact, I was moved to grab my vintage PDT decant off the shelf tonight so I could spray extravagantly.

    The 3 brothers who founded Weil apparently got their inspiration from fur and it's definitely apparent in the Weil perfumes I've been lucky enough to try. No matter how much you dab (this morning) or spray (tonight), Antilope hugs you close. It's often compared to Chanel #5 (no doubt because of the aldehydes), which I also enjoy. Antilope is a well blended perfume...no single note shouts out at me. Doesn't come off as flowery to me at all. A little herbal, yes, but not sharply so. Warm, fuzzy, comforting (like soft leather) is how I'd describe it, particularly once the base notes kick in (which happens pretty fast in the vintage versions I've tried). I think Antilope is perfect for this time of year. Buyer beware...I've heard the newer reformulated version is unrecognizable as Antilope.

    My partner's (not a big perfume fan) immediate impression...baby powder and soft rose. She insisted that I was wearing different perfumes on my two arms and when I informed her that I had sprayed the same perfume from the same bottle on both arms, she told me that I obviously "broke the perfume" that was on my left arm cause she didn't like it nearly as much as the perfume on my right arm. Make of that what you will...
    Last edited by bogsc; 5th December 2013 at 02:26 AM.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    Antilope has one of my favorite drydowns; I call it "lotion-y".
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    Oh dear. Falling hard for Cassandra. Love this smoky, spicy beauty. I'm wearing Miss Balmain on other arm and I definitely see the similarities particularly in initial phases but turns out I prefer the dry down of Cassandra!

    Was trying to find info on Cassandra and stumbled across this from The Vintage Perfume Vault..."Furriers by trade, perfumers by destiny. Since 1920 Alfred, Jacques and Marcel Weil enjoyed great success as designers practicing in the trade of fur at Les Fourrures Weil. Then in 1927 a wealthy client requested a perfume designed especially to sweeten fur without damaging it and Parfums Weil was born. The brothers hired talented nose Claude Fraysse to create the first Weil parfums. Fraysse had trained at Firmenich; he was considered to be the very top nose at Yardley, which was one of the largest commercial perfume houses at the time."

    His daughter, Jacqueline Fraysse, created Cassandra, which was released in 1936, and it's reported that it took her two years to perfect the formula. Again, according to The Vintage Perfume Vault..."Jacqueline Fraysse...worked in a male dominated field at a time when most young women stayed home, or if they were adventurous, needy or otherwise inclined, worked in other people's homes. She came of age in the electrifying, emancipating atmosphere of 1920s Paris and New York - the Jazz Age. Yet she lived and worked under the watchful eyes of her perfumer father and brothers. Judging from the quality and success of the perfumes, she flourished even throughout the difficult years of depression and war that followed."

    I love that I'm wearing a perfume created by a female "nose" back in the 20s/30s.

    According to Perfumed Court, the notes for Cassandra are "anise like... a hint of stryax, fruits and florals." As I've found with all the Weil perfumes I've experienced to date, the perfume notes in Cassandra are beautifully blended and the perfume hugs close rather than creating a trail behind you.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    I'm loving Cassandra myself. Wish I could have scored the extrait or the EdT, but this EdC is tenacious!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  31. #31
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    I'm loving Cassandra myself. Wish I could have scored the extrait or the EdT, but this EdC is tenacious!
    Love your writeups, bogsc. These sound like scents I'm going to enjoy. Thanks for doing the research. Don't know what I'll add, but I can't wait to try them.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    ScentFan, based on your Caron experience, I believe you will enjoy exploring these three scents from one house—figuring out what makes Weil Weil, as well finding the Miss Bamain connection, if you indeed perceive one.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Scentfan, Perfume samples in the mail to you today. Will post about Zibeline when I have a bit more time. Enjoy! Carolyn

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Thanks, Carolyn. Think I have a sample if Miss Balmain here, juju54. Will locate it.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Hi, SF, there are two Miss Balmain samples in the pass-around, one from me and some reliably identified vintage from TWolf.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Wearing Zibeline to a wedding party today. (I have a small sample which I'm hoarding while I try to get my hands on a bottle.) Thought it would be perfect scent to wear in the midst of the snowstorm we're having in NYC. According to Fragrantica...Zibeline was launched in 1928. Top notes are aldehydes, coriander, tarragon, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are iris, gardenia, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose; base notes are honey, sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, civet and vetiver. Love the spices in the top notes. Adore the flowers in the middle. The dry down is just breathtaking. I've seen this one compared with Bal a Versailles, another favorite of mine. Have to wear them both side by side one of these days to compare.

    Adore these perfumes first created during the roaring 20's.

    Thanks to Jujy for turning me on to them in the first place!!!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    The Weil's arrived! Thanks, bogsc. Will unpack and start sniffing tonight or tomorrow morning. Kalli, if you'll PM your address, I'll get it to you as soon as I'm done.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 19th December 2013 at 01:02 AM.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Per instructions, I'm doing a swift initial sniff through the Weils on paper in reverse order of their creation: Antilope, Cassandra, Zibeline. Then I'll wear them and report.

    Antilope. Gorgeous! What did they put in these vintage perfumes that they don't use anymore? I'm smelling citrus, maybe orange, perhaps bergamot, jasmine, rose and other fabulous stuff, probably sandalwood and perhaps musk. It must be jasmine that creates that deep intoxication, but I'm not yet sure of my flowers, so it could be something else. Nothing bothers my nose which, to me, is beginning to signal: no chemicals. When was this created? 1945, the year WWII ended and people started living again. One of the most horrendous acts in human history had just occurred, the bombing of Nagaski and Hiroshima. To me, this lovely perfume created that year is evidence of our dual nature -- we humans are equally capable of unspeakable destruction and inexpressible beauty like this. Looking up the notes, I see this is a chypre, a genre I do like. No jasmine, just ylang ylang, apparently. The citrus is tangerine and neroli. Wait, Fragrantica says the citrus is bergamot and neroli. Score one for my nose. It says it has jasmine and rose, that's two for the nose. The base has a combo I find I always like: sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss, musk. Amber, tonka and vetiver are in there, too. No wonder I think it's great. The longer I sniff, though, the aldehydes make it a tiny tad suffocating for me, persnickety nose that I have. Sniffing more, I don't want to wear it for that reason. No mistake that it's a classic.

    Cassandra. Made by the daughter Jacqueline in 1936. This is a lighter, less indolic perfume that seems to contain woods or things my nose is too new to identify. However, I'd bet money there's jasmine among the florals. It's nice, bright, but doesn't compel me to add the word, gorgeous. It contains a spicy or resinous note I don't completely love. Switching back and forth between the papers, Antilope is more my kind of scent. It's more voluptuous.

    Where went the coffee beans? Okay, found them. Wonder if they really work?

    Zibeline. Love, love the richly sweet top note and how my nose is overcome by the florals. It's so potent, I'm not sure I could tolerate it for long, though. I like whatever's in the base. Is this another chypre? Almost. I've got a bag full of them waiting to sniff. Fragrantica doesn't say it has oakmoss in the base or any labdanum, so it's not a full chypre. Fragrantica calls it a floral aldehyde. But for the aldehydes it's really beautiful.

    Holding all three papers, Antilope and Zibeline are by far my favorites. Stopping because of O.F. Not sure I can wear these, but tomorrow I'll try. Oh, the Miss Balmains. Forgot why we're comparing them, but here goes:

    Miss Balmain from Twolf
    . To me, this is closest to Cassandra, but I need to resume tomorrow because I can't smell anything anymore.

  39. #39
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    SF, Antilope's drydown may be my favorite in my collection, and I think clary sage may be part of the allure. I experience the aldehydes as anisic tho not overwhelmingly so. Antilope has had several iterations, thus the variations in reported notes. I once read it described as an aldehydic floral chypre, which could suggest an indecisive mess, tho in this case it simply means many, many notes well blended with a most satisfying progression.

    Oh, but your connecting Antilope to 1945 and the end of the war is so touching and apt! It slightly antedates Miss Dior and the New Look, with which it shares a certain (more chaste) vibe, perhaps a return to femininity celebrated after years of austerity and angst.

    On to Zibeline, the first "fur" perfume and from the Roaring 20s. It can be overwhelming, as it was meant to disguise the mustiness of furs; I actually do spray it on my mom's mink and like it best thus worn.

    In between, Cassandra, from 1935, before the Weils, a Jewish family, were forced to flee Vichy France in 1939. A little butch, and all the more interesting for being the scent of a woman—to borrow a phrase!—inasmuch as it was made by a woman for women, as is Miss Balmain. I'm wild about it. You may find over time, those indolic notes will get to you. I can send you more if you'd like to do some extended sniffing.


    Here is a brief summary of the history of Weil from Perfume shrine.


    Re: the Miss Balmains: I would suggest sniffing them relative to Cassandra, that should be more than enough.

    Lastly, do you sense a common thread amongst the Weils?

    Thank you for a splendid summary.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    ... A little butch, and all the more interesting for being the scent of a woman—to borrow a phrase!—inasmuch as it was made by a woman for women, as is Miss Balmain.... Lastly, do you sense a common thread amongst the Weils?

    Thank you for a splendid summary.
    That's precisely what I thought when sniffing Cassandra, but decided not to actually write it down. It was as if the men were designing for the women of their fantasies, but the daughter was rebelling against that. I'll have to sleep on it to discuss a common thread, other than the kind of complexity and sophistication it's hard to find anymore in perfumes. They do all seem to have jasmine, sandalwood and musk, if I'm not mistaken, a trio I always enjoy.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Agree with the trio. I think civet is featured, too. btw, if you decided to pursue Antilope on ebay, send me links, and I'll vet them for you. Avoid the tall hexagonal bottle, it is a modern EdC that is insipid and bears no resemblnace. Any circular label with a wreath of leaves is desirable vintage.
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/updated update: we have 7 sniffers (:

    Quote Originally Posted by bogsc View Post
    Oh dear. Falling hard for Cassandra. Love this smoky, spicy beauty. I'm wearing Miss Balmain on other arm and I definitely see the similarities particularly in initial phases but turns out I prefer the dry down of Cassandra!

    Was trying to find info on Cassandra and stumbled across this from The Vintage Perfume Vault..."Furriers by trade, perfumers by destiny. Since 1920 Alfred, Jacques and Marcel Weil enjoyed great success as designers practicing in the trade of fur at Les Fourrures Weil. Then in 1927 a wealthy client requested a perfume designed especially to sweeten fur without damaging it and Parfums Weil was born. The brothers hired talented nose Claude Fraysse to create the first Weil parfums. Fraysse had trained at Firmenich; he was considered to be the very top nose at Yardley, which was one of the largest commercial perfume houses at the time."

    His daughter, Jacqueline Fraysse, created Cassandra, which was released in 1936, and it's reported that it took her two years to perfect the formula. Again, according to The Vintage Perfume Vault..."Jacqueline Fraysse...worked in a male dominated field at a time when most young women stayed home, or if they were adventurous, needy or otherwise inclined, worked in other people's homes. She came of age in the electrifying, emancipating atmosphere of 1920s Paris and New York - the Jazz Age. Yet she lived and worked under the watchful eyes of her perfumer father and brothers. Judging from the quality and success of the perfumes, she flourished even throughout the difficult years of depression and war that followed."

    I love that I'm wearing a perfume created by a female "nose" back in the 20s/30s.

    According to Perfumed Court, the notes for Cassandra are "anise like... a hint of stryax, fruits and florals." As I've found with all the Weil perfumes I've experienced to date, the perfume notes in Cassandra are beautifully blended and the perfume hugs close rather than creating a trail behind you.

    After reading your thoughts Bogc, I can hardly wait to try Cassandra!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Hi, jujy54 and all. Fyi, the Weil samples are on their way today to Kalli. Thanks for including me. I enjoyed it.

  44. #44

    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Thanks SF.
    "Only by pride cometh contention: but with the well advised is wisdom." "It is honorable for a man to stop striving, Since any fool can start a quarrel." Proverbs.

  45. #45

    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Received, along with some other samples that I am sniffing atm.

    Thanks a lot!
    "Only by pride cometh contention: but with the well advised is wisdom." "It is honorable for a man to stop striving, Since any fool can start a quarrel." Proverbs.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Just landed another Jacqueline Fraysse—Weil Noir! A true rarity, it is badass in the Germaine Cellier mode. 1937. I'm getting tuberose, old sneaker and VapoRub, plus resin and ashtray, all in a good way! Love it!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  47. #47

    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Old sneaker, Vaporub and ashtray? That's interesting! Kinda gets my attention a bit.
    "Only by pride cometh contention: but with the well advised is wisdom." "It is honorable for a man to stop striving, Since any fool can start a quarrel." Proverbs.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Noir's not in the pass, kalli, tho I might have to send a smidge around to a few sniffers. That mentholated blast which ushers in tuberose reminds me of SL Tubereuse Criminelle.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  49. #49

    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Well, I gotta say I know nothing about this line. Just put some Ant on..it's very nice, smooth, classic, rosy, animalic, powdery, rooty.. reminds me of Chanel No. 5 EDC. but more oakmoss, a bit more masculine than Chanel No. 5. Very nice, such a classic. I thought I got civet in this? I smell rose and iris the most out of the florals. The mossy, vintage ones do seem to bother my sinuses, at times..so I can't seem to sniff them too much..bummer, I know. I do dig oakmoss. This is heavy on the oakmoss, more so than No. 5. This one does speak luxury for sure. It's all luxury. Such a wonderful, powdery, aldehyde perfume. Seems to stay close to the skin. Strong though! They don't make them like this anymore! Move aside Taylor Swift! lol.

    Miss Balmain Vtg..Oakmoss is so strong for me in these vintages, it's hard to get past..another powerhouse! So strong, dang. Ok, I get more amber in this one, a bit brighter florals..a bit sharp. I get a lemony citrus that make the perfume sparkle up..I like how the lemon, 'cleans up' ..or should I say, 'brightens up' the animalic, oakmoss-y elements to this. Very interesting. Rosy..an animalic, citrus-y rose. I like this one more than the Ant..just for the sparkly, lemon rose. The juice fades quickly on my skin...becomes powdery, a bit amber-y..did I mention I like the rose in this? Animalic floral, that sparkles a bit..then turns powdery and woody. Another floral..jasmine? Iris? Another I probably shouldn't sniff too much but the florals in this one are very nice. The woods are very nice..like old, porous wood, earthy and a bit dark. Becomes dry and musty on the dry down. It's has such a feminine side but also a more serious, darker side. Kinda like Mitsouko does in a way. Impressed!

    Cassandra...ooooooh oh.. nice! Haven't smelled anything like this before. Floral, almost nutty? It was almost like a praline but not quite. A bit sweet but smooth. I get a rose slightly sweetened with the lightest dust of powdered sugar...becomes very powdery. These dry perfumes just seem to puff away from my skin. This fume gets quite musky quickly..the musk nearly or probably kills it for me..but I soooo like the opening! Idk it's more powdery than musky though..even though the musk is there. I think everyone should sniff this one. I smell something like this, then I think of modern, department store fumes and I am like..what happened? Not that all are bad, I like several..it's just..I wish these type of perfumes were on the counters sometimes, ya know? I don't know..I would think about a decant of this. Where did you find this perfume, Jujy?

    Some reviews say that Cass is like No.5. I don't see much in common with that scent actually.
    Last edited by kalli; 30th December 2013 at 09:24 PM.
    "Only by pride cometh contention: but with the well advised is wisdom." "It is honorable for a man to stop striving, Since any fool can start a quarrel." Proverbs.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    good morning, kalli! Great sniffing! Thanks for pointing out the rose. As I mentioned earlier, I believe "stealth jasmine" is a also unifying note in this pass. "Nutty" is an apt description of that ineffable je-ne-sais-quoi in Cassandra, which, no, does not resemble N° 5 at all.


    I got a gift of Weil de Weil from a friend's mother back in the early 80s, dropped the bottle, alas, but never forgot how great it smelled. Forward several decades, I discover basenotes and ebay. My Weil collection is all ebay acquisitions. This led me to vintage in general, and I can think of few contemporary fragrances that get to me in the same way. I would say Serge Lutens is most consistently as engaging as vintage to my nose.


    Amongst the Weils, Weil de Weil, Zibeline, Antilope, and the Secret de Venus are the most easily found. Cassandra and Noir are very rare, as is Cobra. Perfume Intelligence has the most comprehensive listing of Weil, right here http://perfumeintelligence.co.uk/lib.../w/w7/w7p1.htm. Here's a picture of my collection so you know what vintage looks like. Avoid anything in a tall hexagonal bottle.

    P1040068.jpg
    Last edited by jujy54; 30th December 2013 at 12:42 PM.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  51. #51

    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Such a nice collection, Jujy. I know you have liked this line, I think there was another pass before..but admittedly, I didn't read much of it! Thanks for that link, haven't seen that site before. So later formulations came in the tall, hexagonal bottle?
    "Only by pride cometh contention: but with the well advised is wisdom." "It is honorable for a man to stop striving, Since any fool can start a quarrel." Proverbs.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    I did the previous sample pass, http://www.basenotes.net/threads/305153-Sample-pass-Weil-Then-and-Now, which includes a bit more history of the house. I also broke out old/new Weils, as the title implies. The hex bottles are EdCs, I bought one in a store in the early aughts, and it was weak, hairspray smelling stuff. In the photo for this thread, only Weil Pour Homme is contemporary, and its a decent old-school fougere. The rest are roughly 50s to 80s vintage.

    So glad you took to Antilope. It is a go-to for me. Yes, indeed, civet. Vintage Weil is never without the animal. I see Antilope as a springtime fragrance, and will probably go more to Cassandra, Noir, and Zibeline in the winter.
    Last edited by jujy54; 30th December 2013 at 10:11 PM.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  53. #53

    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Thanks for that link, I'll have to ck it out. Weak hairspray is one thing I try to stay away from, thanks for the info..


    Zibeline, more masculine than the Ant and Cassandra, getting strong iris, some rose and patchouli? If patch, it's just a smidge, not sure about patch though. Another powdery one. It's similar to Antilope..but more about the powder, less about the moss. This one is more civet-y than the Anti, therefore it reminds me more of No.5 EDC. But it's more iris-y a bit more masculine. It's very nice, a bit soapy. Woods strong but smooth, classic & velvet-y scent. Gets a bit more feminine on the dry down..but has a masculine, animalic edge to it. Rich florals with a bit of amber and musk. This one I like, but a bit more masculine than I'd prefer...does get a very nice, sweet amber note after a while, almost smells like root beer. I do like that! Then gets a bit soapy, so, so powdery. As it dries down more, I see less in common with No. 5. It's very unique and of course, classic. I prefer Antilope over this one though.

    Miss Balmain(more modern juice?). Reminds me of Magie Noire(modern formulation). It's a bit flat and is missing that lemon-y sparkle I found in the vintage. The notes aren't as rounded and pronounced. Just oakmoss, with a flat rose. Powdery, masculine. Vetiver and moss makes this one very powdery. If one has Magie Noire(modern)..I wouldn't bother with this or vice versa. While this juice doesn't make my sinuses as irritated..I prefer the scent of the vintage juice. It's like 1/3 of what the vintage is. And the oakmoss..smells more chemical. Where are those florals? Where's that lemon? Where is the leather? Such an interesting change from the vintage...I don't like it much, the rooty vetiver is still nice though. It's just missing quite a bit from the vintage.

    Thanks Jujy & Twolf for this powder puff-palooza!

    Guess these will be going out to Danieq soon.

    Thanks again!
    Last edited by kalli; 31st December 2013 at 10:51 AM.
    "Only by pride cometh contention: but with the well advised is wisdom." "It is honorable for a man to stop striving, Since any fool can start a quarrel." Proverbs.

  54. #54

    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Sent to Danieq.
    "Only by pride cometh contention: but with the well advised is wisdom." "It is honorable for a man to stop striving, Since any fool can start a quarrel." Proverbs.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    I've received my packet and begun the sniff. I've forgotten what most of you wrote about your experiences so perhaps that is good. I am wondering now, are these vintage samples or modern?

    This morning, I'm wearing Antilope and sniffing regularly. Here is my impression of the first hour of wear before having looked at the notes.

    The opening is quite sweet, alongside of aldehydes and a spiciness. As it develops more, it feels buttery yellow, the picture I got was of yellow flowers, something like daffodils, not necessarily the scent, but the look of them, waving in the wind gently. This feels like a gentle scent from another era. It has a creamy character which is strong, yet unintrusive. This doesn't feel like a projection monster, but if you were to hug the woman wearing it, you'd be comforted by her scent. She's sophisticated, but not uppity. She's a down to earth woman of class and substance. This reminds me a lot of Chanel No 5, but with a softer touch. Wearing this, I feel very feminine.

    I'm really not any good at specific notes, so I think I'll leave that to those in the know and just give my impressions of how it wears. Hope that is ok.

    ETA: I'd definitely wear this fragrance if I had it, though I'm not sure if I love it enough to go out and find it. I do like that it's different from anything else I have. The drydown ended up being such a sweet floral that it was hard to resist sniffing again and again.
    Last edited by danieq; 11th January 2014 at 01:21 AM.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    These are vintage samples, danieq. The Antilope and Cassandra are pre: UPC codes in the packages, and the Zibeline bottle design resembles a Weil I had new in the early 80s. Impressions are just as important as notes, and I enjoyed you observations. I will be interested in how you connect Antiope, Cassandra and Zibeline, and then whether you sense a connection between the Miss Balmain samples and Cassandra. Mostly, just enjoy. Weil of old had a way with animalics; I have yet to smell its particular qualities in anything modern.
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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Cassandra -- Opening reads very animalic, a bit of leather perhaps. I see White Tiger Skin, but not quite a urine note. The opening has b*&%h written all over it to my nose, from the 80's! And there is something that makes me think cellophane dancing about in there. As it continues, I feel like I'm in the woods, the scent reminds me of spent flower hulls, dried and blowing in the wind. It's crackly, if that makes any sense. It says I need to sit up and take notice. This strikes me as a power scent, NOT the girl next door. I can see this being worn by a savvy business woman in a suit making things happen in the skyscrapers of Manhattan. I think a man could wear this scent as well, it's not overtly feminine, but would take on the character of the wearer. This has a solvent, resinous feel to it. I have to say it smells very familiar in a certain way, but I can't quite place how. Ultimately, it feels like chemicals to me. Not something I'd wear, but it is interesting.

    Thanks for the reminder about vintages Jujy54!

  58. #58

    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    So glad you got your package, danieq. Thanks for your impressions.
    "Only by pride cometh contention: but with the well advised is wisdom." "It is honorable for a man to stop striving, Since any fool can start a quarrel." Proverbs.

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    danieq, speaking of the "b-word", that must be the link I find to my version of Miss Balmain, which I summed up as the epitome of the old saw "nice girls go to Heaven; bad girls go everywhere!"; I find Miss B by turns ladylike and badass. Miss B and Cassandra are both the work of female perfumers, Germaine Cellier and Jacqueline Fraysse, respectively. Cassandra precedes Cellier's work by nearly a decade.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: Sample pass: Weil Cassandra and more/update: The sniff is on!

    Jujy, would you be willing to post a photo of the Weil's this we are testing? Oh, and where did you find the little vials. I haven't come across these before. So cute.... .... and effective!

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