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  1. #1

    Default Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Iso E Super is widely used today (Encre Noir, Terre D'Hermes, Montal Aoud Lime etc) just like Calone was abused over the last couple decade (Aqua di GIo, Cool Water).

    What other super chemical thingy molecules are out there?

    What other fragrances rely heavily on such aromachemicals?
    Keep Smelling Good
    ANDREW

  2. #2

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    In "men's" scents, the "fresh" molecule, dihydromyrcenol , and the "woody/amber" base note, which you can read about here:

    http://thefrenchexit.blogspot.com/20...mber-that.html

    And of course there is an oldie, Hedione.

    UDPATE: Let's not forget "laundry musks," which you can smell when you walk down certain aisles in supermarkets.
    Last edited by Bigsly; 20th November 2013 at 03:53 AM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    I thought you were asking about a perfume containing both... stuff from hell...

    Another modern molecule is ambrox (or ambroxan, never understood the difference), another powerful synthetic thing. see perfumeshrine's description
    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/20...nation-on.html

    cacio

  4. #4
    Super Member Petrichor's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    I don't know; I think there are trends for synthetics ever since the beginning of modern perfumery. Coumarin was synthesized and used very early on (late 19th and early 20th centuries). Heliotropin (almond-floral) came into use around the same time in stuff like Apres L'Ondee. People always talk about the aldehyde overload in Chanel No. 5, etc. I think those some of the earliest examples of the popular molecules/compounds you're asking about (coumarin, heliotropin, aldehydes)--and they're all still widely used today too.

    - - - Updated - - -

    +1 for ambroxan too. My understanding that Ambrox/Ambroxan are just used by different aromachemical corporations to name the same molecule. I sort of like the smell of pure ambroxan--it comes in crystalline form (synthesized from clary sage), and is then diluted. Somebody may know more than me, but the dry down of a few Creeds (I'm thinking particularly of Aventus) has a big ambroxan note. Smells good, even if it's entirely synthetic.
    Check out my personal blog: http://stayathomedadfindsacologne.com

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  5. #5

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrewthecologneguy View Post
    What other super chemical thingy molecules are out there?

    What other fragrances rely heavily on such aromachemicals?
    There are thousands of aroma chemicals in circulation that are used in all kinds of products from detergent to perfume. As for what other fragrances rely on aroma chemicals, you'd hard pressed to find any that don't. Outside of the all-natural lines, aroma chemicals are the norm and have been around for more than a century (Jicky was using Vanillin in 1889).

    Iso E Super is nothing new. Although it's widely used today (for good reason -- it's an excellent fixative), its heyday was the 1980s.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    I <3 isobutyl quinoline.

    Behemoth cut a slice of pineapple, salted it, peppered it, ate it, and then tossed off a second glass of alcohol so dashingly that everyone applauded.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    ...Iso E Super is nothing new. Although it's widely used today (for good reason -- it's an excellent fixative), its heyday was the 1980s.
    I think you got your era wrong there !

  8. #8

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    I think you got your era wrong there !
    Heyday's the wrong term, but in the late '80s-mid '90s especially (Fahrenheit, for example), it was used heavily. I attended an industry lecture at IAO a few months back on the history of aroma chemicals, and there was a run through of all the scents that were using/abusing it at the time. Pretty eye opening!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    The following is taken from the site, http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/20...lts-geza.html:

    "Here is a table of Top Ten Fragrances with Regard to Their Content in Iso E Super
    No., Fragrance Name (Company, launch year), Iso E Super
    [NB. the percentage is in regards to compound, not diluted ready to use product]

    1 Molecule 01 (escentric molecules, 2005) 100%
    2 Perles de Lalique (Lalique, 2007) 80%
    3 Poivre Samarcande (Herme`s, 2004) 71%
    4 Escentric 01 (escentric molecules, 2005) 65%
    5 Terre d'Hermes (Hermes, 2006) 55%
    6 Incense Kyoto (comme des garcons, 2002) 55%
    7 Incense Jaisalmer (comme des garcons, 2002) 51%
    8 Fierce for Men (Abercrombie & Fitch, 2002) 48%
    9 Kenzo Air (Kenzo, 2003) 48%
    10 Encre noire (Lalique, 2006) 45%"

    So, the "heyday" was clearly some time in the 2002-2007 period.
    Last edited by Bigsly; 20th November 2013 at 03:56 PM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    There are thousands of aroma chemicals in circulation that are used in all kinds of products from detergent to perfume. As for what other fragrances rely on aroma chemicals, you'd hard pressed to find any that don't. Outside of the all-natural lines, aroma chemicals are the norm and have been around for more than a century (Jicky was using Vanillin in 1889).

    Iso E Super is nothing new.
    ... and that pretty much sums things up nicely.
    Last edited by drseid; 20th November 2013 at 05:21 PM.
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4) Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6) Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)

  11. #11

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Tresor 1990
    Feminite du Bois 1992
    Fahrenheit 1988

    IFF applied for the Iso E Super trademark in 1984, it didn't take 20 years to make it into fragrances.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by maricle View Post
    Tresor 1990
    Feminite du Bois 1992
    Fahrenheit 1988

    IFF applied for the Iso E Super trademark in 1984, it didn't take 20 years to make it into fragrances.
    The issue is "heyday," not when a few scents used it. Two you listed were marketed to women, and are not popular among male BN members, from what I can tell. Fahrenheit is indeed popular and was about 25% supposedly, but is a very polarizing scent. I can't stand it, yet I can't think of another "men's" scent from that period I find so offensive. By contrast, there are plenty of fougeres from that period, and I generally just find them too boring. I can't stand Terre d'Hermes, Declaration, and Encre Noire, for example, and it seems like it's due to the iso e super content. A small amount might not offend, and everyone has their own sensitivity thresholds, but to call the 80s the heyday of "men's" scents with large amounts of iso e super is the "poster child" for misleading statements, IMO.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Calone was around since 1966, and was used in minute quantities for may years. It was marketed as a booster to be used only as a 10.0% or even 1.0%b solution. However, in 1990 New West for Women (the first female Aramis fragrance) was launched with a huge overdose of Calone. The rest is history.

    Iso E Super was used by IFF since 1973. The original Chloe fragrance (Tuberose and Orange Flower) contained iso E Super. I would have said it was used extensively from then on, until fairly recently. I remember a presentation made by IFF in the late 70s, early 80s, promoting the stuff. I think it has now been overtaken by the even stronger woody amber chemicals such as Ambrocenide.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    OK, but I don't think the list helps with that too much either, with the fem frags and the "niche" Escentrics not being highly represented in numbers sold next to something like a calone bomb. Fierce would probably be the only thing close to a "heyday" indicator, with TdH following up.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Lots of great info!
    Thank you fellow Basenoters. I have some exploring to do with Ambroxan and Ambrocenide.
    Keep Smelling Good
    ANDREW

  16. #16

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrewthecologneguy View Post
    Lots of great info!
    Thank you fellow Basenoters. I have some exploring to do with Ambroxan and Ambrocenide.
    You're welcome! Ambroxan's a fun one, too -- intensely powerful, and is the sole chemical in Molecule 02. In fact, Molecule 01 and 02 were created, in part, as a sort of tribute to these chemicals that have played key roles in perfumery throughout the past few decades. It was an interesting choice for Geza to showcase them in such a way, and given their prominence and legacy within the industry, quite apt. I think I posted some notes somewhere on the site (could be lost in the Huddler-sphere right now) from that lecture that located chemicals within certain time periods. I'll see if I can dig it up as their respective histories were fascinating—especially given the way that some of these scents have transformed since their inception and especially the way they are used today.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Iso E Super and Calone...what fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    ...especially the way they are used today.
    This is a key point, so don't think that just because a scent contains some molecule it will have the same effect of another one that has a huge amount of that molecule. For example, the press release for Red for Men included this statement:

    "A blend of 551 ingredients, including 35 naturals, the scent is a woody fougere created by Givaudan. A new note, called Sequoia -- after the giant Redwood trees in northern California -- is meant to give the scent woody freshness..."

    So, they could have used a lot of ingredients in very small amounts but a huge amount of one (or a small number), or they could have created more of a blend; unless you try it you can't tell, though reading reviews may help to some degree.

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