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  1. #1
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    Default A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Hello, BNers and happy December. In the on-going saga of the education of my nose, I ordered the Caron samples available on LuckyScent. Then I looked up the house ... reading the history now.
    Caron.jpg
    Caron is famous for its Baccarat crystal perfume fountains. My goodness, whatever happened to the founder, Ernest Daltroff? Oh, he fled the Nazis and came to the U.S. in 1939 then died two years later! What a heartbreak it must have been to leave his life behind. Ah, his muse and unspoken love, Félicie Wanpouille remained and continued his work. Then two more owners ... she married one. Now Caron's CEO is Patrick Alès, grandson of the designer of Yardley Lavendar and son of the creator of Lanvin's Arpège. Nope, that's wrong, it's Richard Fraysse, their nose for 30 years, who is the son and grandson of famous noses. His son, William, has joined Caron. Daltroff had a passion for roses and Patrick Alès has created one of the finest rose gardens in the Val de Loire. What a story! Now I remember I've encountered Caron in two masterpieces, Acaciosa and Lady Caron, sampled during my Jasmine Sniff-Fest. Both are works of art! What delights will I find now?

    Accord 119 Parfum OMG! Are they all masterpieces? What is this beauty? My mind turns off when my nose falls in love. I know there's Jasmine and other vaguely familiar notes I can't yet identify. There's a slightly musky/woody base, but so well done it simply doesn't announce itself, just supports the floral glory. Looking it up. Top: Blackcurrant and Egyptian Jasmine. Mid: patchouli, blackberry and black pepper. Shucks. I love blackcurrant and blackberry jams! Should have been able to identify those. Base: vanilla, heliotrope, musk and amber. My goodness, do these people know what to do with ingredients. Let's see, what's heliotrope? My perfumery kit to the rescue. Smells a bit like marshmallows? In my Caron discovery, Accord 119 is absolutely masterpiece number 3.

    Bellodgia EDP Oh, wow! Sultry wonder, this! Only now am I smelling great perfumes? (Okay, except for vintage Mitsouko EdC; maybe some others). Good gracious! This perfume makes me want to get on a plane, fly to Paris, find the Bellodgia crystal fountain, turn it on and pour it all over me! Did Daltroff create this? Hold on...I'm off to buy right now. Whaaat?! It's sold OUT on LuckyScent. Oh, no...oh, no...okay, I found the EdT and put myself on LuckyScent's waiting list for the EdP. What's IN this stuff? Carnation, sandalwood, vanilla? That can't be all. I don't even LIKE carnation. OMG, I'm going to be homeless by the time I finish this sniff-fest, aren't I? Just kidding (I think). And here's the thing. This was inspired by a little fishing hamlet on Lake Como called Bellagio (pearl of the lake), a town that also imspired me. I was on my way there when I was last in Milan. By hapless misadventure, I broke my darned foot. I am fully consoled by this perfume! Calling local stores to see if they have the EdP. Back later.

    (I know I'm going mad, but it's tremendous fun)

    - - - Updated - - -

    Okay, one more.

    Delire de Roses, EDP
    In the bottle, it's divine. On my skin, it's not. There's something a bit too animalic or maybe green? Looking it up. Must be the rose bush leaves. Imgredients: Blended rose petals, lotus flower, lily of the valley, rose bush leaves, jasmine, lychee. Though this perfume's not for me (thank goodness), it's still in a league by itself, like the other Carons.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I can't get my mind on anything else! Back to sniffing Carons.

    En Avion Parfum EdP In love, love, love. What perfumes! I smell Neroli and something else, maybe Jasmine. Oh, oh, oh! Looking it up. Created in 1932. Daldoff's homage to women in flight: Neroli, spicy orange accord, jasmime, opoponax. It joins the buy list!

    [Coffee Beans]

    Farnesiana.
    Not for me. Too green. Ingredients: Mimosa, sandalwood, hay

    French Cancan. Not for me. It's a bit skanky. You can almost smell what's under those petticoats. As skank goes, though, I'm sure it's a masterpiece. Jasmine, lilac, violet, lily of the valley, rose, orange blossom, patchouli, iris, sandalwood, amber and oakmoss

    Montaigne. I smell Mimosa. It's pretty okay. On my skin it turns into magic, vaguely reminiscent of vintage Mitsouko. Ingredients: Coriander, Mimosa, Vanilla. I can resist, but if I run out of Mitsouko, I'll buy this. Still smelling. OTOH, maybe I have to have it.

    Muguet du Bonheur
    . Lily of the valley, lilac, jasmine and pear magnolia. Musk and heliotrope in the base. Pleasant floral that doesn't compel me to buy.

    Poivre. Pepper is what it is. Nicely done, too: Pepper, clove, geranium rose base, jasmine, tuberose, carnation bouquet. But like grapefruit, it's not something I want to smell like.

    [Coffee Beans]
    [Coffee Beans]
    [Coffee Beans]

    Pour Une Femme. Instant stank, or is it skank? In either case, not something I want to smell like in public. Just personal preference. Many a guy would probably follow this scent. Caron just may have bottled female pheromones. Per luckyscent: mandarin and orange blossom blend in with the musk, amber, vetyver, and sandalwood base.

    [Coffee Beans]

    Tabac blond
    . Nice, bright. If blond hair has a scent, this is it. It's leather, iris, cedar. Not for me, but awfully good.

    [Coffee Beans]

    Tubereuse. Ah, now I recognize the scent. A sweetish ultra-floral. If I liked tuberose, I'd buy this. It's turberose with "a hint of freesia and jasmine accentuated by a touch of acidity." Nicely done, just not for me.

    Thank goodness I've managed to get through Caron with only two new passions, En Avion and Belladgio, and three possible loves: Accord 119, Acaciosa, and Lady Caron. Wondering if that's all the Carons for women, or unisex. If not, I'll have to get samples!
    Last edited by ScentFan; 1st December 2013 at 08:08 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Thanks goodness I've managed to get through Caron with only two new passions...
    Another great post, ScentFan! The question is, will you be able to get through vintage Caron equally unscathed?

    Also, some of the "masculine" Carons aren't quite beyond the pale either (and they have survived reformulation comparatively better IMO) - Pour Un Homme, for instance, is a quite delicate balance (especially in its vintage incarnations) of lavender, vanilla and amber.

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by rowan- View Post
    Another great post, ScentFan! The question is, will you be able to get through vintage Caron equally unscathed?

    Also, some of the "masculine" Carons aren't quite beyond the pale either (and they have survived reformulation comparatively better IMO) - Pour Un Homme, for instance, is a quite delicate balance (especially in its vintage incarnations) of lavender, vanilla and amber.
    rowan, I seriously doubt it. As for men's fragrances, I have managed to infect my other half with perfume madness and he is now ordering men's samples like crazy, pausing only to buy me En Avion. I see I'm just going to have to make a new budget for 2014 that includes lots and lots of scent. More Caron samples are on the way!
    Last edited by ScentFan; 2nd December 2013 at 06:13 AM.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    I seem to have an affinity for Caron. Cherished especially are my vintage Infini extrait and new Acaciosa extrait. Infini is "dirty aldehyde", and Acaciosa is a bright sweet-and-sour honeyed floral. I love En Avion, too. Agree with rowan-, the vintage Carons will get to you.

    ScentFan, I believe you will enjoy the Weil pass-around, as several members of the Fraysse family created the three I'm sending: Claude created Zibeline, his daughter Jacqueline, Cassandra, and his son Hubert, Antilope.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Great impressions as usual!

    If you look around in BN, you'll see that Caron reformulations by Fraysse are highly controversial. first of all, do not get edp/edt unless you verify them. there is a big difference between parfum and edp in Caron, and edp/edt are typically pale shades of their former selves, and usually unworthy. Typically, Fraysse deleted the interesting bits and substituted them with soapy neroli or soapy rose (Fraysse seems to love soap).

    Extraits are better, but they are debated too. I'll let our own in-house Caron expert Larimar chime in. In any case, you can order extraits through the US caron store, which is at Phytouniverse in NYC.

    cacio

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    I seem to have an affinity for Caron. Cherished especially are my vintage Infini extrait and new Acaciosa extrait. Infini is "dirty aldehyde", and Acaciosa is a bright sweet-and-sour honeyed floral. I love En Avion, too. Agree with rowan-, the vintage Carons will get to you.

    ScentFan, I believe you will enjoy the Weil pass-around, as several members of the Fraysse family created the three I'm sending: Claude created Zibeline, his daughter Jacqueline, Cassandra, and his son Hubert, Antilope.
    I eagerly await them, jujy54. Thanks, again, for including me.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Great impressions as usual!

    If you look around in BN, you'll see that Caron reformulations by Fraysse are highly controversial. first of all, do not get edp/edt unless you verify them. there is a big difference between parfum and edp in Caron, and edp/edt are typically pale shades of their former selves, and usually unworthy. Typically, Fraysse deleted the interesting bits and substituted them with soapy neroli or soapy rose (Fraysse seems to love soap).

    Extraits are better, but they are debated too. I'll let our own in-house Caron expert Larimar chime in. In any case, you can order extraits through the US caron store, which is at Phytouniverse in NYC.

    cacio
    Many thanks, cacio, for the tips. I purchased a Bellodgia edt today and an extrait. Sounds like I may regret one, but it's all to the good. I will look for the Caron threads. When it comes to controversy, I think I'm lucky to have such an idiosyncratic nose that pretty much instantly loves or hates with abandon, or is indifferent to, all it smells. It will see me through.

    - - - Updated - - -

    p.s. Cacio, by verify, what do you mean?

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    PhytoUniverse throws in samples when you order (:
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    More more more! Keep posting, I love reading about Caron fragrances. There is ONE STORE where I live that carries maybe 3 of Caron's fragrances. No samplers.
    Looking for THE femme fatale scent. If you think there is something I should smell please PM me!

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Great post! But where's Nuit de Noel?

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    I have only experienced one in its fullness, N'Aimez Que Moi and what an incredible beauty it is! I urge you to acquire a sample. It has the most heavenly dry-down imagined!

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    By verify I mean verify that said edp/edt smells like the sample you tried (ie if you smelled vintage, or an extrait).

    I have not smelled current bellodgia edt. I have a few drops of vintage extrait. The top is lost, but the drydown smells glorious, as you say, a supercreamy carnation. I have some vintage edc and, while it doesn't smell as good as the extrait,it's still very good and does preserve the creamy carnation-ness, though in a simplified form. Tania Sanchez, who hates current Carons, said in the turin-sanchez book that the current bellodgia edt has a pine top and the lamentable Fraysse base (soapy rose). She doesn't review extraits, usually.

    cacio

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Thanks for the recommendations, Kagey and danieq. On the way are these samples

    Flueur de Rocaille, EdT
    L'Anarchiste, EdT
    N'Aimez Que Moi, parfum extrait
    Narcisse Noir, EdT
    Noctures, EdT
    Nuit de Noel, EdT
    Parfum Sacre, EdP
    Secret Oud, EdP

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by VintagePoison View Post
    More more more! Keep posting, I love reading about Caron fragrances. There is ONE STORE where I live that carries maybe 3 of Caron's fragrances. No samplers.
    Couldn't stop if I tried.

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    By verify I mean verify that said edp/edt smells like the sample you tried (ie if you smelled vintage, or an extrait).

    I have not smelled current bellodgia edt. I have a few drops of vintage extrait. The top is lost, but the drydown smells glorious, as you say, a supercreamy carnation. I have some vintage edc and, while it doesn't smell as good as the extrait,it's still very good and does preserve the creamy carnation-ness, though in a simplified form. Tania Sanchez, who hates current Carons, said in the turin-sanchez book that the current bellodgia edt has a pine top and the lamentable Fraysse base (soapy rose). She doesn't review extraits, usually.

    cacio
    Okay, got you. Thanks. What I tried was the EdP. Extrait and EdT are on the way. Depending on whether they work, I may buy a modern EdP since that's what I tested. Haven't read the A-Z yet, just the little black book. Kind of glad since she might have discouraged me from trying Carons. I guess I smell the soap. Very excited to discover what the vintage extrait smells like.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    PhytoUniverse throws in samples when you order (:
    I don't see a place to order Carons on their website. Must we phone orders in?

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    ScentFan, I did indeed phone PhytoUniverse, so, perhaps, yes, one must. Diane will take care of you; she's a great SA. Two years ago Caron was still at Bergdorf Goodman, including the urns.

    cacio, as prominently as the Fraysses figure into the history of Weil, did you detect the soapy rose thing in the vintage Weils I passed around? I didn't, other than possibly in Antilope, tho I was inclined to call Antilope lotion-y, and it had a sandalwood underpinning after an anisic start that was most fetching.
    Last edited by jujy54; 2nd December 2013 at 09:36 PM. Reason: spellling!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    I didn't in the vintage Weils. But I think TS refers to the modern reformulations of Carons, not to the Fraysse family in general.If I remember correctly, frags of the old Fraysses receive good grades - though I don't remember specifically.

    cacio

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    You would have dropped down dead with the originals

    Farnesiana used to be fantastic for instance

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    It occurs to me that only now, sniffing Carons, do I realize what a drydown really is. I can actually smell these developing on my skin and it's a quite alive and remarkable progression, an experience in itself. My favorite, Bellodgia, the modern EdP (not sure if it's the white or purple label), is great at each stage, but incredibly beautiful when it settles. A couple of hours later and it's almost gone though.

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    I have just caught up with your lovely thread Scentfan. I'm looking forward to reading about the next round!

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Interesting! Thanks for posting. I have to put in a good word for 'French Can Can'. At least, I think my French bottles are much nicer. The sample I had In NYC smelled of rotten flowers. Then I heard about the difference in alcohol between The US exports and the French. French is potable. US is poisonous wood alcohol. It is harsh while the French is delicious; creamy. Huge change in this scent, too. Mine smells of heliotrope, rose, violet, bergamot and oak moss.


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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Also, if you are in the market for 'Tabac Blond' do yourself a favor and order it from the Parisian Boutique. I get mine from the shopper on EBay.


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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Interesting! Thanks for posting. I have to put in a good word for 'French Can Can'. At least, I think my French bottles are much nicer. The sample I had In NYC smelled of rotten flowers. Then I heard about the difference in alcohol between The US exports and the French. French is potable. US is poisonous wood alcohol. It is harsh while the French is delicious; creamy. Huge change in this scent, too. Mine smells of heliotrope, rose, violet, bergamot and oak moss.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yes, it smelled like rotten flowers! Thanks. I'll look for the French.

    - - - Updated - - -

    N'Aime Que Moi Parfum Extrait. It was hiding in my sample box, here goes ....not sure I love, love it but I certainly salute it. Another one with a stunning drydown. So hard to pick out individual notes in these great perfumes. Guessing green (vetiver?), a strong floral and something that tickles my nose...a wood (cedar?) or is it spice? Can't guess, looking it up: Oh, it's oak moss, violet, rose. The Caron page says amber. Fragrantica shows Bulgarian rose, violet, lilac. Mid: Iris, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood. Base: oakmoss, musk, amber, vanilla. That sounds more like it. The violet and lilac masked the rose for me. It smells like it belongs with Shalimar and Nahema. A well-done oriental. The violet predominates, though, and it's not my favorite scent and my nose twitched on the vetiver and cedar. It's not for me, but once again, hat off.

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    Basenotes Member Cyn's Avatar
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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Is Parisian Boutique a seller on Ebay? I can't seem to find it.
    “Perfume is like cocktails without the hangover, like chocolate without the calories, like an affair without tears, like a vacation from which you never have to come back.”
    ― Marian Bendeth“

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Sorry, Here's the link: http://stores.ebay.com/Shop-France-Inc?_rdc=1 It's called ShopFranceinc She goes there frequently (every other month or so) and you email your order. She mails the juice to you. Shipping is very reasonable. I've used her for a few years now. Just love this service! The reason I didn't say is because I've said it many times before. Also, Serge Lutens bell jars and Diptyque and all the other Parisian shops!
    Last edited by kumquat; 3rd December 2013 at 03:22 PM.

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Thanks, so much for your quick response!
    “Perfume is like cocktails without the hangover, like chocolate without the calories, like an affair without tears, like a vacation from which you never have to come back.”
    ― Marian Bendeth“

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Of course! Happy to do it. I'd be curious to hear back if any of you get some from France; what you think of it.


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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Caron Sniff-Fest (conclusion)

    The remaining samples arrived and I've quickly sniffed through them. My conclusion is there's no such thing as a bad Caron. The fragrances are, in general, sophisticated and alluring. None bother my nose. I've acquired EdP's of En Avion and Accord 119, am wearing one now and wore the other yesterday. I don't know if the problem is that these were made for the USA market vs the French, but they both are behaving differently on my skin than the samples. The dry down is less mesmerizing and the scent quickly subsides. If I put my hand to my nose, I can still almost smell Accord 119 as much as 3-4 hours later, but I certainly wouldn't call these sillage monsters or long lasting. For me, this is a new consideration. How obtain the performance of the samples? Now to specifics. These first three are my favorites of this bunch.

    Nuit de Noel. (Oriental Floral) I close my eyes on this beauty, reminiscent of bygone times, yet so masterful it doesn't feel old. Caron introduced it in 1922 four years after the end of WWI, one of the most horrific events in human history. It resulted in combined military and civilian casualties of about 37 million (17 mil deaths, 20 mil injuries). The world population was only 1.75 billion at the time! That meant one in every 100 people on earth died. Even more were seriously injured. Henry James called it, "The plunge of civilization into this abyss of blood and darkness..." Ernest Daltroff created magnificent fragrances in those post-war years, as if to celebrate slaughter's end and waft life back into the world with his perfumes. The name of this one translates to Christmas Night, a time of magic. Top notes: ylang-ylang rose and jasmine. Mid: sandalwood and oakmoss. Base: Musk and Amber. All on my list of favorite ingredients. Few perfumers can make them smell this good. Many of the flappers crowding dance floors wore this.

    Fleur de Rocaille. (Floral Aldehyde) Introduced in the 1930's, this one was inspired by Daltroff's muse, Félicie Wanpouille. The title implies a florid bouquet and that’s what I smell — springtime in a bottle done by those who know how to get the very best out of a flower. Can’t identify the actual flowers, except I think there’s some Jasmine, which my nose always likes. Otherwise, I’m guessing amber and musk and wood, a familiar combo to my nose, now. Let’s see if I’m right. From Fragrantica: "palisander, bergamot, gardenia and violet at the top; the heart of the perfume is inhabited with oriss root, jasmine, Narcissus, rose, carnation, lily-of-the-valley, ylang-ylang, lilac, mimosa and iris, whilst the base is warm thanks to amber, sandalwood, musk and cedar.” Wow, 100%! I think I’m getting the hang of this! It’s a beautiful floral and had I not smelled Bal a Versailles then a couple days ago layered my Zahd sample over Jeke (I know it's not done, but oh, oh!) -- were it not for those, I’d put this on my buy list.

    Nocturnes
    . (Floral Woody Musk) I’m assuming this is the new one introduced this year. It’s more modern, a bit heavier on the woods, lighter on the florals. It’s not a Mitsouko, but it’s in that camp. Top notes are orange, rose and neroli; middle notes are jasmine, tuberose and ylang-ylang; base notes are sandalwood, vetiver and musk. It could be classified as a modern chypre, but for the absence of resin and patchouli. Guess that’s why Fragrantica classifies it as it does. It’s nice, but I think my nose is getting used to these notes. It’s looking for something different now.

    Secret Oud. (Oriental Woody) Ask and you shall receive. This is a different kind of Caron. I’m tempted to say it’s a ladylike oud. The oud “stank” is definitely there, but can florals alone really balance and ennoble it? Let’s see what’s trying: Top note: saffron and green notes; mid: rose, spices, nard himalayan (jatamansi) and jasmine; base: oak moss, agarwood (oud), cedar and musk. Okay, if you say so, but the oud wins out which, in this case I don’t find terrific. It reminds me of a lady stumbling into the wrong bathroom and in surprise screaming, “Men, men!”

    Parfum Sacre. (Oriental Spicy). Is “sacre” perfume-speak for incense? Let’s see. Top: Cardamom, cinnamon, pepper, mimosa. Mid: Jasmine, rose, orange, clove. Base: Musk, Vanilla. Myrrh. Haven’t smelled it yet. Not sure I want to. Here goes. LOL! I spilled the whole thing on the floor. Gotta watch negative thinking. Luckily, some fell on the paper and on my hand. Hey, it’s not half bad. They didn’t overdo the spice. Would I wear it? Maybe. Yes, I might. It’s a bit exotic, but not jarring. Pretty nice. The Caron website says: the air is softly tinged by the fragrance of rose absolute, mixed with musk and myrrh. Good job.

    Narcisse Noir. (Oriental Floral). Ah, very nice! It’s somehow deeper and draws me in. It’s muskier. Top: African orange flower, narcissus. Mid: Jasmine, orange, rose. Base: vetiver, musk, sandalwood. It’s simultaneously bright, fresh, floral and woody. A really pleasing, even irressistible scent. I’d almost say there’s some spice, but it must be the vetiver or maybe narcissus. Not 100% sure what that flower smells like. The Caron website says it symbolizes Gloria Swanson in the movie, Sunset Boulevard, saying the words, “Black Narcissus.” Sounds right. She was Joseph Kennedy’s mistress for three years. Maybe this haunting perfume was why.

    All that leaves of the samples I have is L’Anarchiste, a men’s scent introduced in 2000 to “offer men of the modern world a breath of freedom.” To a woman’s ear, that sounds hilarious since men tend to own and run most everything, then and now. What men needed to be freed from, I can't guess. Ah well. Trying to have it both ways, Caron calls it an off-beat classic, an original classic, an innovation. Better smell it. Honestly? It smells a bit like Aventus with mustard. Okay, enough with irreverence! The site says the notes are neroli, woody, musk. Luckyscent says: Orange blossom, mint, gaiac wood, Indian sandalwood, bourbon, vetiver, cedar, musks. No mustard. Sniffing again. It’s actually well-balanced, while being bracing and appealing. Would I want to smell it on my guy? Not when AdP’s Colonia Intensa Oud is around, or Jeke. Those two have presence, heft, knock-you-off-your-feet power. They’re made for guys (and gals) who are beasts, and live life on their own terms. L’Anarchiste feels like it's worn by gentlemen to their … I don’t know … sports car events.

    I leave this Caron-sniff not only more informed, but with utter respect for a house that did so much and has held its position. If I ever meet Ernest Daltroff in the hereafter, I’m going to shake his hand for Bellodgia alone, must less the stable of fine scents he created or inspired. Next trip to Paris, I’m heading straight for Caron’s Baccarat Crystal Fountains.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 17th December 2013 at 07:25 PM.

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Ahem. Infini? (;
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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Nice reviews!

    Or et Noir?

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    I don't have an Or et Noir sample, docluv45, but I certainly have Infini. Thanks, jujy54 for sending it and the 2 jasmines. They got lost on my crowded desk. Must reorganize.

    Infini vintage extrait. (Floral Aldehyde) Well, I've absolutely got to find vintages of the Carons I like. There is no comparison between my Caron EdPs and this dream. I've learned Carons don't really have big top notes. They're more subtle. And, as I've said elsewhere, the drydown is an experience in itself as the scent unwinds. What am I smelling? Something that stops my mind and says, "Just sniff." Okay, trying to focus. Like most Carons, this is a complex, beautifully blended perfume. The top note has something fresh. I want to say bergamot, but I'm definitely not sure. Next comes a warm, almost milky note. Amber? And what are the florals? I see I need to get that other perfumery kit so I can teach my nose to recognize florals. Wild stab. Orange blossom? Probably not. All right, rose, maybe jasmine, but both hardly recognizable, if so, because there's so much else in here. If there's wood, it's sandalwood. Looking it up to see how wrong I am. Top: Jasmine (check), narcissus, lily of the valley, aldehydes. Mid: Iris, lilac, turberose, rose (check). Base: Vetiver, musk (I started to guess that), sandalwood (check), amber (check), tonka bean (probably the somewhat milky ephemeral note). IOW, they put the entire flower garden in Infini, (but not orange blossom or bergamot). Yes, sniffing again, I can see there's no citrus. It's the florals and the aldehydes that make the opening bright. Infini was introduced in 1970 ... no, wait. That's a reformulation. Daltroff created it in 1912. So what I'm sniffing may not have the above notes? Searching further, I think this is from the 70's, because a BN review says the original has a "rough, smoky/learthery" accord. I don't detect that here. At least not compared to the heavily smoky/leather types I've sniffed like Le Smoking by DHS Diaghilev.

    Just smelled the paper strip and it's completely different than the scent on my skin. It's a little smoky/leathy all right. On my skin that almost disappears.

    Conclusion. I've learned from this Caron sniff that it's not aldehydes making me sneeze -- at least not the kind Caron uses. I do think it's a synthetic, though -- something powdery -- hope to isolate it as I continue.

    Thanks, jujy, again for the samples.

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Hi, SF,

    the infini extrait I sent is from the geometric infinity shaped bottle, which re: Perfume Intelligence places it somewhere from 1970 through whenever that bottle stopped being produced. I got it in the sealed in cellophane box which lacked a UPC code; this suggests an earlier date in that range. Sandalwood mos'def. I also get something animal, maybe civet or its synthetic stand-in. Here's a pic of the bottle before I broke the ribbon seal:

    P1030778.jpg
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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    I finally got in touch with Suzan and am ordering. She will be in France the early part of 2014. I am super excited! I will keep you posted!
    “Perfume is like cocktails without the hangover, like chocolate without the calories, like an affair without tears, like a vacation from which you never have to come back.”
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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Oh, that's exciting! Which one do you plan to try, if I could ask (curious )?


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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    The Tabac Blond pure purfume. Which ones have you tried?
    “Perfume is like cocktails without the hangover, like chocolate without the calories, like an affair without tears, like a vacation from which you never have to come back.”
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    Default A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Oh, you will love it, I think. That's the first one I bought. I am in love with French Can Can, it is great if you like an ambery floral. I also have a flacon of En Avion. It is all leather and neroli on a carnation base. Some really like Acasiosa, but that one was too sour for my taste. A tart pineapple. I already have vintage Nocturnes, Nuit de Noel, L'Infini & Narcisse Noir, ​all beautiful, of course.

    I forgot Poivre, a spicy carnation. I got a flacon of parfum on EBay. Quite nice. Origin unknown.
    Last edited by kumquat; 23rd December 2013 at 09:02 PM.

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    You have no idea how much I want to try French Can Can and now I am lusting after En Avion. Suzan told me that once you purchase a flacon, it costs less to refill it. Thank you so much for the info. I cannot wait to try the Tabac Blond!
    “Perfume is like cocktails without the hangover, like chocolate without the calories, like an affair without tears, like a vacation from which you never have to come back.”
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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Hi, kumquat. Trying to sort out how to proceed on the Caron front. I now have FBs of Accord 119 EdP, En Avion EdP, Nocturnes EdT and Bellodgia EdT, but I'm disappointed in the projection and longevity. Of course, these are the USA versions. Do you think the French versions are markedly better in these respects? I'm also interested in Nuit de Noel and Narcisse Noir. If I order from Phytouniverse would I be getting the USA versions or the French? jujy54, also, what's your experience? My fella's interested in L'Anarchiste and we're trying to decide how to buy in the future. Perhaps I should be seeking extraits? I read back and saw cacio said the edp/edts were pale shades of the extraits. [An extrait is the same as a parfum for Caron?]

    Didn't have a chance to consider this because my other half bought as soon as I mentioned liking a perfume. [Not a bad trait in a guy, true!]. However, now we're doubtful about USA Carons.




    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Oh, you will love it, I think. That's the first one I bought. I am in love with French Can Can, it is great if you like an ambery floral. I also have a flacon of En Avion. It is all leather and neroli on a carnation base. Some really like Acasiosa, but that one was too sour for my taste. A tart pineapple. I already have vintage Nocturnes, Nuit de Noel, L'Infini & Narcisse Noir, ​all beautiful, of course.

    I forgot Poivre, a spicy carnation. I got a flacon of parfum on EBay. Quite nice. Origin unknown.

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Extrait = parfum (or perfume) in fragrance talk.
    My sole phytouniverse purchase is the Acaciosa extrait, in the splash (dab, really!) bottle. It is exactly as the sample Larimar sent me, which would be the European, and it says France on the bottle. The Infini is vintage extrait.

    I don't know what to say about sillage/projection, altho generally it's the extraits that stay closer to the skin as they have less alcohol, which is, of course, volatile. Not sure I buy the supposed USA v French version disparities. IIRC, Caron has batch variation issues, not uncommon when natural absolutes are used. otoh, you have a finely tuned nose, moreso than I.
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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Hi, kumquat. Trying to sort out how to proceed on the Caron front. I now have FBs of Accord 119 EdP, En Avion EdP, Nocturnes EdT and Bellodgia EdT, but I'm disappointed in the projection and longevity. Of course, these are the USA versions. Do you think the French versions are markedly better in these respects? I'm also interested in Nuit de Noel and Narcisse Noir. If I order from Phytouniverse would I be getting the USA versions or the French? jujy54, also, what's your experience? My fella's interested in L'Anarchiste and we're trying to decide how to buy in the future. Perhaps I should be seeking extraits? I read back and saw cacio said the edp/edts were pale shades of the extraits. [An extrait is the same as a parfum for Caron?]

    Didn't have a chance to consider this because my other half bought as soon as I mentioned liking a perfume. [Not a bad trait in a guy, true!]. However, now we're doubtful about USA Carons.
    I have Belodgia in vintage parfum (Ebay) there seems to be a lot of it around. If you get some unopened, it is really lovely, although it's a little fussy for my taste. (You have to REALLY like sweet carnations) the En Avion - parfum from France (divine!), Nocturnes is vintage parfum, too.

    I dont have have any info on PhytoUniverse​, sorry. I will say that I like getting stuff from Paris because it comes directly from the urns in the boutique. The only reason I'm passing this information on is because a long time ago someone here on BN told me about it and I have enjoyed it ever since. I thought you all might like to know.

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    Bergdorf Goodman's erstwhile Caron counter had the urns, and yes, per their website, Phyto Universe has the urns. I bought by phone, and the SA, Diane, is helpful and pleasant.
    Last edited by jujy54; 28th December 2013 at 09:42 PM.
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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    According to the website, PhytoUniverse do have 'Baccarat Fountains' (urns), amongst other things - the pop-up disappears before a screen shot is done, but it's mentioned under the 'Boutiques' tab.
    http://www.phytouniverse.com/index.html
    Last edited by lpp; 28th December 2013 at 10:04 PM.

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    I looked up PhytoUniverse and they appear to be a New York company.

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    Default Re: A Caron Sniff-Fest

    So U.S. members have the choice of purchasing 'urn' fragrances directly from a U.S. source - thanks for the info., jujy54!
    Last edited by lpp; 29th December 2013 at 08:57 AM.

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