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  1. #151
    Basenotes Junkie SirNosebleed's Avatar
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    His latest two reviews are up, and they are extremely entertaining to read. Incredibly well written.

  2. #152

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    Right, but I do have one big criticism of the book, which is that it should have been called "The Tongue in Cheek Guide" or "A Whimsical Guide," or else it should have been more rigorous and consistent. That said, it has plenty of value, especially to the newbie (assuming he or she doesn't "take it as gospel"), and I don't see the need for emotional invective. Moreover, there are many imprecise elements involved, and we often see that online, such as reviews that claim a scent is a fougere even though there's no lavender or coumarin in it! If a person says the scent possesses a "fougere vibe," is that acceptable? We don't have a Pope of Perfumery, so it seems that for the near future it's not reasonable to expect any one book to solve all the issues that arise in online discussions.
    For the kind of guide you want about more precise elements, I think you are looking for Michael Edwards' Fragrances of the World.

  3. #153

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    I think people may be forgetting the sheer breadth of reviewing over a thousand perfumes. Anyone who has written a review with some deliberate thought knows that it takes a little time. To wear, test, and write three a day would take a year. Who here could imagine doing three a day EVERY day for a year? Reviews aren't LT's main gig. He's always been more into the hard-core science academic side of things. Combine your day job with writing a book and I'm sure you could see the limitations....thus perfume strips, thus some short reviews. And until the general public gets caught up with the level of passion that most of us Basenoters have toward perfumes, I don't think too many people are going to be making the sort of living they want to be making as perfume reviewers. It's better than it ever was, but there's still a long way to go.
    Last edited by Indagnacious; 18th April 2014 at 09:18 PM.

  4. #154
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Such an amusing thread. The perfume world is so lucky to have Luca Turin around. Many great reviewers on various sites, including this one, use his words and ideas (Basenotes' own serpent used them to great effect), but, not surprisingly, the ones who use his words and ideas the most are the people who attack him. In the past his reviews may have been primarily directed toward the perfumers, and while Perfumes: The A-Z Guide is an intriguing blast for everyone open to it, notice the dedication page, where it says: "For the perfumers".

    I love these editorial reviews from the first book. I just hope there's another one coming. And in case you didn't realize it, anyone here is free to write their own book.

    I completely agree that the book is as "gripping as any thriller" and that
    "Turin confirms his right to be classed alongside Proust". This book is a hundred times more compelling and contains far more relevant information than any perfume book ever published. It's like the distance between a hawk from the moon. Nothing is even close, and for many reasons nothing probably ever will be.

    Perfumes: The A-Z Guide
    (Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez)

    Editorial reviews: (I wrote them out, so if there's a mistake it's mine)

    “Their work is, quite simply, ravishingly entertaining, and it passes the high test that the high test that their praise is even more compelling than their criticism...Its blend of technical and evocative writing is exemplary in the strict sense; people who write about smell and taste in any context should use it as an example.” John Lanchester, The New Yorker

    “Along with being witty and knowledgeable about the chemistry and culture of perfume, Sanchez and Turin are whizzes at conveying, through words, all that the nose knows.” -Style.com

    “With Turin, Sanchez developed one of the most distinctive voices in fragrance writing” -Elle

    “Entertaining and indeed encyclopedic.” -Forbes.com

    “Unfailingly entertaining...This will be a must have...Their passion for a few scents and their outrage at the others’ failings make for entry after entry of hilarious, catty comments interspersed with occasional erudite, eloquent disquisitions.” -Publishers Weekly (starred review)

    “Perfumes: The Guide shines a bright, revolving searchlight over an extensive, potentially limitless smell-scape, and offers much to contemplate, even to regret, and most importantly alerts you to the need to set aside some fairly solid prejudices ...[The authors have] produced a provocative and hugely entertaining book.” -The Times Literary Supplement

    “Turin and Sanchez offer some of the most stylish, erudite and hilarious criticism in any subject field.” -The Dallas Morning News

    “Far more addictive that it has any right to be.” -The Guardian (U.K.)

    “[A] magnificent book that could do for the perfume industry what the best guides do for wine...It opens the mind to the vivid intricacies of scent and is a cracking good read.” -The Daily Telegraph (U.K.)

    “Perfumes: The A-Z Guide is one of the best books I have ever read. It is dazzlingly good.” -India Knight, The Sunday Times (U.K.)

    “Dazzling insight abounds in Perfumes...shocks with originality.” -Maclean’s

    “Forget everything you have read about [scent] and grab a copy of Perfumes...a work as gripping as any thriller.” -Jan Moir, The Daily Mail (U.K.)

    “On one level this is a serious, instructive tome. On the other it is an addictive, dip-in-and-outable romp through some of the greatest and worst scents ever produced.” -Daily Express (U.K.)

    “There is a great tradition of olfactory literature, and in Perfumes Turin confirms his right to be classed alongside Proust or Patrick Suskind as a poet of smell.” -The Observer (U.K.)

    “No one can doubt that they’ve written a work of the highest criticism , one which elevates writing about perfume to the best sort of writing about wine or rock music.” -Philip Hensher, The Independent (U.K.)

    “They make it so entertaining, you don’t even have to like perfume to enjoy perfume to enjoy reading about it.” -The Denver Post

    “Compelling because it’s arrestingly honest, passionately poetic.” Grazia (Australia)

    “(My) favorite book of open-sky criticism this year.” - Dwight Garner, “Paper Cuts” (the New York Times blog)

    “[T]his bigoted, snarling, monomaniacal, subjective, triumphalist and quite magnificent book.” -Prospect (U.K.)

    “[N]othing less than an essential possession. Most books that are calles life-changing don’t make the least little difference to anybody whatsoever. In its own field, this one deserves the name.” - Evening Standard (U.K.)

    “I breathed in, rather than read, in one delighted gulp; opinionated, knowledgeable, sharply written, and surprisingly comprehensive, it’s a purely enjoyably book.” -Hilary Mantel


    ______________________



    Luca Turin's "Duftnotes" Articles 2003 - 2010
    - http://doublebasenotes.blogspot.com/


    It would also be great to see Octavian Coifan replace all the great articles he wrote on his blog. As knowledgeable about perfume as anyone ever has been and writes just as well. He removed 99% of what was there. There was a massive amount of it. http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/



    Last edited by pluran; 2nd May 2014 at 02:47 AM.

  5. #155

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Sure. Le Guide was brilliant. Besides, who ever expects to agree with critics all of the time? Movies? Check. I've seen some duds because I read good reviews. Restaurants? Check. Shoes? Them, too.

    The problem arises when readers' opinions don't match those of the reviewer. Some people feel ashamed, as if they might have misunderstood something that superior people understand. Other people are frustrated because critics got to tell the whole world something negative and affect sales, while supporters remain mute and ineffectual. Yet other people are angry when they trust reviews and spend their money, and their experiences don't live up to the hype.

    Like pluran said, though, everyone is free to write a book. Turin put in many years of research and work in order to reach the level of "expert." At least he knows more about his subject than most of the stars of reality TV. To me, the unfortunate aspect of today's public taste is that shock value sells entertainment media.

  6. #156

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    I fell down the perfume rabbit hole after purchasing a copy of 'The Guide'. Did I treat it as gospel initially? Probably - I didn't know much, and I sought out the things flagged out as good. As time went past, however, I found myself knowing what I liked and being better able to form my own views. I think Luca Turin has done a great service to the perfume community by getting newbies interested in the first place.
    Last edited by joshuaang; 25th April 2014 at 12:20 PM.
    Check out my perfume blog, The Smelly Vagabond: http://thesmellyvagabond.wordpress.com

  7. #157

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    I've just spent a few days in Vienna and couldn't avoid repeating to myself the sentence about the Ottoman Empire bringing administrative inefficiency and baggy trousers in areas that would otherwise have been irremediably German!
    (LT on Cuir Ottoman, a fragrance quite misreviewed by him, IMO. Love his writing- and Cuir Ottoman anyway!)
    "Your fragrance with a fume of iodine" L. Cohen

  8. #158
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by Indagnacious View Post
    I rather read a review by alaform or dead idol.


    No offense to the people you mentioned, but you're high. Both of you are high. You know, as in licking coconut skins and burning down trees high.
    pardon me, can anyone point me to where Darvant & Crew are? wanna help them with their....ummm....research
    improving olfactory environments one molecule at a time....

  9. #159
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Such an amusing thread. The perfume world is so lucky to have Luca Turin around. Many great reviewers on various sites, including this one, use his words and ideas (Basenotes' own serpent used them to great effect), but, not surprisingly, the ones who use his words and ideas the most are the people who attack him. In the past his reviews may have been primarily directed toward the perfumers, and while Perfumes: The A-Z Guide is an intriguing blast for everyone open to it, notice the dedication page, where it says: "For the perfumers".

    I love these editorial reviews from the first book. I just hope there's another one coming. And in case you didn't realize it, anyone here is free to write their own book.

    I completely agree that the book is as "gripping as any thriller" and that
    "Turin confirms his right to be classed alongside Proust". This book is a hundred times more compelling and contains far more relevant information than any perfume book ever published. It's like the distance between a hawk from the moon. Nothing is even close, and for many reasons nothing probably ever will be.

    Perfumes: The A-Z Guide
    (Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez)

    Editorial reviews: (I wrote them out, so if there's a mistake it's mine)

    “Their work is, quite simply, ravishingly entertaining, and it passes the high test that the high test that their praise is even more compelling than their criticism...Its blend of technical and evocative writing is exemplary in the strict sense; people who write about smell and taste in any context should use it as an example.” John Lanchester, The New Yorker

    “Along with being witty and knowledgeable about the chemistry and culture of perfume, Sanchez and Turin are whizzes at conveying, through words, all that the nose knows.” -Style.com

    “With Turin, Sanchez developed one of the most distinctive voices in fragrance writing” -Elle

    “Entertaining and indeed encyclopedic.” -Forbes.com

    “Unfailingly entertaining...This will be a must have...Their passion for a few scents and their outrage at the others’ failings make for entry after entry of hilarious, catty comments interspersed with occasional erudite, eloquent disquisitions.” -Publishers Weekly (starred review)

    “Perfumes: The Guide shines a bright, revolving searchlight over an extensive, potentially limitless smell-scape, and offers much to contemplate, even to regret, and most importantly alerts you to the need to set aside some fairly solid prejudices ...[The authors have] produced a provocative and hugely entertaining book.” -The Times Literary Supplement

    “Turin and Sanchez offer some of the most stylish, erudite and hilarious criticism in any subject field.” -The Dallas Morning News

    “Far more addictive that it has any right to be.” -The Guardian (U.K.)

    “[A] magnificent book that could do for the perfume industry what the best guides do for wine...It opens the mind to the vivid intricacies of scent and is a cracking good read.” -The Daily Telegraph (U.K.)

    “Perfumes: The A-Z Guide is one of the best books I have ever read. It is dazzlingly good.” -India Knight, The Sunday Times (U.K.)

    “Dazzling insight abounds in Perfumes...shocks with originality.” -Maclean’s

    “Forget everything you have read about [scent] and grab a copy of Perfumes...a work as gripping as any thriller.” -Jan Moir, The Daily Mail (U.K.)

    “On one level this is a serious, instructive tome. On the other it is an addictive, dip-in-and-outable romp through some of the greatest and worst scents ever produced.” -Daily Express (U.K.)

    “There is a great tradition of olfactory literature, and in Perfumes Turin confirms his right to be classed alongside Proust or Patrick Suskind as a poet of smell.” -The Observer (U.K.)

    “No one can doubt that they’ve written a work of the highest criticism , one which elevates writing about perfume to the best sort of writing about wine or rock music.” -Philip Hensher, The Independent (U.K.)

    “They make it so entertaining, you don’t even have to like perfume to enjoy perfume to enjoy reading about it.” -The Denver Post

    “Compelling because it’s arrestingly honest, passionately poetic.” Grazia (Australia)

    “(My) favorite book of open-sky criticism this year.” - Dwight Garner, “Paper Cuts” (the New York Times blog)

    “[T]his bigoted, snarling, monomaniacal, subjective, triumphalist and quite magnificent book.” -Prospect (U.K.)

    “[N]othing less than an essential possession. Most books that are calles life-changing don’t make the least little difference to anybody whatsoever. In its own field, this one deserves the name.” - Evening Standard (U.K.)

    “I breathed in, rather than read, in one delighted gulp; opinionated, knowledgeable, sharply written, and surprisingly comprehensive, it’s a purely enjoyably book.” -Hilary Mantel


    -- It would also be great to see Octavian Coifan replace all the great articles he wrote on his blog. As knowledgeable about perfume as anyone ever has been and writes just as well. He removed 99% of what was there. There was a massive amount of it. http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/



    Nice!
    * * * *

  10. #160

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Looks like they are trying to get two more reviews up today:

    BEAUTY GUIDE
    Message in a Bottle: Viktor & Rolf and Hermès
    luca turin reviews bonbon and jour d'hermès absolu

    (From the main page, but following the link... it "doesn't exist")
    Having Simultaneous Affairs with: Amouage Memoir Man, Fate Man, Interlude Man, Epic Extrait (yep... the femme version), Tribute, Homage, Opus IV, VI, & VII • Puredistance M, Black • Tauer L'Air & Carillon pour un Ange • Knize Ten Golden • L'Artisan Al Oudh, Traversee du Bosphore, Dzing! • TF Noir de Noir • Xerjoff Homme, Richwood, Regio, 1861, 1888, Zafar • Serge Lutens MKK, Gris Clair, Fille en Aiguilles, La Myrre • H de Parfums 1740, Noir Patchouli, Tub3 Animale • Abdes Salaam Tabac, Sharif, Mecca Balsam • Slumberhouse Vikt, Baque • MDCI Invasion Barbare, Chypre Palatin • Nicoläi NY, Vie de Chateau Intense, L'Eau Mixte • Dior Leather Oud & Patchouli Imperial • Chanel Sycomore • Guerlain Derby, Songe d'un Bois d'Ete • MFK Oud Cashmere Mood • Ormonde Jayne Man

  11. #161

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Didn't he already review Jour d'Hermes EdT? Come on, Luca, we are jonesing hard and you are giving us scrapings from the pipe!

  12. #162

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    :-) The fragrances reviewed reflect the launches in the Gulf....

  13. #163
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post
    :-) The fragrances reviewed reflect the launches in the Gulf....
    Welcome back! We are glad to see you
    improving olfactory environments one molecule at a time....

  14. #164

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Link to article, pls? Thankee.

  15. #165
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Here you go - arabia.style.com

  16. #166

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by lpp View Post
    Here you go - arabia.style.com
    Thanks, all. I have to say I'm particularly enjoying this thread and the opinions/emotions that Luca's words generate. Keep 'em coming.

    Best,

    Shashi
    CEO & Publisher, Style.com/Arabia

  17. #167
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Thanks for publishing them, Shashi

  18. #168

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by shashimenon View Post
    Thanks, all. I have to say I'm particularly enjoying this thread and the opinions/emotions that Luca's words generate. Keep 'em coming.

    Best,

    Shashi
    CEO & Publisher, Style.com/Arabia
    Thanks for providing a platform for some informed reviews (as opposed to advertorial fluff pieces) . . . where there's credibility, smart readers will congregate (naturally I include myself amongst said smart ones)
    “Anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge.'”
    ― Isaac Asimov

  19. #169
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by HORNS View Post
    Didn't he already review Jour d'Hermes EdT? Come on, Luca, we are jonesing hard and you are giving us scrapings from the pipe!
    LOL

    Apparently different enough that the reviews sound rather dissimilar, other than the central tea stuff. Gotta give him a little bit of flanker leeway - and room for the occasional 4- or 5-star fragrance!

    Jour d'Hermès (EDP): http://arabia.style.com/beauty/beaut...saab-hermes/#9

    Jour d'Hermès Absolu (EDP): http://arabia.style.com/beauty/beaut...rances-2014/#7

    I do like the original - I'll be interested to see if the Absolu does anything for me.

    Have to say that I'm disappointed about BonBon, but Spicebomb has left me happy for quite a while.
    * * * *

  20. #170

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kagey View Post
    Sorry- didn't mean to be confusing. I was just responding to your point that the book should have been more rigorous and consistent. I was trying to figure out how you do that when perfume is so subjective. Every review is someone's personal reaction, colored by her experience, knowledge, prejudices, etc., as well as the subject (perfume in this case) itself.

    Pretentious might be a fair call. But that's something different altogether.
    For what it is, I think the title just doesn't fit. And if your claim is correct, then nobody should use this title for such a book! Perhaps if one simply used GC/MS charts, with "expert" commentary on them, that title would make some sense. However, even then, there are just too many scents that have been marketed. A better title might be, "A Guide to the World's Most Popular Scents," if one were to include detailed "reviews" of as many scents as were in "The Guide" (and if the scents were indeed the most popular, obviously). Otherwise, as I said long ago, a title like, "Perfumes: A Tongue in Cheek Guide" would have made much more sense, IMO. Still, since there was (and still is) so little literature on the subject in book form, I consider my criticism to be minor, because all aficionados should consider owning it, even if he or she thinks the title is absurd.

  21. #171

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Personally I seem do not be interested in any other "expertise" of any perfume than how it clicks/agrees with my nose/skin/brain
    when I read any reviews, (can not say I read Turin ones though) I just sort of see between the lines - if the person does it casually for number of reviews or tries to go deeper, I often then go back to perfume to see that catchy perspective from another humans..soul..and sometimes I do find it, what I personally missed in it
    So some people with their reviews are capable to open their world of smells to me< but mostly - not)

    and thinking that no matter which are your intentions each review will get PROFIT to producers..hmmm...weird in some way

  22. #172
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    I like intelligent snarky writing and love the book - that being sad, I have bought some $200+ juice that got one star reviews :-)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    improving olfactory environments one molecule at a time....

  23. #173

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Thanks for the link! I enjoyed the reviews -- funny and enlightening -- with skillful writing that still incorporates his great use of metaphor, allegory, irony, and hyperbole. As far as the ratings go, agree or disagree -- it matters not.

    Now, once again, how can I find some fragrance samples in this cattle-and-corn state where I live?

  24. #174

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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    What about Turin's upcoming new book of reviews? Any update?.
    I want it more than any fragrance.

  25. #175
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Thanks for the link! I enjoyed the reviews -- funny and enlightening -- with skillful writing that still incorporates his great use of metaphor, allegory, irony, and hyperbole. As far as the ratings go, agree or disagree -- it matters not.

    Now, once again, how can I find some fragrance samples in this cattle-and-corn state where I live?
    I hear you, sister!
    Currently wearing: White Flowers by Creed

  26. #176
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by KillerScent View Post
    What about Turin's upcoming new book of reviews? Any update?.
    I want it more than any fragrance.
    Interesting -- I hadn't heard that there was an upcoming new book of reviews. I wonder if he'll delve into vintages much, as his last book left many out.

  27. #177
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by cytherian View Post
    Interesting -- I hadn't heard that there was an upcoming new book of reviews. I wonder if he'll delve into vintages much, as his last book left many out.
    So many are ruined now by re formulation that it seems unlikely.
    Currently wearing: White Flowers by Creed

  28. #178
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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    So many are ruined now by re formulation that it seems unlikely.
    Yeah, probably too small of an audience to focus on earlier formulations of classic fragrances... more "career advantageous" to stick with newer releases.

  29. #179

    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    There's also some rule about them being available at the time of writing, the believe. I met Luca and Tania last year and offered a decant from my 1982 bottle of Norma Kamali Incense, but Luca noted that they couldn't really review it because it's pretty much extinct. That could be why the vintages are only mentioned in passing?

  30. #180

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    Default Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Any update on the new book? Is it still going on?

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