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Thread: Summing Up 2013

  1. #31

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    Best Launch: I didn't begin until September, so no idea. Possibly Slumberhouse Zahd because I already want it.

    Disappointment of the Year: Keiko Mecheri's Clair-Obscur (formerly Jasmine). To me, it's an aldehydic bomb I couldn't tolerate. Almost put me off the line entirely, but luckily I discovered La fille de Berlin this week.

    Personal Discovery: Perfume! Basenotes! I feel immeasurably enriched by the varied scents I now spray on myself daily (and nightly) and by the information and support at Basenotes. I'm trying my best to fly up the learning curve and enjoying every moment.

    Plans for 2014: To complete my initial collection of total loves then go into maintenance mode, exploring new scents as they're released.

    Person of the year: Everybody breathing, because we all want the same thing: to be happy.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 6th December 2013 at 08:32 AM.

  2. #32

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    Best Launch: I also don't keep up with launches, but here are three I tried and enjoyed: Aftelier Cuir Gardenia, delightfully stinky catnip, Atelier Cologne Silver Iris, smooth, elegant, pure , Phi Une Rose de Kandahaar, just discovering Andy Tauer's house in earnest and I quite liked this one! I notice others list it as a disappointment ...

    Disappointment: again breaking from the pack when I say Chanel 1932 - disappointed because its beauty is so darn fleeting on my skin!

    Personal Discovery: three houses I have begun to explore: Arquiste (Anima Dulcis is my favorite) Histoires de Parfums (1804 and the Tueberose Trilogy) and coming late to the party of Andy Tauer. (Une Rose Vermielle may end up being my first full bottle for 2014) I also realized how much I love and appreciate tuberose

    Plans for 2014 continued appreciation for the house of Guerlain, to keep an eye out for vintage Shalimar, to perhaps try the parfum version of Chanel No. 22 and as I mention above, I may add a bottle of URV to my collection. Sampling it now and it keeps making me smile! I feel like a happy vintage lipstick

    Person of the Year: all basenoters, of course! with Quarry holding a special place of recognition for her coordination once again of the Chicago meetup - thank you!!!

    great thread,Twolf!
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  3. #33

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    I edited..1932 and Violette Fumee were kind of almost in a tie for best launch. But upon sniffing VF again, I'd say that gets my vote. Blended great. My sample drained very quickly. I'd love a decant of this.

    Thinking of you, Mimi!.
    Last edited by kalli; 6th December 2013 at 09:27 PM.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    New nose of 2013 has to be ScentFan, who writes with clarity and verve on her fragrance journeys...
    Wow, just saw this. Thank you, jujy54. Before, I was just the gal you can use as a human canary to pick up malfactors in the air...actually had to leave my house one year until repairmen found what went amiss in the air-conditioning system after a hurricane. It's exciting to find such a pleasurable use for my hypersensitive nose.

  5. #35
    The power of bleu
    shadesofbleu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Jayhawk country!

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    Best Launch: Wow ... I have been woefully oblivious to new releases this year. Out of the 677 fragrances listed for 2013, I have only tested 5: Chanel 1932, Hermes Eau de Narcisse Bleu, Kerosene Unknown Pleasures, Marc Jacobs Honey, and Oscar de la Renta Something Blue.

    I liked Unknown Pleasures enough to buy a decant but something about 1932 stays with me and it is on my wish list. Honey was absolutely awful on my skin and the other two were just meh.

    Disappointment of the year: To me the biggest bummer this year is that celubuscents are still being pumped out at alarming rates. New releases by One Direction? Pitbull? Seriously?

    Personal Discovery: My taste continues to evolve and expand, which is a good thing. I have finally made peace with Chanel no 5 after years of wanting to love it. I always received compliments when wearing it, but it never felt "right" on my skin. I don't know what changed, but it does feel "right" now. At last. Also, I find myself liking a few more florals ... small steps, but steps going forward all the same.

    Plans for 2014: No specific plans really. I would like to add a few bottles to the collection off of my wish list, keep exploring new-to-me notes and scents, add a back-up bottle of some older stock Angel ...
    I've trademarked the color bleu
    Currently wearing: Cuirs by Carner Barcelona

  6. #36
    I smell something
    tdem1961's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Staten Island, NY

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    Great thread!

    Best launch: I have scaled way back on testing. I do like Dries van Noten, though.

    Disappointment of the year: Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule and La Fille de Berlin

    Personal discovery: that vintage fragrances suit me best.

    Plans for 2014: to enjoy what I already have.
    "I felt something so intense, I could only express it in a perfume." - Jacques Guerlain

  7. #37

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    Twolf, I love the thread, and I've been wanting to post my thoughts for *weeks*! At last, some free time

    Best Launch: I just don't keep up with launches. I basically go where my nose takes me, and while it's taken me on some fabulous excursions this year, they generally didn't involve new fragrances. But I did manage to sniff a few. The winner for me, by a country mile, is Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli. I fell for it hard in Skins 6|2 in Las Vegas and shattered my rule of "no more impulse buys" by purchasing it on the spot. And I love it -- for the heat of summer. What I love in the cold of winter is also one of my personal discoveries: Sonoma Scent Studio Rose Volupte -- a vintage-y feeling rose amber. Gorgeous.

    Biggest Disappointments: I'm a contrarian -- what can I say? Runner-Up is Mona di Orio Violette Fumee (no structure or base on me, and it's Gone In 60 Seconds™) The clear winner for biggest disappointment? Dries Van Noten par Frederic Malle. Because I fully expected to LOVE this one. It wasn't bad, but it barely rated a "meh." Honorable Mention goes to Atelier Cologne Silver Iris. Much like John Cusack's "not a omelette" in Grosse Pointe Blank, this one was "not a iris." And I wanted it to be. Which leads me to …

    Personal Discoveries:
    • There are iris fragrances I can wear and love! Heeley Iris d'Nuit is at the top of the list, and I very quickly bought a full bottle. Thanks to cello, Jon, and Whitefluffy for raving about it And I have 2 other irises on my wish list (PG Cuir d'Iris and Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris) -- but I definitely don't love all of them.

    • I finally found a couple of roses (and one oud!) to love: Rose Volupte and Rose Anonyme

    • I still do not care for Guerlain, Chanel, or Caron. I have, however, found plenty of other stuff to love.

    • I continue to love most of what Serge Lutens and Parfumerie Generale put out there. But Uncle Serge's 2013 releases were not my cup of tea.

    • One word and one letter: Puredistance M.

    Plans for 2014: to buy some of the full bottles I've been eyeing for a long time and use up or give away some of my samples and decants. Relatedly, to attend a fabulous meet-up and spend time with some of you lovely people in person.

    Person of the Year: Quarry, for all the work she did on the Chicago meet-up even though I couldn't attend and had to observe, dejectedly, from only a 45-minute flight away. And all of the SotD posters -- you're a great bunch to wake up to or retire in the evenings with. Particularly when there's a glass of wine or a finger or two of bourbon involved.
    Currently wearing: Vert des Bois by Tom Ford

  8. #38
    Basenotes Institution

    Join Date
    Feb 2005

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    ExtremeK, thanks for posting. I so agree with you about FM Dries Van Noten and SL 2013 releases, it is not even funny! Remember how I was anticipating La Fille de Berlin?
    Currently wearing: Omnia Paraiba by Bulgari

  9. #39

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    ^ I remember that Twolf, bummer. I haven't sniffed it yet though.

    Extreme K, I noticed Sephora has an Atelier coffret, five 1 oz botltes which includes the patchouli:

  10. #40

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    Hello! For me:

    Best launch - Dries van Noten. Spices, check. Woods, check. Vanilla, check. Instant love for me.

    Biggest disappointment - To be honest, my expectations are so low these days, literally nothing disappoints me. Well, actually there is - news of continued restrictions.

    Personal discovery - Guerlain Mayotte. Sunshine and tropical holidays bottled with Guerlain's musk. Oh, and Parfum des Merveilles. The earthy, skin-like drydown of this one is an incredible experience.

    Plans for 2014 - Organise my collection, I can't find anything atm
    Currently wearing: Sandalo by Etro

  11. #41

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    Best Launch: Mona di Orio Violette Fumee.

    Disappointment of the Year: Hermes Jour d'Hermes. Yes, I am in this club too. Hermes and Ellena can do better. We know it. And I think they do, too.

    Personal Discovery: The entire line of Mona di Orio fragrances.

    Plans for 2014: Hunting down vintage fragrances, sampling something new from the niche.

    Person of the Year:Don't mean to sound cheesy, but thanks Grant and Co for bringing us back home!

    All the best for 2014!

  12. #42

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    Best Launch:

    Apologies in advance if I'm a year out with some of these . . . anyway, they surfaced for me in 2013

    Amouage - Fate Woman. A masterpiece. Thank you Christopher Chong and Dorothee Piot for bringing romance back to perfumery.

    IUNX - L'Arbre. A pure Mysore Eau de Cologne - simple as that. The hint of immortelle that comes and goes is acceptable.

    Diptyque - Tam Dao EDP. After enduring years of people singing the praises of cedar bomb Tam Dao EDT and calling it a sandalwood, Diptyque have finally made good on their word and released a Tam Dao that REALLY DOES CONTAIN sandalwood and made it the star. Superb, all is forgiven - I have gone thru half a bottle already.

    Mona di Orio - Violette Fumée. It's a shame this is quite fleeting but there you go . . . that doesn't detract from the green and purple hues of this uplifting and hale and hearty contemporary take on a sort of fougere style. My first from this line, prompted partly by the fact that she created it for a man she cared deeply about, which adds to the allure. Beautiful.

    CDG - Black. Wonderful mix of old wood that has been exposed to incense over many years and given the odd buff with some quality lemon infused furniture wax. Probably destined to be overlooked given the multitude of other 'incense and woods' in the CdG line, but something of a modern classic in my estimation - I hope a new generation of kids discover this.

    Frederic Malle - Dries Van Noten. Compelling almost-gourmand that, while it doesn't actually feature Mysore in a lead role, has sublimated it masterfully under the steamy coffee house with excellent pastries on display accord.

    Guerlain - Shalimar Ode a la Vanille Mexique. The third in this spin-off series where I suspect M. Wasser is having enormous fun infusing the Shalimar structure with different styles of vanilla and who knows what else from his travels. Mexique is not overtly 'chocolatey' as I thought it might be, it leans more towards the first in the trio (not as dark as madagascar). I am dumbfounded as to why these can be found scattered around odd stores on the planet but NOT at the main Guerlain counters . . . my bottle (after much searching) came from a Sephora in Dubai!

    Diptyque - Volutes EDT. May have been 2012, but just so damned wearable! Lovely balance of tobacco and upbeat brightness.

    MDCI - Chypre Palatin. Also 2012, I think, but finally got a bottle and it's a beautiful, effortless ride.

    Vero Kern - Les Voiles. In the tradition of more established houses Vero Kern thoughtfully offers another iteration of Onda, Rubj, Kiki and Mito to sit comfortably between the original Extraits and the brighter 'passion fruited up' EDPs.

    Hermes - Epice Marine. Lays down the gauntlet with a 'coastal marine' spice and whisky inspiration that offers far more than might initially appear. It will be easy to brush this one off as yet another cumin inflected Ellena riff, but for those who can see beyond that and spend some time with it the rewards lie in wait. It's unusual, and if you are one of those who bridle at the thought of using wakame, seaweed in salads then maybe too much for you, but I am enjoying this and look forward to spending more time with it (a very recent purchase).

    Guerlain - Mitsouko Extrait 2013. After a few years of the abysmal apology for arguably one of the greatest perfumes ever made, Thierry Wasser has found a way to bring it back into something approximating the real deal. Blame the IFRA and the fools working for the EU for the woeful state of affairs we find oursleves in, but please applaud Wasser for doing his best against all odds.

    Disappointment of the Year:

    Bottega Veneta PH. Safe, probably focus grouped and worried half to death - what a missed opportunity after the earlier femme.

    Cartier - L'Heure Vertueuse. It's absolutely lovely but I can happily get by with Ms. Laurent's earlier (superb, classic) Herba Fresca, which does much the same job.

    Puredistance - Black. It's okay, just a very, very safe diluted Serge Noire with a bit of Encre noir inkiness to me - bland really, but fine for guys who want some ooomph but nothing too adventurous.

    Personal Discovery:

    Solely due to the kindness and inspired 'connecting the dots' between my own meandering tastes and her deep knowledge of what's actually what, I was introduced to Miller Harris Cuir d'Oranger by a quiet basenoter who has become a solid friend, and it immediately leapt into my desert island five. Fortunately she also located a couple of back-up bottles for me, which is a good thing because it's officially discontinued. Sublime.

    Plans for 2014:

    I want to get a better handle on what Roja Dove is doing with his Fetish collection, as well as Diaghilev and a few others. He may be our last hope.

    Person of the Year:

    Beranium Chotato for hosting the most intelligent and fragrant private party on the planet.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 27th December 2013 at 09:09 AM.

  13. #43
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Carmel, CA

    Default Re: Summing Up 2013

    Glad to hear the new Mitsouko's doing good. Looking forward to smelling it.

    Glad to see the Yohji Yamamotos reissued, especially the excellent Yohji (originally made by Jean Kerleo) and one of my favorites Yohji Homme.

    Personal discovery: More than ever I understand how good it is to take time away from smelling perfumes.

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