Thread: The Annick Goutal Encyclopędia
I own Sables (but I know you're not an immortelle fan) and Vetiver (a vetiver with emphasis on the salty, rubbery part). I like Heure exquise too, and may buy. I smelled once and wasn't blown by the various passions and by Grand amour. I liked Eau de Camille as a light green eau de cologne, I may eventually get it for the gym.
As far as I know, vetiver and eau d'hadrien are being supplanted by the new edcs, which are true eau de cologne. Smell nice, gone in 30 min.
Hi, Hedonist, yes the Vanille Exquise is decorated in gold flecks. They do look a bit dark and suspect in the photo! That's such a nice creamy vanilla. Not many people seem to have it. I think it was reissued at one point. I'd get some if I could be sure it was as good as this.
also, with the Eau D'Hadrian, always get the EDP! The EDT is crap.
Last edited by kumquat; 10th December 2013 at 01:49 PM.
Some photos from the Annick Goutal boutique.
There will be no more coloured bottles as you will see in the below photos. The exceptions are the round bottles which they can engrave your name on within three days!
The staff were just amazing and very informative about the beautiful late Annick Goutal. We had been shopping and were to return the next day but they presented me with a beautiful gift! Was about to head off for tea and they did the rose spritzing on my face and sprayed my fiancee and myself down with Rose Splendide. They were extremely generous!
Always keep Ithaca on your mind. Cavafy
Some people use colors to make decisions. Mostly subconscious.
Suppose a women is very feminine, she'd buy the pink and red ones but not the yellow & blue shaded ones for example.
Or perhaps a certain bottle color would mismatch her wardrobe or dressing area.
Also, the colors would deter a lot of guys.
By making all the bottles the same, you're avoiding sales lost due to cognitive issues.
This is to increase sales.
To reduce cost, you no longer have to worry about how many bottles of X color you need to order or reorder.
Now that they're all the same, you just need to pump in the required perfume & stick on the required name label.
This is much cheaper than uniquely colored bottles per perfume.
Chanel , Dior & most other brands have already started this soulless tactic.
When companies do this, you know they've lost a huge par of thier "soul".
Always keep Ithaca on your mind. Cavafy
Thank you Sea Roses. I think AG is unloading all the old bottles. That's why I have been seeing all sorts of heavily discounted AG fragrances online. I picked up a discontinued Le Jasmin EDP for $52 from a online retailer yesterday. Can't wait to receive it.
Looks like Songes has been reformulated. The old juice was much darker (Amber color for EDT, reddish for EDP). The new juice is light yellow, almost transparent.
Has anyone sniffed it recently and can compare it with the old juice?
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The new Le Muguet is grassy!
The older Le Muguet was very realistic--more so than any other LOTV I've smelled-- complete with the subtle lilac note that the live flower has. However, it lacked freshness. When you smell a bunch of lilies of the valley, it's as though the air itself is cooled. This was lacking from the earlier Le Muguet and that made it too stuffy for me.
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Hi everyone. I've been reading this thread on my phone. I haven't had a chance to pitch in till now.
I bought Hadrien again a couple of weeks ago and I think that it is different to the Hadrien of my memory. It's still nice, its bright. I would still recommend it, but the new one seems more sherbetty to me. The old one didn't have that feeling as far as I remember. It had more of a rich oily zesty quality. I don't know about Sud. I haven't come across it in ages.
I also have Ambre Fetiche. This is a stand out dark leathery amber in my view.
bump for one of my favorite houses;
I have bottles of the following:
duel (light tea wit a bit of citrus on me)
nimfeo mio (fig scented, wet/moist earthy smell with leaves)
nuit etoilee (spiky/prickly cool pine and mint)
un matin d'orage (almost has that ozone smell of after the thunderstorm with moist leaves and flowers)
mandragore pourpre (strong anise with incense on the background)
eu d sud (better citrus with green herbs, great for warm weather); also better than their bestseller eau d'adrien
eau d monsieur (smells classic, refreshing).
Well I am a FAN
definitely one of the most underrated and under the radar fragrances; my impression is that people are intimidated with the prim and proper fragrance presentation from the house; too traditional for some noses but isabelle doyen (is one of those not so popular but I consider her one the best perfumers around; also camille goutal is good)
Last edited by happyscent; 23rd January 2014 at 08:38 AM.
More expanded impressions:
Ninfeo Mio - starts on the most bright, lemon, fresh-green opening imaginable, and it does not smell like lemon pledge. The opening smells expensive. After that, the figs enter all plants and vegetation. There is sharpness and earthy of the smell. It smells like you were frolicking in the garden with under a fig tree, surrounded by indistinct smell of the flowers. The fragrance never loose its earthy grounded quality. On my skin the fragrance last for about 6-8 hours. Great longevity; Projection is about 4 hours, then it becomes skin scent.
Mandragore Pourpre The anise blast wakes you up to a day of mystery where something is a foot. A rustle, a strong breeze sweeps you by and you smell of smoky incense. The fragrance is very subtle, you get wifts on the most unexpected times. Is it magical?, probably not, but you get a sensual fragrance, mysterious and a little bit distant throughout the day. Perfect scent for an adventure. Original, Unique and definitely recommended. This one is a solid 8 hours on my skin. Projection is good for the first 4 hours and it becomes a skin scent for the rest of its life.
Nuit Etoille - my first purchase from the house of Annick Goutal, Mint and Pine combination. The opening has the harsh-mint quality and eventually, like an evening flower opening, the mint goes into a very smooth transition - pine and mint. Afterwhile, the fragrance becomes skin scent and what happens is truly magical. The mint, pine and woods combines to foresty-pine smell. It is like you rub your whole body in pine leaves. The smell also captured the prickly quality of those pine leaves. It can last 4-6 hours on my skin but this one is a total skin scent on me from start to finish.
An opinion on the house of Annick Goutal: The house of Annick Goutal has always capitalize stories, intimate stories of annick goutal herself, her daughters, her husband and her travels across the world. In a marketing perspective, I feel connected to their fragrances, there were special and personal, that the perfumer herself want to share to the rest of the world. A fragrance with a heart. What more can you ask?
The house have always maintained a high level of consistency without having a line-up that smells exactly as any other fragrance from any other line or within its own selections. I give credit to Doyen for her brilliance. Having an inhouse perfumer really preserved a level of integrity for the fragrance house.
Annick Goutal has always prided in soloflores offering even if it is not IN thing or the popular NOTE (like oud) in niche perfumery. In a sense AG do not follow the trends of the mass market. They do their own thing regardless if it will do well or be a best seller in the market. I do not know the current profile of annick goutal customers. But I am one of them :P
The Annick Goutal house creates fragrances that always smell natural (not necessarily pure essential oils) but it smells natural, a spring air captured, after the rain effect, the simplicity of a blooming flower, a play on a different vetiver fragrance or vanilla. Truly extraordinary when you compare it their offerings to other houses. They even produce fragrances that were later similarly interpreted by more popular niche houses. When you check the dates, Annick Goutal did it first
With the recent change of owners and repackaging, I do hope they continue exploring interesting takes on fragrances. I hope the perfumers will still have a bit of free hand what goes to market. I hope it will not happen that, extensive market research will be done just to have a fragrance that will sell in the millions. I do hope they will continue to offer fragrances that will tell a story and capture watercolor paintings of the world and beauty.
The following fragrances are I think creative exercises for the perfumer Isabelle Doyen for AG: a lot of play on aroma chemicals and subtlety: Un Matin d'orage; ninfeo mio; madragore pourpre, and le Chevrefeuille *fragrances were composed with camille goutal
I think Doyen is even better than Jean Claude Ellena in terms of composition and layering? haha; Elena's composition has a tendency to smell like glorified air fresheners
Last edited by happyscent; 8th February 2014 at 07:09 PM.
Weakness of the Brand: It is a double edge sword in terms of quality and interpretation, because of its very nature --- watercolor aspects and light hand of the perfumer. Most of the fragrances from the line are short lived, fleeting, and skin scents. But I sometimes wonder, if the fragrances were not fleeting or light, I may not appreciate the very nature of their beauty.
Please do not be discourage that being short lived means poor quality. That is not the case for the house of Annick Goutal. I feel they are one of the few houses remaining who has that dedication to continue incorporating high quality materials (natural or synthetic) and to smell is to believe what I am typing about
Confessions of an Annick Goutal Fanboy
Interested in trying the Nuit Etoille, however, I think there is an immortelle note in there, how big is that note in this perfume? Thanks.
I am not sure I can smell immortelle on my skin. My skin amplify the pines, mint, woody notes and tonka been to the highest level :P So the smell is a fresh dawn forest smell on my skin, really lovely. Some reviewers will say there is a smokiness to the woods and I also get that.
A picture of ninfeo mio, nuit etoille and mandragore pourpre - Beautiful bottles
I've tried only two, La Violette and Songes. I didn't care for La Violette, but that's only because I don't much like violet as the main note. Will be sampling Songes again soon ( when the temperatures get warmer ). It is a lovely, creamy, exotic fragrance. In fact, it has surpassed tuberose for me, tuberose being an old favorite of mine. Gardenia seems less strident than tuberose, but no less powerful. Now that I think about it, I might test it today just to find out how it behaves in mid-winter. I am sorry to learn that this house is also being compromised before I've had a chance to properly try it. I am particularly interested in Eau de Camille since I don't have experience with fresh, green fragrances.
Nice post, happyscent. l own & love both Un Matin d'Orage & Le Chevrefeuille, & to me they are among the most beautiful fragrances l've ever smelled. "Watercolour paintings" describes them very well; l agree that if they were "done in oils" they would lose a lot of their beauty.
l also own Encens Flamboyant, & this one is surprisingly long-lasting. Others can smell it on me hours after l think it's faded.
"What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.
Better get a bottle of eau d camille, it is already discontinued since last year I think. Camille is sweet-green on my nose. Just don't look on the name, a man can pull this off but better a young lady will smell fantastic on this.
Great you also love un matin d'orage & le chevrefueille - hard to type those names, it may also be the reason it is not much talked about haha when I got un matin d'orage that was a WOW moment for me, my nose telling me a smell of crackling lightning and a smell of wet flowers, leaves, earth and dirt all captured in a fragrance. A work of a brilliant mind.
chevrefue.. - is also a masterpiece, I imagine the sheer mind force required to recreate honeysuckle in a fragrance, it is simply amazing. No interpretation is better or successfully done.
In my country, les orientalist series is not to be found at all. I do hope they decide to carry this in the future.
Last edited by happyscent; 8th February 2014 at 11:23 PM. Reason: wrong grammar
Since last year I have bought several perfumes by Annick Goutal. This weak I was wearing
- Mandragore Limited Edition (colourless perfume in the colourless round bottle): this smells slightly spicy and is very comforting
- Grand Amour (Eau de Toilette) which starts green with lily and honeysuckle, joined later by leather. For my nose it gets sweet and flowery.
I like the likening of Annick Goutal perfumes to watercolour paintings, that's so suitable.
Our mission is for our clients to experience True Emotion. A unique and extraordinary experience designed so that clients discover the world of French high perfumery. A perfumery of Emotion and Creation, embodied in magnificent products and places that promote sharing and discovery.
We hope to share our emotionally-rich authentic history - to share the excellence of the unique heritage of our olfactory creations and offer a timeless moment of happiness and poetry, an enchanting break.
In 2013, the Annick Goutal House opted for a quiet revolution which builds on the bedrock of its heritage, as well as its power of emotion: a seamless transition, a sustainable breath of fresh air towards a new chapter.
A Know-How of French High Perfumery
Out of a desire for authenticity, the bottles, products and packagings are made exclusively in France by expert craftsmen, resulting in an exceptional finesse in its detail. The finishing decorative touches are, most of them, all done by hand, each one conveying a memory in the creator’s life.
As Annick Goutal liked to point out “luxury is in the details”. High Perfumery Know-How combined with a retro-chic style reflecting the unique, timeless world of Annick Goutal.
A universe of Emotion
Discovering the world of Annick Goutal is a unique experience. The secret of Annick Goutal lies in her talent for transforming emotions into fragrances. Each perfume tells a story, embodies a real moment: the memory of a loved one, a significant event or a moment of happiness, a magical place. Or it may be inspired by nature which she loved so much. “Each of my fragrances was born from an instant of my life, an emotion, a very intense moment of communication with nature. Thanks to the gift I have been given, I am in the very fortunate position of being able to take what I receive, translate it through the harmony of fragrance and pass it on in my own way.”
For Annick, creating perfume was an act of love, a quest of eternity. Love, like music, was her true reason to live. “Love is everything. You must never forget that in the end, the purpose of the perfume is to make you happy. I always have tried to do good, with much love. » Through her creations, Annick Goutal wanted to express her joy of living and make the world more beautiful. She composed her fragrances to deliver well-being and happiness. She naturally followed her instinct and her sense of beauty.
Today Camille and Isabelle create perfumes in the same spirit, with total creative freedom.
Eau du Sud
To awake the fresh and citrus notes of Eau du Sud, combine it with Eau d'Hadrien.
Or bring more mystery with the perfume Mandragore, or finally, a more spicy and salty touch with the Cologne Vétiver
To revive the fresh citrusy notes of Ninfeo mio, associate it with Eau d'Hadrien.
To intensify Mandragore and bring it a mystery note, we recommend you to combine it with the chypré Mandragore Pourpre.
To sublimate this night escapade under the milky way, here are our little secrets :
A hint of Eau d'Hadrien to awaken the fresh and tonic notes of citrus (eau de toilette, eau de parfum, body cream),
Or a touch of Eau du Sud or Mandragore which aromatic accords bring a burst of energy in the middle of this starry night...
Or a caress of Ninfeo mio to flatter the wooden base,
Or Sables to beautify the spicy warmth of the wild everlasting flowers,
Or Encens Flamboyant, for the fir balsam, common resin to both fragrances, which will transform the composition into a comforting balm as time passes...
And why not Sables, to embellish to spicy warness of everlasting flowers... Also, all the lovers of the mythical candle Noėl will fall under the spell of Nuit Etoilée. They will find the flavor of the sweet orange and the heat of Siberian pine. A must-have
Duel loves the contact with the skin : by spraying it directly on your neck or your chest, its fragrance will mix and get lost with the own smell of your skin, thus creating a rivalry... a duality.
Sables is superbe worn alone However, you can personalize it with other fragrances like Ambre Fétiche or Vanille Exquise to warm up the deep notes.
The head notes are identical to the fragrance Mandragore but are accentuated and more intense in this composition : more aromatic and spicy. For this reason, we recommend you to associate the two fragrances together, Mandragore Pourpre bringing a new chypré note.
Les Nuits d'Hadrien
Revive the fresh of citrus notes with Eau d'Hadrien. Or warm up the oriental notes with a hint of Ambre Fétiche or Sables
As the ingredients are mainly raw materials from vegetal resin origin and usually used as base notes in the fragrances, we advise you not to trust your first impression : leave the fragrance the time to blossom on your skin... After a while the perfume will finally reveal you the strenght of its personality. Encens Flamboyant can be worn alone or combined with Ambre Fétiche, Mandragore Pourpre or the feminine fragrance Songes.
The smell of the musk can seem imperceptible for some persons It is intimist, transparent and soft. Nevertheless it is an indispensable ingredient to allow the perfume to hold well on the skin. The musk will wake up by sparks throughout the day and its scents will surprise you as by magic, but in a reassuring way.
Thanks for starting off a Thread for this house, hedonist! I really need to pay attention to more in the line - I have tended to gloss over so many of the 'femmes' but from everyone's contributions here I can see a need to remedy that.
I own a few. Madragore is probably my favorite, just such an unusual riff on a terrific classical citrus / herbal composition. I bought Pourpre but I'm wondering why, frankly - I really prefer the original.
Encens Flamboyant was the first one I bought - a very nice 'moist' incense. Duel is also great, the first introduction to maté as a lead not, although I think L'Heure Fougueuse has nudged it aside - Duel seems a bit too sweet by comparison now.
Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille is the most recent purchase. I wasn't sure because I doubt I would wear it much - not a great fan of patchouli - but a 50ml came up on sale here and that's perfect. This is such a terrific 'nu-chypre' that I think anyone should own some just to have a reference as to what can be achieved even in the face of the ludicrous EU / IFRA restrictions on oak moss. It's like a hip Aromatics Elixir to me - ballsy and fun, very retro but with a twist.
Some quirky recommendations from annick goutal website:
Choosing or changing your perfume is a delicate and important moment.
I have so much respect for reflecting on this important choice that I don't like letting my salespeople sell the first time that a customer smells a perfume. I want my boutiques to be a place where you take the time to listen, to observe, to advise. Inevitably, certain types of women will be attracted to certain perfumes.
It is rare that brunettes like me don't like the seductive quality of Passion or Grand Amour.
Normally women, who are more pale, with bright grey-blue eyes like Heure Exquise, a fragile and transparent perfume.
For redheads, Folavril or Eau d'Hadrien is an immediate fit.
Mischievous women are directed towards Eau de Charlotte.
And we can always tell the women who were Tubéreuse from their deep dark eyes
But this is not a good reason to avoid other experiences. For a perfect, successful purchase, you have to go home and make sure that the perfume fits well with the odors of your home. You also have to test the reactions of your friends and family. Once I stopped wearing a perfume just because Camille didn't like it!”
How to perfume yourself
Discreetly. A perfume is a secret between you and yourself. Only your closest friends even know it exists." First step: in the morning, just after a shower with a perfumed gel, splash on an Eau de Toilette, dress, put on makeup, and once ready, spray high a light cloud of perfume. You can spin in this cloud to lightly perfume your hair, clothes - discretely, but intimately. By putting a touch below your ear, in the nape of your neck, like a whispered secret to those you love. At the end: slip into your breast pocket a handkerchief touched with several touches of your favorite perfume."
Annick Goutal is a High Perfumery House, guided by the values of its creator and characterized by its remarkable sophistication and the excellent quality of its raw materials. Annick Goutal's secret lies in its talent for transforming emotions into fragrances. Each unique creation represents a moment of happiness, a treasured emotion, or a powerful memory connected to a significant event or even a loved one. It is the age-old quest for eternity. The Annick Goutal house has established itself over the years as the brand favored by those who prefer the authentic to the ostentatious and craftsmanship to mass production.
Annick Goutal : " You must never forget that in the end, the purpose of the perfume is to make you happy. I always have tried to do good, with much love. And I have always kept close a quote I've taken from a book whose name I can't remember: 'Always give back gifts you have received, but not necessarily to those who sent it to you... "
Camille Goutal : “In the imaginary of the perfumery, there is a part of eroticism and sensuality. Certain customers do not use fragrance, but only perfumed body creams, a gesture which corresponds more to them. This is linked to their life, their story, and I am here to help them to find their perfume and listen to their sense. At the age of 40, you are sensual when you feel loved. That is worth all the beauty creams… This self-confidence is then perceived by the others.”
Last edited by happyscent; 17th February 2014 at 08:24 AM.