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  1. #1

    Default Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Still waiting for the rest of the Jasmines to arrive. All the chypres are in, but it looks a daunting task to organize the sniffs. Easier is to take whiffs from these.

    DIPTYQUE

    Best first learn something about the house. Okay, founded in Paris in 1961 by three creative friends -- "Christiane Gautrot was an interior designer, Desmond Knox-Leet, a painter, and Yves Coueslant, a theater director and set designer" -- they designed fabric, wallpaper and more then created their first perfume, L'Eau a unisex, in 1968. Let's see the results.


    L'Eau de L'Eau. Well, nice. This lighter version has a clean, very slightly detergent but pleasant smell. If there are florals they aren't rose or jasmine, perhaps something like hyacinth, though I'm not 100% sure what that smells like. Sounds close, though. Looking it up. Okay, wrong. The spices threw me. Top: green mandarine, grapefruit, lemon, petitgrain, clove, cinnamon, ginger, pink peppercorns. Mid: geranium (wonder if that smells anything like hyacinth), lavender, orange blossom. Base: Benzoin, tonka, patchouli. Somehow these ingredients combine to create an olfactory impression of water! That's what the name means. It's an okay scent, but not for me.

    Olène. I fell instantly in love with this beauty over in the Jasmin Sniff-Fest thread and it's already on order. It's smells like a solifore, the luxurious, narcotic Jasmine main note supported by something green, and some kind of musk. Specifically: top is narcissus and honeysuckle; mid is wisteria and jasmine; base is green notes and white flowers. They don't list it, but there's gotta be a musk in there. I'd bet my nose on it. The overall effect is at once sultry, clean and uplifting, as if while out walking on a summer's day you suddenly encounter the one you'll marry. The attachment is instant and effortless. That's Olène. Must compare her to another,Jasmine soliflore that I find myself returning to again and again, Demeter's Jasmine. Similarly hypnotic, Olène is a tad more floral and Demeter a tad more green. Both lure and hold the nose in rapture.

    L'Ombre dans L'Eau
    . A man washing? (my French is terrible). If so, he was just working in the garden and tossing hay to the horses. Right...translation software. No, it means the shadow on the water! Embarrassing. At least I tried. Diptyque wants us to think of "the rustling of petals and the leaves of bushes heavy with fruit in an English garden," assumedly a riverside garden. Well, I do smell lavender? ...no, it's black currant and Bulgarian rose! Then where is all the green coming from? Do some perfumers not list all their notes, much less all their ingredients? Perhaps my nose is momentarily disabled, too, possibly from the KM Mogador and SL La fille de Berlin I sprayed all over myself, joined just now by two Jasmines!

    Off to remove scent, retrieve coffee beans and try again.

    Back later.

    - - - Updated - - -

    L'Ombre dans L'Eau, EdT. (starting over). Actually, the first time I read this I translated it to "an unwashed man," forgetting it's sans that means "without" and dans means "in." Also, hombre (spanish)=man and ombre (French=shadow). On to the sniffing. This is initially an intensely green scent, but soon comes the rose, surrounded by what feel like spicy elements. I get the leaves of bushes throughout, but not the fruit so much. Ah, it's black currant LEAVES, not the fruit itself? Makes sense. I wish they'd identify more of the notes so I can get a handle on the scent. If I just let my nose talk, it's saying: combination rose and pepper garden, keep sniffing and you'll sneeze.

    [Coffee beans]

    Philosykos, EdT. (Woody Armomatic, F) Mmm, nice. Fruit and wood. Spice or an aldehyde underneath giving density? Not the least light, like the first two. Looking it up. Fig tree leaves and fruit, coconut, wood, white cedar. The intent is a fig grove and the density is meant to be earthy, but the way it's achieved means I can't sniff very long. The initial notes are fabulous, though.

    Vetyverio, EdT. (Floral, Woody Musk, F) Vetiver, I'm assuming. Ah, this green is very nice. The base is still quite dense, but the airy greenness flies above it. There's probably citrus. Looking it up: "notes of mandarin, grapefruit, lemon and bergamot, followed by the floral bouquet of ylang-ylang, rose and geranium and spices such as carrot seed, nutmeg and clove. The base is composed of dry cedar, vetiver and musk." Yes, I detect the flower now. With me, my nose is disabled by very strong elements like cedar and clove, unless in just the right amounts and with the perfect counterbalancing ingredients. (This says nothing about other people's noses, of course.)

    Tarocco, EdT. (Aromatic Spicy, F). Lovely top notes and I was going to say that next to Olène I like this one the best. But again there's that strong, spicey base that makes it hard to breathe. What's in it? "orange, grapefruit, saffron, cinnamon, rose, ginger, cedar, incense, musk"

    I think it's cedar, and perhaps something else common to these last four scents that I'm ultra-sensitive to.

    L'Eau des Hesperides, EdT. (Aromatic) Typing with one finger so I can keep this to my nose. The scent is light fresh, almost mentholated, a bit antiseptic if pleasantly so. Ingredients: "bitter orange, mandarin, lemon, petitgrain, aromatic herbs, red thyme, rosemary, peppermint, everlasting flower, cedarwood, white musk" Other than the citrus, I think it's the rosemary and peppermint that stand out. Smelling this on my nurse or doctor would give me confidence in them. I like, but don't love it. I think it's the cedar.

    I'm missing some of the Diptyques: L'Eau de Neroli, Ofresia, Do Son, Eau Lente, Oyedo. I see Luckyscent's offering a free sample set with purchases using sample code 2013Diptyque. Hope they stuck one in my delayed Olène shipment before mailing it today. Or did I order specific free samples? Can't remember. Of those I've sampled, Olène is by far the best for me.

    More tomorrow.

    - - - Updated - - -

    JOVOY

    This house was created in 1923 by Blanche Arvoy, who also created the house of Corvay a year later and won recognition for her perfumes. Francois Hénin, who spent years in Viet Nam distilling essential oils and years in Grasse working at a perfume house, bought Jovoy and is its nose. In 2006 they relaunched the old scents and in 2010 opened a "grande parfumerie" in Paris's perfume district. He talks about haut parfumerie, citing Clive Christian (who makes a $215,000 scent!), Grossmith (I have 3 of their samples and will include them), Pure Distance and Vero Profumo. His intent was to make the store the "destination perfumery for all fine fragrance lovers in Paris. In addition to their own brands, the store sells Clive Christian, Andy Tauer, Heeley and Aedes de Venustas. Finally, they create "perfume trunks" of 16 perfumes that serve as their ambassadors and go out to fine hotels and exclusive stores. (Mommie, can I have one?!) If any of this is wrong, feel free to correct me! Naturally, I'm hopeful of great sniffs from my 9 Jovoy samples. I'll use descriptions from their website.

    Ambre Premier (Oriental) Head: fresh and spicy. Heart: Floral rose. Base: Patchouli, amber, vanilla. We're told to expect cotton candy on first sniff. Uh-oh. Sniff. All right, my nose is happy! It's not a matter of whether I love this lovely thing, just how much. In its delicate, brilliant aroma, I can almost smell Hénin's years in Viet Nam. Was it the pre--or-post-War years, was he there for IndoChine or Ho Chi Minh's Viet Nam? Did he sleep in colonial hotels -- the Majestic, the Continental -- visit rice paddies, the Mekong Delta, the 99 peaks of the Hồng Lĩnh mountains and absorb the aromatic bounty, did he sail on junks through Halong Bay? I planned a then cancelled a trip to Viet NAM when Tokyo's nuclear plants went caput, but I'd already studied the country and fallen in love, read its national epic poem, The Tale of Kiều (anybody who did would have known not to bother invading these resilient people). Must read more about Hénin. For now, I won't be surprised to adore every single one of his perfumes, recreations or otherwise.

    L'Enfant Terrible. (Oriental) Head: herbaceous, very spicy nutmeg, coriander, cumin; Heart: orange tree, date fruit. Base: musk, sandalwood, cedar wood. Okay, I'm not a big lover of spice and especially cedar so maybe I won't like this. Sniff. Yes, it's not my thing. I can live without this, but he has my total respect for the complex beauty of this perfume. If you're into these ingredients, you can't go wrong, IMO, with a buy.

    Gardez-Moi. (Floral) Head: Cyclamen, Gardenia, Vanilla. I doubt seriously if, given these three things, most perfumers could come up with this! Wow, there are just no words. Okay, let me try. You died and went to heaven. The wreath of gardenias they put on your casket magically appeared there, too, transformed into the kind of flowers angels use to make wings. A reasonable person might think I'm exaggerating and maybe I am, but now I'm scared to smell the rest for fear of having no money at all left in 2013.

    Le Jeux Sont Faits. (Leathery) Cumin, Patchouli, Tobacco. He tells us to expect the olfactory equivalent of the '63 film, Monsieur Gangster. To paraphrase: street walkers, smoky gambling dens, a supercharged boxing match. Sniff. Though it's not for me, it's certainly an elegant and accomplished combo of those ingredients.

    L'Arbre de la Connaissance. (Woody) Fig, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Fig Tree. What Diptyque attempted in Philosykos, Henin achieved -- the best smelling fig tree ever. It's a fragrant, light and sophisticated scent.

    Jovoy Private Label. (Oriental). Vetiver, leather. Head: papyrus sedge, vetiver, leather.Base: gum cistusOops, I might be allergic to cistus. Sniff. My goodness. A very nice oriental. It doesn't make me almost tear up like Ambre Premier and Gargez-Moi, but boy is it every nice. What's different is that Jovoy takes core ingredients and somehow wraps them in olfactory paradise. The scents aren't brash, they're ultra sophisticated. Okay, two more.

    Psychedelique. (Woody). I have a feeling I'm going to adore this one. Head: fresh hesperidium (looking it up...a segmented, juicy berry).Heart: floral rose, geranium, ambered, woody (patchouli, cistus, gum cistus). Base: vanilla, musk. Uh-oh, cistus again. Sniff. No problem. This is a walk in the most fragrant woods imaginable.

    Rouge Assassin. (Floral) Iris, rose, vanilla. "Rouge Assassin pays tribute to those fearless, unstoppable women who upended the established order and broke all the rules" in the Second Empire (Napoleon Bonaparte's time). I expected to adore this, but I just admire it. Like Jovoy's others, it's an elegant and sophisticated perfume, more a skin scent perhaps than a modern sillage monster.

    Until I smell the rest of the Jovoys and the Cordays, I'm left wanting to own Ambre Premier and Gardez-Moi. To me, they're all masterpieces, but these I especially love.

    More to come.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    If you decide to do a sample pass and review for Jovoy and Slumberhouse, I'd like to ask if I can get in on it and do reviews here, having never smelled anything from either of those lines and I'm intrigued by your reviews. Also I'm excited to discover a line that might not get nerfed by restrictions and I can feel free to fall in love with them.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Excellent reviews Scent Fan. Thank you the information as it was very informative to me especially the Jovoy line which I haven't experienced just yet. I know most of this line you reviewed were designated for the female. Do you think Ambre Premier and Gardez Moi have any unisex attributes.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    ScentFan, feels like you are so very busy with your sniffing, makes me think about getting my b*tt in gear and start sniffing more myself. Besides, in the time that you are not sniffing, you are writing about the fragrances, and not one liners like I would after the initial blast, but full-blown, well thought-out and overall enjoyable reviews. Please keep them coming.

    (LOL @ An Unwashed Man!)

    Much much respect.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Why is this in the Female forum?

    Interesting reads about Jovoy's, more stuff to my sample list, again...
    We want a 'Niche' forum.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Gotta be careful here. Brian, where would you like this thread to be? In General Fragrance Discussion? We sometimes are having fun here too, BTW. (There is no TonyT that often, either)It is the first time I read about Jovoy fragrances, especially interested in their L'Arbre (Fig) fragrance..

    ScentFan, what do you think about it? (I have to ask you, you are the OP).

  7. #7

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    SLUMBERHOUSE

    Their simple but elegant website (www.slumberhouse.com) says it all: "reflections of life and decay." Before reading that, I'd done a fast sniff of their sample set and imagined someone saying, "Let's go get some of that clay they made Adam from and see what we can do with it." To me, Slumberhouse is earthiness.

    Jeke Parfum extrait. Ohhh. Lovely leather, lovely wood, lovely oud?, or whatever they used to create the impression of newly turned earth after a rain, wet leather, autumn produce split open on the ground. This is a take-no-prisoners, musky masterpiece. Absolutely nothing disturbs my finicky nose. Applause, applause! It says, "Go to the lake. Look. See that hand reaching from the sky to the lakeshore in the rain, grabbing clay and making man." OR, think a Meerschaum pipe, a leather chair by a fire, and a very old Armagnac on a tray nearby. Not sure I'll wear this myself, maybe layer it with a floral, but I'm sure as heck slathering it on my guy. What's in it? Benzoin, patchouli, tobacco, Lapsang Souchong (looking it up...black tea from the Fujian province of China, has a famously smoky aroma), vanilla, clove. Just tremendous!

    [Coffee beans]

    Norne Parfum extrait. Okay, okay, I've almost got it. What is that bright, kind of astringent top note. Hay? This is less the creation of man and more...oh, I don't know, I just can't think while I'm smelling this, but trust me it's mustily, fragrantly terrific. I'm guessing a lot of guys on here love Slumberhouse and maybe a lot of females, too. What's in it? Fog caked needle (of course!), Lichen, fern, moss, Hemlock, incense. Yes, yes, yes! One day I'll be able to name notes when I smell them. Meanwhile, I'll just have settle for inarticulately gasping in delight.

    [Coffee beans]

    Ore Parfum extrait. Wow, wow, wow! Okay, I'll just sell the house and bunk with relatives. I'm at a loss in the face of such beauty, as I'm finding here and in Jovoy. Not that they're different from other perfections ... the perfect flower, the perfect moment under the moon. Why did it take my whole life to wake up to the vast emotions and sensations offered by perfume, but as you can probably tell I fully tend to make up, at top speed, for my heretofore obliviousness. Ingredients? Oakwood, Cocoa, Mahogany, Guaiac, Dittany of Crete, Vanilla (fragrant and rare cousin of oregano), Whickey Lactone (found in oakwood used to make barrels for whiskey, wines, brandies) and Peru Resin. As I linger with Ore, its gourmand elements coalesce, but on first sniff I recognized only pleasure.

    [Coffee beans]

    Pear + Olive Parfum extrait. Okay, I give up. Fa-bu-LOUS! If I didn't know from the name that it contains pair and olive, I never would have guessed on first sniff. Slumberhouse wants us to think "the ocean between our toes, the sun in our lungs" and that's exactly what I do from the unlikely combination of: zdravets (geranium from Bulgaria and Cyuprus), aglaia (tree in the mahogany family), massoia bark (an Indonesian tree), olive, cognac and pear. Bravo!


    Sova Parfum extrait. A darker, sultrier, more intoxicating song. If you've ever made fruitcake or Christmas Pudding (I did from scratch one year), do you remember how month after month the fruits and nuts transformed as you kept sprinkling them with brandy? After a while, it was just one amazing, can't-be-bought, knockout smell? Well, Sova isn't exactly that, but it has the same effect. I don't see it on their website. Lucky scent says it has: sweet clover, beeswax, poplar, genet flower, golden grains, hops, hay, tobacco. Also tones of honey, pumpkin and milk. Somebody at this place has one magnificent nose.

    Logically, I see no reason not to own all of these, but I'll start with ... uh, okay with ... resniffing. Oh, heck. I'll just have to put them in a bag, reach in, and pull one out ... Norne! Okay, but I need Pear + Olive too!! If you're into heavily earthy scents, Slumberhouse is bliss I tell you. Bliss.

    Grossmith coming next.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    If you decide to do a sample pass and review for Jovoy and Slumberhouse, I'd like to ask if I can get in on it and do reviews here, having never smelled anything from either of those lines and I'm intrigued by your reviews. Also I'm excited to discover a line that might not get nerfed by restrictions and I can feel free to fall in love with them.
    purplebird7, now I don't want you to think I'm not a generous sort. I give things away at the drop of a hat, in fact...a whole bottle of KM, vintage men's miniatures, other stuff. But the idea of parting with even one Jovoy or Slumberhouse sample is almost physically painful unless/until I have bottles to replace them!

    Quote Originally Posted by TNBLUEMIKE View Post
    Excellent reviews Scent Fan. Thank you the information as it was very informative to me especially the Jovoy line which I haven't experienced just yet. I know most of this line you reviewed were designated for the female. Do you think Ambre Premier and Gardez Moi have any unisex attributes.
    I'm not sure who these perfumes are meant to be for, but speaking for myself I am now disregarding the masculine/feminine labels and buying what I like. Gardez Moi might be a little flowery for some guys, but it wouldn't disturb me in the least to smell it on a man. Ambre Premier can easily be worn by both sexes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    ScentFan, feels like you are so very busy with your sniffing, makes me think about getting my b*tt in gear and start sniffing more myself. Besides, in the time that you are not sniffing, you are writing about the fragrances, and not one liners like I would after the initial blast, but full-blown, well thought-out and overall enjoyable reviews. Please keep them coming.

    (LOL @ An Unwashed Man!)

    Much much respect.
    So glad you like them, Twolf. I like reading your stuff, too. Much respect to you as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian_Towers View Post
    Why is this in the Female forum?

    Interesting reads about Jovoy's, more stuff to my sample list, again...
    Uh..uh...because I don't know what's masculine or feminine yet, or where to put things? Hope you enjoy, Brian, I certainly did!

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Gotta be careful here. Brian, where would you like this thread to be? In General Fragrance Discussion? We sometimes are having fun here too, BTW. (There is no TonyT that often, either)It is the first time I read about Jovoy fragrances, especially interested in their L'Arbre (Fig) fragrance..

    ScentFan, what do you think about it? (I have to ask you, you are the OP).
    No, idea, Twolf. Put this wherever you think it should be.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by TNBLUEMIKE View Post
    Excellent reviews Scent Fan. Thank you the information as it was very informative to me especially the Jovoy line which I haven't experienced just yet. I know most of this line you reviewed were designated for the female. Do you think Ambre Premier and Gardez Moi have any unisex attributes.

    Oh, TNBLUEMIKE, I didn't see that on Luckyscent they're all listed as unisex except Gardez-Moi (feminine) and Les Jeux Sons Faits (masculine).
    Last edited by ScentFan; 6th December 2013 at 03:17 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Thanks again for the reply I will look over Luckyscents bio on each. Also, I enjoyed your Slumberhouse selection reviews.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Thank you, ScentFan! I think we will keep this thread here on the Ladies' Side, to increase the traffic and possibly draw more interest to the forum in particular and to enthusiastic sniffing in general. Correct?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Ha ha! I was waiting for the Slumberhouse sniffs! This house seems to be a love or hate, but I just find it such an interesting ride. Glad you enjoyed them. I own P and O, and love it. Also Ore, which is right up my alley when I am not being prim and proper with my Chanels. Thick, rich and demanding of attention. A word of caution - if you want one, buy it, as they tend to go away on availability at the perfumers fancy.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    A few months ago I was given a Slumberhouse sample set with the new extraits with a remark 'Probably nothing there for you!'. However, I found myself falling in love with Jeke. It's all I ever wanted (it seems) from a tobacco fragrance (in a leathery setting) - Perique tobacco, autumnal smokiness and a benzoin drydown to die for. I am so happy I settled with a big boy's bottle.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Until I smell the rest of the Jovoys and the Cordays, I'm left wanting to own Ambre Premier and Gardez-Moi. To me, they're all masterpieces, but these I especially love.
    I was quite impressed with Gardez-moi, even though it's not my cup of tea. Duchaufour's been a slave to scent briefs for too long, so it was nice to see him break out a little and he did a nice job here. It green, but sidesteps the vegetable stand aesthetic that he's been so attached to for a while. The best from this line for me though is La Liturgue des Heures which is maybe a bit redundant if you already own some of the standard incense scents like Avignon etc. It injects a boozy facet, but otherwise it's just a solid, articulate liturgical incense.

    As far as Slumbehouse goes, well I'm a bit of a fan. Out of the one's you tried, I find Sova to be the most indicative of the house style, but Norne's probably the best forest floor scent available right now, and Ore was recently given a facelift into what you see now, and it's meticulous.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    GROSSMITH

    Since it's not 3 am yet (the time I seem to be going to bed, lately), I still have time to sniff. Let me round out this thread with these three I happen to have, since this house is touted by the Jovoy store.

    About the house: Founded in London in 1835, they've created scents for royal occasions, including Victoria's Diamond Jubilee (hey, my grandfather was in London for that!). After having been out of family ownership for 30 years, the house is now owned by the founder's (John Grossmith) great great grandson, Simon Brooke. These three fragrances are a revival of their Classic Collection. They've created four modern fragrances in the new Black Collection and plan more.

    Hasu-No-Hana. (Lotus lily in Japanese) Their website says it's Japanese lotus lily with Chypre and Oriental facets on a woody base. Be still my heart. I love all those. Ah, it's clean and bright, just as they say. On my skin it's luxurious, but do I once again detect that mysterious ingredient that has put me off some other great perfumes? Something suffocating and potentially sneeze-inducing? It's better in the drydown, but I've smelled newer versions of this approach that appeal to me more, especially Caron's Bellodgia. However, this too is a beauty and to be treasured because it led the way.

    Phūl-Nānā. (Hindi for lovely flower). Per the website, a combination sweet floral and aromatic Fougère in a woody base that paved the way for the Orientals that followed. Sniffing myself unconscious. Distinguished, fragrant charm. If I'd never smelled its descendants, I could live happily with this. However, now I detect it has a bit of that suffocating note. Reaching for my Bellodgia to compare. Nope, Bellodgia doesn’t suffocate in the least.

    Sherm-el-Nessim. (Arabic for smelling the breeze.) “Reprises the original orris formula using Florentine Iris...Created in 1906 , this rich, luxurious creation typifies the L’Origan style with its warm, soft, powdery, floral aspect. A scent which personifies the Edwardian era in which femininity was fêted (and also locked up in private gardens with books and lap dogs).” Sniffing. Beautiful, beautiful! It rivals Bellodgia, except this one also makes me want to sneeze. It’s might be something in the top notes because the dry down is much better. Something powdery, I think that eventually keeps my nose at a distance. What a shame. Those without my mysterious malady can enjoy this. It’s certainly in the Bellodgia/Creed Jasmin Imperatrie Eugenie realm and may have inspired them.

    In sum, to avoid sneezing I won’t be buying these, but they are wonderful.


    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    A few months ago I was given a Slumberhouse sample set with the new extraits with a remark 'Probably nothing there for you!'. However, I found myself falling in love with Jeke. It's all I ever wanted (it seems) from a tobacco fragrance (in a leathery setting) - Perique tobacco, autumnal smokiness and a benzoin drydown to die for. I am so happy I settled with a big boy's bottle.
    I think it will be Jeke for me, too, along with Pear + Olive.

    Quote Originally Posted by cello View Post
    Ha ha! I was waiting for the Slumberhouse sniffs! This house seems to be a love or hate, but I just find it such an interesting ride. Glad you enjoyed them. I own P and O, and love it. Also Ore, which is right up my alley when I am not being prim and proper with my Chanels. Thick, rich and demanding of attention. A word of caution - if you want one, buy it, as they tend to go away on availability at the perfumers fancy.
    I can see why some wouldn't prefer these. They're not floral at all, really. However, I like the plant contents and that they've let tobacco be tobacco and wood wood, etc., instead of disguising them with florals. It's another perfume dimension to enjoy. Thanks for the tip.

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Thank you, ScentFan! I think we will keep this thread here on the Ladies' Side, to increase the traffic and possibly draw more interest to the forum in particular and to enthusiastic sniffing in general. Correct?
    Sounds good.

    Quote Originally Posted by TNBLUEMIKE View Post
    Thanks again for the reply I will look over Luckyscents bio on each. Also, I enjoyed your Slumberhouse selection reviews.
    You're welcome. I was just floored, so it's more like Slumberhouse did the writing for me.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Fab reviews again, ScentFan! Something of a Slumberhouse fan here too. It's hard to choose, but keep revisiting them - most of them are, to some extent, shape-shifters (in a good way!) and a lot of the detail shows up only with subsequent wearings.

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    ... Well, Sova isn't exactly that, but it has the same effect. I don't see it on their website.
    Sova has been discontinued, which is why it's no longer listed. Some places do still carry stock though, so that's the one to snap up quickly if you like it. Personally, it's my favourite of a very strong field.

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    I'm not sure who these perfumes are meant to be for, but speaking for myself I am now disregarding the masculine/feminine labels and buying what I like.
    Good!

  15. #15

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Agree - please keep going ScentFan.

    I've missed out on wearing some really great classics in the past because it didn't occur to me when younger to be more adventurous and ignore the marketing labels.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by lpp View Post
    Agree - please keep going ScentFan.

    I've missed out on wearing some really great classics in the past because it didn't occur to me when younger to be more adventurous and ignore the marketing labels.
    I will. Who knew a nose could give such pleasure? (I mean besides everyone here)

    Quote Originally Posted by rowan- View Post
    Fab reviews again, ScentFan!...


    Sova has been discontinued, which is why it's no longer listed. Some places do still carry stock though, so that's the one to snap up quickly if you like it. Personally, it's my favourite of a very strong field.



    Good!
    Thanks! Oh my! Back to buy mode.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Thanks! Oh my! Back to buy mode.
    Unfortunately it's going to be a fact of life if you like Slumberhouse! Something about the extreme rarity of some of the materials used.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Jovoy (cont.)

    LA LITURGIE DES HEURES. (Oriental Wood) Let me not be remiss in discussing this unisex beauty which showed up among my samples. Translated to Liturgy of the Hours, it's a woody fragrance that appeals. I expected to sneeze myself silly but, no. This perfume causes no disturbance as it wends its way up my nostrils, making me think of what a mosque and a monastery would smell like, if combined. It's a comforting, at once exotic and spiritual scent, perfect for meditation and other contemplations of the divine, heavenly or earthly. Its non-flowery beauty could work well on a man, too. LuckyScent says it has: Cypress, incense, olibanum, cistus, myrrh, musk. Fragrantica says: Top notes: fresh, green, cypress. Heart notes: incense, olibanum, cistus, myrrh. Base notes: musk. This definitely goes on my buy list. Must get samples of the rest of the Jovoys.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 10th December 2013 at 03:51 AM.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    I think La Liturgie is the best from the line, to be honest. It's a great incense, although might be redundant if you already have stuff like Avignon in your collection.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    I think La Liturgie is the best from the line, to be honest. It's a great incense, although might be redundant if you already have stuff like Avignon in your collection.
    Just building a collection so I don't have Avignon. Do you think it's better?

  21. #21

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Well, if you are looking for an Incense, that's a whole new thread, there are lots of good ones. For me, Full Incense is the one to get instead of Avignon, but I prefer the dry spicy-ambery Incense from L'Air du Desert Marocain or the incensy patchouli from Bohemian Spice, because in my opinion, incense alone is kind of boring after 10 minutes.
    We want a 'Niche' forum.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    No problem if you want to keep your samples. I understand that perfectly well. I can get my own. Luckyscent has quite a few Jovoy samples for sale but only two Slumberhouses. Is there a better place?

  23. #23

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Just building a collection so I don't have Avignon. Do you think it's better?
    Avignon is better, I think. It's pretty much the standard for that genre, and probably the best reference incense fragrance on the market (even though there are technically "better" incense scents, such as Norma Kamali)

  24. #24

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    No problem if you want to keep your samples. I understand that perfectly well. I can get my own. Luckyscent has quite a few Jovoy samples for sale but only two Slumberhouses. Is there a better place?
    Hang on a couple of days? I hope I've found a mini set and I think I'm getting gifts of Slumberhouse FBs. I'd love to do a sample pass if that's the case.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Avignon is better, I think. It's pretty much the standard for that genre, and probably the best reference incense fragrance on the market (even though there are technically "better" incense scents, such as Norma Kamali)
    Will check them both out. Thanks, deadidol.



    Quote Originally Posted by Brian_Towers View Post
    Well, if you are looking for an Incense, that's a whole new thread, there are lots of good ones. For me, Full Incense is the one to get instead of Avignon, but I prefer the dry spicy-ambery Incense from L'Air du Desert Marocain or the incensy patchouli from Bohemian Spice, because in my opinion, incense alone is kind of boring after 10 minutes.
    I ADORE L'Air du Desert Marocain! Good idea to investigate incenses separately. Thanks.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 10th December 2013 at 09:41 PM.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Oooooo! No pressure, but count me in if you do it.
    I promise to use only a tiny bit before sending it on and to write reviews on this thread.
    I'll PM you my address. Take your time. Think about it for awhile and decide (if and when) to start.

    Last time I did this, I collected a list of addresses and included them in the package. Each person who received it scratched off his or her name and sent it to the next closest address. That package went around the world!

    Another way to do it is spontaneously. You can post on this thread, seeking a volunteer, and send it to the first person who responds. Then that person does the same. It's easier, but the biggest drawback is that you have no idea where the package will go, and if someone gets unmotivated to send it on, it will stall.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    All but one of my Slumberhouse samples and FB's are here! I even have a Zahd sample. Quick, quick sniffs of the new ones:

    MARE. I'm beginning to conclude these perfumes are national treasures that need to be preserved in a museum somewhere. Hard to ID individual ingredients they blend so well, but is there a top note of wintergreen, or menthol that quickly blends into whatever lovely other things are there? Cedar? Some sort of wood, anyway. Smelling this, I picture genius at work, mixing absolutely improbable things to create something unique. Can't find a listing of the notes anywhere, so I'll wing it and give impressions. I'm bundled tight on a winter's day, walking down a shopping street in the Alps. Wonderful smells come from the shops, dominated by the green scent of evergreens. I go into a shop and stand before a wood-burning potbellied stove. I'm handed a cup of mulled something-or-other. Don't know what I'm smelling, but my nose is very happy. If I ever get my hands on a bottle of this, I'll wear it, even if it's only around the house.

    ZAHD. Sweetish and candy-like on first sniff, then the excitement starts. Oops, dinner's ready. Will report later on the drydown and and on Vikt.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    How much of those Slumberhouse fragrances do you think are natural ingredients?

  29. #29

    Default Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Purplebird: it depends on which fragrance. He uses both synthetics and naturals, but the naturals he uses are incredibly rare and obscenely expensive. Norne is the only one that is all absolutes, though. Zahd, for example, has a commissioned attar in it, and the formula could never be recreated.

    Zahd's not sweet to me at all though -- it's very tart upfront, but no sweetness at all. It's bitter cranberry concrete and champaca wax over pure mysore.
    Last edited by deadidol; 13th December 2013 at 05:58 PM.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    All but one of my Slumberhouse samples and FB's are here! I even have a Zahd sample.
    Congrats! I must've missed it somewhere though - which FBs did you get?
    It can be fun to sniff without notes - that's when a real diversity of impressions emerge! I personally don't get the mulled whatever with Mare - it's rather green and strange to me and I happily wear it out of the house anyway. Still waiting for a whiff of the final Zahd!

  31. #31

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Just applied some of my Mare sample - astringent, green, herbal, woody so far.
    This pic, from the Slumberhouse Twitter feed, shows the cask remains of the 'Mare soaked Orris butter' after bottling the fragrance and seems appropriate to what I'm getting at the moment!


    BaSmH0BCcAAfYG3.jpg-large.jpg

    Edit - Some hours later & it's still here and quite delightful, the astringency didn't last long, the orris certainly has.
    Last edited by lpp; 13th December 2013 at 11:34 PM.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Purplebird: it depends on which fragrance. He uses both synthetics and naturals, but the naturals he uses are incredibly rare and obscenely expensive. Norne is the only one that is all absolutes, though. Zahd, for example, has a commissioned attar in it, and the formula could never be recreated.

    Zahd's not sweet to me at all though -- it's very tart upfront, but no sweetness at all. It's bitter cranberry concrete and champaca wax over pure mysore.

    Rare ingredients? No wonder the "limited editions" come and go from that house. Those will be out of my price range.

    I do think that many absolutes qualify as complete fragrances by themselves, but most of the time they have off-notes that ruin them for this purpose. I bet Slumberhouse uses fractional naturals. That helps make them smell better.

    It takes skill to blend natural ingredients in such a way that the general public will accept them, having developed a taste for sweetness. I tried to make all-natural perfume for years and never came up with anything that lasted long enough or smelled sweet enough to wear confidently in public.

    Maybe Slumberhouse will help change people's attitudes about what constitutes personal fragrance!

  33. #33

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Rare ingredients? No wonder the "limited editions" come and go from that house. Those will be out of my price range.

    I do think that many absolutes qualify as complete fragrances by themselves, but most of the time they have off-notes that ruin them for this purpose. I bet Slumberhouse uses fractional naturals. That helps make them smell better.

    It takes skill to blend natural ingredients in such a way that the general public will accept them, having developed a taste for sweetness. I tried to make all-natural perfume for years and never came up with anything that lasted long enough or smelled sweet enough to wear confidently in public.

    Maybe Slumberhouse will help change people's attitudes about what constitutes personal fragrance!
    Oudy notes, for example, are commonplace now, so attitudes change all the time - and having been brought up on mainly French classics it wasn't a huge leap to detect the quality in these.
    In fact, it was possibly quite helpful.
    Last edited by lpp; 14th December 2013 at 09:57 PM.

  34. #34
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    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Zahd is the one that most peeked my interest. I've heard it is a good saffron.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    SLUMBERHOUSE SAMPLE PASS

    I can do a Slumberhouse sample pass consisting of:

    Jeke - 1 ml
    Pear + Olive - 1 ml
    Ore - 2+ ml
    Sova - 2+ ml
    Vikt - 2+ ml

    Can't bring myself to part with my 1 ml Norne or Mare and Zahd samples yet!

    Purplebird7, you're first. Any other interest?

  36. #36

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by rowan- View Post
    Congrats! I must've missed it somewhere though - which FBs did you get?
    It can be fun to sniff without notes - that's when a real diversity of impressions emerge! I personally don't get the mulled whatever with Mare - it's rather green and strange to me and I happily wear it out of the house anyway. Still waiting for a whiff of the final Zahd!
    The FBs are Jeke and Pear + Olive, one a gift. Trying again. I may have transposed the names. Mare is quite green, almost menthol at first. It has an undertone of what now smells like honey to me, which is what made me picture a hot, mulled drink. With Zahd I'm torn between thinking cotton candy and Caron's Bellodgia or Bal a Versailles. What starts out quite strongly candyish to my nose (I understand it's cranberry) settles into a sophisticated, classic near-oriental, though the cotton candy refuses to go entirely away. It's a strange scent. Both are. I plan to sniff them a few days. They're also both interesting and accomplished.
    --
    Found this description of Zahd by Josh. "Zahd incorporates notes of cranberry, champaca flower, benzoin, plum, pink lotus, fir, cocoa, tolu, gromwell, wine ether, mysore sandalwood, cherry, incense and oak to create a dark, velvety berry scent"

    The first thing that hits me are probably the cranberry, cherry and plum which together give a candyish note. This subsides, without every going away completely.
    Last edited by ScentFan; 15th December 2013 at 06:33 AM.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    As a huge fan of Slumberhouse, I'll be more than glad to send samples - however, I do not have any vials / decant supplies.

    If someone from either Canada or south of here can send me in vials, I'll be more than glad to supply the below - not sure how much is reqd on these sample passes (hopefully not more than 5ml??):

    Ore
    Norne
    Jeke
    Sova
    Pear & Olive
    Mare
    Kere
    Grev
    Flou
    Sana
    Baque
    Rume
    Vikt

  38. #38

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by danieq View Post
    Zahd is the one that most peeked my interest. I've heard it is a good saffron.
    Zahd isn't saffron at all, so tread with caution! It's cranberry, champaca, mysore, and a commissioned attar that's got anise, pink lotus, and ouds in it. It also sold out within 24 hours (it's a limited run).

  39. #39

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Rare ingredients? No wonder the "limited editions" come and go from that house. Those will be out of my price range.
    Considering the cost of production, his stuff's very inexpensive -- especially if you compare it to other lines using similar materials. He doesn't use franctionations -- mainly absolutes, concretes and SCO2 extractions, all combined with weird synths.

  40. #40

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Considering the cost of production, his stuff's very inexpensive -- especially if you compare it to other lines using similar materials. He doesn't use franctionations -- mainly absolutes, concretes and SCO2 extractions, all combined with weird synths.
    This! I find his prices to be surprisingly inexpensive for what you are getting.

  41. #41

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Totally - and beautifully presented.

  42. #42

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by badarun View Post
    As a huge fan of Slumberhouse, I'll be more than glad to send samples - however, I do not have any vials / decant supplies.

    If someone from either Canada or south of here can send me in vials, I'll be more than glad to supply the below - not sure how much is reqd on these sample passes (hopefully not more than 5ml??):
    Holy mackerel! You're on! Thank you so much. That is very generous of you.

    I will send you vials. PM me your address, and I will send the vials with a return address envelope in there. Do you need $ for postage?

    ScentFan: When I get these, I will include them in the total sample pass.



    Lots of emoticons today. Excited.




    I

  43. #43

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    He doesn't use franctionations -- mainly absolutes, concretes and SCO2 extractions, all combined with weird synths.
    Fascinating. Thanks for that interesting fact.
    I just got through talking with darkdreams about the IFRA regs and how we, as consumers can support these perfumers who insist on using natural ingredients (also combined with synthetics) to keep the artistry and quality alive in perfumery.

  44. #44

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Hi, Purplebird7. Not to worry, Badarun and I have already made arrangements. I'm sending him materials and will be arranging the sample pass. It will be my first, so I'm looking forward to it.


    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Holy mackerel! You're on! Thank you so much. That is very generous of you.

    I will send you vials. PM me your address, and I will send the vials with a return address envelope in there. Do you need $ for postage?

    ScentFan: When I get these, I will include them in the total sample pass.



    Lots of emoticons today. Excited.




    I
    Last edited by ScentFan; 15th December 2013 at 04:01 PM.

  45. #45

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Purplebird7, apparently you want to make arrangements about what to do with my samples and Badaruns, so why don't I bow out and leave you to it.

  46. #46

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    O.K., confused here - so ScentFan is making a list of participants & has organised this with Badarun.
    Please bear in mind that the samples will not stretch to many participants.

  47. #47

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by lpp View Post
    O.K., confused here - so ScentFan is making a list of participants & has organised this with Badarun.
    Please bear in mind that the samples will not stretch to many participants.
    I'm confused, too. I decided to do a sample pass and intended to organize it myself. Badarun offered to add samples I don't have. Next thing I know, we are both supposed to send our samples to purplebird7 who will organize things. I never asked for or agreed to that, but perhaps I'm missing something.

  48. #48

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Suggest proceeding with your much awaited first sample pass (Congrats!) as originally arranged between yourself & Badarun in order to save further confusion.
    A list of the sending order, when decided, will keep everyone in the loop.

    If my country were not so averse to receiving dangerous foreign parcels it would be lovely to join this one but it's way too risky!
    It would be possible to join in with those bits that have reached this isolated isle if you'll have me as a 'partial' participant?

    Good luck & looking forward to reading everyone's impressions.

    p.s. - for the sake of accuracy, my bottles/samples are all 2013 versions unless otherwise stated.
    Last edited by lpp; 15th December 2013 at 11:30 PM.

  49. #49

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Sorry, I normally don't check threads where I've posted, unless I was waiting for someone's comments - so i didn't check this till now.

    my offer remains, I will be glad to supply the other samples of Slumberhouse not already listed by Scentfan - as i mentioned in pm's to a few - it will be great whoever sends the decant supplies - if u can name them & tape them to the vials (I am not into decanting, so I don't trust how well I can do it & I'm lazy too)...

  50. #50

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Thank you, badarun.

  51. #51

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Okay, then. I'd better start another thread after Badarun and I consult. Question: how many participants will a 1 ml sample support? I have larger samples, too, but this will tell me how to organize them.

    Quote Originally Posted by lpp View Post
    Suggest proceeding with your much awaited first sample pass (Congrats!) as originally arranged between yourself & Badarun in order to save further confusion.
    A list of the sending order, when decided, will keep everyone in the loop.

    If my country were not so averse to receiving dangerous foreign parcels it would be lovely to join this one but it's way too risky!
    It would be possible to join in with those bits that have reached this isolated isle if you'll have me as a 'partial' participant?

    Good luck & looking forward to reading everyone's impressions.

    p.s. - for the sake of accuracy, my bottles/samples are all 2013 versions unless otherwise stated.

  52. #52

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    1 ml will probably not be sufficient, ScentFan.
    2 ml is probably fine for two people, given that I've bought & subsequently passed on 2ml samples. These are not linear and should not just be sniffed from a vial, but others may wish to comment.

  53. #53

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    I can give max 5 ml per sample, I don't want to go above that. More than the cost, it's just that many of the Slumberhouse's are not available anymore...

    Also, the Vikt I own currently is the older version. (I did order the new version, but have requested Josh @ SHouse to ship both Vikt & Zahd together, so in most probability, i don't think i'll get them before 3rd wk Jan next yr).

  54. #54

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    It's an extremely generous offer, badarun - this isn't a normal pass by any means - which is another reason that it needs very careful consideration.

  55. #55

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Okay, then. I'd better start another thread after Badarun and I consult. Question: how many participants will a 1 ml sample support? I have larger samples, too, but this will tell me how to organize them.
    As you probably know already, they are very concentrated and potent beasts - for most of the scents, 1-2 sprays are more than enough for a full wearing and will last you the entire day, so the samples may actually go a longer way than thought!

    badarun, that's a fantastically generous offer of samples. Will sit out because I've tried most if not all of them, but will be following the thread with interest.

  56. #56
    Basenotes Plus
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    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    1 spray off a sample is more than enough for one full wearing, personally.

  57. #57

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Will people new to the range need to do more than one wearing, though?

  58. #58

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    I think the best thing for me to do is let ScentFan and badarun organize this. Sorry for the confusion you two. I didn't mean to take over. Just got home from work and saw what a mess I made of things.
    Okeee. Please proceed in whatever way you see fit. I'm happy to be participating. My apologies for the mess.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 16th December 2013 at 09:36 PM.

  59. #59
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    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    Quote Originally Posted by lpp View Post
    Will people new to the range need to do more than one wearing, though?
    If they don't bathe, it will last for a week... or so I'm told.

  60. #60

    Default Re: Diptyque, Jovoy, Slumberhouse Sniff-Fest

    I do own some, juanderer, but have no experience of the thoroughness of the explorations done by members in sample passes and would hate to see a precious resource wasted.
    Do you think that everyone will get to appreciate these after one wearing, or should one err on the side of caution?

    Edit - my recently purchased sample of Mare, for example, was not a 'must have' on first sniff but I'm thinking that it is now - after three testings.
    Last edited by lpp; 16th December 2013 at 09:16 PM.

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