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    Default CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    The experiment is back! Everyone, please begin posting here.

    This thread is being re-created while the data is located and moved from Huddlr.

    An exciting experiment is being conducted by the Profumo Friends Club. As you may know, La Via del Profumo is located in Italy and uses all-natural ingredients.

    In this experiment, we are using hyraceum to make store-bought, commercial fragrances smell more animalic or more "vintage" -- like many of them used to smell before real, animalic ingredients were excluded from reformulations. We are wearing these "corrected" fragrances in public to see how people react to them, and we are writing about how they make us feel when we wear them.

    We apologize to those of you whose wonderful posts are missing from this thread. Basenotes is busy looking for them. The original posts will be inserted when they are located and transferred from Huddler.

    If your post is missing, please consider re-writing it in the meantime. We can always replace it with the original, later.
    Eule, we miss your posts about your experiments very much. Keep hoping with us that they will be found soon.

    Profumo said:

    All the free kits of Hyraceum are on their way to you.
    Some will receive it within 4 or 5 days, for others in the US it will take about 2 weeks.

    Although the offer for free kits is gone, whoever would like to join in the experiment and write his findings here can purchase it at the reasonable price of 12 euros at this page.

    The instructions for using the kit are at the same page.

    I shall be travelling in a place poorly connected until the end of this month. Please forgive me if I do not answer your posts until my return.
    Have a nice time exploring the science of the nose with the Hyraceum kit.

    Edited by Profumo - 10/16/13 at 3:10pm


    10/14/13 at 4:14pm
    purplebird7 said:

    I'm the first one!

    Received my hyraceum (plus the gorgeous La Via del Profumo fragrances I ordered, which I will also review).

    SPOILER ALERT: Do not read if you want to avoid being influenced by my comments and want to try it yourself before reading.

    ..........................

    First impression on the hyraceum, alone:

    Warm. Furry. Not exactly fecal, certainly not in the way that civet is. Some urine notes, too.

    Haylike, outdoorsy, slightly bitter. I'm getting an image of nighttime, not grass drying in the sun. This makes me feel like I am in a dark place that is mysterious and wild, yet not dangerous. In some ways, it is more... friendly, not aggressive. (I'm trying to decide why I feel this way, but I think it is because this animal is not a meat-eater.)

    Furthermore, in thinking about sexuality, this one makes me feel private, like there is a proper place, a safe place to go for such things. I'm not getting exhibitionist feelings off of it.

    I look forward to trying this in combination with my commercial fragrances!

    At this point, I would like to wait for the other participants to post their first impressions before carrying on with the experiment.

    Fun is on it's way!

    NOTE: I let my cat smell this. She did something she never does: She closed her eyes while she sniffed it, and she took a long time sniffing, all the while with her eyes still closed, as if she were thinking very hard, trying to remember something. Then her tail stiffened, held out horizontally, and it jerked one time, all the way to the tip, and she backed away. This is the same cat that I let smell castoreum, and she ran out of the room.

    Edited by purplebird7 - 10/14/13 at 4:29pm


    10/14/13 at 10:47pm
    Profumo said:

    Dear Purplebird, I am sure that there is no problem for your reporting your experiments as soon as you made some observations. It may help the others when they receive their package. I remind you that you will find some suggestions about the way to proceed at this page.

    Edited by Profumo - 10/16/13 at 3:11pm


    10/16/13 at 12:12pm
    purplebird7 said:

    Okay, here I go!

    First choice for fragrance, Jolie Madame. This fragrance is really fun to wear, and I think women from the new generation would like it. All it needs is a push from the marketing department. It is a beauty -- dazzlingly strong even in the EDT that I bought six or seven years ago. By today's standards, it is pretty sexy. It once made a married man blush when he smelled my wrist. However, it is nowhere near as leathery as the old Chanel Cuir de Russie, which smelled of a horse stable and tackroom. Rather, Jolie Madame is a salty, suede-like Chypre with huge violet and gardenia notes.

    Okay, lets grrrrrrr this one up!

    Hyraceum added. One drop per ml. Not enough for me! Two drops. That's better. It blends excellently with the leather of Jolie Madame. Then, later, I try to overdose with 3 drops.

    Pros:
    A. Hyraceum acts as a bridge, connecting the fruity, violet accord with the Chypre base and accentuating the leather nicely.
    B. Darker, denser, more serious fragrance, but not a lot of difference in character.
    C. Hyraceum "hides" well -- better than civet. Its presence is not as obvious or jarring, and I sense that it would be tolerated better by people in public. It is more well-behaved, socially!

    Cons:
    A. What little remains of the oakmoss in this version of Jolie Madame is buried by the hyraceum. The saltiness of the oakmoss is reduced by the animalic note. Also, if you like lighter, happier fragrances with florals that "separate out" as you smell them, then don't add hyraceum.
    B. As I reach the point of overdosing, the entire fragrance "flattens out" and loses character. This surprises me. I thought it would be most compatible in a leather fragrance, but the truth is, you have to be careful how much you add. This little animal is surprisingly powerful, even though it hides from the notice of humans.

    Second up for experimentation, Coco EDT. Fabulous surprise! I doubted that this would work, but I like it better than in the Jolie Madame. It changes things more. The entire focus of this perfume goes from foody to sexual. First, let me explain, I'm working with EDT, which has no animalics whatsoever; it's all peachy, rose, clove, and vanilla. It's something you would put on your mouth, like lipstick or candy.

    Here comes the animal!

    Oh, my goodness. I can add more hyraceum to Coco than to Jolie Madame!

    Pros:
    A. Stands out well in this composition. Makes an amazing difference in the character of the fragrance. No longer foody but rather unexpected -- sweet and sexual at the same time.
    B. Amazing juxtaposition with the sweetness. A certain "saltiness" emerges in counterpoint. The sweetness becomes wilder, like honey.
    C. The entire fragrance takes on heft and presence. The hyraceum amplifies the overall scent. It is truly changed. This is another surprise. I thought Coco would tolerate the least hyraceum, not the most.

    Cons:
    A. If you like the yummy vanilla base in Coco EDT, then avoid the hyraceum. The vanilla bends under pressure and bows out early in the game, and you never get it back, not even in the drydown.
    B. Gourmand tendencies disappear. It's either Coco in a dress at teatime with cakes -- or Coco in furs, surrounded by bees and animals.


    Third in line, Aromatics Elixir. Biggest surprise of all. I thought it would take lots and lots of hyraceum before I would be able to smell it, but, no. The animalics really stand out in the mix. This is a good match. I once had a solid parfum of Aromatics Elixir, and it had a slug of civet in the base. It was wonderful. Of course, many people find Aromatics Elixir offensive, even without the animalics. For those people, it would only become less tolerable. For me, this is just tons of fun to add hyraceum. Just read on...

    Pros:
    A. This fragrance is made for animalic notes. Brilliant combination! My favorite! If anyone has AO, please try this. I highly recommended adding this ingredient!
    B. The character of the fragrance remains the same. Not much hyraceum is needed to "amp up" the sexiness of Aromatics Elixir. This surprises me. I thought that the herbal chamomile, the black rose, the dirty patchouli, the smoky vetiver would be too strong for the hyraceum. Instead, they wait, with their welcoming arms open for the arrival of the beast.
    C. The hyraceum isn't obvious. No matter whether you add a little or a lot, it makes this fragrance more interesting. It melts into the composition, making it warm and friendly. The sharp, woody notes become furry and funky. I love it! I bury my nose in this. It's fascinating.
    D. Makes me feel wild and natural, don't-give-a-damn, and crazy.

    Cons:
    None for me!

    Disclaimer: I cannot wear strong fragrances at work or at home because neither my boss nor my husband tolerates them. This makes it hard for me to discover other people's reactions, out in the field. I hope the other experimenters can further the research in that area.

    These three fragrances that I tried today are strong on their own -- and I feel apologetic when I wear them, not wanting to invade other people's airspace, even without the hyraceum.

    Next time I will try softer fragrances -- those that I can wear in public. I predict good results because, so far, the best thing about hyraceum is that I think it adds sexiness without overtly fecal notes.

    Edited by purplebird7 - 10/16/13 at 2:17pm


    10/16/13 at 12:59pm
    Profumo said:

    Fantastic experiments Purplebird, it is starting very well thanks to your cusiosity. I understand your shyness to blow the nose of people for the sake of our experiment. Therte is a solution, you can use the scarf trick described at this page. probably a very good way is to keep the perfumed scarf or handkerchief in your purse and to take it out purposely in the situations where you want to suscitate and observe the reactions of others.



    Edited by Profumo - 10/16/13 at 3:11pm
    10/16/13 at 2:22pm


    purplebird7 said:

    I'm sorry, but I don't find the information about the scarf. Can you repeat it, briefly, in this thread?
    If I am guessing right, the fragrance would be applied to cloth and merely taken out briefly for another person to smell, as if by accident. That sounds like a clever solution -- and one that will keep me from getting in trouble with people!
    10/16/13 at 2:27pm
    purplebird7 said:

    I got so excited about my success with Aromatics Elixir that I tried Montale Black Aoud, thinking that it would be good like AE. "Ah," I thought. "It has a musk base. That could be animalic. It has rose and patchouli like AE. It will probably work."


    Wrong, wrong, wrong.
    Don't even try it. What a mess. Poor little hyraceum got lost. The only way I could tell he was there was hear to him sneeze.
    Don't waste your hyraceum.


    10/16/13 at 3:13pmProfumo said:

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by purplebird7

    I'm sorry, but I don't find the information about the scarf. Can you repeat it, briefly, in this thread?
    If I am guessing right, the fragrance would be applied to cloth and merely taken out briefly for another person to smell, as if by accident. That sounds like a clever solution -- and one that will keep me from getting in trouble with people!
    I am sorry. I have corrected the link. You can now read this page.


    10/17/13 at 6:29am
    purplebird7 said:

    Thank you for repairing the link. That is such a clever idea! I will try it.


    Later...

    I set a trap, putting the cloth on the shelf next to the cloth used for wiping off the whiteboard. My goal was to see if people would select the scented cloth instead of the usual one. However, nobody paid attention to either cloth today. Perhaps the air-handling system at work is too powerful and efficient.

    Edited by purplebird7 - 10/17/13 at 9:53am
    10/17/13 at 10:23am
    purplebird7 said:

    Today I tried Dior Addict. I never experienced this as a "dirty" fragrance, although I think it was marketed that way. To me, it was a deep vanilla with a weird, plastic-y floral -- overall, a sweet and narcotic fragrance. There was a skin-like facet that smelled warm and human, but in a similar way that tuberose is reminiscent of flesh. However, the newer version of Addict is more gourmand than before. Instead of smelling like vanilla and sex, it smells more citrus-y floral, followed by vanilla and coconut cream pie. Make no mistake, I still like Addict; but in its current form, it is more like an Oriental gourmand.

    So, I considered this: Addiction is more about sex than food. Addicts don't eat. All they care about is their next fix. Actually, they don't care about sex, either. Their hyperactive sex lives occur because they must prostitute themselves for drugs. It's a sad scenario. Yet, if this is what addiction is about, let's see how Addict works with an added element of sexuality.

    Adds hyraceum, dirties up Addict. Results: Puzzling. Not as good as I expected.

    Pros:
    Acts as an overall "strengthener" to the fragrance.

    Cons:
    At first, the hyraceum is repulsive with the vanilla. The same way it affects the base of Coco, it makes the vanilla recede and does away with the "yummy" aspects of vanilla. However, Coco has many different notes (including persistent florals, fruits, and spices) while Addict always ends up smelling mainly of vanilla. I dislike the way hyraceum smells with vanilla; it clashes, it's too bitter.

    Changes the character from gourmand to animalic, but this works best when the fragrance leans in that direction. Otherwise, it seems to fight with the natural tendency of the fragrance.


    Update...
    Later, it begins to blend better. Addict is so predominantly vanilla, that it eventually does "recover" from the shock of the animalic note, which loses its influence. Then the vanilla note overtakes the fragrance once again. Still, the trajectory is clumsy and ill-fitting. I prefer Addict without this note.

    I will continue to wear this fragrance and see if people react differently to it today.

    Edited by purplebird7 - 10/17/13 at 10:42am


    10/18/13 at 6:01am
    scintilly said:

    Purplebird...amAzing insights and perceptions here. Greatly enjoying your perfume journeys with hyraceum. I'm on this programme but for now am dabbing onto a finger to then dab onto my perfumed wrist. So it's not precise but still gives me some idea. To read your investigations is greatly helping me to think in a more articulate way. I was wondering vaguely about vanilla and must try Angelique Noire tonight. I have on Chergui right now with a dab of the H and it deepens it gloriously but I think takes the rose and some of the spicy edge. I've noticed this before in Feminite du Bois..
    I look forward to reading more of your experiments.
    Great Stuff.
    Thanks


    10/18/13 at 1:53pm
    purplebird7 said:

    scintilly:
    Thank your for commenting. I'm excited that you got your hyraceum and will start your own experiments soon!
    Yes, please do Angelique Noir. Your opinions about vanilla/hyraceum might be different.
    Cherugi would be an interesting combination...
    I'm looking forward to reading about your results!
    10/21/13 at 7:11am
    purplebird7 said:

    kumquat and I are going to continue this week with Dioressence, Bal a Versailles, Miss Dior, and 1000.

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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    What a great experiment! Thanks to all for the imput...very enlightening.
    Our job is to live joyfully in this world of sorrows--Joseph Campbell

  3. #3

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I'm glad you posted this, purplebird, because I was wondering why I couldn't find Profumo's old group notes. It wasn't until Andrew_B emailed me and let me know that Grant switched back to the old format that I realized what was up.

    ANYWAY! I finally got my hyraceum last week. I hesitated to join in on this, because every time I join in on one of Profumo's projects, I get pregnant. That didn't save me this time. I held off, and I still got pregnant anyway. So, I said to heck with it. Let the hyraceum experiments begin!

    Looking forward to a return of the archived notes. I will start this week, and post my conclusions by next Sunday.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by Aiona View Post
    I hesitated to join in on this, because every time I join in on one of Profumo's projects, I get pregnant. That didn't save me this time. I held off, and I still got pregnant anyway.
    Ha!

    Good job resurrecting this one, purplebird!

  5. #5

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    This is such a great experiment! I did away with my commercial fragrances for the most part but still have a handful I suppose might work. I saw this thread when it first started and resisted knowing I would want to amp up my animalic scents instead just to push the limits. MKK, Kouros, L'Air de Rien ... what would happen to those with a little hyraceum?
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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I should have jumped on this Experiment. I had been so busy with school that I was hesitant to dabble back into perfumery as I was taking care of loose ends. now though, I have enough time in my day where I have been pondering upon the use of animalic products. I'll definitely keep my eyes on this one for future references. I specifically have been wondering about the use of this ingredient due its..... nature.

    Thanks again for resurrecting this one and I wait for more results to some in so that I can get a full appreciation on whats possible.

  7. #7

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I didn't get the Hyraceum from Profumo, but I have some already...

    When I smell it, It makes me think of Elephants. I smell the hay and the animal, and the poopy ness, and it make me think of the Elephant poop at the circus or the zoo. (Elephants eat hay... )

    I decided to play along with an all natural challenge for a Winter Freshness concept fragrance, and have been using the hyraceum to give it the musky part in the bottom, since the requirements were that all and only up to 15 materials are natural, and that any musks were obtained humanely. So I just backed away from everything else I have in favor of hyraceum. (It's been killing me to have to use this so severely restricted pallette!)
    The Challenge also requires two tinctures, so the Hyraceum qualifies as one of the tinctures.

    I'm on my second try at it, this whack at a scent has a bit too much clove/eugenol, so I need to formulate again, and take out so much eugenol or it will get itchy. The other cool things I'm using are Pinewood and Frankincense wood from Robertet. - Having fun with this little project. More of an exercise than a real fragrance to release, but fun nonetheless...

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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Purplebird was kind enough to share her sample with me. I have some Jicky parfum that has lost its civit. Much to my shock and dismay. This happened in only maybe, 2 years time. It seems to have evaporated. It had been extremely sexy and now is only vanilla and lavender. With the addition of a drop of this special sauce; ​Voila! It's back to its old sultry self.

  9. #9

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    purplebird7, what a great thread! I've lately been lamenting the loss of my favorite perfume's former glory. The reformulated Creed Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie has nowhere near the intoxication of my almost-empty original bottle. I will study this, use the info, and report.

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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I didn't get the Hyraceum from Profumo, but I have some already...

    When I smell it, It makes me think of Elephants. I smell the hay and the animal, and the poopy ness, and it make me think of the Elephant poop at the circus or the zoo. (Elephants eat hay... )

    I decided to play along with an all natural challenge for a Winter Freshness concept fragrance, and have been using the hyraceum to give it the musky part in the bottom, since the requirements were that all and only up to 15 materials are natural, and that any musks were obtained humanely. So I just backed away from everything else I have in favor of hyraceum. (It's been killing me to have to use this so severely restricted pallette!)
    The Challenge also requires two tinctures, so the Hyraceum qualifies as one of the tinctures.

    I'm on my second try at it, this whack at a scent has a bit too much clove/eugenol, so I need to formulate again, and take out so much eugenol or it will get itchy. The other cool things I'm using are Pinewood and Frankincense wood from Robertet. - Having fun with this little project. More of an exercise than a real fragrance to release, but fun nonetheless...

    PK
    That's why I like wearing the Hyraceum-tincture on its own - Elephants are my favourite animals! Believe it or not this little creature Hyrax is closely related to Elephants!

    Anyway, the whole Basenotes-confusion made me lose track of this project, and I lost my notes. I will try to recreate my observations out of my memory in the next days.
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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Thank you, purplebird for linking me up to this thread. Was wondering what happened to the project. While I am rather tied up with work, I'm keen to follow my fellow perfumistas' personal experience with hyraceum. There's nothing like a little dose of animalics to add a mysterious edge or sensuality to a fragrance...

  12. #12

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Congratulations, Aiona, on your good news. I wish you and your baby the best of health and a comfortable pregnancy. Stay warm. Here it is -5 F. Or -20 C.

    Thanks, everyone for getting back on board with the hyraceum experiments. We should have the missing posts returned soon: For those of you who don't recall, Eule did some great writing about his tests with masculine fragrances. I hope to get those re-posted in a few days.

    Also, a few of mine were missing: Dioressence and Bal a Versailles among them. Any of you with Bal a Versailles, try that one with hyraceum; it's fascinating. Just the right thing for it.

    I'm also glad to get this thread here for the rest of Basenote to enjoy since it was a little hard to find in the groups section. Thanks once again to Profumo for providing the hyraceum to Profumo Friends Club and for the great idea for this experiment.

    So... Let the show begin! Here we go.

  13. #13

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I know this is not the intended usage, nor any way to create a tridimensional experience, but I have experimented a bit with wearing straight hyraceum.

    From the nozzle, I found the hyraceum to smell animalic, yet rich and winey. On skin for 15 minutes, its provenance is clear: a strong, sour animal/urine character with lots of wet fur.

    I asked two colleagues to inhale from my wrist after 45 minutes:

    1. Subject 1 (young Swedish woman): "It's like a combination of a hay stack and urine. I don't really want to come closer, it isn't a comfortable smell."

    2. Subject 2 (middle-aged South African man): "Very strong, kind of odd. It's not like it is pushing me away, it isn't at all repugnant."

    Ok, now that that is done, on to the blending--
    Sans parfum, la peau est muette.

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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I'm curious about what happened to the civit that was in my Jicky parfum. Why did it disappear? Is this hyraceum a better quality chemical? Is there any reason I shouldn't just dump the whole vial in my parfum? I'm reluctant to do this, but the parfum is not to my liking now. I do like it with a drop of the H added to each application.

    BTW, how can I get some more? Thanks!
    Last edited by kumquat; 12th December 2013 at 03:52 PM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive



    The Hyraceum project has jumped on the main forum here, thanks to the insistence of Purplebird and thanks to the shifting of platform that caused the loss of the original thread and the necessity to restart it.

    From now on, our experiments will be more visible to all, for the profit of all those who have a curiosity and interest in animal scents in perfumery. Moreover a larger number of Basenoters will be able to participate which will make the findings of our research more valid.

    The project consists in adding animal scents to commercial fragrances and realize if it has an effect on their longevity, volume, trail, sensuality and also to observe if there is an effect on the opposite sex, when you are wearing a commercial fragrance “doctored “ with animal scents. (this seems to be the case according to the first finds”

    We are starting with Hyraceum, 15 free kits of Hyraceum have been distributed initially to members of “Profumo friends club “.
    The kits for who wishes to make his own experiments or to verify those described by the participants can be found on the site, where the instructions for making experiments are also detailed.
    Anyone wishing to contact me can PM me.
    Last edited by Profumo; 12th December 2013 at 04:13 PM.
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  16. #16

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Dear Kumkat, I do not know where is the civet of Jicky, but when we finish the research with Hyraceum, the animal scent project will move to doctoring commercial fragrances with Civet and there will be an other bunch of free kits with Civet tincture. I hope that you will be ready when the time for that comes.
    For now the free kits of Hyraceum are finished but you can get the kit with the exceptionally strong tincture that you see on the picture on our site.
    One drop of tincture by vial of frag is the starting dose and there are 150 drops in the 4.5 ml bottles.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Great, I'll try adding some to a separate bottle for application. I'd love to try the civit, if possible. It's a real mystery. I got this bottle from the Paris shop. It was so outrageous to begin with I didn't think I could wear it outside the house. It filled the room with an animalic odor, unmistakably sexual in nature. It seemed like something one could only wear on a hot, private date. Then, recently I tried it, and, Wah! all the air has been let out of its tires. Harmless vanilla and lavender are all that remain.

  18. #18

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    It was most probably a synthetic civettone and this may be why it has disappeared,
    AbdesSalaam Attar
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    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  19. #19

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    kumquat: I agree with profumo. I think the civet in your Jicky disappeared because it was imitation.

    cosmopolit: Thanks for being brave enough to wear hyraceum by itself and actually ask your co-workers to smell you! Also, thanks for jumping in an starting your experiments. I'm going to make a prediction: I think the "hidden" animalic under a fragrance will please women more. Now, if you could just try that same woman with a "clean" and a "dirty" version of a fragrance she likes, we will see if I'm right or wrong!

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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I liked the Hyraceum so much that I was wearing half of the bottle by itself. It smells so great, something in the middle between Castoreum and Civet. It smells like hay, like animals and even a bit like honey - very delicious!

    I wanted to blend it with Dia Man, but this perfume is very strong and somehow I didn't notice any remarkable change. Dia Man is already on its own almost perfect, maybe that's why there was no big difference, it became a little bit softer but nothing groundbreaking happened.

    Then I decided to blend the Hyraceum with some samples of the "backpacker colognes" from the Juniper Ridge-line, an all-natural house which produces rather smells than perfumes and there I had more luck. Will soon post more about it.


    Btw: Has anybody heard anything from Mumsy? Tried to contact her, but no luck!
    FAVOURITES:

    1. Dia Man
    2. Tawaf
    3. Skin Graft
    4. Vitrum
    5. Norne
    6. Incense Extreme

  21. #21

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    It appears that Mumsy's latest post was May of this year.

  22. #22
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Oh, I hope all is well. Maybe she just has other things to do.

  23. #23

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I started my experiment last month, then took a break when Basenotes went offline I am now resuming my experimentation.
    My first step was to get familiar with the smell of Hyraceum. My 10 year old nephew was by my side as I did this so he got to smell it as well. More on what he thought of it later. So what were my impressions of Hyraceum? Well here are scents that it reminded me of:
    leather, washed hair, "Guardian soap" - this is a carbolic soap we used to use for bathing when I was a kid. I haven't used it in years, but the memory of its smell just came flooding back! Some more gruesome scent memories I associated with Hyraceum the mortuary and embalmed bodies. How come? Well the Hyraceum smell reminded me of my trips to the mortuary when my parents passed away. Not a pleasant memory but a real one nonetheless. I was also reminded of the smell of an animal pen and cow dung. Took me a while to realize it reminded me of cow dung- I kept saying to myself_ it reminds me of something but I can't put my finger on it, and then suddenly it clicked! Cow dung!
    Overall I found Hyraceum to be earthy, leathery, animalic and strangely sweet. It also have a richness and softness to it that gave me the impressions of a luxurious good quality perfume. I began to get a glimpse of why its addition to a perfume would do wonders.

    So what did my nephew think of it? He said he liked it! I was surprised but he just did.

    My next step was to add one drop each of Hyraceum to 1 ml of the following perfumes:
    Epic by Amouage
    Body by Burberry
    Bathesheba by Judith Muller

    I am also experimenting with Eau du Soir by Sisley. Will post an update on these tomorrow.

  24. #24

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    What about Liz Zorn Tobacco and Tulle? A great scent with hyraceum.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  25. #25
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Thanks for shaing this info. I'd like to try this (bal a Versailles!) but I think I'll have to wait a while. Hopefully the product will be available later.

  26. #26

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Thank you Aba, very interesting about the memories. Animal scents are primordial, they go very far into our memories, they can wake up olfactory memories that we have inherited from our ancestors.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  27. #27

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by akiba66 View Post
    Well the Hyraceum smell reminded me of my trips to the mortuary when my parents passed away. Not a pleasant memory but a real one nonetheless.
    How sad. Thank you for sharing that. These scent memories are important.

    Then hyraceum will cause any fragrance to which you add it to become more solemn and serious for you. In the U.S. the smell of lilies is often associated with funerals because these flowers are used in floral arrangements for funerals. If you put it in a lily fragrance, it would smell very sad.

    Carbolic soap. Yes. I agree with that association, but I cannot explain why. Carbolic soap smells fascinating.

    I smell cow dung and horse dung in it, and (like PKiler said) elephant dung. Associations with the countryside. Maybe it would smell wonderful in a fragrance with a hay base! Does anyone have one of those to try? Or a green, plant-like fragrance?

  28. #28

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    These comments are giving me an idea to make a Hyraceum Fragrance. A perfume centered on Hyraceum with the tincture as the main ingredient. If I do it I shall make a free bottle available to those who patrticipate in the experiments.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  29. #29

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I'm so intrigued by this thread and these experiments. One of my fave quirky perfumes is Dzing and it's precisely because I smell hay and elephant butt. Any problems shipping the hyraceum from Italy to US? Is there a US source that I could get my hands on more quickly?

  30. #30

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by bogsc View Post
    I'm so intrigued by this thread and these experiments. One of my fave quirky perfumes is Dzing and it's precisely because I smell hay and elephant butt. Any problems shipping the hyraceum from Italy to US? Is there a US source that I could get my hands on more quickly?
    Hello Bogsk,
    Check down the thread, a post with the picture of the kit, you will find a link there to get it.There is no custom problem shipping Hyraceum to the US:
    PM me if you need more details.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  31. #31

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    These comments are giving me an idea to make a Hyraceum Fragrance. A perfume centered on Hyraceum with the tincture as the main ingredient.
    Sure. Why not? It seems that many people find this aroma pleasant.

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    If I do it I shall make a free bottle available to those who patrticipate in the experiments.
    Oh, how nice! Thank you!

    Quote Originally Posted by bogsc View Post
    Any problems shipping the hyraceum from Italy to US? Is there a US source that I could get my hands on more quickly?
    Profumo's UPS Express delivery from Italy is faster than most ground deliveries within the U.S. It costs $24, but if you order some fragrances along with your hyraceum, it's worth the cost. I got a set of six 5-ml samples, and he put my hyraceum in there, and it arrived on the third day,

    Look the reviews on the Basenotes Directory to see if you are interested in sampling any of his fragrances:

    http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancedi...ia+del+profumo

    Here is the website link:

    http://www.profumo.it/perfume/prodotti_mignon.asp

  32. #32

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Purplebird, you gave great suggestions for samples from Madini oils so would love to hear about your faves from Profumo. Will plan to get some samples and Hyraceum after the holidays.

    Profumo, didn't dawn on me until now that you are creator of AbdesSalaam Attars. A number of perfume buddies rave about them and I believe a sample of at least one of your attars recently came into my possession. Looking forward to trying more of them as I've only recently fallen down the attar rabbit hole.
    Last edited by bogsc; 16th December 2013 at 01:11 PM.

  33. #33

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I love this confusion, eventually it will lead the tax people off my tracks.
    "AbdesSalaam Attar" is my perfumer's name, not my brand, but I have a line of Attars called "Sheikh Perfumes". My name is not Profumo either, it is my nick on Basenoteds but it is also the name of my company /(NOT "Il Profumo"), while my brand is still known by its previous name "La via del Profumo" but it does not appear anymore on registration papers.
    My Name is Dominique Dubrana ( NOT "Durbano") but even my own mother calls me now as "Salaam".
    You are welcome to my Attars, do not forgot to mention whom you are on Basenotes if you order anything, there is always a special treatmernt for Basenoters.
    Salaam
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  34. #34

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    My first update - I added 1 drop of hyraceum to 1 ml of Judith Muller's Bathsheba fragrance. Bathsheba on its own smells rich, sweet, fresh and floral. I also smelled hints of frankincense, orange and mint. It reminded me also of powder, camay soap and a hair pomade from my childhood but I have still not remembered its name.

    Bathsheba plus hyraceum? - an explosion of scent - intense and sweet yet somewhat softer than Bathesheba without hyraceum. It seems hyraceum rounded out the sharper notes of the fragrance. The blended also smelled less soapy. I preferred the hyraceum spiked version. I put a drop of the pure Bathesheba in the crook of my left elbow and one drop of the hyraceum spiked Bathesheba in the crook of my right elbow before going to bed.The next morning I noticed that the fragrance on my right elbow smelled stronger. I also tried a drop each of the Batheseba with and without hyraceum on a perfume strip. The strip without hyraceum smelled sharper. After leaving the strips to sit for about an hour I noticed that the smell on the strip with hyraceum was stronger. Seems addition of hyraceum softened and enriched the Bathsheba fragrance but also made the scent last longer.
    I have made a second blend of 1 ml Bathesheba plus 2 drops hyraceum - I will evaluate that tonight hopefully.

    I also tried hyraceum with Body by Burberry and Epic by Amouage. In both cases the hyraceum had a softening and rounding effect on the fragrance. This effect was however most noticeable with the Bathesheba fragrance described above.

  35. #35

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by bogsc View Post
    Purplebird, you gave great suggestions for samples from Madini oils so would love to hear about your faves from Profumo. Will plan to get some samples and Hyraceum after the holidays.
    Oh, so many of them are marvelous. My favorites from my first sampling are Gringo (an amazing, head-turning frankincense-based fragrance) and Bazaar (my favorite spicy Oriental of any brand). The second sampling, I fell for Pheromone for Women (an indolic floral over a civet and ambergris base) and Oasis (a deep, gorgeous, realistic floral), and Milano Cafe (a roasted coffee and sweets gourmand).

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    I love this confusion, eventually it will lead the tax people off my tracks.
    I'm laughing, here.


    Thanks for the whole explanation about your name/nickname/company. I didn't know your company name went to "Profumo" from "La Via del Profumo." So, do you prefer "Salaam" as a first name, then?

  36. #36
    Basenotes Member mimielle's Avatar
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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I'm interested to follow along here and maybe participate in the other note additions, especially if US residents might do a combined shipping order for the next one. I don't hesitate in paying for my materials at all but sometimes I do occasionally balk at the single item international shipping costs!
    “The unnatural and the strange have a perfume of their own”
    ― Fernando Pessoa

  37. #37

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Purplebird/Salaam,

    Thanks for the recommendations and the explanation abut name/nickname/company! It's sample of pheromone for women that recently came into my possession (I think in the last couple of weeks). Gonna dig that out and give it a good try. Civet and ambergris will no doubt result in a swoon. Will be ordering some of your faves Purplebird. Salaam, I'll be reaching out to you right after the holidays for more suggestions.
    Last edited by bogsc; 17th December 2013 at 12:23 PM.

  38. #38

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by bogsc View Post
    Purplebird/Salaam,
    Will be ordering some of your faves Purplebird.
    I have an addition to make. I forgot to put Sharif in my list of favorites (deep, resinous, a bit smoky and leathery, followed by sweet almonds). This one would make the most sexy masculine fragrance, but its good on women, too.

    Quote Originally Posted by akiba66 View Post
    My first update - ...Bathsheba plus hyraceum? - an explosion of scent - intense and sweet yet somewhat softer than Bathesheba without hyraceum. It seems hyraceum rounded out the sharper notes of the fragrance. The blended also smelled less soapy. ...Seems addition of hyraceum softened and enriched the Bathsheba fragrance but also made the scent last longer.
    I also tried hyraceum with Body by Burberry and Epic by Amouage. In both cases the hyraceum had a softening and rounding effect on the fragrance....
    Akibaa - Your results match some of Eule's and mine. You have found that the hyraceum extends the life of a fragrance. It is, indeed, a fixative. Also, it rounds-out or unifies the notes in the fragrance. True for all of us, so far. And it smelled good in Bathsheba (that is a beautiful fragrance) especially because of the "soapy" notes. I think Eule noticed that, too. We used to have a list of matched results. It was lost by Huddlr, but I hope to get it back. I think it went like this (and we can add to it):




    If anyone can remember more of these or has other generalizations to add, please do.

  39. #39

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    List of Effects - Hyraceum added to a fragrance:
    1. Makes it last longer
    2. Deepens the fragrance, gives it a 3-D effect
    3. Rounds out, blends, or unifies the notes, "softens" the fragrance
    4. Intensifies floral notes or "floralizes" a fragrance
    5. Combines well with leather notes
    6. Reduces sharpness of soapy notes
    7. Combines well with musk notes
    8. To most people, it smells attractive, or at least inoffensive
    9. Causes people to recall the scent of animals, feces, urine, leather, fur
    10. When too much hyraceum is added, the fragrance "flattens out"
    11. Reduces or fights with vanilla notes
    12. Combines well with animalic notes
    13. Combines well with oud notes
    14. Can be used at a high ratio of hyraceum to fragrance, depending on the fragrance.
    15. Good with vetiver, not as good with orris.
    16. Enhances citrus notes
    17. Boosts powder notes
    18. Tames "gasoline" note
    19. Rounds marine note
    Last edited by purplebird7; 1st January 2014 at 01:59 PM. Reason: Adding information

  40. #40

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Hi!
    Please excuse the ignorance - do the civets enjoy humane treatment in Ethiopia (or elsewhere) & any freedom in captivity or do they suffer in any way?
    It would be interesting to understand exactly how the civet paste is obtained from them as the articles here have so far been unclear on this and the use of civet is a future experiment if I've read this thread correctly.
    Thanks!
    Last edited by lpp; 18th December 2013 at 07:37 PM.

  41. #41
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by lpp View Post
    Hi!
    Please excuse the ignorance - do the civets enjoy humane treatment in Ethiopia (or elsewhere) & any freedom in captivity or do they suffer in any way?
    It would be interesting to understand exactly how the civet paste is obtained from them as the articles here have so far been unclear on this and the use of civet is a future experiment if I've read this thread correctly.
    Thanks!
    Good question, I'd like to know this, also.

  42. #42

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I have not been in Ethiopia yet and I cannot bring an eye-witness testimony. When I asked my supplier in Ethiopia about the treatmrnt of civets, he said, "we live from them, we treat them better than our children".
    Maybe in the same way that farmers in Europe seem to love their cows more than their own family.
    I propose that I shall fully investigate the matter, travelling to Ethiopia, before starting any experiments with Civet here.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  43. #43

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Thank you for replying, Profumo - the WSPA report does not encourage one to think that the captive civet is treated awfully well - and it is certainly true that the majority of farmed animals in most countries are not well treated either, although progress is being made in some countries.

    People are free to choose whether they use any of these products once in possession of accurate & current information, which appears scant in respect of the civet.

    We are fortunate in my immediate locality as we do have 'family' farmers who keep small amounts of various animals in excellent and humane conditions and we may therefore choose to purchase from them should we so wish.
    Last edited by lpp; 19th December 2013 at 06:55 PM.

  44. #44

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I'm glad, Profumo, that you will check into the treatment of your supplier's civet cats so that those of us who do not wish to contribute to cruelty can excuse ourselves from using products that are not ethically produced. I will be among the people who wait to hear of proof from your supplier before I continue. Thank you for being brave and ethical by offering to look into the situation on our behalf. I applaud you.

    I'd also like to bring up sandalwood, which should come from sustainable sources. There are plantations where this is occurring. Research is necessary, but it is worth supporting the right suppliers and perfumers who can vouch for that their sandalwood is not poached. Ditto: rosewood.

    And, to be fair, although this is off-topic, it is the same issue.

    Reforms need to be made in the livestock industry (meat, dairy, and egg) in terms of allowing free-range access and enabling slaughter on-site or at nearby co-ops instead of long-distance hauling to factory slaughterhouses. Also, the fishing industry needs regulation to stop over-fishing and environmental damage.

    Thanks.

  45. #45

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Please restart your experiments if you have the hyraceum.
    I only count five or six people who have posted about their experiements (including Eule, whose posts were lost).
    I know the move from Hudlr caused a delay, but you still have your kits and can resume -- especially if some of you are getting time off from work for winter break. Please consider doing so as soon as this busy season allows. In fact, it might be a good time to test those hyraceum-dosed fragrances since you will be attending parties this holiday season! Sneak in a "dosed" version of your favorite fragrance, and let us know how people react!

  46. #46

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Sorry about my tardiness. I will be posting very soon.

  47. #47

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Thanks, Lisa! That's wonderful!

  48. #48
    Basenotes Member edward t's Avatar
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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    10-26-2013 009 new.jpg

    Well, I totally lost the spur of the moment reporting due to loss of my information when Basenotes switched backed to it's old forum. The Hyraceum defintely "dirtied" up the Creed Royal Oud and Agar Aura Oud Fougere I added it too. When I say "dirtied" it up, I do not mean it in a bad way, but in more of a good way. It added a more primal animalistic edge to the fragrances. I have on occasion actually swiped the tincture on my neck by itself. When mixing, I prefer to have the Hyraceum on the strong side. I have been adding it with the ratio of about 2 drops of Hyraceum with 5 drops Oud Fougere and about 1ml Creed Royal Oud with 5 drops Hyraceum. To me the straight Hyraceum smells like really clean, shower fresh slighly spicy Vajayjay. As a man, I take a deep whiff from the bottle and mental pictures flash through my head of red and black lace stockings and what lies underleath those. I do notice the ladies do get a little more talkative when I am wearing mixes or straight Hyracuem. I will have to do some more experimenting to see (smell) if the Hyraceum is behind it.

  49. #49

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    !!!!!
    Fabulous!!!
    The subliminal message is coming through!

    You are able to use a high ratio of hyraceum. I will add that to the list of generalities.

    Agar Oud Fougere, for people who don't know, is an all-natural fougere using oakmoss and galbanum, which would make it quite green and foresty -- and that is fascinating all by itself. (It is sold out on their website, BTW.) I've never smelled it, but I would imagine it's character is quite different from the Creed Royal Oud.

    This is quite nice to get results on these masculine fragrances. In my experiment, I found that the hyraceum went best with Aromatics Elixir -- which is different from almost every other mainstream feminine fragrance in the department store here: It is a masculine-leaning feminine fragrance. It has lots of herbal elements. It is notably drier and less sweet. It has animalic ingredients, probably synthetic civet. The hyraceum loved it.

    So, I am not surprised that the Oud fragrances were a good match, too. I will go up and edit the list of generalities, adding "goes well with oud fragrances."

  50. #50
    Basenotes Plus
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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I prepared a vial with modified Fahrenheit a couple of days ago and gave it a test drive today (on my wrist). Now, Fahrenheit is one of my top favorite fragrances just like it is, but the addition of hyraceum gave it a stunning sense of multidimensionality. I was immediately impressed. What I noticed the most was the rounding of the "gasoline" feel. The violet was perfectly enhanced - I almost wanted to eat it.

  51. #51

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Cool. Should I add "reduces harsh top notes?" to the list?
    Also do you feel that it made any difference to let it sit for a few days?

  52. #52

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Apologies for not posting earlier but here's my early impressions.

    Hyraceum on it's own smells carnal, urinous and a little animalic. The other impression I get is mustiness that calls to mind very old but clean houses. Old dry and exposed woods, old worn leather chairs, old bounds books. It reminds me of walking into a museum period house and some op shops.

    So far I've added it to three fragrances, Iris Silver Mist, Marquis de Sade and Vetiver 46.

    Iris Silver Mist is somehow rounder for the addition. I don't like it.
    It transforms the composition into something more common - akin to the more ubiquitous iris + white musks combos.
    The "tangy" aspects of the resins and vetiver also seem to be slightly aplified.
    This addition could definitely work those that feel ISM too stark and cold.

    The addition of Hyraceum to Vetiver 46 however does fit my tastes.
    Again it rounder and warmer however in this instance I feel it adds to the fragrance particularly blending well with the lab/vanilla/amber drydown.
    It also takes the edge off the cedar and pepper notes.
    Somewhat surprisingly the "tangy" aspects are amplifed again - bergamot, resins and an aspect of the vetiver really standing out.

    I'm still testing MdS and will report back soon.

  53. #53

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by laph View Post
    The other impression I get is mustiness that calls to mind very old but clean houses. Old dry and exposed woods, old worn leather chairs, old bounds books. It reminds me of walking into a museum period house and some op shops.
    Brilliant! I smell that, too. I just didn't find the words for it.

    Verrrry intersting that you found two fragrances: one that clearly didn't work, and one that clearly did.

    Both of them were based on natural, vegetal substances: orris absolute and vetiver e.o. To me, both of those smell of "earth and roots." Yet, the vetiver, as you say, is "tangy." (I get "smoky" also.) Perhaps that explains why it withstood the addition of the animalic hyraceum, whereas I feel that orris is softer -- not in strength, but in character.

    I added "good with vetiver, not as good with orris" to the list. Hope you don't mind.

  54. #54

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Still among turkish goat herders in Cyprus distilling pink pepper trees. I am resolving the problems of connection and will soon be able to be with you here.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  55. #55

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Sweet Redemption - 2 drops hyraceum
    Too sweet for my taste I wanted to test this to see if hyraceum could somehow tame the sweetness. I was hopeful at first. While the opening seemed warmer with hyraceum it did nothing to cut through the heavy sweet notes. It did enhance an odd play doh vanilla note. I didn't care for it at all.

    Ubar - 1 drop hyraceum
    Hyraceum seemed to enhance the citrus and boost the powder notes. It blended well. I liked this one much better.

    Sel Marin - 1 drop hyraceum
    Serious citrus boost in the opening and warmer rounded marine notes.

    I didn't notice any change in longevity for either fragrance but I'm still testing them further.

  56. #56

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Brilliant! I smell that, too. I just didn't find the words for it.

    Verrrry intersting that you found two fragrances: one that clearly didn't work, and one that clearly did.

    Both of them were based on natural, vegetal substances: orris absolute and vetiver e.o. To me, both of those smell of "earth and roots." Yet, the vetiver, as you say, is "tangy." (I get "smoky" also.) Perhaps that explains why it withstood the addition of the animalic hyraceum, whereas I feel that orris is softer -- not in strength, but in character.

    I added "good with vetiver, not as good with orris" to the list. Hope you don't mind.
    Animal scents are notorious for blending well with flowery notes. I believe that they would be able add the indolic dimension, that many natural flowers have, to the synthetic flowery notes of commercial frags.
    Last edited by Profumo; 30th December 2013 at 02:27 PM.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  57. #57

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    I prepared a vial with modified Fahrenheit a couple of days ago and gave it a test drive today (on my wrist). Now, Fahrenheit is one of my top favorite fragrances just like it is, but the addition of hyraceum gave it a stunning sense of multidimensionality. I was immediately impressed. What I noticed the most was the rounding of the "gasoline" feel. The violet was perfectly enhanced - I almost wanted to eat it.


    very interesting effect on a outstanding perfume. If others could replicate the experiment with the same effect, we would be sure of the result.
    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    http://www.profumo.it/Blog/index.php

  58. #58

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa BTB View Post
    ...enhance the citrus
    ...boost the powder notes
    ...rounded marine notes
    Check. Added to list.

  59. #59

    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    After the Christmas break hiatus, I'm back as well.

    In December, I had tried Cologne Sologne (nice, deeper, but ultimately it goes against the DNA of an eau de cologne), and Olene (not much perceived change, to be honest). I think my earlier posts were lost.

    Today addition to two favorites: Metal and Calandre. I accidentally overdosed (5 drops per ml). Which means at least that things will be amplified. Metal starts sharp green, the hiraceum immediately moves it into old style dirty narcissus florals, giving it a rounder, richer, chypre feel. i love Metal as is, so there's no reason to change it. But the resulting metal + hiraceum is also very good. The material seems to marry well with green florals. In Calandre, which is already rich and vanillic, it seems to make it too sweet - not an improvement so far.

    But that's just the top, we'll see how it evolves.

    cacio

  60. #60
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    Default Re: CORRECTING COMMERCIAL FRAGRANCES WITH HYRACEUM - temporary thread from Huddlr archive

    On Aventus, I found that the hyraceum muddied up the birch, minimizing the smokiness of it. It also revived the patchouli and oakmoss - it was almost as if the birch, patchouli, and moss were homogenized. It also gave the pineapple a riper and fleshier feel... almost to the point of fermentation. I think this was, at least in part, due to the hyraceum highlighting the indole in jasmine. I'm not sure it was a correction/improvement necessarily (which it was on Fahrenheit), but it did transform the composition very noticeably. I would say it made it lean more to what's classically categorized as feminine.

    I decided to do Fahrenheit and Aventus because I feel more people would be familiar enough with them and they'd be good reference points. I don't know yet if I'll keep the same approach on what's to follow. We'll see...

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