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  1. #1
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    Default Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    From Now Smell This:

    "French house Hermès has launched Bel Ami Vétiver, the first in a projected series of classic Hermès fragrances reworked by house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. Bel Ami Vétiver is a variation on 1986's Bel Ami, a leathery chypre originally developed by perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac.

    The other classic fragrances in the series will include Eau d'Hermès, Calèche, Equipage, Amazone, Rocabar, Hiris and Rouge."

    bel-ami-vetiver.jpg
    -----------------------------
    It will be interesting to see how much rework will be done to the classics; Equipage Sport, anyone?
    "The cure for boredom is curiosity.
    There is no cure for curiosity."
    - Dorothy Parker

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Exciting. Thanks for sharing.
    (1333)
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve other individuals' acknowledgement or respect.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Thought that they'd already broken Caleche - it will be interesting to hear what they've managed to do.

  4. #4

  5. #5

    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    cautiously optimistic... although bel ami was best as a rich, old school masculine, I wonder what Ellena is going to do with it!

  6. #6
    Basenotes Institution sjg3839's Avatar
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Thanks for the info. Interesting.
    Currently wearing: Memoir Man by Amouage

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Please just give some Doblis, no rework needed...
    "Wonderfully wild, eminently civilized" - Derby by Guerlain

    My swap thread

  8. #8

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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    We'll see what comes out. Ellena is at the opposite of many of these frags. Bel Ami vetiver sounds like a plain vetiver, if they take off leather and smoke. I've never liked Rocabar sporty feel, so that's probably one that will improve under Ellena. And I'm curious of what will become of Eau d'Hermes. Will ellena keep the cumin?

    cacio

  9. #9

    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Thanks for sharing indeed. Some truly exciting fragrance testing sure to follow for me- rediscovering some classics I knew and loved, newly discovering some others on the list.
    Currently wearing: Lancetti Uomo by Lancetti

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by remik View Post
    Bel Ami Vetiver??

    I love Bel Ami, but (cautiously) afraid of what they've done by adding vetiver to it....
    The original Bel Ami contains vetiver. The new on just sounds like an Ellena minimalist version of Bel Ami focused on vetiver. Who knows what it will smell like but it will probably be decent.

    Original Bel Ami pyramid:

    Basil, Bergamot, Clary Sage, Lemon, Mandarin, Petitgrain
    Carnation, Cedar, Jasmine, Orris, Patchouli, Vetiver
    Castoreum, Labdanum, Leather, Oakmoss, Styrax, Vanilla

    _________________________


    It all sounds interesting. Really looking forward to what he's done with Eau d'Hermes and Bel Ami Vetiver. Ellena learned a lot from Roudnitska and Eau d'Hermes has always been one of Ellena's favorite fragrances. He's talked about it a lot.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Ellena is at the opposite of many of these frags. cacio
    Couldn't agree more.

    Elena's creations are wonderful, but a waste of $, gone in 2 hrs max. I am scared of the outcome of Equipage modified by Elena...
    Currently wearing: L'Humaniste by Frapin

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    I'll be hopeful here. I'm a modernist in fragrance, and I think that it could be extremely interesting to see these classics refreshed.

    One I would not mind seeing resurrected - if it ever even existed, is the mythical Eau d'Herbes. Exemplary reference here.

    PS - great story about the creator, here: http://www.calameo.com/books/000037699b9c066be5d22
    Last edited by Redneck Perfumisto; 8th December 2013 at 11:43 PM. Reason: added reference
    * * * *

  13. #13

    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    It can seem like a lack of respect to mess with the classics. The only way to become a classic is to exude quality AND remain unreformulated for a certain amount of time.
    Yet, if change is the only constant, then perhaps Hermes decided that it had held off long enough. At least (a) it was Ellena who got the nod, (b) back-up bottles are still available, and (c) the Internet brings everyone's collection to our fingertips.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by awayalonealong View Post
    It can seem like a lack of respect to mess with the classics. The only way to become a classic is to exude quality AND remain unreformulated for a certain amount of time.
    Yet, if change is the only constant, then perhaps Hermes decided that it had held off long enough. At least (a) it was Ellena who got the nod, (b) back-up bottles are still available, and (c) the Internet brings everyone's collection to our fingertips.
    Agreed. I can much more respect a house that keeps its classics, and creates flanker modernizations, than one which suddenly body-snatches a classic in place, replacing it in the dead of night with a reformulated vampire version, leaving the victims lovers of the old version to fend for themselves on eBay.

    The recent Eau Delicate versions of some of the other Hermès classics were very nice, and their movement toward modernity and transparency made them very guy-friendly. So there is a chance that one of these revamped masculines will steal my heart. I'm certainly hoping so!!!
    * * * *

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    The original Bel Ami contains vetiver.
    Yes, but it is such minor ingredient in Bel Ami that you can't even try to call it a vetiver fragrance. If they push it forward, as the new name suggests, it may "kill" the original Bel Ami leather/chypre, likely moving the scent in a whole new direction. Sounds like a flanker that will simply ride on the famous Bel Ami name, but have little relation to the original.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    I don't know, this is collection seems to come so oddly close to 2014, the year that the EU restrictions will be implemented, that i see myself curious but at the same time worried that they will just slowly substitute the old fragrances for compliant ones...

  17. #17

    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by remik View Post
    Sounds like a flanker that will simply ride on the famous Bel Ami name, but have little relation to the original.
    I'm so glad that I spent a good chunk but bought a brand new vintage bel ami...
    Currently wearing: L'Humaniste by Frapin

  18. #18

    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Gone are the days of decadence and opulence.

    Products now are being tailored to fit into the mass market's disposable income scale.

    Juuuuusst the right amount...
    for swap/sale:



  19. #19
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by rickbr View Post
    I don't know, this is collection seems to come so oddly close to 2014, the year that the EU restrictions will be implemented, that i see myself curious but at the same time worried that they will just slowly substitute the old fragrances for compliant ones...
    I have very similar worries.
    * * * *

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Thanks for the update, furrypine. Always enjoy your exciting news announcements!

  21. #21

    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Bel - Ami Leather would be nice -- you know, like the original

  22. #22

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Good news, I'm interested to see what he'll do with the classics.
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    This is big news indeed. I just hope like others have alluded to here, that Ellena will be inspired by his bombastic past & not his minimalist zen compositions of late.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    I don't see the regular Bel Ami on the Hermes website anymore... Interesting...

  26. #26

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by 1adam12 View Post
    I don't see the regular Bel Ami on the Hermes website anymore... Interesting...
    I don't want to overreact, especially when it's too early to know what's going on ... but this has me worried.

    What we don't need are minimalist, watered-down, 'modernised' versions of scents that are already highly regarded just as they are.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by rickbr View Post
    I don't know, this is collection seems to come so oddly close to 2014, the year that the EU restrictions will be implemented, that i see myself curious but at the same time worried that they will just slowly substitute the old fragrances for compliant ones...
    Interesting observation... you may be right!

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    Balenciaga discontinued some of theirs a while back (which was kind of annoying to me personally) but possibly a good long-term decision.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Hermes launches Classic Collections; first out Bel Ami Vetiver

    I have a bottle of the original vintage Bel Ami and think it's a great scent. The problem for me with vetiver is that I think it makes a great supporting accord in a fragrance but a poor leading act. But we shall see.

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