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  1. #91
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    This is their track record, though. Introduce high quality, well-made, and innovative scents and then phase them out to bring in stuff that smells like cheap glade candles or insane amounts of suederal but sells like plasticy vanilla hot-cakes. As the new Tobacco Oud actually has a whiff of personality and intrigue about it, I'd harbor that it'll be gone within six months.

    I'd wait for more concrete information to appear, but if this was in anyone's sights as a potential incense (it really is an excellent one), get ready to pull the trigger fast. Someone I know just bought three bottles of the stuff today alone.
    l knew this about the Private Blends, but this one is in their mainstream line & only came out last year, so this comes as a bigger surprise to me.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  2. #92

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    l knew this about the Private Blends, but this one is in their mainstream line & only came out last year, so this comes as a bigger surprise to me.
    I always found it awkwardly placed between the entry-level and the Private Blends though. I think it should have been a Private Blend all along as the quality is notably higher than some of the more mall-level stuff they have. To me, it was always out of place in their line-up simply because it was so well done and contained some really exceptional material. The only other thought is that Tobacco Oud has something very much like Sahara Noir as its backbone, so there maybe concern of redundancy. With that said, Tom Ford's never been afraid of releasing redundant stuff before

  3. #93

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    I am a big fan of incense scents. My favorite is AG Encens Flamboyant. Fantastic cold weather scent.

    I can't imagine your list being complete with L'artisan's Passage D'enfer.

    Sounds like a magnificent list. I'd love to smell everything on it!

  4. #94
    Dependent OctaVariuM's Avatar
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    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    This is their track record, though. Introduce high quality, well-made, and innovative scents and then phase them out to bring in stuff that smells like cheap glade candles or insane amounts of suederal but sells like plasticy vanilla hot-cakes. As the new Tobacco Oud actually has a whiff of personality and intrigue about it, I'd harbor that it'll be gone within six months.

    I'd wait for more concrete information to appear, but if this was in anyone's sights as a potential incense (it really is an excellent one), get ready to pull the trigger fast. Someone I know just bought three bottles of the stuff today alone.
    I still have yet to try the sample you gave me, but I am assuming the stuff is expensive like the PB stuff is, unless you get it in a flacon at least (or in a split). Not sure I'd end up buying a bottle even if it does become discontinued (though like I said I have yet to try it), but it sucks to hear that. Seems like all the good ones go away.

  5. #95

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by OctaVariuM View Post
    I still have yet to try the sample you gave me, but I am assuming the stuff is expensive like the PB stuff is, unless you get it in a flacon at least (or in a split).
    It's reasonably priced -- $150 for 50ml I think (less than the PBs). It's got some great materials in it, so the price is somewhat warranted. Probably one of last year's best IMO.

  6. #96
    Dependent OctaVariuM's Avatar
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    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    It's reasonably priced -- $150 for 50ml I think (less than the PBs). It's got some great materials in it, so the price is somewhat warranted. Probably one of last year's best IMO.
    That is definitely more reasonable than the PB's go for in the smaller bottles. I'll have to sniff it out soon. Speaking of incense, tonight I am wearing the sample you gave me (thanks again) of Opus VI. So far I am getting a very peppery, strong incense in the opening with some herbal qualities and a lingering, potent amber. Very nice, but I think I may have doused on a little too much of that sample vial.

  7. #97

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by OctaVariuM View Post
    Speaking of incense, tonight I am wearing the sample you gave me (thanks again) of Opus VI. So far I am getting a very peppery, strong incense in the opening with some herbal qualities and a lingering, potent amber.
    It's a strong one -- more of a sweet amber to my nose. Maybe a little too big, rich, and opulent, but probably my favorite from the library collection. Amouage do their incense well.

  8. #98

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    "I was going to marry Diba," Fizur the guard laments. Mindful of her neck's peril, Diba speaks, "But, but ... if he's the sultan, doesn't he get first rights since we're both his subjects?" Yasmin replies, "No, ius primae noctis is only in feudal England. Here, you'd have to be in the harem, which you're not. Anyway, I sent them all home." Walad's eyes widen. "You disbanded my harem?" Yasmin says, "Of course! If I fail to produce a male heir, you can have them back." Walad manages not to bellow, "How, in the circumstances, are we to produce an heir?" Good question. Yasmin decides to say nothing, reaches for another perfume, sniffs and passes the vial around.


    Montale Full Incense. "Oh, oh, oh! Another divine one," Yasmin exclaims. They don't notice the rumble that occurs. Perturbed, Walad takes it from her. "Yes, it is accomplished. Interesting that you picked Montale Jamin Full as your favorite before." Confused, Diba's brother sniffs. "It smells good, perhaps very good, but that is beside the point!" Firuz grabs the vial in order to distract the brother. "Yasmin, my sultana, if my opinion matters, I agree. This, too, is an incense for gods and kings." This time they hear the rumble, but ignore it. Swiftly I look up the notes: Cedar, labdanum, patchouli, elemi, Somali incense. "Isn't that the same kind as in Bois d'Ascese?" Yasmin asks. "This Montale is also truly divine." Too late they hear a whoosh from the ocean and Aphrodite appears, gleaming but furious. " All three men fall instantly in love and, forgetting Yasmin and Diba, rush to Aphrodite's side, grabbing random jewels and scarves and flowers to present to the Goddess of Love. "Did I not advise you to refrain from calling things that aren't me divine? "Humph" Yasmin says. She grabs Diba, grabs the chest of perfume vials, leaves the tent and finds her Arabian horse. Together, she and Diba mount and ride away.

    Tauer's L'Air du Désert Marocain. They reach an oasis in the desert. Yasmin and Diba dismount and by a sparkling pond lay the rug from the Arabian's back. Conveniently, the horse was laden with sacks of bread, wine, and cheese for a picnic Yasmin and Walad were to take and the oasis has plenty of fruit trees. Diba spreads out the feast for her mistress and stands, eyes cast down. Yasmin invites her to sit then speaks. "Tell me what happened and I want the truth, Diba." Diba pales and Yasmin hands her a glass of wine which Diba drinks a good amount of then begins, "He came to my tent. He took me in my sleep." Yasmin peers into her face. "You were fully asleep?" Diba blushes and Yasmin slaps her. "Mistress," Diba says, "He has abandoned us both for Aphrodite." When they finish weeping, Yasmin invites her to eat. Then to avoid talking, they sniff. "Ah mistress," Diba says, "to be a sultana and smell such things all day." Yasmin replies, "It reminds me of this oasis -- citrus and flowers and woods, a bit of spice. It reminds me of my lost home, redolent with smells fit for a palace. It does have a slight sharpness, like the newly-cut cedar when it arrives. Yet this shall be one of my favorites, too." Yasmin eyes Diba. "What was the sex like?" Shocked, Diba responds, "Mistress, we are not alone." Together they stare out at Basenotes. "Yes, I forget they are there." Diba whispers, "I'll tell you later."


    [By the way, Yasmin says to me. My favorites so far are: Blackbird, Bois d'Ascese, NK Incense and these two]
    Last edited by ScentFan; 20th January 2014 at 11:08 PM. Reason: narrow results based on further sniffing

  9. #99

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Sahara Noir Tom Ford. "I thought I'd sniffed this, but no," Yasmin says. "My goodness! This scent has no volume. How dare they send it to a sultana." She tosses it to Diba. "You can have it." Diba smirks and Yasmin knows why. Diba has been with Yasmin's sultan. She doesn't care about a weak perfume. Yasmin bides her time. She will deal with Diba. Yet, is it really Diba's fault? Every female in the kingdom dreams of Walad. He is the betrayer, not Diba. But can a man who has (or, rather, had) a harem really not betray the one he weds? Besides, Yasmin has refused him. To stop thinking, she keeps sniffing.

    Profumo Olibanum. "Mmmm. A bit light, but I don't dislike it," Yasmin says. I look it up: incense, myrrh, orange blossom, sandalwood. Yasmin says, "It's quite pleasant, but I think my nose is starting to feel suffocated." Suddenly they hear horses' hooves. Walad, Fizur and the brother ride up. "Now I'm in for it," Diba says. "Quick," Yasmin replies, "Another scent."

    Serge Lutens de Profundis
    . "I smell flowers," Yasmin says. She runs to the men as they dismount. "Here, smell." I look it up: the scent of chrysanthemums and incense. "Interesing and strange," says Walad, "but aren't you mad at me?" Yasmin glares. "Not about Aphrodite. She casts spells. We mortals have no defense. About Diba? Yes!" Diba is cowering behind Yasmin's back, but her brother reaches around, grabs her and puts his hands around her throat. Yasmin screams. Walad pulls his scimitar. "Sultan Walad," the brother cries. "You know it is my right, no my duty, to end my family's dishonor by taking her life. No one may touch her but me or our father. We must be the ones to do the deed." Walad raises his scimitar. "Smite her and I smite you. I did not touch her. I did not enter her tent. You are not dishonored. At least not by me." Everyone stares at Diba. Confused, Firuz says, "But I thought I saw you, my sultan." Walad replies, "You did not." Diba is released. Walad lowers his scimitar. Everyone knows he never lies. Diba gasps in air. Yasmin sighs.

    Exhausted, they all turn in for the night.

  10. #100
    Dependent OctaVariuM's Avatar
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    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    It's a strong one -- more of a sweet amber to my nose. Maybe a little too big, rich, and opulent, but probably my favorite from the library collection. Amouage do their incense well.
    I definitely get the amber for sure, so I understand why you included it with the others. Though, I do also get that incense note pretty strongly alongside the pepper. Interestingly though, it doesn't quite smell like Honour Man, which has that powerful pepper punch, but rather a mix of spices, maybe bay. I found all night that it kept changing on me, and I got a lot of different sniffs. Going to test it again, but so far it's a big winner.

    As an aside, I think I need to figure out what opoponax smells like, as what I thought it smelled like has been coming to me in scents that apparently contain none (this one just slightly, but Tobacco Oud I could have sworn had it in it).

  11. #101

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    ALSO -- and I'm just hearing this information now, although it's been confirmed by two separate Tom Ford reps -- but the word is that Sahara Noir is being discontinued.

    It's probably the best thing the TF line has right now, so this wouldn't surprise me as crap seems to be far more favorable than quality, and that's a line that certainly knows how to maximize their crap-ness by discontinuing anything quality.

    Must say I never managed to love the TF private blend line. I got samples in and was so underwhelmed I couldn't manage to write about them. The only ones that struck me were Santal Blush and Jasmine Rouge. Also the TF Amber Absolute, which I found somewhere. Sahara Noir barely registers to my nose. How would you characterize the TF line, deadidol?

  12. #102

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by HORNS View Post
    One that hasn't been mentioned, surprisingly, is L'Artisan's Passage d'Enfer - is it hedonistic divine? Maybe not, but for those who like the heady smell of lilies will like this fragrance with a strongly evident but more transparent incense component.
    Quote Originally Posted by julesinrose View Post
    I am a big fan of incense scents. My favorite is AG Encens Flamboyant. Fantastic cold weather scent.

    I can't imagine your list being complete with L'artisan's Passage D'enfer.

    Sounds like a magnificent list. I'd love to smell everything on it!

    Better get that L'Artisan in! I do have Encens Flamboyant, julesinrose.

  13. #103

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Sahara Noir barely registers to my nose. How would you characterize the TF line, deadidol?
    Sahara Noir isn't actually a part of the Private Blends -- it's in this weird liminal space between them and the entry level stuff. In general, the line is disappointing in that they started out great with some real forward-thinking and interesting scents, but they quickly went the path of crowd-pleasing. Can't blame for that, but innovation generally goes out the window when that happens. Since then, they've put out a few solid scents, but a hell of a lot of dudes that don't even please the crowds, it seems. In general, the line is high quality, the scents are exceptionally buffed out and polished, but there's little there you haven't smelled before elsewhere. Several are quite reserved and I'd argue that Sahara Noir is more meditative than foghorn, but the do have a few in their lineup that are cranked to obnoxious levels. The most recent Private Blends suggested that the line still has a pulse in that they stepped out of their comfort zone a little, but they've got a ways to go to get back to the innovative brand they once were.

    Incidentally, Hedonist pointed out that Sahara Noir was just a limited release outside of the UAE and it should still be available there in the same way that London is only available in London. So, not great news but not totally awful either.

  14. #104
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    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Will have to put Sahara Noir on my test list!

  15. #105

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by OdilonRedon View Post
    Writing and an interest in perfume are complimentary pursuits, in a way. Contemplative, stimulating to the senses and the intellect. And it's always good - essential, actually - to have something that pleasantly distracts you from actually writing...
    Sounds like you know first hand, OdilonRedon.

  16. #106

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by Picassoutine View Post
    Absolue Pour le Soir — incense and then some.
    Quote Originally Posted by klimax View Post
    CoStume National Scent Intense.
    Quote Originally Posted by julesinrose View Post
    I can't imagine your list being complete with L'artisan's Passage D'enfer.
    Thanks. They're all on the way.

  17. #107

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Here’s my updated list, beginning with the yet-to-be-sniffed. 17 down, 40 to go. Asterisks indicate favorites so far. Ordered a few extra Tiziana Terenzis in and just sniffed them. Lovely, lovely! Perhaps I’ll end up a mostly niche perfumista.

    To be sniffed

    Absolue Pour Le Soir
    Amouage Memoir Woman
    Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes Encens Flamboyant
    April Aromatics Bohemian Spice
    April Aromatics Calling All Angels

    Armani/Prive Bois d’Encens

    Barkhane Teo Cabanel

    By Kilian Incense Oud

    Caron Yatagan
    Cartier Panthere d' Cartier

    Comme des Garcons 2 Man
    Comme des Garcons Series 3 Incense – Avignon
    Comme des Garcons Series 3 Incense - Kyoto

    CoSTUME National Scent Intense

    Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme

    Guerlain Myrrhe & Delires
    Guerlain Encens Mythique D’Orient
    Guerlain L’Art et La Matiere Bois d’Arménie

    Il Profumo Incens Epices

    Joseph Statkus Eau de Parfum

    Jovoy La Liturgie des Heures
    Jovoy Lys Epona

    Knive Sec

    L’Artisan Dzongkha (FB)
    L’Artisan Passage D'enfer
    L’Artisan Timbuktu (FB)

    L'Occitane Eau des Baux

    Le Labo Cuir 28

    Maison Francis Kurkdjian Paris Coloyne Pour Le Soir

    Nasomatto Black Afgano

    Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman

    PK Perfumes Pentecost

    Profumum Ambra Aurea

    Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure EdP

    Tauer Incense Rose

    Tiziana Terenzi Ecstasy

    Tom Ford Amber Absolute

    Slumberhouse Norne
    Slumberhouse Vikt

    ---------------

    Sniffed

    Amouage Epic Man
    Amouage Homage
    Amouage Interlude Man
    Amouage Ubar

    Frederick Malle Dans Tes Bras

    *House of Matriarch Blackbird

    Lorenzo Villoresi Incensi

    *Montale Full Incense

    *Naomi Goodsir, Bois d’Ascèse (couldn't wait, already ordered)

    *Norma Kamali Incense

    Profumum Olibanum

    Robert Piguet Casbah

    Serge Lutens de Profundis
    Serge Lutens Serge Noir

    Tom Ford Sahara Noir

    *Tauer L’Air du Desert Morocain
    Tauer Perfumes Incense Extreme EdP

  18. #108

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    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Scentfan a request please - is it possible to create a hyperlinked index in the first post of all that you have tested?

    Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk 2

  19. #109

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Sounds like you know first hand, OdilonRedon.
    ...'fraid so... (I can't find an emoticon that conveys complete exasperation, but I'm sure you get the picture).

  20. #110

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by blackheart2925 View Post
    Scentfan a request please - is it possible to create a hyperlinked index in the first post of all that you have tested?

    Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk 2
    Hmmm...no idea how to do that. Let me investigate.

  21. #111

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by blackheart2925 View Post
    Scentfan a request please - is it possible to create a hyperlinked index in the first post of all that you have tested?

    Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk 2
    Don't see a way, blackheart, but if you'll give me instructions, I sure will.

  22. #112

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Don't see a way, blackheart, but if you'll give me instructions, I sure will.
    At the top of the "reply" box are some tools. The one just to the right of the emoticon icons is the one you'd use to make a link. Highlight whatever word it is you want to hyperlink to, click that button, and then insert the link -- which in the case would be the post #. To get the post number, click on the number and you'll get a dedicated URL that you would enter. For example: A hyperlink to your Sahara Noir post might look like this.

    To be honest, this is a massive amount of work and blackheart might be better served to just use the search function that the thread has built in -- which is what it's there for.

  23. #113

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    At the top of the "reply" box are some tools. The one just to the right of the emoticon icons is the one you'd use to make a link. Highlight whatever word it is you want to hyperlink to, click that button, and then insert the link -- which in the case would be the post #. To get the post number, click on the number and you'll get a dedicated URL that you would enter. For example: A hyperlink to your Sahara Noir post might look like this.

    To be honest, this is a massive amount of work and blackheart might be better served to just use the search function that the thread has built in -- which is what it's there for.
    Great explanation! Thanks, deadidol. Since I'm not very far along, I'll put it to use and amend the first post.

  24. #114

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by OctaVariuM View Post
    As an aside, I think I need to figure out what opoponax smells like, ....
    I had the same question about several mysterious notes, so I sent for absolutes and essential oils to become familiar with them. Let me take a shot at describing opoponax. It's a resin, also known as sweet myrrh, tapped from Burseraceae trees and shrubs in Somalia, Ethiopia, S. Arabia, etc. Since Roman times it's been used in perfumery. It has a bright, astringent muskiness, like combining eucalyptus and mud, and is said to impart a sweet smokiness to scents. It's more astringent and less mellow than Frankincense. As for myrrh...shucks, don't have any to compare. I don't really get tobacco or oud from it, tho if you put them together and added eucalyptus, maybe.

  25. #115

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    I had the same question about several mysterious notes, so I sent for absolutes and essential oils to become familiar with them. Let me take a shot at describing opoponax. It's a resin, also known as sweet myrrh, tapped from Burseraceae trees and shrubs in Somalia, Ethiopia, S. Arabia, etc. Since Roman times it's been used in perfumery. It has a bright, astringent muskiness, like combining eucalyptus and mud, and is said to impart a sweet smokiness to scents. It's more astringent and less mellow than Frankincense. As for myrrh...shucks, don't have any to compare. I don't really get tobacco or oud from it, tho if you put them together and added eucalyptus, maybe.
    I missed this question and could have probably answered it, too. But nice descriptions, SF! BTW, are you diluting your materials? When you sniff an absolute or an EO, it actually smells a little different to what it would in a perfume as alcohol actually brings out the true characteristics of the material as it would appear. So, if you haven't already, try diluting your materials to about 20% (maybe even 10% depending on the material) to get a better sense of what the actual scent profile will be. Myrrh is a material I tend to leave around 50% though. And be sure to use perfumer's alcohol (you can get it quite easily here).

    Frankincense is resinous with a subtle citric bitterness to it. It can vary quite a bit depending on the extraction, but that's the general profile.
    Opoponax, however, is more camphorous and leafy smelling. If you know galbanum at all, it's closer to that. It's more stemmy and medicinal than frankincense.
    Cistus is similar to Opoponax, but is slightly sweeter with a little bit of a powdery feel to it. It's not quite as sharp as opoponax.
    Myrrh will vary quite a bit depending on the extraction, but in general it's a subtle, earthy resin that actually has a little bit of a soil / gravel tone to it.
    Styrax is a creamy, subtley vanillic note that gives amber much of its character. It smells a little chemical, like varnish.
    Benzoin is creamy, with a subtle tonka note to it. It's also a key player in amber, but is more subdued.
    Labdanum is like a tamer version of styrax, leaning more toward benzoin.
    Cypriol will sometimes make an appearance in incense blends too, and it's a resin that you'd recognize as central to many oud fragrances.

    They all have variations depending on where they were harvested and by what methods, but in general, that's what the key players for incense smell like. Hope that helps!

  26. #116

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    I'm enjoying reading every bit of this thread. Thank you ScentFan.
    Hypocrites will always be a thorn in my back....and my middle finger will always be the best remedy.....

  27. #117

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    I missed this question and could have probably answered it, too. But nice descriptions, SF! BTW, are you diluting your materials? When you sniff an absolute or an EO, it actually smells a little different to what it would in a perfume as alcohol actually brings out the true characteristics of the material as it would appear. So, if you haven't already, try diluting your materials to about 20% (maybe even 10% depending on the material) to get a better sense of what the actual scent profile will be. Myrrh is a material I tend to leave around 50% though. And be sure to use perfumer's alcohol (you can get it quite easily here).

    Frankincense is resinous with a subtle citric bitterness to it. It can vary quite a bit depending on the extraction, but that's the general profile.
    Opoponax, however, is more camphorous and leafy smelling. If you know galbanum at all, it's closer to that. It's more stemmy and medicinal than frankincense.
    Cistus is similar to Opoponax, but is slightly sweeter with a little bit of a powdery feel to it. It's not quite as sharp as opoponax.
    Myrrh will vary quite a bit depending on the extraction, but in general it's a subtle, earthy resin that actually has a little bit of a soil / gravel tone to it.
    Styrax is a creamy, subtley vanillic note that gives amber much of its character. It smells a little chemical, like varnish.
    Benzoin is creamy, with a subtle tonka note to it. It's also a key player in amber, but is more subdued.
    Labdanum is like a tamer version of styrax, leaning more toward benzoin.
    Cypriol will sometimes make an appearance in incense blends too, and it's a resin that you'd recognize as central to many oud fragrances.

    They all have variations depending on where they were harvested and by what methods, but in general, that's what the key players for incense smell like. Hope that helps!
    Very informative
    Hypocrites will always be a thorn in my back....and my middle finger will always be the best remedy.....

  28. #118
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    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    At the top of the "reply" box are some tools. The one just to the right of the emoticon icons is the one you'd use to make a link. Highlight whatever word it is you want to hyperlink to, click that button, and then insert the link -- which in the case would be the post #. To get the post number, click on the number and you'll get a dedicated URL that you would enter. For example: A hyperlink to your Sahara Noir post might look like this.

    To be honest, this is a massive amount of work and blackheart might be better served to just use the search function that the thread has built in -- which is what it's there for.
    Could we enshrine this one somewhere for future reference pls?
    Last edited by lpp; 23rd January 2014 at 01:36 PM.

  29. #119
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    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    I missed this question and could have probably answered it, too. But nice descriptions, SF! BTW, are you diluting your materials? When you sniff an absolute or an EO, it actually smells a little different to what it would in a perfume as alcohol actually brings out the true characteristics of the material as it would appear. So, if you haven't already, try diluting your materials to about 20% (maybe even 10% depending on the material) to get a better sense of what the actual scent profile will be. Myrrh is a material I tend to leave around 50% though. And be sure to use perfumer's alcohol (you can get it quite easily here).

    Frankincense is resinous with a subtle citric bitterness to it. It can vary quite a bit depending on the extraction, but that's the general profile.
    Opoponax, however, is more camphorous and leafy smelling. If you know galbanum at all, it's closer to that. It's more stemmy and medicinal than frankincense.
    Cistus is similar to Opoponax, but is slightly sweeter with a little bit of a powdery feel to it. It's not quite as sharp as opoponax.
    Myrrh will vary quite a bit depending on the extraction, but in general it's a subtle, earthy resin that actually has a little bit of a soil / gravel tone to it.
    Styrax is a creamy, subtley vanillic note that gives amber much of its character. It smells a little chemical, like varnish.
    Benzoin is creamy, with a subtle tonka note to it. It's also a key player in amber, but is more subdued.
    Labdanum is like a tamer version of styrax, leaning more toward benzoin.
    Cypriol will sometimes make an appearance in incense blends too, and it's a resin that you'd recognize as central to many oud fragrances.

    They all have variations depending on where they were harvested and by what methods, but in general, that's what the key players for incense smell like. Hope that helps!
    DI this a really good post.

    Would be able to spare a couple more minutes and give as an example fragrance of your favourite for each of these variants? Just a thought...

  30. #120

    Default Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Here’s my updated list, beginning with the yet-to-be-sniffed. 17 down, 40 to go. Asterisks indicate favorites so far. Ordered a few extra Tiziana Terenzis in and just sniffed them. Lovely, lovely! Perhaps I’ll end up a mostly niche perfumista...


    Sniffed

    *Naomi Goodsir, Bois d’Ascèse (couldn't wait, already ordered)

    Scentfan, I love Bois d’Ascèse, that smokiness is just so well done, very nice choice. I'm just waiting on a lovely bell Jar of Lutens La Myrrhe. The aldehydes in the opening might make you sneeze but the myrrhe has a lovely aniseed quality to it and might be worth a sniff.
    We live only to discover beauty. All else is a form of waiting. ~Kahlil Gibran
    Currently wearing: Sycomore (new) by Chanel

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