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  1. #1

    Default Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    From wwd.com:
    Christine Nagel will join Hermès International as a perfumer in March [2014] to work alongside its in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. Most recently, Nagel was vice president of fine fragrance creation at Mane, creating such scents as Sì by Giorgio Armani, Elle L’Aime by Lolita Lempicka, Flash by Jimmy Choo and Rosa de Tous.

    “In working with Christine Nagel, [Ellena’s] wish is to begin a process of transmission of the philosophy and creativity of Hermès Parfums, thereby establishing the way for a happy succession when the time comes,” the company said in a statement.

    “The arrival of Jean-Claude Ellena in 2004 marked the start of a new journey for Hermès. Ten years later, we are enriching our story with a
    new and wonderful partnership. Together with Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Hermès’ artistic director, we strongly believe that Christine Nagel will use her personality and talent to write a new chapter of the history of perfumery at Hermès,” stated Catherine Fulconis, chief executive officer of Hermès Parfums.


    Radio interview in French from 2012, Christine Nagel and Jean-Claude Ellena, Hermès in-house perfumer, developed their thoughts on:
    "Does our present time have a smell?"



    Examples of fragrances that Nagel has authored or co-auhored:

    Cartier Delices de Cartier
    Cartier Eau de Cartier
    Cartier Eau de Cartier Concentree
    Chopard Madness
    Dior Miss Dior Chérie (the original from 2005)
    Etat Libre d'Orange Archives 69
    Fendi Theorema
    Giorgio Armani Si
    Guerlain Chypre Fatal
    Guerlain Oriental Brûlant
    Guerlain Gourmand Coquin
    Jo Malone Amber & Patchouli, plus 18 other fragrances for Jo Malone
    Lagerfeld Femme
    Lagerfeld Man
    Lalique Encre Noire Pour Elle
    Lancome 2000 et Une Rose
    Lancome Hypnose Senses
    Lolita Lempicka Si Lolita
    Narciso Rodriguez for her
    Thierry Mugler A*Men Pure Coffee
    Thierry Mugler B*Men
    Versace Woman
    Yves Rocher Rose Absolue


    Reading through the list of her creations I get the feeling that Guerlain seems like a better fit for her, but nobody asked me
    Last edited by furrypine; 14th December 2013 at 10:54 AM.
    "The cure for boredom is curiosity.
    There is no cure for curiosity."
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Thanks for the info., furrypine!

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    As always Furrypine, thanks for the latest info installment.
    (1552)
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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Doesn't seem like a good fit. IMO
    RHM's Vintage, Rare & Pretty Darn Good items on offer: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/380...old-Pour-Femme

  5. #5

    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Thanks for the info.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Don't forget Mauboussin!

    http://www.parfumo.net/Perfumes/Mauboussin/Mauboussin

    She's extremely talented, and she's not particularly wedded to transparency. I've always held her name in high regard, and as an asset to any fragrance. So this seems like an interesting possibility for Hermès - a new chapter. And if anybody can transmit the je ne sais quoi of Hermès to a new perfumer, it's JCE.

    Her style is sometimes bolder than Jean-Claude's. I think that's good for a positive change at Hermès. The scents will be less predictable, and may echo some of the older ones.

    Trying to look at it in a positive light. But I don't know where her head is at, right now, so I have concerns like RHM. Fingers crossed for Hermès.
    * * * *

  7. #7

    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Don't forget Mauboussin!
    Her style is sometimes bolder than Jean-Claude's.
    I think that's good for a positive change at Hermès.
    Fingers crossed for Hermès.
    RNP, being a fan of Mauboussin, I definitely respect her work; however, I feel it might still go either way; if Ellena wields the control's, then Hermes will remain the way it is, churning out "Ellena" type grt smelling parfums that are gone in 2 hrs, which will lead to poor sales...

    Wait & watch i guess...

  8. #8

    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Thank you. We will have to see how the new arrangement fits.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Great perfumer. Theorema is one of the best ever made.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Quote Originally Posted by badarun View Post
    RNP, being a fan of Mauboussin, I definitely respect her work; however, I feel it might still go either way; if Ellena wields the control's, then Hermes will remain the way it is, churning out "Ellena" type grt smelling parfums that are gone in 2 hrs, which will lead to poor sales...

    Wait & watch i guess...
    I understand your fears.

    I was encouraged by this paragraph, which I found on cafleurebon.com:

    She will be responsible for development of new projects, and M. Ellena will continue to assume the mission of the creation and affirmation of the olfactory style of Hermés. M. Ellena says, “The choice of Christine Nagel is obvious to me. The time that lies before us is that of sharing, freedom and difference.” M. Ellena wants to begin the transmission of the uniqueness of Hermés perfumes to Mme. Nagel and prepare, in due course, for a serene succession.
    I think Ellena understands that Hermès is much greater than any perfumer who takes the helm. Hermès prides itself on a certain artistic vibe that is just a bit hip and quirky yet remaining old-school elegant, and which simply cannot be allowed to become stagnant in any way that it does not consciously wish for. That is what I get from his statement - the realization that his chapter must close, and a new one must begin, for the book to remain worth reading.

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Great perfumer. Theorema is one of the best ever made.
    I finally took the plunge when a few unboxed bottles showed up on the non-eBay discount market. Even with the topnotes faded, it's still clearly a great one. She seems to have a grip on fruity stuff that allows her to create things that stand out from the pack. She has different strengths from JCE, and yet there are certain aspects of Theorema that are very close to his stuff, and that gives me hope that this will indeed be a smooth transition. I'm excited by the fact that she will be handling new projects, and not just apprenticing.
    * * * *

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    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    It's entirely possible that this entire post is going to sound like more of a troll than I intend, but...

    Let's not kid ourselves - this is an obvious ploy by Hermes to make their perfumes more mainstream. You know when you sample a stupid, mass-market fruity floral, one of those marshmallow fluff Skittles things, but then you notice that there's something really interesting in the background, like a very clever use of licorice or smoke or something, and you think "this is an un-artful perfume designed for mass appeal, but it was clearly made by a good perfumer. That's what I think of Nagel as, and she's never really stepped away from that corporate milieu enough for us to know what she's really capable of (hands down, when we did that Guerlain collection pass-around a couple of years ago, hers stood out like pairs of Sketchers Shape-Ups in a Dior shoe boutique). If she just had a couple of interesting pieces for L'Artisan or a candle for Malle, I'd be less worried.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    It's entirely possible that this entire post is going to sound like more of a troll than I intend, but...

    Let's not kid ourselves - this is an obvious ploy by Hermes to make their perfumes more mainstream. You know when you sample a stupid, mass-market fruity floral, one of those marshmallow fluff Skittles things, but then you notice that there's something really interesting in the background, like a very clever use of licorice or smoke or something, and you think "this is an un-artful perfume designed for mass appeal, but it was clearly made by a good perfumer. That's what I think of Nagel as, and she's never really stepped away from that corporate milieu enough for us to know what she's really capable of (hands down, when we did that Guerlain collection pass-around a couple of years ago, hers stood out like pairs of Sketchers Shape-Ups in a Dior shoe boutique). If she just had a couple of interesting pieces for L'Artisan or a candle for Malle, I'd be less worried.
    +1 This is exactly why I do not think Christine Nagel is a good fit for Hermes.
    RHM's Vintage, Rare & Pretty Darn Good items on offer: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/380...old-Pour-Femme

  13. #13

    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    It will be interesting to see how Hermes tackle the many & varied challenges faced in today's market.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    It's entirely possible that this entire post is going to sound like more of a troll than I intend, but...

    Let's not kid ourselves - this is an obvious ploy by Hermes to make their perfumes more mainstream. You know when you sample a stupid, mass-market fruity floral, one of those marshmallow fluff Skittles things, but then you notice that there's something really interesting in the background, like a very clever use of licorice or smoke or something, and you think "this is an un-artful perfume designed for mass appeal, but it was clearly made by a good perfumer. That's what I think of Nagel as, and she's never really stepped away from that corporate milieu enough for us to know what she's really capable of (hands down, when we did that Guerlain collection pass-around a couple of years ago, hers stood out like pairs of Sketchers Shape-Ups in a Dior shoe boutique). If she just had a couple of interesting pieces for L'Artisan or a candle for Malle, I'd be less worried.
    I hear you. I look at what she did for Cartier, and between Delices (a fruity floral that still appeals to my Ellena-loving wife) and Eau de Cartier & Concentree (things which appeal to me), I would say that Hermès brought in somebody who pleased both the art and commerce factions. She is capable of Theorema and Mauboussin, but she can pull out 21+ Jo Malone scents when needed.

    I wanted to credit her with Guerlain's Boise Torride, but that was Wasser. I think that's the sexiest juice that Guerlain ever created - Shalimar be damned. I suppose that's because my nose isn't looking for a princess, but still.

    We'll see. Surely Ellena had some input. I would hope. He gets Hermès in a big way, and his opinion had to count, so she could not have been brought in over his objection. Maybe he thinks she's moldable to the house schtick, like Wasser proved to be. Perhaps he thinks she's good for some more Theoremas.
    * * * *

  15. #15

    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    What happened Monsieur Ellena was over burden......Thx for this info!!!!
    "Thank GOD for the nose, for without it we would not be enjoying these beautiful created Scents" also Remember "Balance is everything and the key to appreciating "

  16. #16

    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    Let's not kid ourselves - this is an obvious ploy by Hermes to make their perfumes more mainstream. You know when you sample a stupid, mass-market fruity floral, one of those marshmallow fluff Skittles things, but then you notice that there's something really interesting in the background, like a very clever use of licorice or smoke or something, and you think "this is an un-artful perfume designed for mass appeal, but it was clearly made by a good perfumer. That's what I think of Nagel as.
    I am with you on that. I'm thinking Hermes saw the roaring success Guerlain had with La Petite Robe Noire, but knew that Ellena was never going to give them a charming fruity-floral or a flirty gourmand that would pull in the younger crowd. Jour d'Hermes is probably as far as he can be pushed in that direction.

    Ellena leaves behind a great legacy but I will be disappointed if they force Nagel to follow the pale & transparent road map he laid out. I hope Nagel gets the freedom to give Hermes, and us, Theorema 2.0 and others in that style. So, more mainstream, but the good kind
    "The cure for boredom is curiosity.
    There is no cure for curiosity."
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    All I can say is, if Christine Nagel had a hand in creating the magnificent Narcisso Rodriquez for her then I have to try that entire list you posted. I only own one Hermes, 24 Faubourg, but the two seem a stylistic fit. I'm excited to see what comes out next. Thanks for posting this info.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Most major houses have been lackadaisical in launching original male fragrances, Hemès included. Their last original release being Terre d'Hermès in 2006, which was definitely a signature composition for Ellena's legacy.

    What I'm looking forward from Nagel, much like others have mentioned here, are more traditional compositions such as Equipage, Rocabar & Bel-Ami. Enough with the Eau's & Hermessence's already, please Mrs. Nagel, bring back the Hermès of old!

    Ironically, there is IMHO a window of opportunity for this house to present a modern take on the traditional leather chypre. They're slowly coming back in style & Hermès would do good to jump on that revival bandwagon.

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    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    All I can say is, if Christine Nagel had a hand in creating the magnificent Narcisso Rodriquez for her then I have to try that entire list you posted. I only own one Hermes, 24 Faubourg, but the two seem a stylistic fit. I'm excited to see what comes out next. Thanks for posting this info.
    I didn't realize that she did the amazing A*Men Pure Coffee. Grown men have been known to fight over the few available bottles. I will neither confirm nor deny that I have one.

    Quote Originally Posted by Arij View Post
    Most major houses have been lackadaisical in launching original male fragrances, Hemès included. Their last original release being Terre d'Hermès in 2006, which was definitely a signature composition for Ellena's legacy.

    What I'm looking forward from Nagel, much like others have mentioned here, are more traditional compositions such as Equipage, Rocabar & Bel-Ami. Enough with the Eau's & Hermessence's already, please Mrs. Nagel, bring back the Hermès of old!

    Ironically, there is IMHO a window of opportunity for this house to present a modern take on the traditional leather chypre. They're slowly coming back in style & Hermès would do good to jump on that revival bandwagon.
    YES. I agree - a careful, not-too-obvious shift back to a more classic men's style would be good. But keep it as non-stodgy as possible. A sort of fresh classic thing. The last thing anybody wants to think is Hermès jumping on somebody else's bandwagon. So whatever they do, it has to be non-obvious.
    * * * *

  20. #20

    Default Re: Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    It's entirely possible that this entire post is going to sound like more of a troll than I intend, but...

    Let's not kid ourselves - this is an obvious ploy by Hermes to make their perfumes more mainstream. You know when you sample a stupid, mass-market fruity floral, one of those marshmallow fluff Skittles things, but then you notice that there's something really interesting in the background, like a very clever use of licorice or smoke or something, and you think "this is an un-artful perfume designed for mass appeal, but it was clearly made by a good perfumer. That's what I think of Nagel as, and she's never really stepped away from that corporate milieu enough for us to know what she's really capable of (hands down, when we did that Guerlain collection pass-around a couple of years ago, hers stood out like pairs of Sketchers Shape-Ups in a Dior shoe boutique). If she just had a couple of interesting pieces for L'Artisan or a candle for Malle, I'd be less worried.
    Since being taken over by LVMH they've downgraded everything.

    I agree with you.

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  21. #21
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    Default Christine Nagel new perfumer at Hermes

    Hermes' perfume sales have doubled since making Ellena in-house perfumer in 2004, so if their rationale in hiring Nagel is to make their perfumes more "mainstream", I don't understand this at all. If higher sales are a sign of greater mass appeal, Ellena's work made Hermes' fragrances more mainstream than they had ever been.

    I think Ellena just isn't planning on sticking around at Hermes much longer. It's been a ten year run, after all. Hermes made a choice for a new perfumer and brought her in early to facilitate a smoother transition, so that what Ellena helped achieve for Hermes doesn't go out the window the day after he's gone. Nagel won't be the perfumer Ellena was, but there is a signature to Hermes' fragrances that Ellena helped establish over the past ten years that proved successful and profitable for the company, and to me it would make sense that Hermes would want to preserve it.


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    Last edited by Wingie; 22nd December 2013 at 01:23 AM.

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