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  1. #1

    Default Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Hello,

    This is my first post on basenotes. I have already a collection of raw materials largely inspired by Ellena selection listed in "Le Parfum".

    In order to complete my collection, I am looking for Paprika Absolute (or Oleoresin ?). I found only one site selling this product but this the product contains +/- 8% capscicin which is highly irritant (to avoid in perfumes...) Where could I find this raw material ?

    And it was hard to find mugwort (armoise). I finally found and bought essential oil from "artemisia herba alba", but cannot manage to find from "artemisia vulgaris". Which one is used in perfumery ? Are they smelling different ?

    Thank you in advance...

  2. #2
    David Ruskin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Oleoresins tend to be used for Flavours, hence, in this case the presence of Capsaicin. I have never heard of Paprika Absolute, maybe it was once used but I don't think so now. The two most commonly used Armoise oils are Artemesia alba also known as Armoise oil; and Artemesia annua also known as Artemesia oil.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Hello David,

    Thank you for your answer. I really appreciate. I learned a lot of things from your answers to other's posts !!!

    Regarding Paprika, Ellena listed "Paprika absolu" and I have noticed he created in 2006 a perfume called "Paprika Brasil". But I guess I can live without this material...


    Regarding Armoise, I understand I got what I was looking for. I just found a site selling artemisia (artemesia ?) annua. Quiet expensive. I wonder if it's worth the price to get it...
    Last edited by Jardin du Luxembourg; 15th December 2013 at 10:22 AM.

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    David Ruskin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    I'm surprised you think Artemesia is expensive; when I was working it was one of the cheaper oils. If you can think of something to replace it with that is cheaper go ahead; I can't. The smell of Armoise and Artemesia, together with Sage and Cedarleaf (all contain various amounts of thujones) is unique and cannot be replaced with anything else.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    The only site where I found armoise is proxisante.com (if allowed to mention it ?) :
    - Armoise annuelle (artemisia annua L.) : 29,90€ / 10ml and 59,90€ / 30ml
    - Armoise blanche (artemisa herba alba) : 9,20€ / 10ml and 21,50€ / 30ml
    (2 or 3 years ago, I paid only 5,40€ / 10ml !!!)
    Last edited by Jardin du Luxembourg; 15th December 2013 at 06:44 PM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Quote Originally Posted by Jardin du Luxembourg View Post
    ..., but cannot manage to find from "artemisia vulgaris". Which one is used in perfumery ? Are they smelling different ?

    Thank you in advance...
    Not sure if this helps: http://www.maienfelser-naturkosmetik...roducts_id=120
    They also have dependances in Austria, Switzerland and the Netherlands.

  7. #7
    Basenotes Junkie Nizan's Avatar
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Found something cool on that site!

    http://www.maienfelser-naturkosmetik...oducts_id=1588

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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    You can find some artemisias in http://www.hermitageoils.com/.

  9. #9
    Basenotes Junkie Nizan's Avatar
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    How do you work with wormwood in perfumery? I find the smell pretty offensive.. (Could be that what I have is fake, though).. I guess in very low dilutions, like 1%? What is it good for?
    Thanks!

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    One of Mr. Bartlett's (Artemisia) uses A.absinthum prominently - in there it's a very 'dry' herbal, almost silvery kind of thing, very nice.

    http://pellwall-perfumes.blogspot.co...ural.html#more
    Last edited by lpp; 15th December 2013 at 08:41 PM.

  11. #11
    Paul Kiler
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    I'm surprised that you had trouble finding Artemesia to buy... There are 200 Artemisia species, but if I count generously, there are about 10-15 that are being distilled.

    Vulgaris shouldn't be that hard to find though...

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

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    Basenotes Junkie Nizan's Avatar
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Bristol Botanicals seem to hold a few artemisias..

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    Basenotes Junkie Nizan's Avatar
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    I guess if my other oils are diluted to 10%, I should start with artemisias (wormwood) at 1%?

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    David Ruskin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Quote Originally Posted by Nizan View Post
    How do you work with wormwood in perfumery? I find the smell pretty offensive.. (Could be that what I have is fake, though).. I guess in very low dilutions, like 1%? What is it good for?
    Thanks!
    Armoise and Artemesia oils are used as Top notes (Top to Middle) and work really well in Masculine fragrances; Fougeres, Herbal Citrus etc. They blend beautifully with Clary Sage, Lavender and Citrus Oils.

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    Basenotes Junkie Nizan's Avatar
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Thanks. I'll give it a try at equal dilutions..
    I think my artemesia might be fake, though.. It has a really medicinal sharp odor.

  16. #16
    Paul Kiler
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Nizan, I can't really see much profit in faking an artemesia, it's not that expensive to distill.

    Artemisia oils can easily be camphoraceous and medicinal...so if you kind of like it, buy other types and see what others that you do actually like...
    Exploration is definitely part of the fun of perfumery.
    And since you are still young in this hobby, please understand that the odor of a Natural, say Patchouli, or Frankincense, or something else, that the first one that you get is not the definitive statement of odor profile for all possible other oils with the same name on it, Usually, ALL WILL DIFFER. Don't let that surprise you, embrace the diversity...

    PK
    Last edited by pkiler; 16th December 2013 at 10:30 PM.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    embrace the diversity...
    PK
    This theme kept coming around and around until I finally took notice and realized that it was an inherent aspect of perfumery. It's the tiny elephant in the room that sits on my work surface and trumpets whenever I make a mistake, hahaha. Now that I've started paying attention to it's tiny elephant needs I'm feeling better about what I'm doing.
    Justin E. Beasley

  18. #18
    Basenotes Junkie Nizan's Avatar
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    Default Re: Paprika absolute & mugwort (armoise) essential oil

    Hmm.. Too bad I didn't know that before I ordered another wormwood today hopefully it'll be different than the one I have. Maybe next month I'll buy some more. Does armoise smell similar to wormwood?

    I don't have an issue with diversity.. I have an issue with trusting my sources

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