This is my first post on basenotes. I have already a collection of raw materials largely inspired by Ellena selection listed in "Le Parfum".
In order to complete my collection, I am looking for Paprika Absolute (or Oleoresin ?). I found only one site selling this product but this the product contains +/- 8% capscicin which is highly irritant (to avoid in perfumes...) Where could I find this raw material ?
And it was hard to find mugwort (armoise). I finally found and bought essential oil from "artemisia herba alba", but cannot manage to find from "artemisia vulgaris". Which one is used in perfumery ? Are they smelling different ?
Oleoresins tend to be used for Flavours, hence, in this case the presence of Capsaicin. I have never heard of Paprika Absolute, maybe it was once used but I don't think so now. The two most commonly used Armoise oils are Artemesia alba also known as Armoise oil; and Artemesia annua also known as Artemesia oil.
I'm surprised you think Artemesia is expensive; when I was working it was one of the cheaper oils. If you can think of something to replace it with that is cheaper go ahead; I can't. The smell of Armoise and Artemesia, together with Sage and Cedarleaf (all contain various amounts of thujones) is unique and cannot be replaced with anything else.
The only site where I found armoise is proxisante.com (if allowed to mention it ?) :
- Armoise annuelle (artemisia annua L.) : 29,90€ / 10ml and 59,90€ / 30ml
- Armoise blanche (artemisa herba alba) : 9,20€ / 10ml and 21,50€ / 30ml
(2 or 3 years ago, I paid only 5,40€ / 10ml !!!)
Last edited by Jardin du Luxembourg; 15th December 2013 at 06:44 PM.
How do you work with wormwood in perfumery? I find the smell pretty offensive.. (Could be that what I have is fake, though).. I guess in very low dilutions, like 1%? What is it good for?
Armoise and Artemesia oils are used as Top notes (Top to Middle) and work really well in Masculine fragrances; Fougeres, Herbal Citrus etc. They blend beautifully with Clary Sage, Lavender and Citrus Oils.
Nizan, I can't really see much profit in faking an artemesia, it's not that expensive to distill.
Artemisia oils can easily be camphoraceous and medicinal...so if you kind of like it, buy other types and see what others that you do actually like...
Exploration is definitely part of the fun of perfumery.
And since you are still young in this hobby, please understand that the odor of a Natural, say Patchouli, or Frankincense, or something else, that the first one that you get is not the definitive statement of odor profile for all possible other oils with the same name on it, Usually, ALL WILL DIFFER. Don't let that surprise you, embrace the diversity...
Last edited by pkiler; 16th December 2013 at 10:30 PM.
This theme kept coming around and around until I finally took notice and realized that it was an inherent aspect of perfumery. It's the tiny elephant in the room that sits on my work surface and trumpets whenever I make a mistake, hahaha. Now that I've started paying attention to it's tiny elephant needs I'm feeling better about what I'm doing.