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  1. #1

    Default Eau de Cologne formulas

    The previous thread discussing cologne formulas was deleted for some reason, so I'll paste some traditional eau de cologne formulas here for the original thread starter.

    From the site that I previously linked to:

    Bergamot oil 27
    Lemon oil Sicilian 20
    Sweet orange oil 16
    Neroli oil 12
    Lavender oil French 6
    Rosemary oil Spanish 4
    Thyme oil white 1
    Clove bud oil 1
    Petitgrain oil 3
    Clary sage oil 2
    Benzoin resinoid, siam 1

    From the book 'Perfumery and Kindred Arts: A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery', by Richard S. Cristiani (1877):

    "No. 1. Eau de Cologne. (J. M. Farina.)

    Oil of bergamot . . 4 fluid ounces.
    lemon . . . 1.5 fluid ounces
    neroli, bigarade 3 fluid ounces
    rosemary 3 fluid ounces
    cloves ... 1/2 fluid ounce
    lavender (best) 1/2 fluid ounce
    Deodorized alcohol . 2.5 gallons.
    Rectified spirit . . 1.5 rectified spirit

    "No. 2. Eau de Cologne. (French recipe.)

    Oil of neroli (petale) . . 3 ounces.
    bergamot . . . 3 ounces
    petit-grain . . . 1 ounces
    cedrat . . . 3 ounces
    orange (Portugal) . . . 5 ounces
    rosemary . . . 3
    Deodorized spirit. 60 proof. . 5.5 gallons.
    Mix well and allow it to rest seven days before
    filtering.

    "No. 3. Eau de Cologne. (Second quality.)

    Oil of bergamot . . . 4 ounces.
    lemon. . . . 4 ounces
    orange . . 4 ounces
    rosemary . . . 3 ounces
    neroli (petale) . . 1 ounces
    petit-grain . . . 2 ounces
    Alcohol, 85 proof. . . . 6 gallons.

    "Cologne water is very volatile, and I have found
    favor for my own recipes because I have made them
    more lasting by adding some fixing ingredient, which
    also tends to correct the odor of the fusel oil which
    remains in the corn spirit, and is unpleasant.

    "No. 4. Eau de Cologne. (Cristiani's.)

    Oil of bergamot .... 8 fl. ounces.
    cedrat . . . . 4 fl. ounces
    rosemary (flowers) . . 4 fl. ounces
    neroli, bigarade . . 2 fl. ounces
    petit-grain . . . 2 fl. ounces
    cloves . . . . 1 fl. ounce
    Extract of orange-flower, No. 1
    (from pomade) . . .1 pint.
    Tincture of ambrette . . 1/4 pint
    Tincture of orris . . . 1/4 pint
    Deodorized alcohol, 95 . . 6 gallons.
    Orange-flower water, triple . . 1 gallon
    This has given general satisfaction, as it approaches
    in odor many of the most celebrated German colognes.

    "Cologne Oil. (Cristiani's Cologne Essence.)

    Oil of rosemary (flowers) . . 8 ounces.
    bergamot , . . . 8ounces.
    orange (Portugal) . . 6 ounces.
    lemon . . . . 4 ounces.
    cedrat . . . . 4 ounces.
    neroli (petale) . . . 4 ounces.
    petit-grain . . . 4 ounces.
    lavender (best) . . 2 ounces.
    cloves . . . . 2 ounces
    Alcohol, 95 proof.... 5.5 pints.
    Four ounces of this essence in 7 pints of alcohol
    and 1 pint of orange-flower water, will make a good
    cologne water suited to the wants of American
    buyers."

    https://archive.org/stream/perfumery.../n118/mode/2up
    Last edited by Pears; 1st June 2018 at 12:12 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Eau de Cologne formulas

    As an additional note, cedrat is the French name for citron (Citrus medica).
    Last edited by Pears; 1st June 2018 at 12:04 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Eau de Cologne formulas

    You'll also find several traditional cologne formulas on pages 252-254, in 'A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery' (1892).

    https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=...ologne&f=false
    Last edited by Pears; 1st June 2018 at 12:18 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Eau de Cologne formulas

    Many thanks for posting these! Personally I'm not a traditional cologne guy but I absolutely like knowing how they are constructed.
    Currently wearing: bne by Pierre Balmain




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