Eau de Cologne formulas

[Pears]

The previous thread discussing cologne formulas was deleted for some reason, so I'll paste some traditional eau de cologne formulas here for the original thread starter.

From the site that I previously linked to:

Bergamot oil 27
Lemon oil Sicilian 20
Sweet orange oil 16
Neroli oil 12
Lavender oil French 6
Rosemary oil Spanish 4
Thyme oil white 1
Clove bud oil 1
Petitgrain oil 3
Clary sage oil 2
Benzoin resinoid, siam 1

From the book 'Perfumery and Kindred Arts: A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery', by Richard S. Cristiani (1877):

"No. 1. Eau de Cologne. (J. M. Farina.)

Oil of bergamot . . 4 fluid ounces.
lemon . . . 1.5 fluid ounces
neroli, bigarade 3 fluid ounces
rosemary 3 fluid ounces
cloves ... 1/2 fluid ounce
lavender (best) 1/2 fluid ounce
Deodorized alcohol . 2.5 gallons.
Rectified spirit . . 1.5 rectified spirit

"No. 2. Eau de Cologne. (French recipe.)

Oil of neroli (petale) . . 3 ounces.
bergamot . . . 3 ounces
petit-grain . . . 1 ounces
cedrat . . . 3 ounces
orange (Portugal) . . . 5 ounces
rosemary . . . 3
Deodorized spirit. 60 proof. . 5.5 gallons.
Mix well and allow it to rest seven days before
filtering.

"No. 3. Eau de Cologne. (Second quality.)

Oil of bergamot . . . 4 ounces.
lemon. . . . 4 ounces
orange . . 4 ounces
rosemary . . . 3 ounces
neroli (petale) . . 1 ounces
petit-grain . . . 2 ounces
Alcohol, 85 proof. . . . 6 gallons.

"Cologne water is very volatile, and I have found
favor for my own recipes because I have made them
more lasting by adding some fixing ingredient, which
also tends to correct the odor of the fusel oil which
remains in the corn spirit, and is unpleasant.

"No. 4. Eau de Cologne. (Cristiani's.)

Oil of bergamot .... 8 fl. ounces.
cedrat . . . . 4 fl. ounces
rosemary (flowers) . . 4 fl. ounces
neroli, bigarade . . 2 fl. ounces
petit-grain . . . 2 fl. ounces
cloves . . . . 1 fl. ounce
Extract of orange-flower, No. 1
(from pomade) . . .1 pint.
Tincture of ambrette . . 1/4 pint
Tincture of orris . . . 1/4 pint
Deodorized alcohol, 95 . . 6 gallons.
Orange-flower water, triple . . 1 gallon
This has given general satisfaction, as it approaches
in odor many of the most celebrated German colognes.

"Cologne Oil. (Cristiani's Cologne Essence.)

Oil of rosemary (flowers) . . 8 ounces.
bergamot , . . . 8ounces.
orange (Portugal) . . 6 ounces.
lemon . . . . 4 ounces.
cedrat . . . . 4 ounces.
neroli (petale) . . . 4 ounces.
petit-grain . . . 4 ounces.
lavender (best) . . 2 ounces.
cloves . . . . 2 ounces
Alcohol, 95 proof.... 5.5 pints.
Four ounces of this essence in 7 pints of alcohol
and 1 pint of orange-flower water, will make a good
cologne water suited to the wants of American
buyers."

https://archive.org/stream/perfumery.../n118/mode/2up

[Pears]

As an additional note, cedrat is the French name for citron (Citrus medica).

[Pears]

You'll also find several traditional cologne formulas on pages 252-254, in 'A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery' (1892).

https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=...ologne&f=false

[Nasenmann]

Many thanks for posting these! Personally I'm not a traditional cologne guy but I absolutely like knowing how they are constructed.