Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 19 of 19
  1. #1

    Default Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    I had the opportunity to try Serge Noir yesterday. Approaching with a bit of trepidation - descriptions of frying onions and tramps's feet running through my head - I sprayed some on paper. There, indeed, was an odd onion note, but I thought what's the worst thing that can happen? and squirted my wrist.

    Huge, complex explosion of aromas. Savoury foods - yes, a fleeting glimpse of sizzling onions - some spices, charred frankincense. The spices are unusual: not the cloves and cumin I was expecting, but something like ajwain and black onion seed. Then it changes to hot spices. Making garam masala at home, and dry-roasting the whole spices in a skillet... But that doesn't last. Frankincense emerges, strong and dirty, tinged with powdered ginger and cloves. If Sahara Noir is the priest swinging the censer and Avignon is the incense stored in the locked vestry, Serge Noir is the church filled with people, washed and unwashed, coming to the midnight mass after cooking and eating their dinner. There isn't a vivid body odour smell, more an impression of humanity, a presence, which reminds me a little of L'Air de Rien in conception (but not in scent). After an hour or so the congregation brings out thick sticks of Chinese sandalwood incense and start to burn those too. Much later, there is a gentle, vanilla-amber dry-down.

    Serge Noir is exhausting but quite beautiful. I think it might be my favourite incense so far.
    Last edited by OdilonRedon; 21st December 2013 at 10:51 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Welcome to the club !

    I love Serge Noire and i think it's a misunderstood sheep.

    Here's my little review on how i feel about it :

    Incense mixed with burned woods.

    Luscious, dark, gothic...

    When first applied, i get the smell of the incense resin itself, the raw dry resin. Add some pepper and wood..... and Voila , here's your opening.

    After 20 -30 minutes, those same incense resins i smelled on top seem to start burning now along with the wood, as if some code inside the scent lit them up. Amazing.

    The drydown is more like the aftermath of the room where all this "fire" took place.

    Highly recommended for cold days.

    This is a masterpiece.
    Hypocrites will always be a thorn in my back....and my middle finger will always be the best remedy.....

  3. #3

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    I appreciate the artistic notion more than the wearing it as a perfume notion.

    To clarify:
    I own & enjoy Cuir Mauresque, Musc Kublai Khan, Mandarine Mandarin, Santal Mysore & others.

    I'm absolutely not sensitive to outlandish creations, in fact I love them. But this one didn't appeal to me but I see the craftsmanship.

    for swap/sale:





  4. #4

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    I appreciate the artistic notion more than the wearing it as a perfume notion.

    To clarify:
    I own & enjoy Cuir Mauresque, Musc Kublai Khan, Mandarine Mandarin, Santal Mysore & others.

    I'm absolutely not sensitive to outlandish creations, in fact I love them. But this one didn't appeal to me but I see the craftsmanship.
    I was expecting outlandish, but I didn't find it particularly challenging at all. I'm guessing there are significant skin compatibility issues with this one.

    The next day, I'm left with a ghost of distinctly funky patchouli. I think that must be the upsetting note up front for some people, in combination with the clove. I didn't really smell it. On me, it's a more or less straightforward incense for most of its life.

  5. #5
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    McLean, NYC, & Búzios
    Posts
    78,156

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Also think that Serge Noir is quite nice. Have tried it on two different occasions.

    (1929)
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals don't warrant or deserve other individuals' acknowledgement or respect.

  6. #6
    Basenotes Plus
    601red's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    640

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Amazing description. Thank you, OdilonRedon and tdwctdwc.
    As a newcomer like myself, such information is very appreciated as we step up our fragrance collection...
    I would be to sample this.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Always nice to see a thread about a Lutens!

    It's one I haven't sampled yet and, as mentioned above, the smell of fried onions isn't quite inviting...

  8. #8

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    on me smelt like acrid stale sweat! i had to layer it with Rousse to give it a sense, when the bottle was finally over never bought a replacement, the drydown was somewhat interesting and animalic to the point that dogs in the park looked at me puzzled!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Quote Originally Posted by TLS View Post
    Always nice to see a thread about a Lutens!

    It's one I haven't sampled yet and, as mentioned above, the smell of fried onions isn't quite inviting...
    I don't get onions.
    Doesn't mean it's not there but perception of scent is different among people.
    Last edited by hedonist222; 21st December 2013 at 04:02 PM.

    for swap/sale:





  10. #10

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    I don't get onions.
    Doesn't it's not there but perception of scent is different among people.
    I should get a sample… thank's for letting me know.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Beautiful words, OdilonRedon! I aspire to your nose. I'm about to begin an Incense Sniff-Fest and will make sure Serge Noir is among the samples.

  12. #12
    Super Member chopwet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lausanne, Switzerland
    Posts
    621

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Quote Originally Posted by OdilonRedon View Post

    ... There, indeed, was an odd onion note...Savoury foods - yes, a fleeting glimpse of sizzling onions... something like ajwain and black onion seed. ...garam masala... dry-roasting the whole spices in a skillet... ...Serge Noir is the church filled with people, washed and unwashed, coming to the midnight mass after cooking and eating their dinner....
    I like Serge Noire but I've only tried it once. While I appreciate your artistic interpretation and I fully accept that my nose isn't very finely tuned, I do find that Serge Noir smells nothing at all like the above elements. It might give the impression of the above but I really found that it didn't smell like anything to do with curry spices. The impression of garam masala spices and church just doesn't mix very well, then again, I've never been to church in India so what do I know? I do see the spices but not in the savoury, roasted, curry sense.

    I remember cinnamon, incense and perhaps some clove, maybe some woods too. Thanks for your impressions, it makes me want to try it again!

  13. #13
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Southeastern Arizona
    Posts
    2,059

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    I'm always intrigued by this house. You've just made this one sound quite interesting. Frying onions actually sounds very good,at least to est.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Quote Originally Posted by chopwet View Post
    I like Serge Noire but I've only tried it once. While I appreciate your artistic interpretation and I fully accept that my nose isn't very finely tuned, I do find that Serge Noir smells nothing at all like the above elements. It might give the impression of the above but I really found that it didn't smell like anything to do with curry spices. The impression of garam masala spices and church just doesn't mix very well, then again, I've never been to church in India so what do I know? I do see the spices but not in the savoury, roasted, curry sense.

    I remember cinnamon, incense and perhaps some clove, maybe some woods too. Thanks for your impressions, it makes me want to try it again!
    Good! You're right, though: there's no 'curry' note. It's the whole spices, being heated - cinnamon stick, whole cloves, peppercorns, cumin. Woody and aromatic but not necessarily foody. Quickly gives way to the incense.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Beautiful words, OdilonRedon! I aspire to your nose. I'm about to begin an Incense Sniff-Fest and will make sure Serge Noir is among the samples.
    Thank you! I'm really enjoying your Sniff-Fests... Serge Noir seems to be intensely polarising, which is what makes it interesting.
    Last edited by OdilonRedon; 21st December 2013 at 07:59 PM.

  16. #16
    Dependent Arij's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Montréal
    Posts
    1,050

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    In my case, it was love at first whiff.

    I'm also surprised few mention the camphor note/accord, which is what probably turns a lot of people away from it.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    Quote Originally Posted by OdilonRedon View Post
    Good! You're right, though: there's no 'curry' note. It's the whole spices, being heated - cinnamon stick, whole cloves, peppercorns, cumin. Woody and aromatic but not necessarily foody. Quickly gives way to the incense.
    This is what I get as well. I don't get anything animalic or dirty with this fragrance. I really like it. Reminds me of Diptyque L'Eau.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    ^ apt reference to L'Eau imo.

    It's interesting how varied our perceptions can be.

    I like SN. The bottle sits close to Piper Nigrum on my shelf. Simply put, I get peppery spice & camphorous clove... or is it camphorous spice & peppery clove? No matter. In context, my mind's eye sees this:

    sl - noxema.jpg

    It's great on sunburn too.
    Simplex Sigillum Veri

  19. #19

    Default Re: Serge Noir - oh, the humanity!

    I had always thought this was a dirty cumin bomb, guess not. I'll have to try this.

Similar Threads

  1. Serge lutens nombre noir
    By david in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 12th October 2012, 05:19 AM
  2. Serge Lutens Chergui or Serge Noir?Which is more oriental?
    By pistola in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: 24th March 2012, 02:09 AM
  3. Finally I start to like Serge Noir from Serge Lutens
    By Tristan in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 12th June 2011, 01:10 PM
  4. Serge Lutens - Datura Noir review
    By SilkandSteel in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 3rd September 2005, 04:29 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •