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  1. #1

    Default Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Not sure if this has been mentioned before - I did try a search but got nothing immediately related to the link.

    The interview follows the release of 'Fate' in the summer of 2013, but there is some more general discussion as well.

    http://arabia.style.com/beauty/beaut...ng-of-amouage/

    Some interesting points made here but CC. I'm quoting a few of them below.

    On feminine/masculine perfume:
    When I create a perfume, I donít think about a woman or a man. For me, a perfume should not have any gender but we are doing this in a collection for a man or a woman for commercial reasons with department stores, duty frees, and retailers around the world. Also, men are very backwards aside from the Arabs. They would not buy a perfume if itís a ďfemaleĒ perfume. But when I set my mind to doing a perfume I donít think about if itís for a man or a woman.
    On synthetics:
    So they work with synthetic molecules?
    They do. Itís amazing. Itís more expensive because with synthetics you can capture the right smell, the right mood, whereas with raw material itís supplemental. Synthetics are much more interesting.
    On the perfume industry:
    Whatís the future of the perfume industry? How do you imagine it evolving?
    In terms of the market, there will be more and more perfumes. Weíve gone through all the celebrity phases but now itís not just the celebrities; everyone thinks that they can do it.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Thanks, rum - it was posted on Huddler at some stage, but interesting to read again!

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    I guess I hadn't read it before. Nice to see the link again. Thanks for this Rum.

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  4. #4

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Interesting interview. As usual, the important questions are not there (why is amouage watering down its previous masterpieces?). he would have lied anyway.

    cacio

  5. #5

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Nice interview. Thanks.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Thank you

  7. #7

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    I would have wanted to ask him why Beloved Woman and Man are his limited/special editions.

    And...what kind of conecpt does he have for the future (for Amouage)?

  8. #8

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Thanks for the link Rum! I don't like his style at all , but it was an interesting read.

    Is he wearing capri pants? And dress shoes with no socks? Wow, I guess I really don't like his style...

  9. #9

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Interesting interview. As usual, the important questions are not there (why is amouage watering down its previous masterpieces?). he would have lied anyway.

    cacio
    This seems to be your stock line whenever an Amouage post appears, cacio. I do seem to remember seeing it come up in one interview and the simple answer is that, (like Guerlain, Malle and other favourite lines of mine), Amouage has to be IFRA compliant. No big deal. Bloody unfortunate, of course, but blame the EU and IFRA.

    I was talking about this with Christopher when he was over for the Interlude launch and the light at the end of the tunnel is that now 'the rules' are in place (until some f***wit needs to extend his contract at the EU lab and looks for something else to go after) at least the creative directors and the perfumers can push the envelope as far as possible knowing where the ceiling is. I forget the %'s but he made the point that with Interlude the concentration was pushed to the IFRA limit, and I think with the new Fate duo it's also clear no-one is getting short changed on bang for their buck in terms of concentration.

    Why do you have to single out one brand?
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 31st December 2013 at 03:16 AM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Indeed, that's a recurrent theme of mine. but then, there's enough advertisement already. if a company is selling a subpar product, whatever the cause, they should be told so.

    After all, Amouage is still asking the same price for their stuff, and it's not cheap, and, like everybody else, they don't say what has changed, so that people can find themselves dumping a couple hundred dollars into something that turns out to be not what they wanted. Besides, why are they following IFRA? They appear to do so even in the oils, which are mostly a Middle Eastern affair.

    Amouage is also not the only company to be singled out. Guerlain takes, correctly, a lot of beating here, and Dior is beyond that.

    But I agree that in some of the new stuff, Amouage has found great forms within the limitations. and I also agree that Amouage can do little but axe their old stuff, unlike other brand owners (LVMH anyone) who instead would have big clout, if they only cared.

    cacio

  11. #11

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    here is another interview that was done earlier, see his top perfumes at the end:
    http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scenteds...ristopher.html

  12. #12

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Thanks for posting, salim96!

  13. #13

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Quote Originally Posted by lpp View Post
    Thanks for posting, salim96!
    Lpp, I remember that I read this interview back in 2008, I only recognized one or two back then

  14. #14

    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Things have changed so much since then, salim96!
    There are so many more challenges for perfumers now.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Interview with Christopher Chong of Amouage

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    ... and the light at the end of the tunnel is that now 'the rules' are in place (until some f***wit needs to extend his contract at the EU lab and looks for something else to go after) at least the creative directors and the perfumers can push the envelope as far as possible knowing where the ceiling is.
    That, unfortunately, is the problem. Governance is never happy until it finds something new to change or control. As more and more things fall under control, only the most complex and sophisticated problems are left, so people with lots of power and not much finesse tend to pursue easier problems - fixing the unbroken.

    I don't see IFRA backing down from its continued pruning of perfumery, until there are economic incentives for abandoning its long march.

    One way out of this - which is a bit of a technological fix that the big boys are capable of - is to "dual-purpose" fragrances: make them IFRA-compliant hogwash at normal spray levels, but tailor their true beauty to come out at "absurd" spray levels. It's a bit like chemical steganography - take something sensible and dilute it into something different which is also sensible. Theoretically, if most of your good stuff is in the heart and base, there is no way to effectively stop this. I got this idea from Polo Red, which is rather pleasant but non-descript when you spray on just a bit, but which becomes much more interesting (and actually less "synthetic") when you spray it on big. Just like steganography, all you need on the other end is something to extract - in our case, the knowledge that 15 sprays of some 2025 IFRA-compliant horror will pile up to smell exactly like 3 sprays of a 1925 fragrance. All you have to do is tailor the "true" fragrance to emerge quickly and accurately from a bunch of alcohol and lighter components. You sell the poster of Justin Bieber to the chumps, and you sell the internal image of the Renoir to the people who can appreciate it. I can imagine that perfumery could come up with various stock algorithms that would enable a brilliant vintage fragrance to be covered up as a banal cologne that would get the nod from the bureaucrat. It's a bit like hiding the forbidden oil painting behind the picture of Big Brother. On second thought, that's exactly what it's like.

    Vive la rťsistance de parfum!
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