I love the exclusives. Thierry Wasser and co
Thread: What is your favorite Guerlain?
Since I've been getting into Guerlain, I thought it might be fun for folks to share which is their favorite and why.
I have become completely enamoured with Shalimar, especially vintage, though I don't snub the modern EdT either. So far, I've collected a vintage Parfum and two EdC's. I could easily bathe in this stuff.
I've also picked up a vintage Mitsouko EdT and think it'll become a favorite as well.
And then there is the Jicky Edt I purchased, but I have no idea the specific vintage nor how to tell. I can however, tell that I'd like to have a more concentrated version.
I've got Habit Rouge but find I have a love hate thing going with this one, must learn to apply the correct amount I believe.
I've also tried Samsara, Insolence, Apres L'Ondee, Chamade, Champs Elysee, Champ D'Aromes, L'Heure Bleue (haven't gotten to know this one enough yet I think), L'Instant de Guerlain, Encens Mythyique D'Orient, Rose Nacree du Desert, Song d'Une Bois D'Ete, Chypre Fatale, Nahema, Rose Barbare
There are more on my list to try, in particular Vol de Nuit, must try that one. But what about you, what are you in love with from Guerlain and why? Please specify vintage and concentration (as per Cacio's brilliant suggestion)
Last edited by danieq; 10th January 2014 at 04:58 AM.
I love the exclusives. Thierry Wasser and co
References to Guerlain must come with a vintage and concentration specification, such is the variability, especially after the disastrous IFRA restrictions.
I keep moving around with my favorites. At some point it was Chamade (perhaps because it came out during my birth year). Now it would probably be more like Heure Bleue (vintage, ca va sans dire). But Shalimar is always good (btw, you'll like Vol de nuit if you like Shalimar, also a vanillic oriental, but smoother. Voices are it has been damaged by IFRA, though). And then there's Derby, which initially didn't really resonate despite the quality, and yet, over time, I seem to go back to it again and again, such is the draw of the classic style and the quality.
Choosing just one Guerlain among so many exceptionally good ones is impossible. I thought I had smelt enough Guerlain's over the yrs - until the Desert series came out last yr. I remember your thread (or someone else's) asking which fragrance has the best dry downs & to me Songe d'un Bois d'Ete will easily be among my top 5 favorite dry downs (i.e if I make such a list)...
But, if you haven't yet realized how expensive a hobby this is, jump into Guerlain's & it will make you realize that pretty quickly - ask my wallet...
Lately, it's Chamade, vintage EdC in the disc bottle. A sharp opening, aided and abetted by galbanum (says my nose), followed by beautiful flowers, still sharp, and a drydown that, well, they really don't make like they used to, melting, with fabulous sandalwood. I can't get enough of this. It belongs to the same "bite me" school of sharp florals as Amarige or Mollie Parnis. I love that progression from sharp to mellow.
What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!
I never thought of Guerlain as a house that I'm into, but thinking about it, I do seem to have a few:
Shalimar (various vintages and concentrations)
Mitsouko (dreaded EDT from four years ago, newest EDP)
AA Flora Nymphea
Nahema (most recent).
Derby is a recent discovery, too. It may eventually join my collection! And the most recent Mitsouko parfum is really gorgeous. I'm trying not to think about it.
Shalimar is the one I'd never be without, as it's part of my earliest memories, and I have a bottle of the Eau de Cologne from 1960-something that was my grandmother's. And a couple of other more recent EDTs and EDPs.
Vol de Nuit is very beautiful - let us know how you get on with that one.
Probably not a popular answer, but oh lawdy, Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune is just wonderful. The juiciest, most delectable grapefruit. I'm not the most educated here, though. I've smelled a portion of Guerlain's collection but have given startling few of them a proper wearing. Still, Pamplelune has earned its permanent residency in my wardrobe.
For me, a toss up between Derby & Chamade Homme
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Danieq that is almost an impossible question for me. I love Jujy54 description of “bite me” old school florals for Chamade, just perfect.
May I have two? Sentimental favourite is Mitsouko I’ve worn this since I was a teen. My favourite is parfum/extrait 1980’s. However, for its sheer beauty, L’Heure Bleue. The extrait from the 1960’s is about the most beautiful thing I have ever smelt. I also have some perfume bath oil from the 1960’s and that’s divine too.
We live only to discover beauty. All else is a form of waiting. ～Kahlil Gibran
oy, what a hard question to answer! There are soo many great Guerlains. If I had to pick one? Jicky, pure parfum baby all the way. Now Shalimar EdT and Mitsouko EdT(?) are also very good. And how could I forget the excellent Double Vanille? And coming up behind them, maybe Habit Rouge, but I still think Jicky would have to be IT if I could only pick one.
Tom Ford Splits!!!! - Tobacco Vanille, Tuscan Leather, Oud Wood, Noir de Noir,
Plum Japonais, Italian Cypress, Neroli Portofino, Costa Azzura
HARD TO FIND - Lavender Palm, Arabian Wood, Champacca Absolute and AMBER ABSOLUTE, etc...
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This so so hard!
I love Habit Rouge (parfum and EDP),Jicky, Shalimar, Samsara, L'Heure Bleue, Apres L'Ondee, Mouchoir, Derby, Sous Le Vent and Vol de Nuit.
If I was forced to choose, maybe Vol de Nuit.
All of them!
"No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.
I haven't sniffed nearly enough from this brand to determine favorites. I do really like what I have smelled so far though.
Mitsouko for many decades, another one is:
LIU vintage version
Last edited by Puma; 10th January 2014 at 09:08 AM.
There are many that l haven't tried, but some of them are staples in my wardrobe.
Samsara is far & away my favourite; both the original & modern formulations. This is the closest thing l have to a signature scent. The jasmine-sandalwood combo just smells like "me", only better. l wear it to ground myself when l've had a stressful day, or if l'm feeling slightly under the weather.
l also love Shalimar, (preferably the 90s version, not the modern) L'Instant & L'Heure Bleue. l originally fell in love with a vintage sample of L'HB, but l own the modern EDP, which is still one of the most beautiful scents in my wardrobe.
"What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.
I have sniffed and owned many of them. They are to be treated with respect, fascination and true love. I do not have a favorite, though, and every time I am asked this question I do not know what to say. I enjoy wearing older and rarer Guerlains (Rue de la Paix, Fleur de Feu, Parure, etc), I have also several L'Art et la Materies, The best of them will last all day long, pulsing and transforming, enveloping one in waves of warmth and coziness.
Definitely Shalimar, vintage EdC and parfum are my favorite, although my bottle of Parfum de Toilette is getting a lot of love recently.
However, I love (and own) many many more
I am a big fan of Maison Guerlain. It all began in the 70's for me,
when my sister bought me a blue and white canister of Jicky - it was
so sophisticated and wonderful. I then purchased Mitsouko, in the same
format and loved that too.
Recently I have worn Shalimar and Samsara (both in the vintage edp form)
and enjoyed Idylle edt, Cuir Beluga, AA Mandaribe Basilique, Pamplelune and
Flora Nerolia. I didn't like Jardins de Bagatelle or Chamade, however.
A woman without perfume is like a flower without a scent.
It's too hard to pick a favorite, but that's probably the point of the thread, to get our top 3 or so. My top 3 are so different; Mitsouko, Vol du Nuit & L'Heure Bleu. I just can't choose. I am devastated to hear that VdN is changed and ruined. Probably the others are now, too. This makes me feel like hoarding now. I'm going to be afraid to use these at all! No no no! I mustn't be like that. I'll enjoy these since I have them but I'm so sorry that others will never know their beauty. It's such a terrible shame. I don't believe these regulations are for safety or conservation, either. I think they are to cheapen the products. Sickening! Especially when we are practically SHOVELING money their way as it is. Come on, what more can we do? I mean, has heliotrope ever hurt anyone? I've sprayed gobs of Après L'Ondée on myself and I have not suffered in the least.
Last edited by kumquat; 10th January 2014 at 04:15 PM.
It's impossible to choose, really.
It seems that very time I wear one of the Guerlain classics I change my mind about which one's my favourite. Call me promiscuous if you must If pushed, I would have to say Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue (I'm quite a recent convert to this one) and JickyVoldeNuitlimar.
That said, most of the recent release don't do much for me, including the Art et Matière line.
By the way, I would not say that Vol de Nuit is ruined at all. Leaving aside the EdT, which is more like a fleeting cologne, the extrait still smells fabulous. Bottles from the last few years seem to have featured a very prominent and utterly captivating jonquil note, whereas the extrait I bought last week - which dates from the end of last year - is darker, less floral, and surprisingly animalic. The modern loses out to vintage (which I also wear) in terms of longevity and sheer heft, but it wins out in freshness and wearability, I feel. I urge any doubters to try it. Mitsouko, too, has been restored almost to its old self and is full of mossy goodness.
Love AA Pampelune and in general the AAs work better for me - Gentiana was lovely, sadly discontinued. The guerlinade doesn't work all that well on me unfortunately. If I bought anything else, it'd probably be Shalimar Parfum Initial.
Saminlondon- good to hear. I have VDN extrait from a few years ago, Paris boutique. But it pains me to think it is constantly under threat. The gorgeous amber juice is fairly good enough to drink. I don't believe I've had the EDP, if there is one.
This is hard....I admire most but these are the ones I really wear:
and my #1 is a favorite comfort scent -Cologne du 68
Sync'in and Think'in in 2015!
Sous le Vent, chosen for me by the Guerlain National Fragrance Director Marie Line Patry. I also wear and love Jicky, Shalimar and Samsara. I am intrigued by Mitsuko as well but don't own it yet. My favorite house, really...
Sous Les Vent is so pretty, and different. Good for you! Sometime , have some 'May Wine' it's a white German wine with a faintly cinnamon edge. I think you'll see the similarity. It's a charming wine in the spring.
Encens Mythique D'Orient.
Its so special and enveloping. My greatest compliment-getter.
I don't know what my favorite Guerlain is, yet, but I plan to enjoy finding out. So far I have vintage Mitsouko EdC, Shalimar and Nahema parfums, but the only one I wear is Mitsouko. Today I smelled L'Heure Bleue EdP (for the 2nd time, I think) and was a bit thunderstruck. Must return to see whether or not it's love. Slowly collecting samples of others, but have yet to focus on them. For some reason I keep not smelling the Jicky sample I have right here. Does my nose fear it will find Jicky icky? It's a mystery.
I'm a Guerlain modernist - I love they way that they've transformed the old house ethic into new things that please my mainstream tastes, but with Guerlain's classic feel.
Vetiver Pour Elle - a bit like Vetiver reformatted in an older feminine - this won me over, where the men's Vetiver didn't
Shanghai - complex but subtle, modern yet old-fashioned - this one just appeals to me personally
Guerlain Homme EDP Intense - like a strong, green, herbal version of L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extrême - also a great fragrance
Shalimar Parfum Initial - pink Shalimar that is strangely guy-friendly - this fragrance is so wrong, it's right - and I'm a big fan
Boisé Torride - best boozy, sweet-tooth gourmand ever made - like some sinful dessert that you wear in a bar
L'Heure de Nuit - almost antithetical to L'Heure Bleue in its modernity, yet it feels like it understands the original fully. It's not me, but it's great.
Still, I respect the older stuff. Vol de Nuit, Shalimar, Coriolan, EDC Imperiale are all things I admire or own.
Vintage Shalimar (1980 back) i
Shalimar is my absolute favorite and I must own multiple bottles of various years both the EDT, EDP, Extrait, powder, bath gel, and cream.
Also have Shalimar Ode a la Vanille, Eau de Shalimar, Samsara, Mitsouko, Jicky, and Champs-Elysees.
My next Guerlain purchase will be Mayotte.
Items in my wardrobe not in the fragrance directory:
Exhilarators (Elizabeth Arden Bath and Body Spa from 1980's - no relation to Sun Flowers )
Chanel No. 5 Voile
I'd settle with Jicky Extrait (current is just perfect), L'Heure Bleue (vintage EdP, PdT and Extrait) and Sous le Vent. It would be tough to leave behind Vol de Nuit, Vega and Shalimar though.
Favourite will always be vintage L'Heure Bleue extrait, though Vol de Nuit extrait runs it close and the current version is wonderful (unlike L'Heure Bleue). Also own and love Shalimar, Mitsouko, Heritage, Eau de Guerlain, and L'Instant.
Last edited by JON RODGERS; 12th January 2014 at 07:52 PM.
Vintage L'Heure Bleue extrait for me, too. Honestly the most beautiful perfume I have ever smelt.
And Jicky extrait. I agree with Larimar that the current version is quite fine (though I do wish the mega civetty PdT were still available!).
Reviews :: http://www.lemouchoirparfume.blogspot.co.uk :: Reviews
Songe d’un Bois d’Ete
Habit Rouge edt
Sous le Vent
Eau de Guerlain
Mouchoir de Monsieur
Vol de Nuit edt
Eau du Coq
Last edited by pluran; 12th January 2014 at 08:29 PM.
Impossible to pick just one. I feel like a little boy in a candy shop! There are simply too many good stuff! But the all time favorite classic Guerlain for me will have to be Mitsouko (vintage extrait/ EDT/EDC and current EDP).
Probably much easier to pick your least favourite Guerlain.
My want list grows and grows. So many beautiful scents to be found in this house. And to think that at the start of my journey I snubbed them!
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vintage (80´s) Habit Rouge EDT
Vintage only, Shalimar from the 60's and 70's, Nahema vintage from the 70's and 80's, L'Heure Bleue any, but best is vintage. Always and ever, L'Heure Bleue is tops. Have not sniffed the moderns, I guess I prefer any vintage to the stuff they spit out now.
Vintage Mitsouko EDT and modern EDP, love them and at this point is my favourite Guerlain. I also love Tonka Imperiale among many others.
I have yet to try many from Guerlain and have to try older formulations of scents before they disappear forever to get a good idea of how they originally were and get a true sense of their actual selves. Vintage Guerlains is a hobby itself as one put it before and is quite intimidating (and costly) but hopefully luck will be on my side once I delve more into it and cannot wait to try many modern, readily available Guerlains too.
All of the following are ranked quite highly and equally among my favorites: Vetiver, Habit Rouge, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Guerlain Homme EDP and Eau Boisee, Heritage, LIDGE.
Last edited by Ken_Russell; 16th January 2014 at 06:15 PM.
I think I'm in the minority here, but I prefer Guerlain's more modern offerings to their older classics, except for L'Heure Bleue, which I really do love in all its graceful, serene and slightly dusty glory, but it just isn't quite *my* style ...though it was very much my grandmother's style and she wore it beautifully, but I believe that's the main reason I love it. My personal favorite is Chamade, which I've actually owned and loved since I was six years old, although I didn't really wear it very much back then, lol. My other Guerlain loves are Iris Ganache, my very favorite gourmand regardless of house and I just cannot believe I'm the first basenoter to mention it here, L'Instant which is my very favorite magnolia-dominant perfume, and Shalmiar Parfum Initial which I simply adore and it happens to be the only version of Shalimar I can stand. I also have a soft spot for Insolence, even the much maligned edt with all its sweet and sparkly violets and berries - so charming and vivacious! Nahema, Samsara and Parure are also up there, but they tend to be a bit temperamental, so I have to be in the right mood for them ...but when they're good they're wonderful.
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Mitsouko - yes
Coriolan - a cloak and dagger fragrance
Derby (current) - quiet luxury
Shalimar edc - anytime
Habit Rouge edc - a quick affair, yet satisfying
Samsara. So far. The classic guerlains I've sampled are beautiful, high art, but I feel like I'm wearing someone else's perfume.
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I have always liked Guerlains. My most favourite is L'Heure bleue EdP, followed by Shalimar EdP Charms Edition from 2010 (the new versions I smell in the shops don't do it). I also have Misouko EdP, the new version which I still have to get aquainted with, also L'Instant which is very likeable. Additionally I have Champs Elysées, which is nice and Acqua Allegoria Pivoine Magnifica, which I don't care that much for anymore (I got both as "buy 2 Guerlains for 50 Euro", but it was a limited selection).
Agree with Danieq. Mr. Reasonable certainly has an impressive array of the good stuff there! It reminds me of when I acquired L'Heure Bleu I got some from Ebay. I wasn't even sure I liked it but I figured "why not?" Now I'm so glad I did. I have some of each strength. Just enough to last until I croak. It's certainly an acquired taste. And it's definitely a moody scent, unlike any other- except maybe Après L'Ondée or Iris Silver Mist.
I have neglected this house. I have remedied the situation by ordering six samples to try. Should be here by Saturday. I will let you know then.
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Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia (jasmine and orange blossom)
Aqua Allegoria Lilia Bella (lily of the valley, with lilac) is a distant second. Both are discontinued, but check eBay for occasional offerings.
Most of the Guerlains don't work for me, sadly. I like the smell of Cuir Beluga but tire of it too fast to actually wear it.
Edit: Can anyone point me to how to make a wider column of text?
Last edited by 30 Roses; 16th January 2014 at 06:16 PM.
I'm way behind the Basenotes curve when it comes to Guerlain. I own vintage VdN extrait and love, love, love it. And I've tried Mitsouko, but only in the EDT. It wasn't for me at the time, but I've since learned that the current EDP is very good so I'll take another run at it one of these days. I'd like to try L' Heure Bleue and it is on my short list. Oh yes, I have tried the Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca and really like it. Am looking forward to warmer weather so I can wear it again.
I apologise for the photos.
Once upon a time I used photo bucket because that was the only option for posting on basenotes - you could post good sized pix in those days. I quit the account when basenotes switched to huddler because you didn't need it to post and I was a bit fed up with my pictures popping up on peoples websites and whathaveyou. Now basenotes seems to have some capacity for uploading direct from my computer but anything above a certain (rather small) sized jpg isn't accepted. I think if you click on the 'thumbnail' and then the little 'Previous / Next' thing at the bottom they open up a bit bigger . . .
Basically I give up.
mr. reasonable - what is the scent in the 'dial bottle' on the top right? Vol de Nuit Eau de Cologne?