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  1. #1
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    I've been reading for months now and this term Guerlainade comes up with stimulating regularity. At this point, I've become a grand fan of Guerlain, but not to the point that I feel certain I understand what is meant by this term in particular. So, please share your thoughts as to what this is. Is it a particular accord of notes? If so, what do you believe them to be? If not, then what IS IT for goodness sake?

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    I've understood it to mean pretty much what The Perffume Shrine states very nicely, "La Guerlinade was the code-name for an olfactory harmonious blend that typified Guerlain perfumes in their classical compositions and made them the stuff of legend: Bergamot, jasmine, rose ~especially the Bulgarian version rather than the Turkish one~, orange blossom, iris, (possibly vetiver), tonka bean, and vanilla are said to be the main ingredients comprising it."

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  3. #3

    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.hk...uerlinade.html

    There's plenty of in depth info out there if you look for it.

  4. #4
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.hk...uerlinade.html

    There's plenty of in depth info out there if you look for it.
    Always great to be reminded of that amazing site.

    Beyond the Guerlinade Jean-Paul Guerlain supposedly considered jasmine, tuberose, rose, sandalwood and vetiver to be 'noble essences'.
    www.news24.com/xArchive/Archive/The-art-of-smell-20010327
    Last edited by pluran; 16th January 2014 at 05:49 AM.

  5. #5
    Basenotes Junkie Trilby Lark's Avatar
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    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    Guerlainade has a certain je ne sais quoi...

  6. #6

    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    Out of curiosity, to those who've been wearing Guerlain for a couple of decades, do you feel the Guerlinade has been altered?
    Yes I realize IFRA has crippled it, but other than a reduction in oak moss, what about the vanilla or benzoin?

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  7. #7

    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    Heliotrope is the thing that always popped out for me.

    Okay Mitsouko does not have it, but the other old classics do.
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  8. #8

    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    Monsieur Guerlain's description of the Guerlinade as the supporting DNA of their perfumes is a good one. It's most evident in the classics; in fact I'm not convinced that it's still included in the newer scents as a matter of course - either that, or it's reworked in each case according to the formula.

    Apart from providing a kind of family resemblance, to me the Guerlinade is most easily identified in the fragrances' drydown - to the extent that some people find it makes them 'all smell the same' after a certain length of time. No complaints from me! and someone who wears Guerlain scents habitually will be able to tell the difference. I never get much of the Guerlinade from Mitsouko, strangely - but Shalimar, Habit Rouge, Vol de Nuit etc will give you a good idea of its dusky (and dusty) charm.

    (Sorry, hedonist - I'm a fairly recent convert but making up for lost time! )

  9. #9

    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    It's surprising how it surfaces after several hours as an echo in some that you wouldn't expect it to (I swear I picked up a trace in the latter hours of one of the Guerlain Hommes) but for a more obvious experience you can follow the whole sweep from Apres l'Ondee (just the cooler aspects in EDT altho the Extrait is nuttier and warmer) thru Iris Ganache, Quand Vient la Pluie, 180 Ans (drier), Mon Precieux Nectar (sweeter initially then nuttier than some) etc. etc.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    I'd have to say that civet plays a role...

  11. #11

    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    Not only oakmoss, but also coumarin and heliotropin have been restricted. These materials contribute to the hazy soft focus of some Guerlains. But perhaps it's not just a matter of IFRA.

    cacio

  12. #12

    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    Quote Originally Posted by OdilonRedon View Post
    I'd have to say that civet plays a role...
    In the Guerlinade itself? Not as far as I'm aware.

  13. #13
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.hk...uerlinade.html

    There's plenty of in depth info out there if you look for it.
    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Always great to be reminded of that amazing site.

    Beyond the Guerlinade Jean-Paul Guerlain supposedly considered jasmine, tuberose, rose, sandalwood and vetiver to be 'noble essences'.
    www.news24.com/xArchive/Archive/The-art-of-smell-20010327

    Thank you, thank you, thank you for these wonderful articles! I found a bit of myself in Jean-Paul's explanation of why he lives in the country. I've got overactive olfactories myself which frequently drive me quite batty. I am glad it allows me to enjoy perfumes, but being able to detect another person's BO before they can is not such a blessing!

  14. #14

    Default Re: Please Pontificate on Guerlainade

    What I've always loved and found extraordinary about Guerlain is that warm, skin-like quality you get from most of their perfumes (with the exception of Idylle). It's just a little animalic, just a little earthy, just a little furry. Mitsouko definitely has it, even La Petite Robe Noire has a little of it, if you can get past the cherry. I vaguely recall reading somewhere that Sylvaine Delacourt says the Guerlinade has become more of a "muscinade" now (probably due to ingredient restrictions I guess).

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