Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 28 of 28
  1. #1
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Southeastern Arizona
    Posts
    2,178

    Default Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Hello fellow sniffers. I've tested a variety of FM's and while I often like the construction, each of them seems to have something I can't tolerate. It seems to be the same thing which registers as a high, sweet scent to my nose. I know a while back, Hedonist suggested that I was responding to the ISO E Super in Une Rose and now I'm wondering if that is prevalent throughout the line?

    I've tried the following

    Une Rose
    Musc Ravageur
    Dries Van Noten
    Iris Poudre
    Portrait of a Lady
    Lipstick Rose

    Or, is there something else that ties each of these together?

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    McLean, NYC, & Búzios
    Posts
    79,750

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    I don't think I would even be able to recognize ISO E Super within a scent as my nose isn't that sensitive. Don't know if it's a common ingredient in all of them. Perhaps it is something else that is more prevalent that you find hard to tolerate.Thankfully I personally haven't had any adverse reaction to any Malle I've tried or owned.

    (3496)
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals don't warrant or deserve other individuals' acknowledgement or respect.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    I think many Malles do have heavy woody ambers, though I'm not sure it's always Iso-E. Une rose as you say has a lot of it, and, while I have not tried extensively, I assume that Musc Ravageur and Dries do as well. PoaL I think is more about ambroxan, another woody amber. In general, woody ambers can feel high register and sharp, though not necessarily sweet (although of course they could be intensifying whatever sweetness is in the scent itself).

    cacio

  4. #4
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Southeastern Arizona
    Posts
    2,178

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Hmmm, maybe it is the amber. I like amber a lot, but perhaps some aspect of the way it's used in these is unkind to my nose. I have learned that my hubby can't tolerate amber as it makes his throat hurt. Perhaps I have a bit of the same.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Pulling out ISO-E Super from my trusty perfumery notes kit. Yes, it's a note I recognize from smelling it in my two Malles-- Une Rose and En Passant. Will check my Malle samples later tonight and report.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    I doubt what you're smelling is Iso E Super. It could be one of so many synthetics. I have a synthetic boogeyman that shows up in a lot of men's scents like Terre d'Hermes, Michael Kors, Azzaro Visit, Encre Noir and others. I have no idea what it is, but it's in all four of them and oooooof, I can't stand it.

    You should pick up a sample of Molecule 01 sometime and give it a try. You'll know in an instant if the issue is Iso E Super since that's all Molecule 01 is.

    Good luck figuring it out.
    "Follow your nose. It always knows." -- Toucan Sam

  7. #7

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    I don't get ies in any of those!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    To me, the Iso E was instantly recognizable as a component of both Malles I own. Danieq, I'd be happy to send you a bit of mine if you like so you can decide for yourself. The kit's booklet says it imparts a "mild smooth woody amber, unique velvety feel" and "appears in a good majority of modern perfume formulations."

    p.s. Found link showing it as an ingredient in Une Rose. Parfumo.net doesn't list it for the others but I sure think I smell it in En Passant, but then Malle uses different designers. Edouard Fléchier, who designed Une Rose, also designed Lys Mediterranee. Don't have a sample of it, just Portrait of a Lady.

    http://www.parfumo.net/Perfumes/Edit...Malle/Une_Rose
    Last edited by ScentFan; 28th January 2014 at 04:33 AM. Reason: add link

  9. #9

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Honestly, I can't imagine iso e being that recognizable in the Malles. I'm sure it's there among others in hefty amounts, but unless you're fixing pure wood scents, it would be very clumsy to make it that obvious. Those fragrances are by incredibly famous noses, so the chances of them letting something like that slide by are somewhat slim. My guess is that you're picking up on dry bases that are using a number of chemicals from iso e to cedramber tokephalis to bois ambrene forte. They all build to the same effect and have similar profiles. There maybe a "house base" involved, but it'd be very odd given the perfumers involved.

    With that said, I don't have any Malles on-hand to verify for myself.

  10. #10
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Southeastern Arizona
    Posts
    2,178

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    That sounds great ScentFan, I would appreciate that very much. Will pm you my address in the morning. Thanks for testing as well.

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

    My Sales Thread - A Collection Purge

  11. #11

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Honestly, I can't imagine iso e being that recognizable in the Malles. I'm sure it's there among others in hefty amounts, but unless you're fixing pure wood scents, it would be very clumsy to make it that obvious. Those fragrances are by incredibly famous noses, so the chances of them letting something like that slide by are somewhat slim. My guess is that you're picking up on dry bases that are using a number of chemicals from iso e to cedramber tokephalis to bois ambrene forte. They all build to the same effect and have similar profiles. There maybe a "house base" involved, but it'd be very odd given the perfumers involved.

    With that said, I don't have any Malles on-hand to verify for myself.

    Maybe it's me and my nose. All my life I've been hypersensitive to smells. Only now am I finding a good use for that.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Quote Originally Posted by ScentFan View Post
    Maybe it's me and my nose. All my life I've been hypersensitive to smells. Only now am I finding a good use for that.
    It absolutely could be the case! Check your Avignon again -- that's like 55% Iso E or something crazy.

    Iso E is a weird material in that some can't really smell it and you get anosmic to it fast (large molecule), but it's a godsend for perfumery and has probably become the most widely used fixative since its creation.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Some people are more sensitive that others. And it's true that it is more of a background thing. Still, it is noticeable in many modern frags - as you point out, stuff like Encre noire, TdH, Avignon are Iso-E bombs.

    cacio

  14. #14

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    It absolutely could be the case! Check your Avignon again -- that's like 55% Iso E or something crazy.

    Iso E is a weird material in that some can't really smell it and you get anosmic to it fast (large molecule), but it's a godsend for perfumery and has probably become the most widely used fixative since its creation.
    Yes, I noticed I did get anosmic to it and had to sniff coffee beans to detect it again. Apparently it doesn't bother me because I adore both Avignon and Une Rose. Will re-sniff Avignon, tho, to see if I detect the Iso E.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Not really, no.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    I think I read at basenotes, jean claude ellena - mastered material is ISO E super :P

  17. #17

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Quote Originally Posted by danieq View Post
    Hello fellow sniffers. I've tested a variety of FM's and while I often like the construction, each of them seems to have something I can't tolerate. It seems to be the same thing which registers as a high, sweet scent to my nose. I know a while back, Hedonist suggested that I was responding to the ISO E Super in Une Rose and now I'm wondering if that is prevalent throughout the line?

    I've tried the following

    Une Rose
    Musc Ravageur
    Dries Van Noten
    Iris Poudre
    Portrait of a Lady
    Lipstick Rose

    Or, is there something else that ties each of these together?
    Danieq, you are not alone - I don't get along with many of the FM scents and for this reason I don't own any FB from the range. I have sampled many of them and find something doesn't smell good on my skin. Even something as smooth and gentle as Lys Med didn't give me any good feelings when sprayed on my skin.

    I could be that ISO E is in some of them, but I can't say for sure. I'm anosmic to 'Molecule 01' as a fragrance, but stuff like Montale's Red Vetyver is just plain nauseating to me, so it could well be that. Granted, I have been a big fan of TdH pre-reformulation, but it may be blended with other ingredients which don't have such an impact on me. The new formulation is something I don't get on well with, but others around me love it.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Like the majority of us here, I'm not a perfumer.
    When I say ISO E SUPER, it could be something with another moniker , but regardless of what it goes by , it's very prominent in a few FM at the very end (at least 6 hours after spraying).

    Perhaps it really is used in high doses but is countered with other ingredients , rendering that magnificent touch that in all FM perfumes.
    But then maybe the counter-ingredient wears off but the ISO E SUPER marches on.

    Who knows...

    for swap/sale:





  19. #19
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Southeastern Arizona
    Posts
    2,178

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Well, perhaps it is just a base that FM's tend to use. The interesting thing I've found is that I love them on paper, but as soon as they are on my skin I can't wear it. It gets very overwhelming and cloying....which makes me sad.

    In particular, Dries Van Noten, when I first smelled it I thought I'd died and gone to heaven. Then I put it on my skin and it went downward from there.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Quote Originally Posted by danieq View Post
    Well, perhaps it is just a base that FM's tend to use. The interesting thing I've found is that I love them on paper, but as soon as they are on my skin I can't wear it. It gets very overwhelming and cloying....which makes me sad.

    In particular, Dries Van Noten, when I first smelled it I thought I'd died and gone to heaven. Then I put it on my skin and it went downward from there.
    Out of curiosity, spray some into a card / tissue, then sniff around the 8-hour mark. Then again the next day. ISO E has insane longevity on materials, and if it's there in large amounts, it'll be one of the only things remaining.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Quote Originally Posted by danieq View Post
    Well, perhaps it is just a base that FM's tend to use. The interesting thing I've found is that I love them on paper, but as soon as they are on my skin I can't wear it. It gets very overwhelming and cloying....which makes me sad.

    In particular, Dries Van Noten, when I first smelled it I thought I'd died and gone to heaven. Then I put it on my skin and it went downward from there.

    I do find both Une Rose and En Passant challenging to wear, but I love their scents so much, I brave them.

  22. #22
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Southeastern Arizona
    Posts
    2,178

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Out of curiosity, spray some into a card / tissue, then sniff around the 8-hour mark. Then again the next day. ISO E has insane longevity on materials, and if it's there in large amounts, it'll be one of the only things remaining.
    I will try this Deadidol, good suggestions.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Out of curiosity, spray some into a card / tissue, then sniff around the 8-hour mark. Then again the next day. ISO E has insane longevity on materials, and if it's there in large amounts, it'll be one of the only things remaining.
    Interesting as this may be, I have only ever sprayed their scents on my skin. You've got me thinking DI... I need to get to a FM outlet ASAP!!!

  24. #24

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    I have a card that was sprayed with Portrait of a Lady about two months ago, and it's still going strong. Whatever is in there has a near-nuclear half-life - the main reason I find it so unrelentless and couldn't get through a full day's wearing.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    I couldn't get anything out of French Lover after a few minutes on skin. I'm wondering if this will have that same affect as the PoaL on a card...

  26. #26

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Good for you that you don't get anything out of French Lover.I get a grating woody amber. The one in PoaL is different (and more pleasant), so you will likely smell it.

    cacio

  27. #27
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    26,736

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    If I were you I would email Frederic Malle and ask him directly. He seems like he would give you a straight answer.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  28. #28
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Southeastern Arizona
    Posts
    2,178

    Default Re: Frederic Malle -- ISO E Super heavy?

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    If I were you I would email Frederic Malle and ask him directly. He seems like he would give you a straight answer.
    Hmm, there's an idea I hadn't thought of.

Similar Threads

  1. NEW from Frédéric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle"
    By hawk in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 71
    Last Post: 7th May 2013, 10:19 PM
  2. New Frédéric Malle...
    By gandhajala in forum General Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 7th May 2012, 09:38 AM
  3. Frederic Malle
    By komak123 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 5th June 2011, 08:57 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •