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  1. #1

    Default Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    I've came upon a blog post about creating a jasmine scented perfume :

    http://www.magnetic-scent.com/untitl...n-the-perfume/

    His point was that all those seemingly unscented components in the GC
    of jasmine play an important role in the smell of jasmine :

    My reasoning was jasmine absolute consists for about 50% of odorless materials so I concentrated on the other 50% that I considered were crucial for the scent. Wrong! The secret to making a good jasmine reconstruction lies in finding the right solvents to dilute and mask the materials that emit the scent.
    I'm not what he meant by that, and I've sent him an email asking that,
    but in the meanwhile (assuming it will be answered), does any one have
    any idea what he meant? Was he speaking of benzyl salicylate and its
    kin?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    Will be interesting to see if he responds. From his wording it seems as though he's talking about the solvents used in the perfume, balancing them in the correct ratios in order to improve longevity of different constituents. Interesting idea if this is true that a different solvent formulation can effect the evaporation of the individual notes in different ways. Seems like Paul has used a few different solvent blends from Remet, I wonder what he would have to say.
    Justin E. Beasley

  3. #3
    Basenotes Member nicok's Avatar
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    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    I have smelled that guys jasmine and I have to say it is very realistic. What he says in his blog is that the solvents have a very important impact in the performance of the scent. Very interesting. I find it very advanced though. I don't use odorless materials when composing a scent, but I definitely believe they have an impact on the overall performance.

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    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    Is he talking exclusively about the role of solvents or does he also mean "odorless" chemicals found in true Jasmine by GC/MS?
    Justin E. Beasley

  5. #5

    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    Still trying to figure that out..
    However, you'll be glad to hear I figure out what benzyl salicylate does to a blend..
    Strange, though, that all those salicylates seem to have a thing in common in their scent..

  6. #6

    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    Quote Originally Posted by Nizan View Post
    Still trying to figure that out..
    However, you'll be glad to hear I figure out what benzyl salicylate does to a blend..
    Strange, though, that all those salicylates seem to have a thing in common in their scent..
    Glad you figured out what Benzyl Salicylate can do to a fragrance. Why do you think it strange that all Salicylates have something in common? They have the Salicylate group in common. Similarly all Acetates have something in common, etc.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    I thought it a bit strange since I'm not really sure how olfactory sensing works.. It's not so trivial
    that molecules that have the same group should smell similar - unless you've grown accustomed
    to it..
    I don't get why it's written that it's reminiscent of jasmines, though.. I never got that salicylate theme
    from smelling jasmines.. Though maybe I should try again.

    Does benzyl benzoate/alcohol has a similar effect on a blend - changing it in a subtle way?

  8. #8

    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    I've never heard that Benzyl Salicylate was reminiscent of Jasmin; Nizan; where did you hear that?

    Benzyl Benzoate, and Benzyl Alcohol have pretty low odours. I think Benzyl Alcohol smells stronger. I use them mainly as solvents, although Benzyl Alcohol will contribute slightly to the overall odour. Benzyl Benzoate, is a Back note, fixative type material; whilst the Alcohol is much more volatile.

  9. #9
    Basenotes Member nicok's Avatar
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    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    Quote Originally Posted by JEBeasley View Post
    Is he talking exclusively about the role of solvents or does he also mean "odorless" chemicals found in true Jasmine by GC/MS?
    I believe he is talking in general about the odorless chemicals found in GCMS of Jasmine. Although I don't believe that any perfumer has access or using such chemicals. I was asking the other day a friend of mine that is a chemist about several compounds I couldn't understand in the tuberose abs GCMS. Tens of them are odorless molecules and they are not produced commercially. So I believe that if somebody wants to have the performance of the real thing, then he has to use a lot of the natural and add the molecules that are destroyed in the distillation to achieve the realistic result.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    nicok - you mean all those carbohydrates and strange odorless acids? Not sure that's what he meant.. I've asked him again, and sent a link to this thread. Hopefully he'll be willing to share his insights... I think I'll try experimenting with those odorless chems from PA to see what effects they might have. For a flower accord, benzyl benzoate sounds perfect from David's descriptions, as I don't really have any base notes that will work as fixatives for the specific scent I'm after (though some ingredients are considered base notes, I don't think they add too much to the overall longevity of the more volatile notes. Will have to check)...

    David - From the PA site :

    Benzyl Salicylate
    base note - V.P .2
    Very faint sweet floral/jasmine note

    Weird.

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    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    Quote Originally Posted by Nizan View Post
    nicok - you mean all those carbohydrates and strange odorless acids? Not sure that's what he meant.. I've asked him again, and sent a link to this thread. Hopefully he'll be willing to share his insights... I think I'll try experimenting with those odorless chems from PA to see what effects they might have. For a flower accord, benzyl benzoate sounds perfect from David's descriptions, as I don't really have any base notes that will work as fixatives for the specific scent I'm after (though some ingredients are considered base notes, I don't think they add too much to the overall longevity of the more volatile notes. Will have to check)...

    David - From the PA site :

    Benzyl Salicylate
    base note - V.P .2
    Very faint sweet floral/jasmine note

    Weird.
    I ruined my orris accord the other day adding Benzyl Salicylate... it's a deceptively powerful note that can take over quickly especially when going for a light, woody, transparent floral aroma. The Benzyl Salicylate muddied it, sweetened it and crushed it. I thought that a few drops @ 10% would help to floralize it and make it a bit more complex. Needless to say I don't think it was the right material to add to my orris accord in the amounts I used. In fact, I think I might have to dilute it further because it seems to overwhelm easily. Who knows, it could settle down after a month but It's way off the mark so far so I don't see it getting much better with time. Oh well, back to the drawing board.
    Justin E. Beasley

  12. #12

    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    Always had that experience with it.. and with hedione as well.. Right now I've diluted
    the hedione to 0.1% to stand it..

  13. #13

    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    Ok, Spyros answered
    He did mean all those seemingly scentless chemicals in the GC like benzyl alcohol, benzoate and phytol. Correspondingly I just ordered some cetyl alcohol to check it..

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    Quote Originally Posted by Nizan View Post
    Ok, Spyros answered
    He did mean all those seemingly scentless chemicals in the GC like benzyl alcohol, benzoate and phytol. Correspondingly I just ordered some cetyl alcohol to check it..
    Ok, thanks for sharing the info. I never would have thought that it would be the case that "scentless" materials would make a huge difference but perhaps they play other roles such as fixatives or slowing down the evaporation rates of other chemicals and such, very interesting.
    Justin E. Beasley

  15. #15

    Default Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    Could be that the effect isn't so huge.. could be subtle. No idea, and don't have any of those
    chems around to check. This hobby is expensive!

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