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  1. #31
    Dependent james1051's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    The author goes on at some length without even acknowledging the core problem for the industry: that many reformulations are widely regarded as crappy!

  2. #32
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Quote Originally Posted by james1051 View Post
    The author goes on at some length without even acknowledging the core problem for the industry: that many reformulations are widely regarded as crappy!
    Yes, indeed. The elephant in the room is completely ignored here. These perfume companies get us hooked on beautiful juice and then pull the old 'bait and switch'. It's something they've continued to get away with for decades and will no doubt continue on unabated forever at this rate. No one seems interested in stepping in to protect consumers.

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Thank you, kumquat, for starting this thread! I think it's valuable to share the names of successfully-preserved vintage perfumes, because I believe some notes and combination of notes are heartier than others. I bought a sealed, perfectly light-colored edc of Je Reviens and an open, light-colored Edeol by Lundborg of mysterious concentration that barely smell like anything and an opened parfum of Moment Supreme that (as we've discussed elsewhere) I suspect has gone off. Nonetheless, I've had some gorgeous windfalls too, such as:

    Jean D'Albret's Casaque (parfum, used or evaporated, golden juice)
    Weil's Zibeline (parfum, used or evaporated, dark juice)
    Lanvin's My Sin (extrait, sealed, dark juice)
    Richard Hudnut's Gemey (extrait, used or evaporated, medium to dark juice)
    Revillon's Carnet de Bal (extrait, used or evaporated, medium to dark juice)
    Ma collection of Jean Patou (edt, some used, some sealed, no difference)

    Other than the Patous, I cannot say that they all have their top notes or are perfect, but they are all absolutely delicious on me, as is. And they were all blind buys, a risk in those cases that paid off. Beauty of bottle plays a role in my purchasing decisions as well. Virtually all my fragrances are in beautiful antique or vintage flacons with historical interest, so, as long as the outlay is not TOO high, even the duds have value to me.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    Norma Kamali Incense! The top notes are toast, but who cares about top notes anyway when you've got this stuff


  5. #35

    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    When I joined BN , i haven't known anything about vintage perfumes and quite didn't care much . After one year I bought my first vintage scent ,just for my curiosity and the price was good. Since then ,I keep buying them, when the price is affordable.Unfortunately I have to disagree with some of the statements made by the author from Fragrantica . I give one example of a scent , probably the oldest from my small collection, which smells really good ,not like vinegar or nail polish remover. Monsieur Rochas EDC .... I think examples can continue.

  6. #36
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    I suspect Miss Elena is hoping to get us all to stop buying vintage so that she can keep them all for herself!!

    I am quite infatuated with vintage fumes and can't imagine my perfumed journey without them at this point.

    Here are a few favorites:

    Bal a Versailles
    Shalimar Vintage Extrait and EdC
    L'Heure Blue Extrait
    Mitsouko EdC
    Weil Zibeline EdC
    Weil Antilope EdC and Extrait

    I've got more on their way to me, including Shocking de Schiaparelli and Lanvin My Sin, Joy, Eau d'Hermes and Cartier Panthere.

    Do I think they are precisely as they were when originally formulated? No, I'm sure they aren't, but they are wonderful nonetheless.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

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  7. #37
    Dependent martinijo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    My own collection includes Monsieur De Givenchy EDT and aftershave, of which the edt topnotes have suffered slightly,
    Chanel A Gentleman's Aftershave, which puzzles me slightly as I can't really connect the scent with the current edt version,
    YSL Pour Homme, which I do not actually like and wonder if it has gone off or if the vintage was supposed to smell this way ? (I like the current version),
    small amounts of Escada Pour Homme (great, would like more)
    Paco rabanne Tenere, which I am also fond of, kind of reminds me of Kouros,
    Ungaro1 which I find perfect for certain occasions, some vintage Heritage, which is the epitome to me of opulence and one of my favourites, Nina Ricci Club, which I wear to freshen me up with it's citrus opening blast, though it can seem a bit "discordant",
    Nina Ricci Phileas, which is unique (I am always reminded of one review which described the scent as reminiscent of a freshly cleaned ballroom floor) though it took a little time to warm to,
    Fendi Uomo which I like very much despite the macho medallion man reviews it seemed to get. (maybe I can get away with it, not being the macho kind of man)
    and last but not least Vintage Givenchy Gentleman, in EDT and aftershave, patchouli never smelled so magnificent.
    Not sure if these all qualify as vintage and there are countless more that I haven't had the pleasure of trying but these are the ones that I feel can comment on.
    * Should add vintage Kouros and Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, ultra classics that I would have no hesitation in wearing...

  8. #38
    Basenotes Junkie Curly11's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Quote Originally Posted by Maque View Post
    In that case, why bother reading on perfume at all? Or even come to a perfume forum to discuss perfume? If perfume is so subjective, can there be any common ground for sharing and discussion then? This seems like a contradictory position.
    What I meant was, who cares if a person loves brand-new versus vintage, or vice versa. I did not mean, who cares about Elena Vosnaki's article. Discussion about, and reading about perfume is an important part of this hobby. Vosnaki is widely respected and makes significant contributions to the body of documentation about perfumes in general. Those of us who pursue vintage perfumes will probably continue to do so because, subjectively speaking, we like old perfume.

  9. #39
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Feel free to talk about your losers. I think we need to keep abreast of the financial curve.
    A couple I recall that were kaput-
    Je Reviens-by Worth (dull, soapy)
    Balenciaga- Le Dix, Quadrille (flat)
    Balmain- Miss Jolie, Madame Balmain- EDTs (weak), Balmain de Balmain (dull)
    Lanvin- My Sin (soapy)

    Last edited by kumquat; 17th February 2014 at 11:22 PM.

  10. #40
    Dependent knit at nite's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    I have been willing to take some risks buying vintages and have had both successes and failures. Ebay and thrift stores have been good to me. I treasure my vintage Diorella over the modern sampled in the shop, that is certain.

    Other glorious vintages I've acquired: Le Dix, Le De, Le Temps D'Aimer, Mitsouko EDC, Audace, Bal a V, Robe D'un soir, Mayotte, Weil de Weil, Zibeline) .
    Fails were: Magie, Madame Carven, Maxim's de Paris, Chapeau Bleu, Stradivari by Prince Matchiabelli, Yendi, Rive Gauche.

    So many iconic scents escaped my nose in previous decades, so I can't really compare earlier versions with current. So, if I like the current one enough to wear, well.....I'll wear it. I've read posts lambasting reformulations of scents (Cabochard & Shalimar are often cited.) Posts like the juice from year xxxx is horrible ruined rubbish. Yet if one has not had the opportunity to experience "the good stuff' and likes the new stuff- must one eschew that pleasure? Will the perfume police haul me off ?Wearing the dreg version of Shalimar is still preferable to me than anything produced by Victoria's Secret.

    This is another fine thread you've started kumquat. Many excellent posts!
    Sync'in and Think'in in 2015!
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  11. #41
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Of course, there are many versions of each scent and many circumstances. For instance, I have an original Rive Gauche from the 1980's in a can. It's great. Yours may have been the wrong formulation, or maybe it was stored incorrectly.

  12. #42

    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    My current list of vintage favorites (most of them, also discontinued, these two categories tending the frequently overlap) is quite modest yet also eclectic, but I'll try my best to remember at least some of them:

    Biagiotti Venezia and Venezia Uomo (both prior to their re-release)
    Mabert Gentleman
    Le Dix by Balenciaga
    Julio Iglesias pour Homme
    Gucci Nobile
    Yves Rocher Eau de Vetyver
    Guy Laroche Horizon
    Joint by Roccobarocco
    Spazio Krizia
    the vintage versions of Yardley Gold and Yardley English Blazer
    Fendi Theorema Uomo and Life Essence
    Avon Wilderness
    a few scents by Faconnable, including Homme and Face a Face
    Jacques Bogart One Man Show
    the earlier batches of Polo Green
    Slava Zaitsev Maroussia and Authentic Maroussia
    Davidoff Relax
    surprisingly, also certain mass market offerings, more or less vintage (at least, not so readily available nowadays), like the vintage formulations of Brut, Old Spice, Puig Agua Brava, Sumatra Rain, also, the German budget male grooming brand Gammon, with the currently less available variations Cool Passion and Roman Nature
    Preferred Stock (yet another comparatively affordable powerhouse)
    Guerlain Habit Rouge
    Last edited by Ken_Russell; 18th February 2014 at 12:29 AM.

  13. #43
    Dependent knit at nite's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Absolutely, it could be several reasons that Rive Gauche didn't appeal. Storage in heat is likely. Or, just not my type of notes? I should dig it out and retest...You never know
    Sync'in and Think'in in 2015!
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  14. #44
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Of course, you might not like the scent at all. That's different. We're mostly interested here in whether the notes hold up. The original Rive Gauche is a sparkling, mossy aldehyde.

  15. #45

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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Aldehydes are often problematic, so a RG stored in the heat may have ruined aldehydes. In any case, I think the current version is relatively close, so that's easy to see if one likes the thing or not. (and then there's also Calandre, arguably closer to the original formula).

    cacio

  16. #46
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    That's an interesting example for me. I noticed the similarity. However, the bottle of Calandre ​I found was flat.

  17. #47

    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Quote Originally Posted by Curly11 View Post
    Haven't looked at the Fragrantica article, but I will soon. While I believe that Vosnaki is knowledgeable and well-educated, I do not enjoy her articles much as I find them cumbersome, pedantic, and irritating to read. Enjoyment of perfume, like any form of art, is subjective, and whether or not one likes brand-new or ancient, who cares?
    Quote Originally Posted by Maque View Post
    In that case, why bother reading on perfume at all? Or even come to a perfume forum to discuss perfume? If perfume is so subjective, can there be any common ground for sharing and discussion then? This seems like a contradictory position.
    Quote Originally Posted by Curly11 View Post
    What I meant was, who cares if a person loves brand-new versus vintage, or vice versa. I did not mean, who cares about Elena Vosnaki's article. Discussion about, and reading about perfume is an important part of this hobby. Vosnaki is widely respected and makes significant contributions to the body of documentation about perfumes in general. Those of us who pursue vintage perfumes will probably continue to do so because, subjectively speaking, we like old perfume.
    Thank you for your clarification.

    I would say, read Elena's article carefully, and try to see her points as they are (and not to ascribe any particular hidden motive). Her points stand on their own: buy vintage free of the illusions/misconceptions that people tend to have.

    Her thesis: "Now that I have caught your attention, dear reader, let's investigate why hawking over online auctions for mystifying bottles with dark liquids and tattered boxes may be a doubtful if entertaining hobby rather than an investment or an art lesson, as you might have originally thought." (Emphases mine.)

    Some salient points:
    Vintage perfumes age, but not always well.
    Vintage perfumes do not represent with fidelity the original conception because of the ageing, and also because of possible improper storing.

    Nowhere in the article does Elena actively opposes vintage simply because it is vintage; and such a stand would contradict what she is as a blogger where she has written very much on vintage.

    In a way, a lot of the furore seems to be centred on the tone of the article, which is unfortunate, and that prevented a lot of people from actually reading the article completely and carefully. But I can also see a lot of vintage-lovers just get defensive, no matter how sensitive this topic can be handled.

  18. #48

    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Hedonist - I have that bottle of Diorella shown and it smells brand new to this day!

    I just bought a full bottle of the original Derby and I am giddy to try it. All of the samples I've tried so far were perfectly preserved but I do have a miniature that has some barely sour top notes which blow away after 15 minutes or so.
    I've yet to find a bum batch of Gucci's Nobile. I have a 30 year old bottle of Carven's Vetiver and I feel the citrus top must be diminished but is otherwise a beauty. My Chanel No. 5 cologne is a little off as well but I still enjoy it. I've got four vintages of English lavender by Yardley - the 50's version is slighly sour atop but far more floral and lush than the others, which are all (70's, 80's, and 2010) new-smelling. All of my old Royal Copenhagen scents held up great. But far and away my favorite oldie is currently a bottle of Norell cologne splash which could originate anywhere from '68-97 and it is stunning; nothing seems to have been lost with time.
    "Strange things are afoot. I am one of them and I am up to another." -*^-'._.'-^*- - S.B.
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  19. #49

    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Quote Originally Posted by Shifty Bat View Post
    Hedonist - I have that bottle of Diorella shown and it smells brand new to this day!

    I just bought a full bottle of the original Derby and I am giddy to try it. All of the samples I've tried so far were perfectly preserved but I do have a miniature that has some barely sour top notes which blow away after 15 minutes or so.
    I've yet to find a bum batch of Gucci's Nobile. I have a 30 year old bottle of Carven's Vetiver and I feel the citrus top must be diminished but is otherwise a beauty. My Chanel No. 5 cologne is a little off as well but I still enjoy it. I've got four vintages of English lavender by Yardley - the 50's version is slighly sour atop but far more floral and lush than the others, which are all (70's, 80's, and 2010) new-smelling. All of my old Royal Copenhagen scents held up great. But far and away my favorite oldie is currently a bottle of Norell cologne splash which could originate anywhere from '68-97 and it is stunning; nothing seems to have been lost with time.
    I've acquired two Derby bottles.
    One is from 1985 & the other 1989.
    They smell exactly the same. And they both smell like a sample a friend gave of his vintage Derby.

    I've deduced that, if properly stored, perfumes will retain substantial freshness.
    for swap/sale:



  20. #50

    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    I've deduced that, if properly stored, perfumes will retain substantial freshness.
    Agree - retain substantial freshness to almost no real loss too in some cases...
    Currently wearing: Vétiver by Christian Dior

  21. #51
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    I've had two bad experiences so far with purchasing vintage. One was a Vol de Nuit EdC which I'm pretty certain has lost it's top notes. The other was Antilope EdC which just has very little scent at all. I'd say EdC is the culprit, but I've got a number of those that have held up remarkably well. So, I think it's just storage, as Kumquat so often reminds us!
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  22. #52
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    Default Re: Favorite Vintage Scents- some insight

    Well, this is going to look a lot like the list I compiled for lpp's thread about discontinued/cult fragrances, so please pardon the repeats, but most of my very favorites are discontinued as well as twenty or thirty years old, some even older. Many of them were brand spankin' new when I got them and grew "vintage" in my possession, actually, which is why I can not only vouch for their provenance, but can be sure about how they were kept, and also how the actual fragrance has held up ...which in all but two cases has been exceptionally well. I've also had very good luck with new-old-stock, which is, of course, the gold-standard when seeking out vintage perfumes (I rarely buy used, but I have inherited *dozens* of used bottles that have all been quite good.)

    Guerlain Chamade, Nahema and Parure
    Chanel Coco, No5, No19, No22 and Bois des Iles
    Dior Miss Dior, Diorissimo, Dune and my latest lovely vintage acquisition, Diorling (70s parfum)
    Gucci No1, Gucci No3 and L'Arte di Gucci
    Royal Copenhagen Flora Danica
    Caron Infini
    the original Calvin Klein for Women
    VCA First
    Fabergé Babe
    EL Azurée, Aliage, Private Collection, Youth Dew and Knowing
    Deneuve
    K de Krizia
    La Perla
    Mystère de Rochas
    Revillon Detchema
    Avon Topaze and Occur
    Molyneux Quartz and Vivre
    Patou 1000 and Sublime
    Yves Rocher 8e Jour
    Ralph Lauren Lauren, Safari and Tuxedo
    YSL Paris, Opium and Rive Gauche
    Ungaro Diva
    Lancôme Climat
    Halston
    Payot Pavlova
    the original Oscar de la Renta
    Jean Marc Sinan Sinan
    Capucci Yendi
    Givenchy Ysatis and Givenchy III
    Balmain Vent Vert, Miss Balmain and Ivoire
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