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  1. #1

    Default Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    A wonderful write up of this lost classic now revived. Wasser is doing some truly marvellous things for us perfume lovers. I cannot even imagine how good the leather would be in this one.


    http://sorceryofscent.blogspot.com.a...sie.html#links
    We live only to discover beauty. All else is a form of waiting. ~Kahlil Gibran

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    Interesting. Thanks for sharing this.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    Great write-up!

    Making one salivate... Unfortunately, this is all in the past. Between IFRA (birch tar, oakmoss) and the demise of animalic musks, this is simply unthinkable today.

    I wonder however about the 1872 - what you describe must be a later iteration in the 20s-30s. Chypre doesn't sound like late 1800, nor does birch tar and the like (was birch tar used in the late XIX as a perfumery material?). Up to Fougere Royale, the stereotype of perfume is that of somewhat sedate florals. But who knows.

    cacio

  4. #4

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    I can only dream how wonderful this is!
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  5. #5
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    Do you think it is silly to hope that perhaps there will be some sort of rebirth of this one into a new version which attempts to be faithful to the original as we've seen with Mitsouko? Oh.....I sure hope so!
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

    My Sales Thread - A Collection Purge

  6. #6

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    Wasn't Jicky classed as the first modern fragrance in 1889, before that it was all colognes and floral fragrances?
    DONNA

  7. #7

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    A kind soul shared a smidge of the orginal with me a couple of years ago [insert caveats here]:
    As much as I love Chanel's Cuir de Russie (esp. vintage), I disliked Guerlain's : far too smoky/ phenolic/ birchtarry for me to actually enjoy.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    Wasn't Jicky classed as the first modern fragrance in 1889, before that it was all colognes and floral fragrances?
    Its odd that Jicky has been given that title because it was not just soliflores and colognes that preceded it. For example, Guerlain launched Rococo A La Parisienne before Jicky, and it was composed of many floral oils. (This is just one of many listed in the Guerlain archives that came before Jicky).
    Perhaps Jicky is considered 'the first" because it is one of the earliest that is still in production today?
    From Wikipedia:

    "The first modern perfume, made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution, was made in 1370 at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary and was known throughout Europe as Hungary Water."

  9. #9

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    I think with 'modern' and Jicky they refer it as the first which starts using synthetics
    Xazirri, discovering the 'mad and magic' world of perfumery

  10. #10

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    Quote Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post
    A kind soul shared a smidge of the orginal with me a couple of years ago [insert caveats here]:
    As much as I love Chanel's Cuir de Russie (esp. vintage), I disliked Guerlain's : far too smoky/ phenolic/ birchtarry for me to actually enjoy.
    Why am I not surprised youíve tried this? I guessed from the description it would be smokier than Chanelís version. Do you remember if there was much shift in the composition from the top notes through to dry down?
    We live only to discover beauty. All else is a form of waiting. ~Kahlil Gibran

  11. #11

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    Quote Originally Posted by Xscent View Post
    Why am I not surprised you’ve tried this? I guessed from the description it would be smokier than Chanel’s version. Do you remember if there was much shift in the composition from the top notes through to dry down?
    Honestly, whatever top notes were once present had no doubt long since disappeared. The stuff was quite ancient (hence the caveats).

  12. #12

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    Phenolic-birch tar sounds good...
    As for first modern etc. - I think the criterion was indeed, as Xazirri said, the use of synthetic material for the structure. And usually the reference for the first one is Fougere royale. Jicky was shortly after, and it's considered the oldest perfume still in production in a state close to what it was.

    cacio

  13. #13

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    Really interesting stuff, I just read the '5 Guerlains in 5 days' series and found that a great read. It's great learning about some lost and forgotten gems from a legendary house.

    Cuir de Russie sounds fantastic, I'm surprised they didn't re-issue it in the 80's or 90's like they did for Djedi. I'm sure, like cacio said, it'd be impossible to re-issue now and any attempt to re-create it and sell it would result in something barely a shadow of the original stuff.

    Just for curiosity sake I tried to see if any of these old Guerlains are available on ebay and the very few listings that popped up (most just one listing) show the price, not surprisingly, so high. Well into the thousands.

    Couldn't find Cuir de Russie anywhere.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Guerlain Cuir de Russie

    Quote Originally Posted by canuck21 View Post
    Couldn't find Cuir de Russie anywhere.

    LOL, same here, first thing I did was search; to be honest, being a huge Guerlain fan, I still had no cluse that they had their "cuir de Russie" until i read this post...

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