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  1. #1
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    What are your favorite old or new chypres? Male or female.
    So many are discontinued due to oak moss restrictions. Luckily, new ones do exist. Let's keep each other informed.

    Givenchy Gentleman-vintage
    The Party in Manhattan
    Profumum-Rosae Mundi
    Mazzolari-Mazzolari
    Mazzolari-Lui
    Mazzolari-Vetiver
    MDCI-Cuir Garamante
    MDCI-Chypre Palatin


    ​Just a few to get you started.
    Currently wearing: Chamarré by Mona di Orio

  2. #2

    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    New and Unisex. Anat Fritz Tzora.
    MadHat Scents

    Røyk - Now Available (Incense, Woods, Amber) / Skiff ON SALE! - (Ambergris, Tropical Fruit, Pacific Red Cedar, Floral Mukhallat) / Khus (Ruh Khus, Sandalwood, Rose, Geranium) / Oudhy ON SALE! (Dark Rose, Dried Woods, Oud, Musk)

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    I am totally baffled by this class to be honest.
    Is Chypre Mousse a chypre in anything but name only? It is very mossy and is outstanding.
    How about je suis un Homme?
    or Dior Jules or Bel Ami?
    what do these fragrances have in common with Chypre Palatin?

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Cabochard
    Azuree
    Both currently available and inexpensive.

    I adore Chypre Palatin. It's terrific but it doesn't wear like my idea of a chypre on me??

    There is a gorgeous Rose Chypre that keeps escaping me but I have tried it. I think that it is from the Parfumerie Generale line. If anyone knows what I am talking about ( ), please enlighten me!

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    New
    MDCI Enlevement au serail and (in part) promesse de l'aube (I actually don't perceive Chypre Palatin as chypre, old or new, but I need to smell more properly)
    Estee Lauder Jasmine white moss (a bit too clean relative to true green chypres, but good nonetheless)

    Old
    too many to mention. In recent weeks, I have found decent prices for Miss Balmain.

    cacio

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    See Cacio said it too.......

  7. #7

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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Foustie:

    didn't see your email. I know of a Rose Chypree by Tauer. I tried it once, didn't really get much chypre per se - but as usual, without oakmoss, the concept of chypre must be enlarged as necessary. Good nonetheless.

    cacio

  8. #8

    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Mitsouko & AdP Profumo are my two 'reference' chypres, still. The older Profumo seems to do with plum what Mitsouko did with peach.

    Cuir d'Oranger
    hasemerged as massive favourite in the last year or so and I also quite like Azemour les Orangers

    Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille
    (Annick Goutal) was a pleasant surprise but more in the Aromatics Elixir bitter chypre with patch area. I read recently they were pulling it from the line but that's unconfirmed.

    Diaghilev and some of the recent uber-expensive Roja Dove stuff is pretty nice but a bit too 'tightly packed' for me - 'smug chypres'. They 'work' but there's no real romance to them. That said, to find new compositions of this calibre in these strait-laced 'nanny state' IFRA'ed times is verging on a miracle - go, Roja!

    Not strictly speaking a chypre but I can sense the oakmoss in Granville (Dior) under the piney / herbal stuff - the whole thing is breezy enough to allow it shine through in much the same way as it does with Sous le Vent a lighter EDT chypre feel.

    Enjoying Jubilation 25 still . . . and if you come across it (it may have been pulled, wouldn't surprise me because it's good) Cosmic from Solange is a rollicking feelgood hoot of a chypre - nothing is held back, just BIG FUN.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 19th March 2014 at 11:20 PM.
    “Anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge.'”
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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Quote Originally Posted by Foustie View Post
    I adore Chypre Palatin. It's terrific but it doesn't wear like my idea of a chypre on me??
    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I actually don't perceive Chypre Palatin as chypre, old or new, but I need to smell more properly
    My bottle seems relatively light on the oakmoss, leaving it's credentials as a true chypre somewhat blurred. (An observation rather than a criticism though - it is spectacularly beautiful stuff).

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Thanks Cacio. Yes I've tried Rose Chypree once too. It's not that one, and I have remembered that it's not from PG either, of course it's not, duh, what was I thinking? It's in the Parfums D'Empire line. Hopefully someone attracted to this thread (thanks kumquat) will know it.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Quote Originally Posted by james1051 View Post
    How about Dior Jules
    That's a fougère.

    For a classic chypre look no further: Eau Sauvage. Especially the older oakmoss containing versions are great.
    by the time you can afford good speakers, you can't hear the difference

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Quote Originally Posted by Beftus View Post

    For a classic chypre look no further: Eau Sauvage. Especially the older oakmoss containing versions are great.
    Dang! forgot all about that one. I recently compared a well preserved ES EdC to the current EdT, and they were remarkably close. The current stuff remains quite good.

  13. #13
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    As far as I'm concerned a proper chypre should at least be greenish and sappy. If you're lucky, it will also be mossy and or leathery. Chypres tend to be deep in structure , except for something like the modern so-called "pink chypre" of which the only decent example (I can think of) is ​31 Rue Cambone. It is at least tangy.
    Last edited by kumquat; 19th March 2014 at 04:53 PM.
    Currently wearing: Chamarré by Mona di Orio

  14. #14

    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Quote Originally Posted by james1051 View Post
    The current stuff remains quite good.
    It sure is very good stuff. I bought a 200ml bottle last year when I finished my 100ml bottle. The 2001 limited edition ES 100% Glacon (AKA 100% Cooling Effect) smells like the good old ES stuff with some menthol thrown in. ES 100% Glacon is difficult to find but worth having, sometimes a few pop up on eBay.
    by the time you can afford good speakers, you can't hear the difference

  15. #15
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    I concur with Azurée, Cabochard, Vintage Acqua di Parma Profumo & Mitsouko (2 standards).
    Adding- Vintage- Coty Chypre, Estée Lauder Private Collection,
    Houbigant- Aperçu, Madame Rochas, Vintage- Houbigant- Quelque Fleurs,
    Vintage Caron-Tabac Blond, Fleurs de Rocailles, Infini (everything, really).
    ​Guerlain- Sous les Vent, Vol du Nuit

    Aperçu
    is charming and very mossy and sappy. Still available. Get it while it's hot!
    Last edited by kumquat; 19th March 2014 at 06:04 PM.
    Currently wearing: Chamarré by Mona di Orio

  16. #16

    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Eau de Campagne [Sisley] is a gorgeous refreshing chypre.
    Perfect for summer.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Aigues Vives
    Rafting
    Seigneur
    Cosaque
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve other individuals' acknowledgement or respect.

  18. #18
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Aigues Vives
    Rafting
    Seigneur
    Cosaque
    I looked these up, Hednic. They look interesting.

    http://www.galimard.com/index.php/en...e/for-men.html
    Currently wearing: Chamarré by Mona di Orio

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    I would like to underline Estee Lauder Private Collection. It's been mentioned but I think it deserves its own post as a classic chypre that's still going strong and is very reasonably priced.

  20. #20
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Quote Originally Posted by Mocha View Post
    I would like to underline Estee Lauder Private Collection. It's been mentioned but I think it deserves its own post as a classic chypre that's still going strong and is very reasonably priced.
    Yes, I think it's still very good. Also, Azurée needs emphasizing. Aliage is still great as is Estée although both of those are acquired tastes and not for the faint of heart.
    I don't mind the current Chanel No. 19, but once you've had the vintage EDP, you'll never want any other juice. But if you have to settle for modern, the parfum is the way to go.
    Currently wearing: Chamarré by Mona di Orio

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Roja Dove Diaghilev. Amazing stuff!
    Summer rotation:
    Xerjoff Uden
    Creed Virgin Island Water
    Creed Aventus
    Frapin L'humaniste
    Dior Homme cologne 2013
    Tom Ford Neroli Portofino
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  22. #22
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    http://www.ajne.com/shop/product.php...&cat=23&page=2

    http://www.ajne.com/shop/product.php...&cat=23&page=3

    http://www.ajne.com/shop/product.php...&cat=24&page=2

    Try some of these beauties from "Ajne".

    Espoir
    Printemps
    Savoir

    All of the Ajne scents are well-blended and dense. The ingredients are high quality and long-lasting. I'm not sure about the claim of "all-natural" but I really like the way these smell. They also tout these as being worn by celebrities. Oh well. They're very good anyway.
    Last edited by kumquat; 19th March 2014 at 11:38 PM.
    Currently wearing: Chamarré by Mona di Orio

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    It's been my experience that most classic chypres have been drastically reformulated, even some of the newer ones such as the once amazing chypre and still great floral Enlevement au Serail.

    A few:

    Bel Ami (vintage)
    Mitsouko (vintage)
    Pour Monsieur (vintage)
    Yatagan (vintage)
    Derby (vintage)
    Onda Parfum Extrait (vintage)
    Aramis 900 (vintage)
    Sagamore
    Coriolan
    Eau de Rochas Homme (vintage)
    Eau Sauvage (vintage)
    Aramis (vintage)
    Leonard pour Homme (original 1980 formulation)
    Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme (vintage)
    No. 19 (vintage)
    Aromatics Elixir (vintage)
    Miss Balmain (vintage)
    Diorella (vintage)
    Enlevement au Serail (vintage)
    Femme (vintage)
    Bandit (vintage)
    Futur (vintage)
    Azuree (vintage)
    Cristalle (vintage)
    Knowing (vintage)
    Vie de Chateau (vintage)
    Acqua di Parma Profumo (vintage)
    Sous le Vent
    Rose de Nuit (vintage)
    Jubilation 25
    Cabochard (vintage)

    I think of Givenchy Gentleman as a classic woods fragrance rather than a chypre. Excellent,though ! Vintage that is. :-)
    Last edited by pluran; 19th March 2014 at 11:58 PM.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    It's been my experience that most classic chypres have been drastically reformulated, even some of the newer ones such as the once amazing chypre and still great floral Enlevement au Serail.

    A few:

    Bel Ami (vintage)
    Mitsouko (vintage)
    Pour Monsieur (vintage)
    Yatagan (vintage)
    Derby (vintage)
    Onda Parfum Extrait (vintage)
    Aramis 900 (vintage)
    Sagamore
    Coriolan
    Eau de Rochas Homme (vintage)
    Eau Sauvage (vintage)
    Aramis (vintage)
    Leonard pour Homme (original 1980 formulation)
    Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme (vintage)
    No. 19 (vintage)
    Aromatics Elixir (vintage)
    Miss Balmain (vintage)
    Diorella (vintage)
    Enlevement au Serail (vintage)
    Femme (vintage)
    Bandit (vintage)
    Futur (vintage)
    Azuree (vintage)
    Cristalle (vintage)
    Knowing (vintage)
    Vie de Chateau (vintage)
    Acqua di Parma Profumo (vintage)
    Sous le Vent
    Rose de Nuit (vintage)
    Jubilation 25
    Cabochard (vintage)

    I think of Givenchy Gentleman as a classic woods fragrance rather than a chypre. Excellent,though ! Vintage that is. :-)
    SIGH
    * * * *

  25. #25
    taint it sweet's Avatar
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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Derby
    Chypre Palatin

  26. #26

    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Trussardi by Trussardi

    Floral leather chypre. Lush, wet, green and vintage contains a good amount of oak moss and galbanum.
    We live only to discover beauty. All else is a form of waiting. ~Kahlil Gibran

  27. #27

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    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Quote Originally Posted by Foustie View Post
    Thanks Cacio. Yes I've tried Rose Chypree once too. It's not that one, and I have remembered that it's not from PG either, of course it's not, duh, what was I thinking? It's in the Parfums D'Empire line. Hopefully someone attracted to this thread (thanks kumquat) will know it.
    I'm not sure about the Parfums d'Empire line; can't recall a rose chypre there, but I do recall that PG's Corps et Ames (the original, not the newer "fresh" version) is a green chypre-type thing with prominent rose.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  28. #28

    Lightbulb Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Quote Originally Posted by Foustie View Post
    Cabochard
    Azuree
    Both currently available and inexpensive.

    I adore Chypre Palatin. It's terrific but it doesn't wear like my idea of a chypre on me??

    There is a gorgeous Rose Chypre that keeps escaping me but I have tried it. I think that it is from the Parfumerie Generale line. If anyone knows what I am talking about ( ), please enlighten me!
    Hi Foustie - Could it be that you are talking about Parfumérie Générale no. 26 - Isparta?

    Lovely oriental chypre with Turkish rose , patchouli, incense, oud.
    Currently wearing: Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

  29. #29

    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Not to forget

    the classic Nuit de Noël l'extrait,

    and a great modern chypre:

    Iris Nobile
    Currently wearing: Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

  30. #30

    Default Re: Classic (style) chypres that don't disappoint

    Though I second the psts above by Pluran and all the contributors, still somehow feeling that there are so many names yet so little time and-or blank posting space to name and honor all of them.

    Thus, a very incomplete and perfectible cross-section (too short to be named a list) with some of my favorites:

    Francesco Smalto PH
    Chevignon Brand for Men
    Spazio Krizia
    Joint by Roccobarocco
    Aramis Tuscany (including its higher concentration flanker)
    Le Dix by Balenciaga
    Silences by Jacomo
    Yardley Citrus&Wood, as well as Fine Scottish Soaps EDT (surprisingly affordable and not the likeliest choices as chypre scents, yet interesting and non-linear renditions of this scent category)
    CK Eternity for Men, especially vintage (not sure if it counts either, but still quite similar to the overall concept)
    RL Polo Green
    Paco Rabanne PH
    Gucci Nobile (all of these being somewhat closer to a fougere, even a barbershop and powerhouse style of fragrance rather than an actual chypre, with still with some crossover into the latter category)
    the initial Jaguar for Men (green bottle, preferably vintage, with just enough citrus, leather, wood and spicy herbs, as well as some almost resinous/mossy undertones to be more or less of a chpyre)
    Hermes Rocabar
    Boucheron PH, especially the EDP flanker (the chypre-like accents of thicker, less zesty citrus, as well as a somehow stronger drydown being more pronounced in this one)
    Jovoy Hesperidee
    Axe Chypre (surprisingly good and not just inaccurately named, actually less offensive and more structured, versatile and imaginative than actually expected from this brand)
    John Players Classic Green (again, a solid cheapie with unexpectedly good chypre notes)
    Hugh Parsons Yellow and La Martina Hombre- apparently, both of these niche scents have almost solely citrus-based top notes, but still closer to a chypre once the final sillage is reached
    Face a Face and Homme- both by Faconnable
    also by the aforementioned house of Houbigant: for some reason, Duc de Vervins also smells like a smokier, darker yet also (in a positive way) quite formal, conservative chypre to me.

    And the list may well go on almost indefinitely.

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