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  1. #31
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    I have an added question for you all. What is the most Iris heavy scent. Not just the best, but the strongest Iris.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

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  2. #32
    Basenotes Junkie Mocha's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Quote Originally Posted by danieq View Post
    I have an added question for you all. What is the most Iris heavy scent. Not just the best, but the strongest Iris.
    Of those I've tried, Iris Silver Mist.
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  3. #33
    Dependent ErinK's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Long post alert. I have read a lot about irises, so here are some of my thoughts on the subject.

    From what I have read, there are a few indisputable classics in the category:

    Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist
    Xerjoff Irisss
    L'Artisan Iris Pallida
    Infusion d'Iris
    Hiris
    Iris Poudre

    Have you ever read Luca Turin's introduction to Perfumes: The Guide? He describes 2 categories of perfume: representative and abstract. Representative scents are those that are supposed to smell nearly like the real-life thing: for example, Perfumers Workshop Tea Rose is a great representation of the smell of roses. An abstract scent, on the other hand, would be something like Chanel No.5: it has floral components but when you smell it, it's nothing you can sniff and put your finger on and say "This smells exactly like x smells."

    The interesting thing about iris perfumes is that they are nearly smack-dab in the middle of representative and abstract. They are based around the root, not the flower. Have you ever smelled an iris root? I haven't -- I only know the note from perfumes. Iris perfumes are abstract in that most explore different facets of the representative smell of iris root. Some highlight iris with incense, others with green notes, some with woods, others vanilla, or aldehydes.

    So as far as a "most irissy iris," I don't know how to answer. I have seen some say Xerjoff Irisss is the "most irissy iris" (but I've never tried it, as I just haven't yet felt like shelling out the money for it when there are plenty of beautiful irises out there). Others say Iris Silver Mist is the iris to end all irises.

    The following is an excellent article on many different categories of iris:

    http://perfumeposse.com/2013/06/10/b...hensive-guide/


    I personally feel it is most useful to focus on the abstract aspect of irises rather than the representative. There is an iris for every mood: in your iris explorations, you'll find a somber iris (perhaps Iris Silver Mist), a bright iris (Hiris), a formal iris (Iris Poudre), a masculine iris (Iris Nazarena), a serene iris (Silver Iris), a cozy iris (VC&A Bois d'Iris), an edible iris (Iris Ganache), a straightforward iris (Iris d'Argent), etc, etc.

    Therein lies the beauty in irises: not in the representation, but in the interpretation.
    Last edited by ErinK; 2nd April 2014 at 01:25 AM.
    The best and most beautiful things in the world cannot be seen or even touched - they must be felt with the heart. ~ Helen Keller
    Currently wearing: Bandit by Robert Piguet

  4. #34

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    +1 for Iris de Nuit, Iris Nazarena, Impossible Iris, VC&A Bois d'Iris, PG Cuir d'Iris, Iris Silver Mist, and PG Felanilla -- the craziest, cross-dressing iris you'll ever encounter

    Two others no one has mentioned are PG Iris Oriental and Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman.

    And to think -- a year ago I was convinced I couldn't wear and didn't like iris. Insanity!

    (Love your post, ErinK!!)

  5. #35

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Great post ErinK. I've enjoyed reading this thread, and agree with much of what is said. Personally, for me, the iris lover, I prefer to not have it be the overriding smell. I love how the different aspects are represented in so many different ways - moods as Erin says - and I agree. I love the Chanel Exclusif line largely because of the prominent iris in many of them. I love iris and leather, iris atop or supporting other florals, iris as a powder aspect, and iris mixed with various other main players (woods being another fav). It is my favorite perfume note, mostly because it is able to express itself in so very many different ways.

    I suppose Iris Silver Mist is the most pure rendition of the note that I have smelled, but ironically, I have never been swayed to purchase it. It is more of a reference to me, not necessarily one that I want to wear often.

  6. #36

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Quote Originally Posted by ErinK View Post

    Have you ever read Luca Turin's introduction to Perfumes: The Guide? He describes 2 categories of perfume: representative and abstract. Representative scents are those that are supposed to smell nearly like the real-life thing: for example, Perfumers Workshop Tea Rose is a great representation of the smell of roses. An abstract scent, on the other hand, would be something like Chanel No.5: it has floral components but when you smell it, it's nothing you can sniff and put your finger on and say "This smells exactly like x smells."

    The interesting thing about iris perfumes is that they are nearly smack-dab in the middle of representative and abstract. They are based around the root, not the flower. Have you ever smelled an iris root? I haven't -- I only know the note from perfumes. Iris perfumes are abstract in that most explore different facets of the representative smell of iris root. Some highlight iris with incense, others with green notes, some with woods, others vanilla, or aldehydes.

    So as far as a "most irissy iris," I don't know how to answer. I have seen some say Xerjoff Irisss is the "most irissy iris" (but I've never tried it, as I just haven't yet felt like shelling out the money for it when there are plenty of beautiful irises out there). Others say Iris Silver Mist is the iris to end all irises.

    The following is an excellent article on many different categories of iris:

    http://perfumeposse.com/2013/06/10/b...hensive-guide/


    I personally feel it is most useful to focus on the abstract aspect of irises rather than the representative. There is an iris for every mood: in your iris explorations, you'll find a somber iris (perhaps Iris Silver Mist), a bright iris (Hiris), a formal iris (Iris Poudre), a masculine iris (Iris Nazarena), a serene iris (Silver Iris), a cozy iris (VC&A Bois d'Iris), an edible iris (Iris Ganache), a straightforward iris (Iris d'Argent), etc, etc.

    Therein lies the beauty in irises: not in the representation, but in the interpretation.
    Good point.

    It's a point I've been bringing up for years now.

    The other day I fortunate to chance upon done iris at my local florist. But alas, they were scentless.
    A friend said some iris flowers do have scent.

    But the majority of us are going by what iris smells like based on perfumes that are deemed 'chock full of iris' by people on the internet.

    The two types are rooty & flowery.

    Iris Silver Mist being the rooty rep in this case.

    If Iris Silver Mist is indeed what the root smells like, then yes Xerjoff's Irisss is a very strong contender. It's as intense as ISM. But intensity is not everything, balance composition is far more important & hence why I prefer ISM over Irisss.

    Then iris Nazarena, Iris Prima & Iris Pallida ask qualify.

    But personally I look no further than ISM & l'Artisan's masterpiece Iris Pallida.
    for swap/sale:



  7. #37

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    I should mention, I have actually smelled Iris (labeled as orris on the bottles) essential oil from Chanel, Dior & Le Labo.

    They smelled like ISM.
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  8. #38
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    From what i remember, is Iris Silver Mist. The most intense and haunting iris ever made and this was what lutens asked mauricel roucel to do.

  9. #39

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    One more, danieq: Parfums DelRae Mythique, which highlights the rooty aspects of iris, presented as suede. Not as sweet or fruity as Daim Blond -- another of my favorite irises -- and not as rooty as Iris Silver Mist.

  10. #40

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Iris Nazarena was my sotd today.

    Loved the rooty opening.
    But that was gone in an hour.
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  11. #41
    Dependent ErinK's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Iris Nazarena was my sotd today.

    Loved the rooty opening.
    But that was gone in an hour.
    The first time I smelled the opening of Iris Nazarena I thought I'd died and gone to heaven - so carroty/rooty you can almost taste it. When that was gone, however, it turned VERY masculine on me. I smelled like a man, or, to be more specific, a mechanic, it was so woody & smoky I felt like I was wearing gasoline exhaust fumes. So, props to you gals who can wear this one - I sure can't - more power to you!
    The best and most beautiful things in the world cannot be seen or even touched - they must be felt with the heart. ~ Helen Keller
    Currently wearing: Bandit by Robert Piguet

  12. #42

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    You're right! A couple of hours into it & it reminded of some designer men's I wrote a decade ago. Not bad smelling per se but very nondescript.
    Not worthy of the Aedes de Venustas endorsement imo.

    The same exact experience applies to Iris Prima.
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  13. #43

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    +1 for Equistrius , it's a splendid and complex iris, one of the best I've known so far. Also, L'homme de coeur by Divine was a really interesting take on iris - fresh, grey, kind of cold and metallic. Finally also Daimiris by Laboratorio Olfattivo is quite good.
    Last edited by Colin Maillard; 2nd April 2014 at 08:51 PM.
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  14. #44
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Thanks ErinK for that wonderful post! Loved reading the article you posted.

    And thanks to all for your insights and suggestions. I'm taking copious notes!
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

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  15. #45
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Wearing Iris Silver Mist from a small sample this morning and really digging that earthy feel it has. It's certainly not powdery, but I am finding it addicting.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

    My Sales Thread - A Collection Purge

  16. #46

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Last edited by OPomone; 25th April 2014 at 08:08 PM.

  17. #47
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    IMO danieq it's gonna be hard for any of the above suggestions to beat out Iris Silver Mist.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle
    Currently wearing: No. 5 L'Eau by Chanel

  18. #48
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    I did try dior Homme and Homme Intense last week and I found them very heavy on the gourmand end, which I didn't end up liking. The Iris was overpowered. Too bad, the price is nice.

    One I found and enjoyed was Bvlgari Amethyste

    Last night I went to bed in a LOT of Hiris due to spilling and with so much, that was overpowering. Will try again with a lighter touch.

    I get the feeling you are right Mike, based on all the similar opinions to be found. I wish it was easier to get here.
    Last edited by danieq; 8th April 2014 at 03:52 PM.

  19. #49
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Got my hands on Infusion D'Iris Absolue and fell instantly in love with its soft, roots beauty.

    Now, if only that Iris 39 split would fill!

    I have ISM and Nazrena on the way to me. Yum! Seems to me that the four of these might make up the perfect Iris quad.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

    My Sales Thread - A Collection Purge

  20. #50
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Narciso Rodriguez For Him Eau de Parfum Intense. An explosion of iris right out of the box. Touted as 'unisex' despite the 'For Him' labeling
    Things are things because of Mind--Zen Buddhist saying
    Currently wearing: Polo Black by Ralph Lauren

  21. #51

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Nazarena's rooty iris was perfect, the first 30 mins. Then the rooty iris dissipated.
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  22. #52
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    I seem to recall reading that you had said this before Hedonist. I hope my skin responds differently, but I guess we shall see. I've got just a decant coming my way.

    Kbe, I need to look that one up as well. It seems to have been discontinued, but the musk looks to be pretty similar.
    Last edited by danieq; 11th April 2014 at 05:44 PM.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

    My Sales Thread - A Collection Purge

  23. #53

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    I hope so too Danieq.
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  24. #54
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Two others to try KM Iris Poupre and KM Iris d'Argent.

    If you want something with the iris, I love MPG Bois de Turquie

    While I wear and appreciate ISM, I have to give Iris 39 my vote for favourite! I like the warmth given by the patchouli, over the coolness found in Heeley, ISM, etc

  25. #55
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Quote Originally Posted by danieq View Post
    Got my hands on Infusion D'Iris Absolue and fell instantly in love with its soft, roots beauty.

    Now, if only that Iris 39 split would fill!

    I have ISM and Nazrena on the way to me. Yum! Seems to me that the four of these might make up the perfect Iris quad.
    I agree! Good luck
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle
    Currently wearing: No. 5 L'Eau by Chanel

  26. #56
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    I still haven't received the Iris Nazrena, but I thought I'd share what my findings are having tried many others.

    My favorites are, in the following order

    Prada Infusion d'Iris Absolue
    Le Labo Iris 39 (this is from a very generous spray sample of the massage oil that a kind basenoter sent to me, hoping the EdP isn't much different, but that silly split won't fill. I'll end up forced to buy the rest of the 100ml remaining at this rate if things don't move along!)
    Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist

    There are a new others that I want to try, but I feel pretty confident I've found my HG Irises.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

    My Sales Thread - A Collection Purge

  27. #57

    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Quote Originally Posted by danieq View Post
    There are a new others that I want to try, but I feel pretty confident I've found my HG Irises.
    Did you try Mare yet though?

  28. #58
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    Thumbs up Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    Another big Iris fan, here.
    Some of my favorites are ISM, Iris 39, Iris Pallida (wearing today), L'eau d'Hiver, Lab. Olfattivo Nirmal, Cuir d'Iris, Iris Oriental, Iris de Nuit, 28 La Pausa, Iris Ukiyoe'.
    And the aforementioned Mare.

    I was a tad underwhelmed by Iris Nazarena, which started nicely but evolved rather quickly to an amber-y scent. For me. But I reserve the right to change my mind!
    Last edited by james1051; 21st May 2014 at 05:38 PM.
    Currently wearing: L'Homme Sage by Divine

  29. #59
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Iris fan -- It's Official

    I have a sample of Mare, but keep forgetting to try it. I did sniff it once on the skin and didn't like it, but it really wasn't a fair chance. Well, and it's discontinued, so the idea of loving it and not being able to get it (which is what happens with the SH scents I seem to love the most) is too much to bear.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

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