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  1. #1

    Default The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Ok…bear in mind this is just a bit of fun and everyones opinion is equally valid and appreciated.

    Choose any category and say what you think is your own most typical example of that particular fragrance type.

    Something that might really illustrate to a non-perfumista what you meant by that category. (tell me if I've missed one out)

    No holds barred.

    own perfume groups_Layout 1.jpg

    (i don't know how to make it bigger here, so you'll have to click on it to enlarge it)

    Here is a list to copy and paste the answers by:-

    aldehyde -
    ozonic -
    laundry fresh -
    modern/metallic -
    citrus -
    fruity -
    floral -
    lavender -
    fougere -
    herbaceous -
    green -
    chypre -
    conifer -
    gourmand/sweet -
    oriental -
    spicy -
    woody -
    musk -
    tobacco -
    leather -
    oudh -
    incense -
    amber -
    vetiver -
    Last edited by mumsy; 27th April 2014 at 11:25 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    aldehyde - Chanel No. 5 by Chanel
    ozonic - Voyageur by Jean Patou
    laundry fresh - Invasion Barbare by MDCI
    modern/metallic - Secretions Manifiques by ELdO (though not recommended)
    citrus - Extract of West Indian Limes by Trumper
    fruity - Miss Boucheron by Boucheron
    floral - Portrait of a Lady by EdP Frédéric Malle
    lavender - Patou pour Homme Privé by Jean Patou
    fougere - Fougere Royale (vintage) by Houbigant
    herbaceous - Lalfeorosa by O'driù
    green - Eau de Campagne by Sisley
    chypre - Sous Le Vent by Guerlain
    conifer - Original Polo (vintage) by Ralph Lauren
    gourmand/sweet - Yohji Homme (vintage) by Yohji Yamamoto
    oriental - Bal à Versailles (vintage Parfum) by Jean Desprez
    spicy - Padparadscha by Satellite
    woody - Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver by Mona di Orio
    musk - Musc by Bruno Acampora
    tobacco - Havana (vintage) by Aramis
    leather - Cuiron by Helmut Lang
    oudh - Oud Shamash by The Different Company
    incense - Incense Oud by By Kilian
    amber - Les Nombres d'Or Ambre by Mona di Orio
    vetiver - Turtle Vetiver Front by LesNez
    Last edited by drseid; 28th April 2014 at 12:02 AM.
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4)
    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6)
    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
    9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
    9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
    9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
    9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie

  3. #3
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Fruity - Pretty Fruity
    Leather - Leather by Franck Boclet
    Green - Nu Green
    Oriental - Gengis Khan
    Oudh - Original Aoud
    Lavender - Lavande by Molinard
    Citrus - Monsieur Balmain
    Wood - Cedre by L'Occitane
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  4. #4

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    I'm not going to do all of them but here are a few:-
    Musk Musc Koublai Khan
    Woody Rush for Men
    Ozonic New West, Eau d'Issey
    Citrus Eau Sauvage
    Green Vent Vert (Vintage, original), Chanel 19 (vintage, original)
    Fougere Many different types of Fougere. Brut, Cool Water, Penhaligan's English Fern,
    Chypre Mitsouko (vintage), Miss Dior (vintage), Femme (vintage)
    Leather Bandit (vintage), Chanel Cuir Russie (vintage)
    Gourmand/SweetAngel
    Oriental Two main types. Shalimar (vintage). Youth Dew, Opium, Cinnabar (vintage)
    AldehydeChanel 5, Chanel 22, White Linen (all vintage)

    That'll do from me.

  5. #5
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    aldehyde - Chanel No 5, of course
    ozonic - Creed Erolfa
    laundry fresh - Issey Miyake A Scent, but it was CK One that's the benchmark
    modern/metallic - Azzaro Chrome
    citrus - Eau de Hadrien
    fruity - Calyx Prescriptives
    floral - maybe Fracas or A La Nuit - there are so many...
    lavender - Les Plus Belles Lavande de Caron
    fougere - Caron Pour Un Homme
    herbaceous - not sure - probably one of the older Diptyques
    green - Diptyque Eau de Lierre
    chypre - Eau Sauvage
    conifer - CDG Hinoki
    gourmand/sweet - Pink Sugar
    oriental - Chanel Coromandel
    spicy - Caron Poivre
    woody - CDG Jaisalmer
    musk - Shalimar
    tobacco - Tobacco Vanille
    leather - Tuscan Leather
    oudh - just buy some oud oil...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  6. #6

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    aldehyde - chanel no 5
    laundry fresh - Kurkdjian aqua universalis
    citrus - cologne sologne
    fruity -
    floral - joy
    lavender - caron pour un homme
    fougere - jicky
    herbaceous - yatagan
    green - paco rabanne metal
    chypre - coty chypre
    conifer - fille en aiguilles
    gourmand/sweet - jeux de peau
    oriental - shalimar
    musk - musks koublai khan
    leather - rien
    oudh - leather oudh

    cacio

  7. #7
    Basenotes Junkie
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    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    This is what i consider reference fragrances. Fragrances that when someone asks "what does a xx smell like".

    aldehyde - chanel no 5
    ozonic - eau d' issey
    citrus - ck one
    floral - j'dore
    fougere - brut
    herbaceous - truth by calvin klein
    green - amazingreen, cdg
    conifer - pino silvestre
    gourmand/sweet - angel/amen
    oriental - opium
    spicy - mona d' orio cuir (also my modern leather, but not my reference)
    woody - marc jacobs bang
    musk - extreme musk, perris of monte carlo
    leather - cuir d' russie
    Oudh - terryfic oud

  8. #8
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    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    aldehyde- Givenchy III (new)
    laundry fresh- Puro Lino
    ozonic- Stephen Jones- Cosmic Solange
    citrus- Profumum- Acqua Viva
    fruity- Frapin 1270
    floral- Profumum- Rosae Mundi
    lavender- By Killian- A Taste of Heaven
    fougere- Estée Lauder- Alliage
    herbaceous- Hierbas de Ibiza
    green- Estée Lauder- Azureé
    chypre- Ajne- Savoir
    conifer- Caron- Yatagan
    gourmand/sweet- Profumum- Dulcis in Fundo
    oriental- Opium
    spicy- Serge Lutens- Ambre Sultan
    woody- Tam Dao
    musk- MDCI- Une Coeur en Mai
    leather- Chanel- Cuir de Russie
    oud- Montale- Black Aoud

  9. #9

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Fabulous examples. I feel like lining them all up myself for a sniffathon.

  10. #10

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Some personal favourites and just my own very 'loose' take on the categories, by no means a 'definitive' thing:


    Woods: Timbuktu, Gaiac (Micallef)
    Sandalwood: Santalum Album (Dubrana), L'Arbre, Tam Dao EDP
    Oud Wood Chips: Leather Oud, Songe d'un Bois d'Ete
    Citrus: Eau de Guerlain, Philtre d'Amour, Sous le Vent, Bigarade Concentree
    Green: Granville, Chypre Palatin, Mito
    Vetiver: Onda, Vetiver Pour Elle, Sycomore
    Fougere: Jicky, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Nicolai Pour Homme - English Fern back when it was good.
    Nu-Fougere: Yohji Homme, Forreau Noir, Invasion Barbare, 1725, Violette Fumee, Kiki
    Chypre: Mitsouko, Aromatics Elixir, Jubilation 25, Derby, Odalisque, Insensé
    Oriental: Shalimar . . . enough said okay, Opium et al but Fate Woman is a modern wonder.
    Chypriental: Patou Pour Homme, Tiffany for Men, New York
    Frankincense: Memoir Man, Avignon, Black
    Balsamic: Bois d'Armenie, Imperial Opoponax
    Spice: Idole, Noir Epices, 10 Corso Como
    Hay / Yerbamaté: L'Heure Fougueuse, Chergui, Duel, Fieno
    Tea: Le Treizieme Heure, Osmanthe Yunnan, Bulgari Thé Vert
    Rose: Homage, Lyric Woman, Une Rose
    Rosenpatchz: Portrait of a Lady
    Iris: Iris Silver Mist, Iris Poudre, Dior Homme
    Tuberose: Carnal Flower
    Orange Flower: Seville a l'Aube
    Heliotropin / Mimosa: Apres l'Ondee, L'Eau d'Hiver
    Tobacco: Volutes EDT
    Leather: Cuir de Russie, Cuir d'Oranger, Cuir Pleine Fleur, Peau d'Espagne
    Gourmandish: Arabie, Coromandel, Dries van Noten, Vetiver Tonka
    Ambergris: Encens Mythique d'Orient, Amber Attar (Amouage)
    Musk: Musc Koublai Khan, Kiehls Musc

    Indefinable: L'Heure Bleue and also Une Fleur de Cassie.

    It goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) the original, or at least 'earlier', formulations are the ones to go for.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 29th April 2014 at 09:51 AM.
    “Anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge.'”
    ― Isaac Asimov

  11. #11

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    I'm going with some of my favorites. Beside their relevance in perfume history…

    aldehyde - Comme Des Garcons For Stephen Jones Millenery
    ozonic - Mario Valentino Ocean Rain
    laundry fresh - Helmut Lang EDC / Comme Des Garcons Odeur 53
    modern/metallic - Comme Des Garcons Odeur 71
    citrus - Chanel EDC / Eau De Guerlain, Sous Le Vent / Mito / Eau Radieuse
    fruity - Vero Profumo Onda EDT (this is my threshold for fruity stuff)
    floral - Une Fleur De Cassie / Rubj / Rozy / Fleurs De Sel / Insensè / Fracas
    lavender - Vero Profumo Kiki / Patou Pour Homme Prive
    fougere - Kouros / Gucci Nobile
    herbaceous - Lalfeogrigio O'Driù
    green - Eau de Campagne
    chypre - Mitsouko / Jubilation 25 and several several others...
    conifer - Fille En Aiguilles
    gourmand/sweet - Aomassai
    oriental - Tiffany For Men / Shalimar
    spicy - Comme Des Garcons Original EDP
    woody - Bois D'Ascese and several others...
    musk - Muscs Koublai Kahn / Montecristo
    tobacco - Snuff by Schiaparelli / Equipage
    leather - Knize Ten / Chanel Cuir De Russie / Bandit / Rien / Cuiron and several others...
    oudh - Al Oudh / Aoud Cuir D'Arabie

    where are incense, amber and vetiver?
    Last edited by alfarom; 27th April 2014 at 10:22 PM.


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  12. #12

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    I think they should be in there as well. I took the classifications from a classic wheel and added the ozone, laundry and oudh. I have added those too into the diagram.
    Last edited by mumsy; 27th April 2014 at 11:25 PM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Well, if we talk about real epitomes the following are qualified examples:
    aldehyde - Chanel N.5
    ozonic - Acqua di Gio'
    laundry fresh - Paco Rabanne Pour Homme
    modern/metallic - ELDO Secretions Magnifiques
    citrus - Aqua Allegoria Lemon Fresca
    fruity - Multiple Rouge Humieki&Graef
    floral - Ysatis
    lavender - English Lavender
    fougere - Drakkar Noir
    herbaceous - Trussardi Action
    green - TSAR
    chypre - Mitsouko
    conifer - Polo
    gourmand/sweet - Thierry Mugler Angel
    oriental - Habit Rouge Guerlain
    spicy - Shiseido Basala
    woody - Dsquared2 He wood
    musk - Musc Acampora
    tobacco - Aramis Havana
    leather - Cuiron
    oudh - Black Aoud Montale
    incense - Avignon
    amber - Mona di Orio
    vetiver - Guerlain Vetiver

  14. #14
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    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    I am relatively new to this, so I am only adding in what I have personally smelled and loved. By the way, this sort of thing is invaluable for someone like me - thank you all very much. Mr. Reasonable - I am going to take your list and print it off for future reference, because we seem to have similar tastes and it would be good to have a guide for future testing! Anyway, from what I've tried or owned myself, here is my list (with some added classifications in bold and underline):

    aldehyde - Baghari, Noontide Petals
    ozonic - Sel Marin
    laundry fresh - Balmain Ivoire (new version)
    modern/metallic - CdG Woman 2
    citrus - Cedrat Enivrant, L'Occitane Verveine
    fruity - Blackberry & Bay, Phylosykos
    floral - Une Fleur de Cassie
    lavender - Gris Clair
    fougere - Jicky
    herbaceous - Etro Palais Jamais
    green - No. 19, Le Temps d'Une Fete, Chamade
    chypre - Mitsouko (classic), 31 Rue Cambon (modern)
    conifer - La Fille En Anguilles
    gourmand/sweet - L'Heure Bleue (classic), Kiss me Tender & Aomassai (modern)
    oriental - Shalimar
    spicy - Eau Lente, Coco
    woody - Bois des Iles (sandalwood), Tam Dao EDT (cedar)
    musk - Musc Khoublai Khan (dirty musk), HdP 1826 (clean white musk)
    tobacco - Back to Black, Tobacco Vanille
    leather - Cuir de Russie (classic), Cuir Pleine Fleur (modern)
    oudh - Incense Oud
    incense - Incense Rose, Avignon
    amber - Ambre Sultan (reference), Ambre Russe (heavy weight), Ambre 114 (mid weight)
    vetiver - Shaal Nur, Timbuktu
    Tea - Bvlgari Au Te Rouge
    Leather animalic - Rien
    Hay/Cut grass - Chergui (warm hay), Vie de Chateau Intense (cut grass and hay)
    Rubber - Bvlgari Black
    Patchouli - Coromandel, Borneo
    Vanilla -
    Coffee - Coze
    Rose - Une Rose Chypree (rose chypre), Portrait of a Lady (patch rose)
    Going to bed - Parfum Sacre
    Going to the beach - Eau des Merveilles
    Animalic - L'Ombre Fauve
    Lit tobacco - Encens Flamboyant
    Dandy - HdP 1876
    Iris - Dior Homme Intense
    Last edited by ClaireV; 28th April 2014 at 10:52 AM. Reason: Rien is not a chypre, duh on me....

  15. #15

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Loving the new categories. Definitely should have done a separate Rose.

    We're going to have to make a smelly family tree or wheel with sub categories of some sort. Food for thought. The scent wheels are woefully inadequate.

  16. #16

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Der Rosenpatchz™ may be my one and only contribution to the field of perfume studies . . . I hope it is adopted by generations to come

    And very happy to hear we have some faves in common, Claire!
    “Anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge.'”
    ― Isaac Asimov

  17. #17

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Hey mumsy. Hi everyone. Intersting thread!

    "Best examples" ? OK, just a few;

    aldehyde - Chanel no5/Bois des Iles
    citrus - Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Sicilia - the best bar none.
    lavender - Soliflore- Caldey Island. Composition - Oxford and Cambridge
    fougere - Etat Libre D'Orange Eloge Du Traitre
    herbaceous - O'Driu Linfidele 1001
    green - Lez Nez, The Unicorn Spell
    chypre - Gres Cabochard/Estee Lauder Azuree. I prefer Cabochard.
    conifer - Blenheim Bouquet
    oriental - Shalimar.......................................... .Parfum Initial (gotcha)
    woody - Diptique Tam Dao (EDT)
    tobacco - Tabac Blond Extrait
    incense - Andy Tauer Incense Extreme
    amber - Annick Gotal Ambre Fetiche

  18. #18

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Let's see ...rather than listing all the usual, commonly-agreed upon benchmarks, I'm going with some personal favorite exemplars.

    aldehyde - Lancôme Climat, Krizia K de Krizia, Caron Infini, Gucci No1, Chanel No22, Revilllon Detchema
    laundry fresh - EL White Linen
    citrus - Chanel Eau de Cologne, Patou Eau de Patou, EL Azurée, Molyneux Quartz
    fruity - AG Eau de Charlotte, Guerlain Insolence, RL Lauren, Patou Sira des Indes
    floral - Guerlain Chamade, Patou 1000, AG Songes, RL Safari, L'Artisan Mimosa Pour Moi, Norell
    lavender - Mona di Orio Chamarré, BK A Taste of Heaven
    green - Balmain Vent Vert, Chanel No19, Gucci Envy, Capucci Yendi, EL Private Collection
    chypre - Gucci No3, La Perla original, Ungaro Diva, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Halston, original Balmain Ivoire, JM Sinan Sinan, JL Scherrer Scherrer
    gourmand/sweet - Guerlain Iris Ganache, KM Loukhoum Pour le Soir, L'Artisan Safran Troublant
    oriental - Chanel Coco, Dior Dune, EL Youth Dew
    floriental - Guerlain L'Instant, Samsara and Shalimar Parfum Initial, Dior Addict
    spicy - YSL Opium, Hôtel Costes Costes, EL Cinnabar, Les Parfums de Rosine Rose Kashmirie
    woody - Rochas Absolu, Chanel Coromandel and Bois des Iles, Roberto Cavalli Oro, Dior Dolce Vita
    musk - Ava Luxe Nude Musk and Pearl Musk, Kiehl's Original Musk
    leather - Balmain Miss Balmain, Grès Cabochard, Chanel Cuir de Russie
    oudh - Montale White Aoud and Aoud Queen Roses, By Kilian Rose Oud
    rose - Malle Une Rose , Amouage Lyric Woman, Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie, ELdO Rossy de Palma
    ...and last but not least (with thanks to Mr. Reasonable - consider it adopted!)
    Der Rosenpatchz™ - Gucci L'Arte di Gucci, Malle Portrait of A Lady, EL Knowing, JHAG Lady Vengeance, TF Noir de Noir
    Last edited by Evangeline; 28th April 2014 at 11:00 PM. Reason: tweaking for visual clarity
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  19. #19

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Aldehyde - Chanel Bois des Iles
    Ozonic - Bond No 9 Wall Street
    Laundry Fresh - Armani Code Sport
    Citrus - Anat Fritz Tzora
    Lavender - Anat Fritz Classical
    Herbaceous - Lush Dirty
    Conifer - House of Matriarch Alpha
    Gourmand/Sweet - Slumberhouse Ore
    Spicy - Mauboussin M Generation
    Woody - Gucci pour Homme/Tam Dao
    Musk - Mancera Kumkat Wood
    Tobacco - I don't like many...I do like my own Americana Rust as that's how I envisioned a tobacco fragrance. TF Tobacco Wood is decent too.
    Leather - House of Matriarch Blackbird
    Incense - CdG 2 MAN / Tom Ford Sahara Noir
    Oudh - Phoenicia Perfumes RealOud / Tom Ford Oud Wood
    Vetiver - Dior Vetiver / LesNez Turtle Vetiver BACK
    Amber - Tom Ford Amber Absolute

  20. #20
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Evangeline- Do you have Chamarré? Isn't it lovely? So sad it's d/c. Sparkling aldehydes and lavender unlike any other. I thought of using it on my list but figured no one would know it.

  21. #21

    Default Re: The truest example of each fragrance category - in your opinion

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Evangeline- Do you have Chamarré? Isn't it lovely? So sad it's d/c. Sparkling aldehydes and lavender unlike any other. I thought of using it on my list but figured no one would know it.
    Not any more, unfortunately, and I only ever had a decant, which I made last as long as possible but it now just holds the memory of the gorgeous scent. But the fact that few might know it is all the more reason to list it, imo; I get so tired of seeing the same predictable (though lovely, of course) perfumes listed over and over again, and always welcome the less obvious suggestions, even if discontinued.
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

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