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  1. #1
    Máscara Almizclado
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    Default After Eau d'Hermès: An Exploration In Hesperidic Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    I've been thoroughly exploring this particular genre over the last month, and have been so smitten by these various wearings, that I can see myself falling for one of these as a spring/fall signature scent.

    The citric/aromatic/spicy fragrance that I am searching for must follow more precisely the lineage of Eau D'Hermès. I've explored Ellena's obsession for this genre from Déclaration by Carter, to his most recent Terre Hermès Eau Très Fraiche. Another one that I would add to this list, which I already own would be YSL Pour Homme.

    As Eau D'Hermès is the reference, and I do agree that it's a masterpiece, I have a sent memory attributed to it for my Grandmother, who probably wore it as her signature scent. At this time, Déclaration is the closest approximation that I have found that is FB worthy, while also appreciating that the mustiness of the original Hermès, has been toned down into a slightly more masculine offering by Cartier.

    The notes usually attributed to this type of scent is cardamon/carraway/cumin/nutmeg, supported by hesperidic bitter citruses such as petitgrain/verbena/neroli/orange blossom.

    Surprisingly though, a simple search of these notes isn't sufficient, as there's often a "je ne sais quoi", which attributes for this type of "dirtiness", depending on the note/accord being properly highlighted. Other times, these notes aren't present in the note breakdown and/or are subtlety not included as to not scare away any interest, as is often the case with the infamous "phantom" cumin.

    Long story short ~ this genre isn't the easiest to seek out for. So I'd like to enlist some help from you guys here;

    Can you enlighten me towards fragrances of this genre that are often derided, but overlooked for their unique qualities?

    Are there any notes that I may have overlooked, that may attribute to this genre?

    Any other aficionado's of this type of "dirty" elegant cologne?
    Last edited by Arij; 10th May 2014 at 07:12 PM.
    Currently wearing: Philosykos by Diptyque

  2. #2

    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Two come to mind:

    L'Autre by Diptyque

    and

    Citrus Paradisi by Czech and Speake (may not be very spicy, but certainly dirty and aromatic)
    Currently wearing: Dia Man by Amouage

  3. #3
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Languid by Boadicea The Victorious
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    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve other individuals' acknowledgement or respect.

  4. #4
    DuNezDeBuzier's Avatar
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    You might want to get your nose on some Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir

    And, albeit a bit further away from the EdH/Declaration theme, Cuba and Havana.
    Simplex Sigillum Veri
    Currently wearing: Homme de Grès by Grès

  5. #5
    Dependent Rev320's Avatar
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Four I would recommend but might not fall into your category

    Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur
    Guerlain Jicky
    MFK Absolue Pour le Soir
    Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur
    Ointment and perfume rejoice the heart: so doth the sweetness of a man's friend by hearty counsel. Proverbs 27:9 KJV

  6. #6

    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Dirty English.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Perhaps Eau de Guerlain (1974)?
    Currently wearing: Cuoio by Odori

  8. #8

    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    I like this genre too. However, I think Eau d'Hermes and Declaration are hard to beat. You may have tried another variation on the theme, Bigarade Concentree. Zizonia by Penhaligons is another worth a sniff, although I thought it was a bit of a damp squib. Rochas Moustache is a dirty citrus with less emphasis on the spice.
    He boiled for our sins.

  9. #9

    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Piper Nigrum by Villoresi is the Hiroshima of citrus ans crazy spices.
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  10. #10
    Basenotes Junkie saminlondon's Avatar
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    They're not in the same fresh, transparent mould as Eau d'Hermes and Déclaration, but have you tried Roja Dove's Nuwa and Diaghilev, both of which have a recognisable cumin note? They're not exactly cheap, that's the only drawback. Femme de Rochas, while not strictly speaking a masculine, could be pulled off by a guy and is loaded with very sensual cumin.

  11. #11

    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    The new Eau d'epices might work.

    Also incense extreme.
    Hypocrites will always be a thorn in my back....and my middle finger will always be the best remedy.....

  12. #12

    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Bigarade Concentree by JC Ellena - definitely!) dirty citrusy hay

  13. #13

    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    I am trying l'Artisan's Al Oudh today and is pretty fantastic. Cumin, spices, civet etc, but comforting at the same time. Pretty wearable after the opening too.
    Well, it's cheaper than therapy... edit: No it's not...

  14. #14

    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    +1 Bigarade Concentree and Zizonia.

  15. #15

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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    You might like Issey Miyake Intense. Smoke and and spices surround the original Issey in this one, and I find it's a bit on the dark side, definitely 'dirty' IMO.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Amouage- Epic Man.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    For me, lots of the Bond fragrances have the dirty, sweaty cumin like drydown. I don't recall the names (I think the Bond naming scheme is awful) but the amber was definitely one of them.

    rick

  18. #18
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    ...................................
    Last edited by Dimitrios; 8th May 2014 at 05:48 AM. Reason: ignorance

  19. #19
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Quote Originally Posted by Rev320 View Post
    MFK Absolue Pour le Soir
    plus 1

  20. #20

    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Perhaps also Givenchy Gentleman, as well as Versace l'Homme.

  21. #21
    Basenotes Institution sjg3839's Avatar
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir is a good one.
    Quote Originally Posted by DuNezDeBuzier View Post
    You might want to get your nose on some Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir

    And, albeit a bit further away from the EdH/Declaration theme, Cuba and Havana.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Phileas by Nina Ricci is a good one. Discontinued but still available.

    Moustache by Rochas (EDT or Concetree)
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

    #BBOG!

  23. #23
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines


  24. #24
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Many good ones have already been mentioned, but I would second a vote for Jicky and Musc Ravageur.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Thanks for all of the replies! As usual, some are spot on with the recommendations and/or offered alternatives on the theme...

    Quote Originally Posted by JiveHippo View Post
    L'Autre by Diptyque and Citrus Paradisi by Czech and Speake
    L'Autre is a great suggestion, but I was told it's only offered as an exclusive at their boutique in France. Can anyone confirm or deny this claim?

    Citrus Paradisi & Cuba seem really interesting and will allow me to explore this house a little further.

    Quote Originally Posted by DuNezDeBuzier View Post
    Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir
    Why kill me with discontinuations?!?! Fraîcheur Cuir is a great suggestion, but I haven't found it in the wholesale district in my area, so I'll have to search further.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rev320 View Post
    Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur
    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Perhaps Eau de Guerlain (1974)?
    Whenever I go to the Guerlain boutique, I usually overlook these two. I have sampled MdM a few times, but under different circumstances. Now that I'm seeking this type out, I will definitely come back here with my impressions on these two scents.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marais View Post
    Rochas Moustache is a dirty citrus with less emphasis on the spice.
    Double damn!! Great suggestion, but so hard to find...

    Quote Originally Posted by tdwctdwc View Post
    The new Eau d'epices might work.
    This seems like a great alternative for cooler weather.

    Quote Originally Posted by mgrigoriev View Post
    Bigarade Concentree by JC Ellena - definitely!) dirty citrusy hay
    Bigarade Concentree is a great scent & spot on for the OP, but I found that it leaned a little too much towards the citrus.

    I tried Eau du Sud by Annick Goutal, which is a citrus aromatic, a little closer to Dior ES & YSL PH. It's 90% what I'm looking for with great verbena/lime, while the oakmoss/mint/basil replaces the usual spices. A wonderful scent, that's a great alternative for those who are interested in this genre, but fear anything remotely close to body odor.

    While searching the various threads on Déclaration, I noticed that S.T. Dupont Pour Homme is frequently mentioned, although it's spiciness tends to trail off pretty quickly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Marais View Post
    I like this genre too. However, I think Eau d'Hermes and Declaration are hard to beat.
    I think you're right, as this is probably a case of being best served, by what you first intended.

    I'm also realizing that the birch note, can't be neglected in it's effectiveness in the composition of both Eau D'Hermès & Déclaration, making them unique in their genre.

    The various suggestions are enlightening though to say the least, so I'd love to hear more...
    Last edited by Arij; 7th May 2014 at 06:59 PM.
    Currently wearing: Philosykos by Diptyque

  26. #26

    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Puig: Quorum. A cheap but quality option worth checking out. spicy with a dirty feel from the leather base

  27. #27
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Perhaps Creed Orange Spice?

  28. #28
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    I agree with JiveHipp's rec's and I'll add another: Serge Noire by Serge Lutens
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

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  29. #29
    Máscara Almizclado
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Continuing on the citrus side of the equation, I'm surprised the classic stalwart Chanel Pour Monsieur wasn't mentioned. It has all the hallmark notes I've been looking for, from the verbena/petitgrain/neroli & cardmon/ginger/corriander. Unfortunately & uncharacteristic of Chanel, having tried this fragrance this evening, it's IMHO much too fleeting (à la cologne) for my liking.

    The spicy cardamon I so seek, was beautifully present in the opening, but dissipates in the background in 30 minutes. I would have thought that reforms in oakmoss, would have accentuated the spice in the composition, but instead the powdery peony takes center stage.

    After side by side comparisons to today's Eau du Sud (which wins the battle), the oakmoss in the Goutal adds more skank, than anything found in CPM. Which makes me believe that CPM must have been majestic in the past.

    Overall, I quite appreciate Pour Monsieur nevertheless, it'd be great in the summer when those noted prior in this thread seem too much. I'd also suggest this one to those following this thread, wanting to steer clear of the "Indian buffet", while retaining all the class.
    Currently wearing: Philosykos by Diptyque

  30. #30
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    Default Re: "Dirty" Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Lots of great fragrances being mentioned here. One that is almost in this class is Tiffany for Men. The nutmeg dirties the citrus and the chypre just perfectly, which means barely. I think I need to wear that again here soon.

    When you mention Indian buffet, I had to think of TDC Oriental Lounge, which uses that curry leaf stuff (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curry_Tree) - it definitely resembles cardamom. Interesting effect, and the whole thing ends up as a kind of cool amber.

    There was some other scent I sniffed recently that really answers the spicy thing, but for the life of me, I can't remember it. I'll definitely post if I can think of it.
    * * * *

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