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  1. #1

    Default Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Hello everyone, I’m new here and I need your help. I must say that I’m quite ignorant in describing fragrances but I will try to picture what I’m looking for.

    I need a summer fragrance that is closer to the (Bitter) Cirtus / Spicy / Woody Earthy group. I also would like something that captures the scents of the typical Italian/Mediterranean summer.

    To picture this imagine dry soil under extreme heat (Tuscany-like), lots of citruses (not flowery but Bitter/Blood Oranges or Mandarins or even Lemons), some of them are already on the ground and they blend with something typical spicy of the area pepper, oregano or something else that stays on the base, a dry/wet woody note exists somewhere too and probably a splash of rain to give some freshness or at least the sea is not that far away so there is some breeze too.

    I don’t want typical aquatic “Capri” yacht fragrances or something too elegant. I want to lean towards more dirty/edgy casual challenging natural scents for someone in his 30s. I think that I have probably described Terre d'Hermès but I have only tested once and it is a bit expensive for my current budget.

    So there are some limitationss
    -Designers only, I can’t test or afford anything niche
    -Budget is maximum €60 for 100ml
    -Great longevity (for citrus) and more than average silage (no close to the skin scents)
    -It could be linear minimal or boring as long as keeps the right notes

    I have already done some research and I can find/test these:

    Ferragamo Tuscan Soul (Poor Silage?)
    Lalique White (Poor Citrus?)
    Cartier Declaration (Too Refined?)
    Moschino Friends
    Bonus: Lalique Encre Noire (no citrus, no summer but rainy and woody)

    Finally I should say that I really liked most of the Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo series since it had some of the elements I am looking for. Generally I’m looking a modern day pure summer Italian-style fragrance, so please no discontinued fragrances unless they are found for cheap online.

    Sorry for the extremely long question but I tried to explain somehow the scent I have in mind! I hope that you could help.
    Last edited by vsls; 12th May 2014 at 11:29 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Welcome!

    If you have a Lush store nearby, I suggest you try Dirty. It comes in body spray, and it's quite cheap. it is a very fresh scent, with a minty note, but with lots of herbs underneath and a certain salty-sandy feel underneath. It is probably somewhat fresher than what you're looking for, but it definitely recalls the beach.

    cacio

  3. #3

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    I would suggest Neroli Portofino.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Welcome!

    If you have a Lush store nearby, I suggest you try Dirty. It comes in body spray, and it's quite cheap. it is a very fresh scent, with a minty note, but with lots of herbs underneath and a certain salty-sandy feel underneath. It is probably somewhat fresher than what you're looking for, but it definitely recalls the beach.

    cacio
    Thanks cacio for the suggestion but unfortunately there is no Lush stores here so I can't try this one. I don't mind if there is something a bit more fresher than what I describe, it could be easily be ginger too, but I don't want to go towards something extremely fresh and close to the beach. Let's say I need to stay at the hill/mountain that looks over the sea!

  5. #5

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by sjg3839 View Post
    I would suggest Neroli Portofino.
    Thanks I have already checked Neroli by the reviews but this is almost four times my budget so I can't go anywhere close to this!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Try Europe Mediterranean Breeze by Compagnia Delle Indie.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Welcome to you! I'd suggest giving Soleil De Capri and Embruns D'Essaouira by Montale a try.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
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  8. #8

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    My first thought given your criteria is Cartier Declaration. I don't think you'll find it "too refined"; it has an alluring dirtiness to it. Great composition.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    A small bottle of Terre d'Hermes EdT would be within your budget and it seems to meet your criteria nicely.

    Also within your budget - Annick Goutal Hadrien Absolu - it has some of the most natural smelling lemons out there, on par with Profumum Roma Acqua Viva. For a citrus type fragrance, it also lasts a fairly long time, which is rare in this category.

    Cartier Declaration also seems to be fitting your needs, I'm not sure what you mean by "too refined" though. You can wear this one with shorts and a t-shirt just fine - I don't find it stuffy at all.

    Within your budget and very cool summery vibe, but perhaps a little more on the "clean" site rather than "dirty" you desire - Guerlain L'Homme L'Eau Boisée. It has citrus, it has woody vetiver, it has "a splash of rain" that give it wetness, and it's very refreshing and aromatic at the same time. And with the exchange rate, I'm guessing you can probably buy two bottles of it within your budget.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    I think Terralba would suit you.
    Current favorites_____Black Tourmaline_____Gucci Pour Homme II_____Memoir Man_____Tuscan Leather______Montale Aoud and Pine_____Sel Marin_____Invasion Barbare_____Tonka Imperial____Dior Homme Intense_____L'Humaniste____Santal 33_____Bois d'Argent_____Nio_____MFK Oud_____Lumiere Noire_____Bois d'Encens_____Cuir Ottoman

  11. #11

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Paloma Picasso is dirty and yet fresh enough to fit this. Terre d'Hermes is also a splendid option.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Creed Erolfa.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Perhaps also:

    Cerutti 1881 and its flanker Amber- two different variations on a citrus-chypre, the first more focused on fougere and freshness, the second more animalic and leathery, also a bit sweeter due to its main ambery tone
    Versace l'Homme and Caractere by Daniel Hechter- two dark, leathery fougere scents with just enough citrus and herbaceous notes to be appropriate for summer
    Mugler Cologne- both clean and soapy, but also with some underlying warmer, less EDC or citrus-based notes at a time, thus the interesting alternation between extreme notes is highly variable in this one

  14. #14
    Super Member LJD's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Perhaps you might like

    Live-Jazz-1.6.jpg

    Seems to fit most of your description & criteria.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    The Creed and the Tom Ford suggested above don't fit the OP's requirements in terms of price.

    +1 Guerlain Homme L'Eau Boisee
    YSL L'Homme Libre Cologne Toniq
    John Varvatos Artisan
    Givenchy Very Irresistible Fresh Attitude

  16. #16
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    l think you may like Annick Goutal's Ninfeo Mio, & almost definitely Eau de Sud.
    Last edited by teardrop; 12th May 2014 at 07:37 PM.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Hermès Concentré d'Orange Verte comes to mind. Not sure if it has the desired freshness or sillage.
    Behemoth cut a slice of pineapple, salted it, peppered it, ate it, and then tossed off a second glass of alcohol so dashingly that everyone applauded.

  18. #18
    Dependent Arij's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    I started a thread last week, that includes my exploration into the genealogy following Eau D'Hermès.

    After Eau d'Hermès: An Exploration In Hesperidic Aromatic Spicy Masculines

    Some of the fragrances reviewed...

    Best In Show:
    Eau D'Hermès
    Déclaration by Cartier
    Bigarade concentrée by Frédéric Malle

    Best Herbal/Oakmoss:
    Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme
    Eau du Sud by Annick Goutal
    Coriolan de Guerlain

    Best Kölnisch Wasser:
    Eau de Guerlain
    Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma
    Chanel Pour Monsieur

    Honorable Mentions:
    Terre D'Hermès
    Eau Sauvage by Dior
    Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain
    Armani Eau Pour Homme

    Best Perfumers:
    Edmond Roudnitska
    Jean-Claude Ellena
    Bertrand Duchafour

  19. #19
    vita odorifera
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Romeo Gigli Uomo is a good contender, IMO. If one wants it more spicy then Romeo Gigli Sud Est could be looked into.
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

    #BBOG!

  20. #20

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    First of all I would like to thank each one of you for the suggestions and for your kind participation!

    Quote Originally Posted by LivelyupURself View Post
    Try Europe Mediterranean Breeze by Compagnia Delle Indie.
    This is extremely cheap as I've seen online but I couldn't spot any distributor here. I could possibly buy it blind so if there is a possibility to find it too!

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    Welcome to you! I'd suggest giving Soleil De Capri and Embruns D'Essaouira by Montale a try.
    Thanks! Unfortunately I can't find Montale in my area and probably they are over my budget. They seem interesting on paper.

    Quote Originally Posted by onethinline View Post
    My first thought given your criteria is Cartier Declaration. I don't think you'll find it "too refined"; it has an alluring dirtiness to it. Great composition.
    That's great! It is one of the easiest EDT that I can try/buy. I'm a bit afraid of the prominent cumin as some reviewers mention since I prefer the citrus. Of course I would have to check on my skin.

    Quote Originally Posted by remik View Post
    A small bottle of Terre d'Hermes EdT would be within your budget and it seems to meet your criteria nicely.

    Also within your budget - Annick Goutal Hadrien Absolu

    Cartier Declaration also seems to be fitting your needs,

    Within your budget - Guerlain L'Homme L'Eau Boisée.
    Certainly I don't exclude TdH EdT if that fits exactly my "idea" only I should limit myself to the 50ml version that costs roughly €60
    I've read excellent reviews on Annick Goutal series and especially Eau du Sud that could fit my bill but they cost around €100-120 through the official site. No retailers close to me either.
    About Declaration I mean that I need it for everyday casual use, just like you described with jeans and a t-shirt nothing formal at all.
    I could easily find Guerlain Homme but not the L'Eau Boisée version, do they bear any similarities so I could do a blind buy?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jridgen View Post
    I think Terralba would suit you.
    This looks like another extremely interesting but way out of my budget fragrance!

    Quote Originally Posted by Zgb View Post
    Paloma Picasso is dirty and yet fresh enough to fit this. Terre d'Hermes is also a splendid option.
    I believe that you are referring to Minotaure right? I could easily find that, never tried it! Do you feel that it is closer to my idea than TdH?

    Quote Originally Posted by Oslo-Fjord View Post
    Creed Erolfa.
    Sorry another niche for my budget!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Perhaps also:

    Cerutti 1881 and its flanker Amber
    Versace l'Homme and Caractere by Daniel Hechter
    Mugler Cologne
    Great choices! I used to wear CerrutiSi when it was first released, never lasted on me. Probably the original 1881 could be another thing, I always avoided it because I thought that it was too "office inoffensive" scent. I will give it a try and Amber if it is available around.
    I always have a love/hate relationship with Versace. I want to like it but the I feel it somehow dated or "not-me". But I believe that I'm searching for a late 90s early 00s response to Homme since it is an epitome of Italian style. I am still keeping it as a possible candidate. I can't find Hechter here though.
    Mugler never lasted on me, maximum 2hrs and poor silage too.

    Quote Originally Posted by LJD View Post
    Perhaps you might like

    Live-Jazz-1.6.jpg

    Seems to fit most of your description & criteria.
    Isn't it too minty? Of course I may be wrong since last time I've tested was 6-7 years ago. I could easily test it too!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sylver View Post
    The Creed and the Tom Ford suggested above don't fit the OP's requirements in terms of price.

    +1 Guerlain Homme L'Eau Boisee
    YSL L'Homme Libre Cologne Toniq
    John Varvatos Artisan
    Givenchy Very Irresistible Fresh Attitude
    Interesting options these. I forgot to mention that I already had Varvatos Artisan, it fits probably somehow my demands but I just need it a bit less floral. The only reason that I don't buy it again is that lasts 1-2 hrs maximum on me. I could go with a dirtier "powerhouse" 8h+ version of Artisan!
    I must "study" more about Givenchy, another easily obtained bottle and I have to look if YSL Cologne exists here, I could easily find EDT though.

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    l think you may like Annick Goutal's Ninfeo Mio, & almost definitely Eau de Sud.
    Thanks but as I mentioned above it is over my budget. I don't know if there is any shop in Europe that has lower prices.

    Quote Originally Posted by zatarain View Post
    Hermès Concentré d'Orange Verte comes to mind. Not sure if it has the desired freshness or sillage.
    I'm afraid it would poor on me judging by other colognes I've tried. I will try it though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Arij View Post
    I started a thread last week, that includes my exploration into the genealogy following Eau D'Hermès.
    Thanks Arij! I have already read your thread it is so interesting and close to my research. I just opened mine because I didn't want to overtake that great discussion there!
    Judging by your experience do you believe that Declaration is closer to my description or TdH? Is there any other that I must try in my limited budget? For example YSL PH, Chanel Pour Monsieur (50ml), Eau Sauvage (50ml) and Armani Eau are probably those that I could afford from this list.

    Quote Originally Posted by perfaddict View Post
    Romeo Gigli Uomo is a good contender, IMO. If one wants it more spicy then Romeo Gigli Sud Est could be looked into.
    I believe that both of Gigli's fragrances could be instant buys from what I read but it's almost impossible to find them. Only the newer Man exists here. Sud Est could be an ideal candidate if it wasn't discontinued too.
    Last edited by vsls; 12th May 2014 at 11:55 PM.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    I'm quite interested to see what you choose, because it seems from your post that we share very, very similar tastes. After I read your post and responded I went directly and sprayed on some CDI Brezza Mediterranea and it meets a lot of your criteria but doesn't have the woody note, which would be a lovely addition. I'm going to try some of the others suggested here, I'm just afraid many have too much citrus and will lean toward Light Blue territory. Good luck!

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by vsls View Post
    Certainly I don't exclude TdH EdT if that fits exactly my "idea" only I should limit myself to the 50ml version that costs roughly €60
    I've read excellent reviews on Annick Goutal series and especially Eau du Sud that could fit my bill but they cost around €100-120 through the official site. No retailers close to me either.
    About Declaration I mean that I need it for everyday casual use, just like you described with jeans and a t-shirt nothing formal at all.
    I could easily find Guerlain Homme but not the L'Eau Boisée version, do they bear any similarities so I could do a blind buy?
    Don't limit yourself only to "official sites" from these fragrance manufacturers - you can often buy these at half the full retail price through other fragrance sites. Annick Goutal especially - you can find it at least in the US at half price. Guerlain L'Eau Boisée - it's pretty similar to the regular Homme, though vetiver is stronger in this one (very nice and aromatic kind), and overall I prefer Boisée to Homme as more unique and more refreshing, summery scent. A bit of searching online will no doubt point you to a few places that carry it in your country - it's still in production so it's not exactly difficult to find (and at great prices, too - I'm guessing about €30 if the prices are anything like in the US). This one is completely blind-buy worthy, it's difficult not to like, it's very easy to wear.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by vsls View Post
    I need a summer fragrance that is closer to the (Bitter) Cirtus / Spicy / Woody Earthy group. I also would like something that captures the scents of the typical Italian/Mediterranean summer.

    To picture this imagine dry soil under extreme heat (Tuscany-like), lots of citruses (not flowery but Bitter/Blood Oranges or Mandarins or even Lemons), some of them are already on the ground and they blend with something typical spicy of the area pepper, oregano or something else that stays on the base, a dry/wet woody note exists somewhere too and probably a splash of rain to give some freshness or at least the sea is not that far away so there is some breeze too.

    I don’t want typical aquatic “Capri” yacht fragrances or something too elegant. I want to lean towards more dirty/edgy casual challenging natural scents for someone in his 30s. I think that I have probably described Terre d'Hermès but I have only tested once and it is a bit expensive for my current budget.

    So there are some limitationss
    -Designers only, I can’t test or afford anything niche
    -Budget is maximum €60 for 100ml
    -Great longevity (for citrus) and more than average silage (no close to the skin scents)
    -It could be linear minimal or boring as long as keeps the right notes

    I have already done some research and I can find/test these:

    Ferragamo Tuscan Soul (Poor Silage?)
    Lalique White (Poor Citrus?)
    Cartier Declaration (Too Refined?)
    Moschino Friends
    Bonus: Lalique Encre Noire (no citrus, no summer but rainy and woody)

    Generally I’m looking a modern day pure summer Italian-style fragrance,
    Trust me, from what everything you've just written above I'm just gonna say one fragrance:

    Azzaro pour Homme

    I know a lot of people may look down on it or call it "old" or "cheap". Believe me, this has everything for your budget (much less than your budget even)

    Dry, earthy, herbal, a little dirty, very Italian, Mediterranean, very masculine. Classic

    I also recommend what Ken_Russel said above with Cerruti 1881 that's also very good.

    If you had just a little more of bigger budget I would definitely recommend to you (niche fragrance) Diptyque - L'Eau Trios, that one was inspired by the smell of the mountains of Northern Greece (specifically area around Mount Athos)! I checked on their website they charge €85 for 100ml. But I don't know if they have a store in Greece (I checked the French website).

    Anyway I was also going to say Eau Sauvage (citrus and dirty jasmine) but you asked for Italian so from me I definitely suggest Azzaro pour Homme as first choice and Cerruti 1881 as second choice. Both are great for your budget and even I think they smell more expensive than their actual price.

    Good luck!
    Last edited by tempest moon; 13th May 2014 at 12:31 AM.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    +1for Azzaro pour Homme and also think that Declaration would be a great fit. Another thought--Antaeus by Chanel--wrestling with giants is a sweaty business. Finally, of the Goutals, I would say Nuits d'Hadrien. Would give Terre d'Hermes a miss.

  25. #25
    Super Member LJD's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by vsls View Post

    Live-Jazz-1.6.jpg

    Isn't it too minty? Of course I may be wrong since last time I've tested was 6-7 years ago. I could easily test it too!
    To my nose, it's not too minty. I personally don't consider it a mint fragrance per se...obviously, can`t deny the presence of mint, but it's in the top notes...just enough to boost the refreshing effect. To me, it's more like a citrus-herbal with a nice ambery-woody dry-down. This fragrance is really refreshing, can take the hottest temps...and is different from the bunch of common fresh fragrances. Can be found at great price too.

    Since you can test it, it's worth a try IMO...

    Regards,
    LJD

  26. #26

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by LivelyupURself View Post
    I'm quite interested to see what you choose, because it seems from your post that we share very, very similar tastes.
    It's great that there someone else that shares this taste good to know! I'm really intrigued to Breeze and I can find it online extremely cheap (around €10) so I could give it a try. I think though the longevity and silage could be poor since it's an EDC.

    Quote Originally Posted by remik View Post
    Don't limit yourself only to "official sites" from these fragrance manufacturers - you can often buy these at half the full retail price through other fragrance sites. Annick Goutal especially - you can find it at least in the US at half price....
    I have seen some EU sites too and the prices are similar to the official ones, I don't know about US shops since I think that the shipping cost is a noway. Also I prefer to test the fragrance and I don't really go through the hustle of ordering samples etc. Thanks for the heads up though! I will go and check Guerlain Homme and since the L'Eau Boisée has more vetiver this looks promising too!

    Quote Originally Posted by tempest moon View Post
    Trust me, from what everything you've just written above I'm just gonna say one fragrance:

    Azzaro pour Homme

    I also recommend what Ken_Russel said above with Cerruti 1881 that's also very good.

    If you had just a little more of bigger budget I would definitely recommend to you (niche fragrance) Diptyque - L'Eau Trios

    Anyway I was also going to say Eau Sauvage (citrus and dirty jasmine)
    To be honest I was expecting an Azzaro PH/Aramis Tuscany suggestion here! I have tried it some years ago but I didn't buy it since I was afraid that it was too dated. It was also and probably still is a massive hit in Greece. Of course I don't have problem to wear powerhouse fragrances, or older. I just wanted probably something more significant and diverse. I don't know if it fits the bid yet but I will definitely check Azzaro again. I see that Cerruti goes well too!
    I have already smelled L'Eau Trois and unfortunately I find it too much monastery/church for me. It is not exotic at all for us!
    Does Eau Sauvage fit the bill from French perspective? I always felt that has poor longevity. I don't mind if the nose or manufacturer is Italian. I have already 3 French frags in my shortlist!

    Quote Originally Posted by Oviatt View Post
    +1for Azzaro pour Homme and also think that Declaration would be a great fit. Another thought--Antaeus by Chanel--wrestling with giants is a sweaty business. Finally, of the Goutals, I would say Nuits d'Hadrien. Would give Terre d'Hermes a miss.
    Interesting, another Azzaro and another Declaration then! It's getting tough! I don't know about Antaeus, I have never thought it as a summer fragrance. I hate that Goutal has so many options! Just out of curiosity could you explain why TdH is a miss?

    Quote Originally Posted by LJD View Post
    To my nose, it's not too minty. I personally don't consider it a mint fragrance per se...
    Thanks LJD that was really helpful! Luckily Live Jazz is one of the easiest to test so I will give it a try ASAP. I like that kind of mint that doesn't cloy the rest. I hope it won't be extremely fresh and could give me that earthy feeling!

  27. #27
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    lt's also possible to find Goutals for very reasonable prices on ebay...
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Check Strawberrynet for some excellent pricing on Annick Goutal. I found this for you, a massive 100ml bottle of Eau de Hadrien for 59 euros! http://eu.strawberrynet.com/cologne/.../59253/#DETAIL

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Also, they have Eau de Guerlain for 45 euros for 100ml. I have that, and it is excellent. Very lemony, with a mossy dry drown. Luca Turin says it is the very best citrus cologne ever made (don't know about that, but the price is good, and be ready to reapply every two hours)

  30. #30

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    lt's also possible to find Goutals for very reasonable prices on ebay...
    Quote Originally Posted by ClaireV View Post
    Check Strawberrynet for some excellent pricing on Annick Goutal. I found this for you, a massive 100ml bottle of Eau de Hadrien for 59 euros!
    Thanks both for the heads up. I will check them but since I haven't tested any of Goutal's fragrances I'm still a bit hesitated. I've seen some samples going around 5-6 euros but since I'm on a limited budget I would rather go for a full bottle of something I could test nearby. There are some shops that carry Goutal in Greece but they are not close to my city.
    Quote Originally Posted by ClaireV View Post
    Also, they have Eau de Guerlain for 45 euros for 100ml. I have that, and it is excellent. Very lemony, with a mossy dry drown. Luca Turin says it is the very best citrus cologne ever made (don't know about that, but the price is good, and be ready to reapply every two hours)
    Since this was Ellena's inspiration for Declaration I did some research and I've seen that Eau de Guerlain has soft silage too. I imagine that this is a pure classic masterfully crafted fragrance but it seems to be far from the "powerhouse" beast that I'm searching!
    Last edited by vsls; 13th May 2014 at 04:01 PM.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Also another vote for Live Jazz by Yves-Saint Laurent to me it's like being in a vegetable garden (mint, herbs, some fruit... everything!). It's perfect for summer in my opinion!

    Also one which no one has yet mentioned...

    Moschino - Uomo? It's a herbal warm floral, very Italian and different IMO
    Last edited by tempest moon; 13th May 2014 at 05:19 PM.

  32. #32
    Super Member LJD's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    After reading your possible interest for Dior Eau Sauvage (and its performance concern) & Azzaro Pour Homme, I recommend you sample these if possible :

    Eau Sauvage Extreme.jpg

    Azzaro PH L'Eau.jpg

    Dior ESE will give you most of the original DNA...with better performance.

    Azzaro PH L'Eau, IMHO, is a much better scent than the original current formulation...and a much better summer scent.

    Regards,
    LJD

  33. #33

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Eau d'Hermes

    for swap/sale:





  34. #34

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by tempest moon View Post
    Also another vote for Live Jazz by Yves-Saint Laurent to me it's like being in a vegetable garden (mint, herbs, some fruit... everything!). It's perfect for summer in my opinion!

    Also one which no one has yet mentioned...

    Moschino - Uomo? It's a herbal warm floral, very Italian and different IMO
    I see that Live Jazz has quite some vibe here! I don't know if it could give me some wood/earth feeeling too but I will have to try it nevertheless! Uomo? is not a bad frag for me but I feel that it is too sweet/floral for what I am looking now. Probably Moschino Friends is closer to my needs but I have only read negative reviews so far.

    Quote Originally Posted by LJD View Post
    After reading your possible interest for Dior Eau Sauvage (and its performance concern) & Azzaro Pour Homme, I recommend you sample these if possible :

    Eau Sauvage Extreme.jpg

    Azzaro PH L'Eau.jpg

    Dior ESE will give you most of the original DNA...with better performance.

    Azzaro PH L'Eau, IMHO, is a much better scent than the original current formulation...and a much better summer scent.

    Regards,
    LJD
    I don't really exclude Eau Sauvage I just hope that I'm not going far away in the notes spectrum from my initial thoughts! The original version has always a frag that I respect but I was afraid that it won't fit me. I have only tested Eau Sauvage Parfum which was interesting but not so close to my idea. The Extreme lists Rosemary and Basil which are so Italian scents so I should find out! Probably I will end up testing all the Azzaro PH line since everybody still loves it!

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Eau d'Hermes
    Thanks I will keep that as another vote for the classic!

  35. #35

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    I agree with the previous suggestions of YSL Pour Homme (not the current stuff in the square black bottle, you can still get the original red topped bottles at discounters) and 1881 Men.


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  36. #36

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Thanks andym72 I hope that I could find something before the reformulation.
    Speaking of reformulated frags. Does anyone believe that Azzarro PH, Versace L'Homme or even Declaration remain faithful to the original scent, I have never tried the originals so for me there will be no real difference, I just need it in order to judge the reviews I'm reading!

  37. #37

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    I'm gonna go for Guerlain Homme L'Eau Boisee as others above have. It's Brilliant.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Thanks jimmysmellworld, I'm still a bit curious if L'Eau Boisee would be too "clean" for my idea but it seems definitely one must try!

    So far and after all your kind suggestions I have modified my shortlist and I have included

    Azzaro Pour Homme / L'Eau
    Cartier Declaration
    Cerruti 1881
    Hermes Terre d'Hermes
    Versace L'Homme
    YSL Live Jazz
    YSL Pour Homme

    Special mention for Eau Sauvage variations since I'm not sure if fits. Hopefully tomorrow I will go through a first round of testings so if you have any other suggestions that would be great!

  39. #39

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    I've done some further research and I've tried some of the frags mentioned above:

    Cartier Declaration unfortunately no bitter orange for me, I got cumin and again cumin and nothing more, I only sensed some orange at the last stage of dry-down. It lasted just 4,5-5hrs on me.

    Hermes Terre d'Hermes I liked it, quite a lot. TBH I couldn't figure out exactly what I smelled since it completely vanished in less than 4hrs. Probably there is no good synergy with my skin.

    Versace L'Homme Still a love/hate relationship so it is out of the game once again.

    Azzaro Pour Homme has one of the WORST openings I've ever smelled. I almost hated it immediately and I'm not that sensitive. After that awful first minutes the anise took everything under control and it became interesting, a bit dated but rounded. I would prefer less anise since it reminds me a Greek beverage! Unfortunately only bits of citruses were around. What really won me over was the dry-down, subtle and somehow fresh. 7hrs later Azzaro still exists here, not as powerful as before but you definitely know it's there, probably I could get a couple more hours of this.

    Azzaro Pour Homme L'Eau Great great opening, fresh bright and a bit soapy but luckily this soap goes away soon. While the PH has the anise working on, L'Eau uses citruses and feels somehow green, much more up-to-date feeling than PH. The dry-down is almost identical to PH but a touch lower and more green (vetiver?). Light and fresh but the maximum longevity is 6,5-7hrs, not bad for 2 sprays a fresh summer frag,

    I'm leaning towards Azzaro at the moment, but I don't really know which one of those two. I wish L'Eau structure could work as PH does. I've seen some positive and neutral reviews on L'Eau but looks like it is not a success. Am I missing something?
    Last edited by vsls; 16th May 2014 at 10:11 PM.

  40. #40

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by LJD View Post
    After reading your possible interest for Dior Eau Sauvage (and its performance concern) & Azzaro Pour Homme, I recommend you sample these if possible :

    Eau Sauvage Extreme.jpg

    Azzaro PH L'Eau.jpg

    Dior ESE will give you most of the original DNA...with better performance.

    Azzaro PH L'Eau, IMHO, is a much better scent than the original current formulation...and a much better summer scent.

    Regards,
    LJD
    I have finally tracked down Dior ESE. I liked it but it seems not exactly what I'm looking for, too much barbershop feeling. Great logevity but not my ideal candidate. Strangely I can't find anywhere to test any of pre-2005 YSL fragrances so I will miss Live Jazz from my options.

    I am really struggling between Azzaro PH and Azzaro PH L'Eau. There is no possibility to buy a vintage/intense version of PH so we are talking strictly about current formulation. So I really really enjoy the silage and the excellent dry-down of PH but I can feel fatigued by the anise in the first hour. On the other hand I enjoy the whole opening of L'Eau and the dry-down is quite similar to my nose but it lacks silage and duration also I'm not a fan of the soapy note but I could "tolerate" that part . I would really like a L'Eau Intense! Does anyone believe that L'Eau is better exclusively for hot Mediterranean summer?

  41. #41

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by vsls View Post
    I've read excellent reviews on Annick Goutal series and especially Eau du Sud that could fit my bill but they cost around €100-120 through the official site. No retailers close to me either.
    I find this fragrance VERY much reminds me of a Mediterranean summer. It's not particularly popular, which doesn't mean it's undesirable but just a bit off mainstream interest; makes for some bargains. I was able to pick up a partially used 100ml bottle off "that auction site" for more than 50% off retail. You might want to start keeping an eye out for another.

    Quote Originally Posted by vsls View Post
    Cartier Declaration unfortunately no bitter orange for me, I got cumin and again cumin and nothing more, I only sensed some orange at the last stage of dry-down. It lasted just 4,5-5hrs on me.

    Hermes Terre d'Hermes I liked it, quite a lot. TBH I couldn't figure out exactly what I smelled since it completely vanished in less than 4hrs. Probably there is no good synergy with my skin.

    Versace L'Homme Still a love/hate relationship so it is out of the game once again.
    Cartier Declaration has to be one of the more polarizing fragrances out there. I only pick up on the citrus quality when sprayed on paper. When sprayed on my skin, it's exactly as you say -- a strong cumin/caraway/coriander blast that makes me feel like I've been in an Asian Indian kitchen.

    Terre d'Hermes EdT is a nice good quality fragrance. Very pleasant, easy wearing. A little pricey for what you get, though. I'm curious about the EdP--haven't sampled it yet, heard it's a little different with slightly better longevity.

    Versace L'Homme is best had in the 1st or 2nd formulation. Forget about the current. It is NOT representative of the original, and should just be ignored. I have both 1st and 2nd, which are VERY close. The 2nd is a little more enduring and affordable. You can still find bottles of it fairly often, if you know what to look for. Gorgeous fragrance.
    Last edited by cytherian; 21st May 2014 at 03:50 PM.

  42. #42

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Quote Originally Posted by cytherian View Post
    I find this fragrance VERY much reminds me of a Mediterranean summer. It's not particularly popular, which doesn't mean it's undesirable but just a bit off mainstream interest; makes for some bargains. I was able to pick up a partially used 100ml bottle off "that auction site" for more than 50% off retail. You might want to start keeping an eye out for another.


    Cartier Declaration has to be one of the more polarizing fragrances out there. I only pick up on the citrus quality when sprayed on paper. When sprayed on my skin, it's exactly as you say -- a strong cumin/caraway/coriander blast that makes me feel like I've been in an Asian Indian kitchen.

    Terre d'Hermes EdT is a nice good quality fragrance. Very pleasant, easy wearing. A little pricey for what you get, though. I'm curious about the EdP--haven't sampled it yet, heard it's a little different with slightly better longevity.

    Versace L'Homme is best had in the 1st or 2nd formulation. Forget about the current. It is NOT representative of the original, and should just be ignored. I have both 1st and 2nd, which are VERY close. The 2nd is a little more enduring and affordable. You can still find bottles of it fairly often, if you know what to look for. Gorgeous fragrance.
    Thanks for the input! I had to exclude fragrances that I can't sample especially after these quite different results I get from those mentioned above. So for that reason L'Eau du Sud would be a miss. I also found it in a reasonable price online but I will have to wait until I can sample it somewhere.

    I must agree on Declaration that on paper was just what I was looking for but on my skin zero citrus for me either!

    I have sampled the TdH EdP it seems certainly more powerful but I didn't go any further since the price difference is quite steep for me, worth a try though.

    Yesterday I sampled Versace again, current black box formulation. Extremely powerful but such a bad scent for me. There were some notes in the 4hr of dry-down which I liked but definitely I can't stand it. It was also the only one that worked 12-14h, really impressive for current formulations, I wish the smell was better.

  43. #43
    Super Member LJD's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Nice to have your follow-up, vsls !

    I can relate 200% with your impressions about current Azzaro PH. Much, too much anise unbalances the composition...and I really do love anise !
    There are certainly worse reformulations today, but IMO they failed with that one...and I simply can't take the long time it takes to get to the dry-down.

    So, yes, I say "bravo!" to Azzaro for releasing L'Eau. Much Better & Modern take on the original....and a very good underrated fragrance for warm/hot weather....I'm sure the performance can be improved by spraying clothes, layering multiple sprays or re-applying when needed. it can be had for bargain nowadays, making it easy on the purse to be a tad more liberal with the sprays

    Regards,
    LJD

  44. #44

    Default Re: Dirty Mediterranean Summer

    Thanks LJD. I feel better that my impressions on PH were not so far away from reality since I'm not an expert at all of any Azzaro formulations. I can't say that I hate anise, it exists in some of my favorite drinks, but I don't really want to smell like that for about 1-1.5h till the dry-down.

    About L'Eau I feel much better, it also has my "missing" citruses, and since I've tested it with PH at the same time I must say that I couldn't easily find many differences between them during the dry-down. Just the projection of PH is much more prominent and L'Eau has a green "sparkle" which was nice. I hope that the longevity could be improved since I've only sprayed twice on my wrist and I got 6+hours of it. The best so far for a citrus fragrance for me.

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