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  1. #1
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    "......out of the darkness now came a soft floral accord reminiscent of honeysuckle, lighting up the stark woody structure. This suggests to me that the sample sent had not completed proper maceration. The balance is now more interesting and the structure richer than when first opened. I assume by the time this reaches the shops the chemistry will have worked its magic......"

    http://arabia.style.com/beauty/beaut...agrances-2014/
    Last edited by pluran; 15th May 2014 at 06:48 AM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Interesting to read his thoughts. Thanks for the link.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Great stuff - thank you, Pluran .

  4. #4

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Only 3 ✔️for opu VIII and 4 ✔️ For Florbotanica, I would of thought the reverse ...Thx for sharing
    "Thank GOD for the nose, for without it we would not be enjoying these beautiful created Scents" also Remember "Balance is everything and the key to appreciating "

  5. #5

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    '..not original or memorable ..'' and Florabotanica gets more stars? Shoot

  6. #6

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Thanks for the heads up! Hanging onto what's left of my Opus VIII sample after a couple of initial tries a week or two ago. Still trying to get a handle on it - I did get a sense of the same slightly narcotic floral touch you find in Memoir Woman, even a little in Opus I - an almost bitter green white floral presence - but mainly I was tracking the foggy coastal idea to see what it was doing, and if it was anything like Epices Marine. This one still has me guessing a bit . . . the intrigue of it, responding to what story it's telling, is all part of the fun for me.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 15th May 2014 at 03:04 AM.
    “Anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life, nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge.'”
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  7. #7

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    How much does he get paid for a couple of paragraphs?

  8. #8
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by elevation View Post
    How much does he get paid for a couple of paragraphs?
    Plenty.

    At least he mentions wearing the Amouage on skin and over an extended period of time. Things are looking up.
    I have to say the description of the Balenciaga was vague and not terribly helpful. I have no idea what to expect there. Some sort of transparent floral, apparently, whatever that may be.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Thanks for the link. Marine notes sound scary. I have not smelled this one, but I have been no fan of the Opus series, which usually smells a bit too simple and a bit rushed. Turin is usually in favor of Amouage - and hasn't talked much about the reformulations.

    Unlike kumquat, I do find his Florabotanica description quite useful. The idea I get is of a synthetic white floral, but well executed and fun, without any particular chemical ("peony","rose" etc) sticking out and without trying to be elegant or sexy. After all, as he mentions, modern florals have no connection to botany, so floral notes would not be particularly informative.

    Incidentally, of note is the "pre-reformulation Beyond paradise". Suggesting perhaps that even he would downgrade his much beloved BP.

    cacio

  10. #10
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Thanks for the link. Marine notes sound scary. I have not smelled this one, but I have been no fan of the Opus series, which usually smells a bit too simple and a bit rushed. Turin is usually in favor of Amouage - and hasn't talked much about the reformulations.

    Unlike kumquat, I do find his Florabotanica description quite useful. The idea I get is of a synthetic white floral, but well executed and fun, without any particular chemical ("peony","rose" etc) sticking out and without trying to be elegant or sexy. After all, as he mentions, modern florals have no connection to botany, so floral notes would not be particularly informative.

    Incidentally, of note is the "pre-reformulation Beyond paradise". Suggesting perhaps that even he would downgrade his much beloved BP.

    cacio
    Good perceptions as usual, cacio. Interesting that he thought the sample hadn't completed proper maceration and the fragrance would be better with time. Looking forward to smelling the Balenciaga. Especially since it was co-created by Olivier Polge before he went to Chanel.
    Last edited by pluran; 15th May 2014 at 04:08 AM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Unlike kumquat, I do find his Florabotanica description quite useful. The idea I get is of a synthetic white floral, but well executed and fun, without any particular chemical ("peony","rose" etc) sticking out and without trying to be elegant or sexy. After all, as he mentions, modern florals have no connection to botany, so floral notes would not be particularly informative.
    cacio
    Yes. I was just recently thinking about abstract florals where no single note stands out, and why I tend to shy away from them. BP was the one I was thinking about, but now I'm interested to try this and see what it's about. Good reviews.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    '..not original or memorable ..'' and Florabotanica gets more stars? Shoot
    It's because it's The Opposite Day today.

    Oh, wait...

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florobotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Good perceptions as usual, cacio. Interesting that he thought the sample hadn't completed proper maceration and the fragrance would be better with time. Looking forward to smelling the Balenciaga. Especially since it was co-created by Olivier Polge before he went to Chanel.
    Yes - I thought this was a very interesting installment on both counts. Thanks for the link!

    As for the Amouage, I'm intrigued by the initial description as a ginger-free Gucci Envy For Men. THAT makes me want to smell it. Not so sure about the maceration thing, because I tend to distrust human perception first, and chemistry later, but it could very well be. In any case, the three stars is nice, because it proves to me that the man is no Amouage fanboy, and that's a good thing.

    I'm very happy about his review of Florabotanica. I thought that fragrance was one of the most novel things to hit the counter at Saks in a long time. Turin is always on the lookout for something original, even if that amounts to no more than the perfumer artfully revisiting the old stuff (Turin's most global point of reference, hanging over every review, being that it's all been done before anyway). Originality is less important to me, but seeing that it's still important to Luca is reassuring, because it means I can still turn to his reviews and transform them to my world without error. Florabotanica (interesting) and Marni (quirky) are the two things that really jumped out at me, after SO many slight, careful, safe, accounting-driven tweaks this way and that on the women's counter over the last few years. Even more importantly (and I really feel this needs to be said), Florabotanica has virtually zero BN hype. ZERO. No designer house-based love, no classic pull, and no niche trendiness. I just love seeing that there are no strings attached to that review. Turin's independence from the herd is something that cannot be reaffirmed too often.
    * * * *

  14. #14

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    My wife just received a sample of the Balenciaga from Sephora. She thought it was nice but not anything full bottle worthy, but she rarely likes florals.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  15. #15

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    After the review, I made a point of smelling Florabotanica. It is a modern clean white floral, in the tradition of Tommy Girl, but not as blindingly white as TG, with a touch of tea (as required by the genre), but not too much, and with more citrus. It avoids going overboard in the whiteness, and so it remains likable. But at the same time it doesn't become sweet, fruity or pink, it remains white and clean. Not that I would wear it, but if one must wear a modern clean white floral, this could be it.

    There's also a Rosabotanica, which however is more muddled, the rose is strange, and doesn't really fit in the context.

    cacio

  16. #16

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    In the review of Florabotanica, he makes mention of the pre reformulation Beyond Paradise. I did not know this was reformulated. Does anyone know how to identify the original formula bottle and packaging ?

    Thanks in advance.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    In the Opus Vlll review, it sounds like LT was "thrown off" by the " intense marine and woody-amber note," because I don't see how he could have missed something that smelled like honeysuckle! However, I've never experienced intense marine and woody-amber as top notes, nor can I imagine that such chemicals would dissipate fairly quickly. Something seems very wrong here!

  18. #18
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by BRM85282 View Post
    My wife just received a sample of the Balenciaga from Sephora. She thought it was nice but not anything full bottle worthy, but she rarely likes florals.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Now that we are forbidden from having base notes of substance like oak moss or anything with tooth and substance, we will likely be awash in 'transparent florals' from now on.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Now that we are forbidden from having base notes of substance like oak moss or anything with tooth and substance, we will likely be awash in 'transparent florals' from now on.
    Only Guerlain seems to be sticking by oakmoss - but they really have to. Their stable of classics demands it. Too many other things out there have gone girly - sweet - fruity - vanilla - fruity/floral - fruitchouli.

    Somebody needs to make a dead sexy modern chypre that wins back the young women. Something that's almost scandalous. Just some out of the box thing that uses defanged oakmoss plus something that gives its teeth back - and is somehow trendy with women who have been raised on tooth decay florals.

    SIGH. Probably won't happen, but we can wish!
    * * * *

  20. #20

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Beyond Paradise made worse, is it possible? I do hope so. My 'vintage' bottle (99% full) may redeem itself yet!

  21. #21

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    I just read some blog reviews of Opus VIII, and it does seem to have some strange/unique qualities, though the honeysuckle comment still seems really out of place. Honeysuckle notes really "stick out like a sore thumb" to me, and I doubt all the blog reviewers I encountered would not notice it.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post

    Somebody needs to make a dead sexy modern chypre that wins back the young women. Something that's almost scandalous. Just some out of the box thing that uses defanged oakmoss plus something that gives its teeth back - and is somehow trendy with women who have been raised on tooth decay florals.
    What existing fragrance would you use roughly as a reference?

  23. #23
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by HORNS View Post
    What existing fragrance would you use roughly as a reference?
    I was thinking of my beloved Caron- French Cancan. ​No one seems to know about this scent but me. I have sent a few samples out. It has oak moss, as well as a nice hefty dose of rose, violet, heliotrope amber and Vetiver. It is a bossy chypre floral unlike any other save maybe- Houbigant's Aperçu which is also, unbelievably, still on the market. PS, I get my juice from the French boutique in Paris for reasons known best by me and a few close compadres.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    I was thinking of my beloved Caron- French Cancan. ​No one seems to know about this scent but me. I have sent a few samples out. It has oak moss, as well as a nice hefty dose of rose, violet, heliotrope amber and Vetiver. It is a bossy chypre floral unlike any other save maybe- Houbigant's Aperçu which is also, unbelievably, still on the market. PS, I get my juice from the French boutique in Paris for reasons known best by me and a few close compadres.

    Interesting - and yeah, I'm with everyone else concerning not knowing about the fragrances you mentioned.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    I don't know why people want to hear what this guy says. He might be able to pick up notes 100 times better then me. But as far as his taste goes. Does anyone ever agree? And then I think why is it worth listening too?

  26. #26

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigsly View Post
    I just read some blog reviews of Opus VIII, and it does seem to have some strange/unique qualities, though the honeysuckle comment still seems really out of place. Honeysuckle notes really "stick out like a sore thumb" to me, and I doubt all the blog reviewers I encountered would not notice it.
    I get no honeysuckle, though he may be talking about the indolic whisps that come and surprise me while wearing this beauty. I've come to point when reading Mr. Turin's reviews that their main value is their pithy wit and not so much his opinion on the actual juice.

    Opus VIII is unique and compelling. I agree with the Non-Blonde's description http://www.thenonblonde.com/2014/03/...opus-viii.html of it being disturbingly beautiful.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    I tried this and also got an intense marine note. The woody note that accompanied it could have been amber and or tonka. It is a scent filled with clichés. It reminded me of the Seinfeld episode in which Kramer invents a "beach" perfume.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by Chados View Post
    I don't know why people want to hear what this guy says. He might be able to pick up notes 100 times better then me. But as far as his taste goes. Does anyone ever agree? And then I think why is it worth listening too?
    You will no doubt be amazed to hear that you are not the first person to ask this question.

  29. #29
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by Chados View Post
    I don't know why people want to hear what this guy says. He might be able to pick up notes 100 times better then me. But as far as his taste goes. Does anyone ever agree? ...........
    Because if you knew anything about him or perfume you'd know that unlike most of the the morons on this site who mainly just follow and repeat what some other moron said, he's one of the few people who actually knows his ass from third base. And as the multitude of high quality editorial reviews make clear, he's one of the best writers on the planet. I relate with most of his taste, and I have the best taste on this site. :-)

    For those who haven't seen it:

    The Top Ten Masculines from Perfumes:The A-Z Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez (2009)

    Azzaro pour Homme
    Derby
    Eau de Guerlain
    Habit Rouge
    Knize Ten
    New York
    Ormonde Men
    Pour Monsieur
    Sycomore
    Timbuktu

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Because if you knew anything about him or perfume you'd know that unlike most of the morons on this site who mainly just follow and repeat what some other moron said, he's one of the few people who actually knows his ass from third base. And as the multitude of high quality editorial reviews make clear, he's one of the best writers on the planet. I relate with most of his taste, and I have the best taste on this site. :-)

  31. #31

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post
    You will no doubt be amazed to hear that you are not the first person to ask this question.
    Haha I know. Don't mean to bash you. You're an expert but I just cannot agree with you on everything. However I'm gonna try out tauer and if I also give this a 5 star. I will be the first to admit it.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    I just don't agree with his taste. Is he a good reviewer? Yes. . What I was meaning was that I don't understand why people listen when it comes to his taste since people normally don't agree. If any I think his doing a good job when people are actually listening even though they don't agree

  33. #33

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by Chados View Post
    I just don't agree with his taste. Is he a good reviewer? Yes. . What I was meaning was that I don't understand why people listen when it comes to his taste since people normally don't agree. If any I think his doing a good job when people are actually listening even though they don't agree
    Lots of people agree, and lots of people don't. I find myself agreeing at times, and not others, but it doesn't bother me in the slightest when something I like gets slated or they praise something that I find to be insipid. I go for the writing more than anything which is consistently brilliant in both its perceptiveness and its snark. L+S aren't godheads, and they don't claim to be—they're simply sharing their thoughts on perfumery based on their experience but deliver them through their distinctive sleights of hand. Enjoy the writing for what it is, learn what you can, and then go experience the scents for yourself!

  34. #34

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by Chados View Post
    I just don't agree with his taste.
    [QUOTE=Chados;3187413]
    There are a few reviewers I enjoy reading whose tastes and mine don't necessarily collide every time (and why on earth should they be expected to?) but their reviews often reveal aspects of a fragrance which hadn't occurred to me and are enjoyable pieces of writing.
    If they're amusing, it's a bonus
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  35. #35

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    I get it. If you enjoy it then read it. Heck even i can find it interesting. I just don't understand how he can have so different taste compared to most people and yet people read it. If this was sport and he was a commentator it would be so different that's all I'm saying.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post
    You will no doubt be amazed to hear that you are not the first person to ask this question.
    Luca,

    sorry to hijack this thread, but I'm wondering if you can confirm whether you and Tania are working on a new perfume book, and if so, what does the book cover ? e.g new fragrances released since the late 2000's, further news on reformulation of classics etc.

    Thanks and apologies for the temporary hijack.

    Ciao

  37. #37

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul P View Post
    I'm wondering if you can confirm whether you and Tania are working on a new perfume book, and if so, what does the book cover ? e.g new fragrances released since the late 2000's, further news on reformulation of classics etc.
    Ciao
    Hi Paul: Thank you for asking. Yes and Yes, but things are a bit slow at the mo due to other commitments.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Luca,

    thanks for that.

    Are you able to give a rough date for publication ?

  39. #39

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul P View Post
    Luca,

    thanks for that.

    Are you able to give a rough date for publication ?
    Not yet, but things will become clearer in the next few months.

  40. #40

    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    I loved the analogy to the Philippe Starck Ghost Chair. I hadn't ever seen one before, but as soon as I saw the photo, I thought of comedian Eddie Izzard saying, "Et voilà!" The preponderance of new synthetic perfumes are but different styles of this same chair.

  41. #41
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin Reviews Amouage Opus Vlll and Balenciaga Florabotanicas at Style.com Arabia

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    I loved the analogy to the Philippe Starck Ghost Chair. I hadn't ever seen one before, but as soon as I saw the photo, I thought of comedian Eddie Izzard saying, "Et voilà!" The preponderance of new synthetic perfumes are but different styles of this same chair.
    Aint that the truth!

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