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  1. #1

    Default New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    I thought this might be a good moment to say a few words about the new Bogue Profumo fragrance, MAAI, and to rekindle discussion about this incredible line as there are a few other new projects in the works.

    Screen Shot 2014-05-31 at 10.24.00 AM.jpg
    (Image courtesy of Antonio Gardoni)

    I'm a huge fan of Antonio Gardoni's work, and for some time, I've found him to be one of the most important new voices running laps around what can only be described as a stagnant perfume industry. Like several others, Gardoni has taken it upon himself to salvage old ideas and give them a new lease of life outside of commercial restriction. Last year's Cologne Reloaded and Eau d'E were startling releases, albeit restricted due to the limitations of the vintage materials that they used. And whereas the bar was already set quite high with those two releases, he's really knocked it out of the park with MAAI.

    MAAI is a warmly evocative and animalic chypre, but one that doesn't push the musks simply for the sake of being daring; they're absolutely present and central, but not obnoxiously so. My initial impression is that there's a castoreum / hyraceum combination at work, alongside a generous dosing of civet. Both the experience of Montecristo and MKK come to mind, but MAAI splits the difference and turns it down a notch—but only slightly. It's an animalic scent for sure, but in a much more classical vein.

    Also, MAAI isn't as herbal as some of his past releases, but it maintains some of the old school form that he's so enamored with. In the past, I've found that his work feels more like a modern twist on vintage, but this one feels purely classical throughout. There's moss, some resins, what strikes me as a spiced lavender, and selection of other florals that are all finely integrated. It's smooth and refined with no sharp edges protruding—a totally baroque thing with a ton of drama. I get the impression of slightly plummy dried fruits, earthy notes, and some gorgeous musks.

    Having chatted briefly with Antonio about the composition, the fruity notes that I perceived are actually part of the floral component—a green tuberose, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose. When combined, they feel less floral and more stewed to me—a sort of rich, candied series of notes that you'd expect from bygone perfumery. What spins it a little more fruity is the hyraceum, which lends real character to the overall structure. Although I find this aspect hard to isolate, the scent is structured upon old style aldehydes akin to early Chanel experiments. This is all built over a base labdanum and sandalwood with oriental incense infusions running throughout. It's extremely complex, but feels totally effortless.

    MAAI had a soft release at the Smell Festival in Italy last week, and the scent should be ready for order in the next few weeks. For those of you who enjoy either evocative or classical styles—or were intrigued by last year's releases—this one is totally worthy of attention.
    Last edited by deadidol; 31st May 2014 at 06:20 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Thanks for the info., deadidol - one more for the 'to do' list!

  3. #3

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Thanks DI - been wearing lots of Reloaded, and can't wait for this one!
    Currently wearing: Baque by Slumberhouse

  4. #4
    Basenotes Institution sjg3839's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Thanks for the info.

  5. #5
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Appreciate the info.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve other individuals' acknowledgement or respect.

  6. #6

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    If you're at all curious about the name, look here.

    Also, there's a recent interview here with Antonio where he discusses the creation of this scent.

  7. #7
    Dependent james1051's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Are samples of this line available?

  8. #8

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Quote Originally Posted by deadidol View Post
    If you're at all curious about the name, look here.
    I'm curious as to how this translates into scent.
    Currently wearing: Baque by Slumberhouse

  9. #9
    Super Member Fhaoilgeal's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Thanks, deadidol. Do you know when MAAI will be released for purchase? It doesn't show up on his website yet.

    There's also this entry yesterday on Antonio's Bogue Profumo Facebook page. Is this another new fragrance or something 'completely different'?

    me trying to explain KER, the smell of an enchanted wood with hiding Fauns and Cereris in a corner resisting Bacchus temptations.
    The moss is wet the trees are dripping resins and it's a warm end of the day, some very sensual activity will happen soon...
    KER is made of wood and resins at a very high volume with a gentle and sexy gardenia appearing trough the leaves


    “interpretation is the revenge of the intellect upon art.” - Susan Sontag

  10. #10
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Due for release mid June.

  11. #11

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Quote Originally Posted by Fhaoilgeal View Post
    me trying to explain KER, the smell of an enchanted wood with hiding Fauns and Cereris in a corner resisting Bacchus temptations.
    The moss is wet the trees are dripping resins and it's a warm end of the day, some very sensual activity will happen soon...
    KER is made of wood and resins at a very high volume with a gentle and sexy gardenia appearing trough the leaves
    KER is different. I have smelled it, but I'm not sure what the release details are of that one yet. I also haven't spent enough time with it yet to give any real impressions, but I get coniferous notes, some green fresh things, rose, smoke, and hyraceum.

  12. #12
    Super Member Fhaoilgeal's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    I hope I get a sample of MAAI included in my delivery from Bogue Profumo! You got my attention at 'animalic chypre'.
    When you get back to KER I'd be very interested if you get the 'sexy gardenia appearing through leaves' that Antonio references.
    “interpretation is the revenge of the intellect upon art.” - Susan Sontag

  13. #13
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Thanks for the links, Deadidol. I'm really impressed with the process he takes. Here's one perfumer I'd gladly support.
    Currently wearing: Cuoio by Odori

  14. #14

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Quote Originally Posted by Fhaoilgeal View Post
    I hope I get a sample of MAAI included in my delivery from Bogue Profumo! You got my attention at 'animalic chypre'.
    When you get back to KER I'd be very interested if you get the 'sexy gardenia appearing through leaves' that Antonio references.
    What I'm picking up as rose could be gardenia, but I'll try and do some writing on KER over the next few days.

  15. #15

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Very interesting!
    for swap/sale:



  16. #16
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Here are my thoughts on this stunning beauty…

    AS a good friend of mine would say:

    F*** ME SIDEWAYS!

    WOW! I mean, really, WOW!

    I liked Bogue since Gardoni's very early excursions into perfumery but, even though I own full bottles of his previous fragrances, I've never really grown to *love* them. I thoroughly liked them and yes, he immediately showed a great potential and talent but, IMO, none of his previous works were more than good sketches / ideas on potentially great fragrances. Well, with Maai he pushed on the accelerator and delivered something that moves in masterpieces territories.

    A big, animalic, old school chypre that says *F*** IFRA* from top to bottom. I've no idea about the strength but this is so potent and concentrated that feels like an extrait. Still too early to go with a proper note breakdown but think about Onda, Jubilation 25 (the feminine), some of the best chypres from the past and O'Driù all of them at the same time. Honestly, mind-blowing.

    I'm more than happy because this fragrance, together with the new releases by Comme Des Garcons and to a lesser extent Ombre Indigo by Olfactive Studio, reached me in a moment in which I started feeling terribly bored by the majority of the new launches. These fragrances brought back some enthusiasm and gave me hope that, in the end, perfumery is not dead as long as it skips trite stereotypes and soul-less formulas.

    If you dig Vero Profumo's style, you absolutely need Maaj because Gardoni is a solid candidate to become the new *Vero Kern*.

    Note: I do apologize for the language but this stuff got me excited to the point I crossed the border of Tourette syndrome.


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  17. #17
    Dependent james1051's Avatar
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    hahaha! didn't read past the first line! (although I will)
    On my try list, but where the heck do you try it?

  18. #18

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  20. #20

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Can't really add much to deadidol and Alfarom's wonderful thoughts, but I've been wearing Maai a few times now, and fully agree, it's a treasure.

    As for KER, it was apparently made as a fragrance to scent an art gallery installation.
    Well, it's cheaper than therapy... edit: No it's not...

  21. #21
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Do you know whether KER will be released for sale, Mick_Trick?

  22. #22

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Great thread!! I am the proud owner of a bottle of COLOGNE RELOADED and also have a sample of MAAI. Both are stunning creations in my opinion. I am testing MAAI as we speak and trying to break it down.....to me it's a Tuberose and Incense heavy scent, with Cloves, Cypress and possibly Castoreum. I would love to see a note breakdown to see what is actually used. Congrats Antonio, a great guy and a magnificent perfumer.

  23. #23

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Quote Originally Posted by lpp View Post
    Do you know whether KER will be released for sale, Mick_Trick?
    I've no idea lpp. If I hear I'll post a confirmation.
    Well, it's cheaper than therapy... edit: No it's not...

  24. #24
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Quote Originally Posted by Mick_Trick View Post
    I've no idea lpp. If I hear I'll post a confirmation.

    Thank you, Mick_Trick

  25. #25

    Lightbulb Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    [QUOTE=alfarom;3163376]Here are my thoughts on this stunning beauty…

    AS a good friend of mine would say:

    F*** ME SIDEWAYS!

    WOW! I mean, really, WOW!

    If you dig Vero Profumo's style, you absolutely need Maaj because Gardoni is a solid candidate to become the new *Vero Kern*.


    I adore Vero Kern's perfumes but have to admit that Onda Extrait was too much of a challenge for me ..... I tried but had to give up but Cologne Reloaded and now Maii are both brilliant scents for a woman as well as a man I let my husband sample and he was equally blown away. I am so very fed up by the market being dominated by so many variations on an Oud theme that seem all the same that I find Maii totally refreshing in style, wonderfully complex, rich and yet not too overpowing for summer and well all I can say as someone who is not good at describing olefactory notes is "bloody brilliant" a sample is NOT enough.

  26. #26

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    What are the bottle prices looking like?

  27. #27

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Lpp, Antonio confirmed the following to me regarding KER:

    "Not really planning to release KER as a personal fragrance, it's project created for an olfactory art exhibition in a very small ammount."
    Well, it's cheaper than therapy... edit: No it's not...

  28. #28
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    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Aw - thanks for the info. Mick_Trick

  29. #29

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    Quote Originally Posted by Mick_Trick View Post
    Lpp, Antonio confirmed the following to me regarding KER:

    "Not really planning to release KER as a personal fragrance, it's project created for an olfactory art exhibition in a very small ammount."

    Wonder if this was the scent he did for Beijing Design Week? http://moreinside.blogspot.sg/2014/0...rdoni-for.html
    Currently wearing: Baque by Slumberhouse

  30. #30

    Default Re: New Bogue Profumo: MAAI

    I've been wearing MAAI for the last 3 days. Wow! Bogue pushed on the accelerator this time! I felt in lo love with Antonio Gardoni's work since the first time I smelled L'Eau d'E and "le 9 vie" bases. Cologne Reloaded was amazing and now MAAI! When I heard that Antonio was working with tuberose I was like:"Oh no! I hate Tuberose!" But Antonio knows how to do it. He came out with an animalic-chypre fragrance where the flower has become masculine and amazing. Will this be the only tuberose I will wear? Probably it will.
    But MAAI it's not only about tuberose. It's also about herbs, moss, resins, oriental inceses that give to this fragrance what I like to call "the Bogue feeling". When you spray it you will say:" It's new but it's Bogue for sure". What is the Bogue feeling? It's the "fil rouge" that links Antonio's work, the old school way of working, the cuddling base notes.
    If you don't know Bogue yet, just e-mail Antonio and he will send you samples. But beware...you will fall in love with this brand!

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