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  1. #1

    Default Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    I'm trying to make a fragrance oil with vetyver, bay rum, and clove. It doesn't seem to have quite the staying power I would like it to, nor is it quite as strong-smelling as I would like. Am I not letting "age" long enough, is that the issue? Or would it be likely to be something else?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    What carrier are you using, and to what concentration? Some hold the fragrance better than others.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    I've tried using coconut and grapeseed oil (separately) as carriers. I was aiming for around 15-20% concentration, but my measurements of the essential oils are not exact.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    What are the materials exactly, and where did they come from? Vetiver and clove are usually pretty durable.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    The bay rum is Aura Cacia. The vetyver is from Eden Botanicals (the Sri Lankan one). The clove one is a bit old, I don't recall the company offhand.

    Could it just be my skin "sucking in" the oil too much/too quickly? Or the like?
    Last edited by attaromancer; 5th July 2014 at 12:55 AM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    Quote Originally Posted by attaromancer View Post
    The bay rum is Aura Cacia. The vetyver is from Eden Botanicals (the Sri Lankan one). The clove one is a bit old, I don't recall the company offhand.

    Could it just be my skin "sucking in" the oil too much/too quickly? Or the like?
    Well, the suppliers seem okay. I'm not familiar myself, but doesn't something like coconut / grapeseed oil really dull down a scent?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    Grapeseed oil does, as I was told here - from my own experience it works great for massage oil, but not for a more complex fragrance. Fractionated coconut oil is supposed to hold the scent much better, as does jojoba oil but the latter's pricey.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    In the bottle, both with grapeseed and with coconut, I still get a lot of scent, as I do in the first 5-20 minutes after I apply it. But it seems to disappear more quickly than I would like (esp. as I understood that perfume oils were supposed to have more longevity than alcohol-based scents). Do you think changing the carrier oil would help? (Or it's just my skin chemistry? Alcohol-based aftershaves don't seem to last very long for me either.)

  9. #9

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    Are you sure it's not olfactory fatigue?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    Quote Originally Posted by Chrestomanthic View Post
    Are you sure it's not olfactory fatigue?
    I suppose it's possible, though reapplication seems to work (i.e. renew a strong scent).

    Perhaps I'll try doing more coconut-based ones, to see if that makes any difference.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    Ok so there are several issues here
    -the carrier oil as base, vegetable oils are not the best solvents of aromatics, meaning they can indeed dull a scent > solution: other solvents
    -essential oils are little fragrances on their own, when mixed with other EO's some lose their initial properties and mixtures of EO's seldom smell of perfume > solution: for that you'll need to use synthetics
    -making a perfume requires lots of practice and preferably the use of mixed media aka synthetics as well, synthetics provide a perfume with a stable frame, without them a mixture is likely to collapse like a house of cards > solution: keep practicing and learning, you cannot build a house just by moving some bricks around

    Good luck and have fun!
    Last edited by Irina; 5th July 2014 at 06:41 PM.
    Customized consultancy on olfactory branding, design & research
    I also offer individual online personalised advice on perfume making to anyone eager to learn how to smell and design like a pro
    www.irinatudor.nl

    Social platform & network on all things smelly
    www.somethingsmelly.com


    The facts on IFRA restrictions & EU regulations

  12. #12

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    I might experiment with (synthetic) fragrances at some point, but right now I'm concentrating on the essential oil ones, as it's just for my own pleasure.

    Is there any point to adding some alcohol (e.g. Everclear) to a perfume oil? I like the idea of using an oil base, rather than a fully-alcohol one, but is there any point in a compromise? Or better just to stick to oil as carrier or alcohol as carrier?

  13. #13

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    Quote Originally Posted by attaromancer View Post
    I might experiment with (synthetic) fragrances at some point, but right now I'm concentrating on the essential oil ones, as it's just for my own pleasure.

    Is there any point to adding some alcohol (e.g. Everclear) to a perfume oil? I like the idea of using an oil base, rather than a fully-alcohol one, but is there any point in a compromise? Or better just to stick to oil as carrier or alcohol as carrier?
    There are many oily solvents that are not per se vergetable oils from the grocery store, check out the sticky topics. I would say experiment with as many as possible in different dilution %, sometimes further dilution can improve how you experience a scent. There is nothing wrong with keeping it simple, experience 1 aromatic at the time, before mixing them. With naturals there are also differences between supplier to supplier, between harvest, region, season, year etc. I have about 30 different vetivers and while they all smell like vetiver, they each also have an unique olfactory profile.
    The discovery is most of the fun!
    Last edited by Irina; 6th July 2014 at 06:13 PM.
    Customized consultancy on olfactory branding, design & research
    I also offer individual online personalised advice on perfume making to anyone eager to learn how to smell and design like a pro
    www.irinatudor.nl

    Social platform & network on all things smelly
    www.somethingsmelly.com


    The facts on IFRA restrictions & EU regulations

  14. #14

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    Can you point me towards the relevant sticky? I looked through a few and (while I found lots of good information) I didn't see anything specifically about 'oily' non-vegetable oil solvents.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/261...umers-alcohol/

    I see it's no longer complete cos of forum migration problems a few months ago.
    Basically look up
    isopropyl myristate IPM
    dipropyl glygol DPG
    benzyl benzoate BB (weak aromatic), there are other aromatics that are useful as solvents like hedione, benzyl alcohol and many more
    silicones (there are many kinds)
    or look into
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/ search per essential oil and on the right side you'll see a list of 'soluble in ...
    Customized consultancy on olfactory branding, design & research
    I also offer individual online personalised advice on perfume making to anyone eager to learn how to smell and design like a pro
    www.irinatudor.nl

    Social platform & network on all things smelly
    www.somethingsmelly.com


    The facts on IFRA restrictions & EU regulations

  16. #16

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    Many thanks!

  17. #17

    Default Re: Fragrance oil longevity/strength difficulties

    You're welcome! Please do post the results of your experiments
    Customized consultancy on olfactory branding, design & research
    I also offer individual online personalised advice on perfume making to anyone eager to learn how to smell and design like a pro
    www.irinatudor.nl

    Social platform & network on all things smelly
    www.somethingsmelly.com


    The facts on IFRA restrictions & EU regulations

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