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  1. #1
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    I began my affair with the House of Caron with N'Aimez Que Moi Extrait when I was searching out violet scents. Funny that now, this one is more Rose to me than violet.

    Next came a vintage Bellodgia scored in the 'free to a good home' thread. That one took a few tries to grow on me, but now, I am certainly enamored with it's rich, spicy depths.

    Then, I fell under the spell of Tabac Blond parfum. This one smells like pure sin to my nose. Maybe because it reminds me of my days of smoking and drinking and all sorts??

    Along the way, some very kind (and dangerous) Basenoters sent me a few other parfum samples to try, including Farnesiana, Acaciosa, vintage Nuit de Noil, Narcisse Noir, French Can Can, Royal Bain de Caron many of which I am falling for.

    I also got to sniff Violette Precieux, Aimez Moi and picked up a bottle of vintage Eau de Cologne.

    Now, on my list are the following to search out for sampling. Tell me if I've missed anything imperative. And do share any anecdotes about this house you may have!

    Infini
    Parfum Sacre


    Here's what is on my wishlist of the ones I've tried, which will give you an idea of what I really enjoy I hope. I've wondered whether I should actually go for Nuit de Noel as it shares some character with Tabac Blond (Caronaide?)

    Nuit de Noel
    Farnesiana
    Acaciosa
    Narcisse Noir
    En Avion
    Last edited by danieq; 14th July 2014 at 01:50 AM.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

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  2. #2

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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Infini is an ok floral, but didn't seem anything special to me. Parfum sacre is a spicy woody rose, interesting, but again, didn't wow me too much. I have En Avion in parfum: it's a dry, thankfully non-soapy orange blossom with fresh anisic note and a slight dry leathery drydown. I suppose it was more leathery and chypre in distant vintage, but it's still very good.

    In your wishlist, I especially like Acaciosa, a rich, dirty jasmine.At least when I bought it, it was still ok, although with Caron one can never be sure of reformulation. I have not smelled NdN in parfum, so I cannot comment on that. The edt has a nice dirty note, but it also has a powdery-soapy note that ruins the whole thing a bit. Current NN in edt is an orange blossom of little consequence, and I haven't smelled the parfum enough to judge it.

    As you've heard already, parfum is usually vastly better than edt for current Caron, and the way to go.

    cacio

  3. #3

    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    The Carons are a shadow of their former selves.

    I have Infini in extract and its a lovely aldehydic floral in the style of say No5(I can't wear No5 but can Infini).

    Acaciosa is now discontinued, it has a pineapple note it seems. I did have a sample, it was only available in extract. But I got a rich heady floral.

    Nuit de Noel and Narcisse Noir should only be in extract as the edt version I found very lacking and sort of weak and watery.

    Narcisse Noir in extract is a sillage monster of orange blossom. A gorgeous diva.

    Narcisse Blanc is more metallic.

    Nuit de Noel is nothing like Tabac Blond, its actually quite soft and understated. Despite the name its not what what you expect. The closest to TB is En Avion.

    Farnesiana is gorgeous, rich heady heliotrope.

    En Avion is smooth leather, I think of it has Tabac Blond but smoother and the leather is not tanners yard.

    Parfum Sacre is loved by so many. Its incense powdery spicy rose.
    Last edited by donna255; 12th July 2014 at 07:43 AM.
    DONNA

  4. #4
    Basenotes Plus

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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    It's still possible to find the older versions in good condition.
    Directory contribution link:-
    http://www.basenotes.net/contribute.php

  5. #5

    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Would also recommend- even this suggestion may be less usual- also a sampling of Pour un Homme. While not a clear unisex and more so a distinctively masculine scent, it has a sort of very creamy, smooth, rich and lush vanillic-gourmand complexity quite appropriate to be worn (in my opinion) by any gender.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    I would recommend also testing L'Accord 119, unless you are exploring strictly vintage stuff. It's labeled as a fruit/floral but I feel that label is not the entire story ... there is so much more going on that just fruits and flowers. Even though it is a fairly new release, I do think there is a nod to the classic Caron "feel" in the base.

    notes: blackcurrant bud, Egyptian jasmine, patchouli, blackberry, black pepper, vanilla, heliotrope, musk, amber
    I've trademarked the color bleu

  7. #7
    heart of ice
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Quote Originally Posted by donna255 View Post
    <snip>


    Farnesiana is gorgeous, rich heady heliotrope.
    Not to self: MUST sample this!
    I've trademarked the color bleu

  8. #8

    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Latest reports from Paris say that the Acaciosa fountain made a re-appearance at the Caron Montaigne boutique, which is splendid news indeed. I suggest sampling Pois de Senteur. There is hardly anything like it with its heavily talced feel. Poivre has gotten sweeter and cinnamon-y, so I recommend Coup de Fouet (the EdT version that comes in the Pour un Homme flacon) instead. Coup de Fouet is not discontinued, but only available from Caron directly.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    I have vintage infini extrait in the iconic stylized infinity bottle. It is a representative aldehydic floral with the kick of civet. EDT much less interesting. I discovered Acaciosa thru a kind basenotes denizen. Ordered the extrait about a year ago from PhytoUniverse in NYC. It is an exuberant jasmine, as if Patou Joy were a verb—Rejoicing. Fleurs de Rocaille is a beautiful spring floral; with Caron's often straight-ahead use of carnation taking a backseat to Muguet. Based on my small collection plus the sniffing of some decants, I would say that modern Carons stand on their own merit. I am a vintage fan, but I don't go in for the "past recapturing" sort of hand-wringing. Caron is to me, very, very French, which is to say womanly with a sly appearance of the animalics.

    Ah, and Yatagan! An herbal, piny, galbanum-laced male scent, which I fem up with a spritz of Tea Rose.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Have you tried vintage Pois de Senteur parfum? It is absolutely gorgeoous and I am wearing it now. And only do so in the cooler months. Its a powdery floral akin to Lorenzo Viloressi's Teint de Neige. I only use a very small amount as it is very potent.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Caron is my favorite house, try them all!
    Parfum Sacre is my favorite of all - spicy, creamy, incensy.
    Nuit de Noel is a sublime rosy chypre. If you love chypres, go for it!
    No one mentioned Noctures, but if you like aldehylic scents give it a try - it's orange blossom, fizzy and airy.
    L'Arachiste is citrus, spice, metallic.
    Yatagan is dry, leatery, incensy, spicy.
    Third Man is sort of a floral, incensy.
    Farnesiana is floral, almondy, incense - complex and smells different every time I wear it.
    Royal Bain is great fizzy, floral, almost powdery but not quite, great when you want something light.
    Eau de Reglisse - citrus, ginger, vanilla, woods, spice, sort of a pomander scent. I love this one in any weather.

    I think it's worth sniffing every one you come across.
    Currently wearing: Farnesiana by Caron

  12. #12

    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Another lover of Infini here. I have it in the parfum (in the angular sculpture bottle) and have used a couple of bottles of the parfum de toilette (edp strength). What really makes Infini different is the slightly metallic quality of its aldehydic/floral blend. Don't know what ingredient or combination is responsible. Not chrome-cool like Calandre, not rosy-silver like Metal (both by P. Rabanne). Infini is warmer than either, but it has that effect of glinting light. The original version of Infini is much older than what was re-introduced in the 1970's and I've never smelled that original. The Infini we know is, imo, the distllation of its time - one whiff and it's shag haircuts, tight leather jackets and Bad Company on the radio. Enjoy if you obtain it. If you see the parfum in "the" bottle at an estate or garage sale, snap it up -regardless of the juice, it's a beautiful little object to have around.

  13. #13
    queen of the universe
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    Cool Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Well described, Jardanel.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jardanel View Post
    Another lover of Infini here. I have it in the parfum (in the angular sculpture bottle) and have used a couple of bottles of the parfum de toilette (edp strength). What really makes Infini different is the slightly metallic quality of its aldehydic/floral blend. Don't know what ingredient or combination is responsible. Not chrome-cool like Calandre, not rosy-silver like Metal (both by P. Rabanne). Infini is warmer than either, but it has that effect of glinting light. The original version of Infini is much older than what was re-introduced in the 1970's and I've never smelled that original. The Infini we know is, imo, the distllation of its time - one whiff and it's shag haircuts, tight leather jackets and Bad Company on the radio. Enjoy if you obtain it. If you see the parfum in "the" bottle at an estate or garage sale, snap it up -regardless of the juice, it's a beautiful little object to have around.

    And, yes, it is. The bottle and the juice. Lucky me:

    P1030778.jpg
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  14. #14

    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Thanks, jujy54! Exquisite photo - I'm encouraged to pull out my bottle and show it some love.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    My mother always opined that only brunettes can wear Caron. She was right, at least in my case. ;-(. She often wore Nuit de Noel as a wintry evening perfume. It smelled heavenly on her!

  16. #16
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    I am finding that I truly love this house. In fact, I don't believe I've yet found a single one which I don't like at all. I don't necessarily need to own all of them, but I find I am loving the Caronade. It's my understanding that quite a few of the Urns are being discontinued again. That makes me sad, however, given that the larger portion of the market wants fruity floral ala department store fare, it does make sense from a business point of view. I'm feverishly trying to get my hands on one of everything before they are all gone.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

    My Sales Thread - A Collection Purge

  17. #17

    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    I adored vintage Pois de Senteur. It was my favorite of the dozen or so Carons I had. Sadly, I never got to try Narcisse Noir or Nuit de Noel, but I was very happy with the ones I did have.
    Last edited by Zilpha; 11th August 2014 at 09:27 PM.

  18. #18
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Quote Originally Posted by danieq View Post
    I am finding that I truly love this house. In fact, I don't believe I've yet found a single one which I don't like at all. I don't necessarily need to own all of them, but I find I am loving the Caronade. It's my understanding that quite a few of the Urns are being discontinued again. That makes me sad, however, given that the larger portion of the market wants fruity floral ala department store fare, it does make sense from a business point of view. I'm feverishly trying to get my hands on one of everything before they are all gone.
    Which urns are supposed to be d/c and where did you hear this?

  19. #19
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Nasreen told me first (Parfumerie Nasreen) and Diane of Caron New York told me that she thinks they are discontinuing Pois de Senteur and Acaciosa because she can't get more stock of those. En Avion and some others were mentioned as well. You may want to call Diane for further clarification.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

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  20. #20
    Basenotes Junkie saminlondon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Quote Originally Posted by danieq View Post
    Nasreen told me first (Parfumerie Nasreen) and Diane of Caron New York told me that she thinks they are discontinuing Pois de Senteur and Acaciosa because she can't get more stock of those. En Avion and some others were mentioned as well. You may want to call Diane for further clarification.
    I was in the Caron shop on Avenue Montaigne not long ago and was surprised to see the Acaciosa urn back on display, having heard the rumours about it being phased out. I asked whether Acaciosa would continue to be available and was told it was here to stay. Of course we can never really be sure what's going on but that came from 'the horse's mouth', as it were.

  21. #21

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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Good to know that certain things are staying. It seems to me that it's just a matter of when they decide to do a new batch. These are not big sellers, so they must be produced very infrequently. Of course, who knows the extent of reformulation. Jasmine is an IFRA criminal ...

    cacio

  22. #22
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Yikes! I need a big bottle of En Avion.

  23. #23
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Diane, from the NY boutique commented to me that Caron Paris NEVER says what is being discontinued until it is gone. Her experience is that one day they have it and the next, they do not. I have no idea how long she's been with the company, but the impression I had was that it had been a while.

    Sam, I am glad to hear that Acaciosa is staying as I wanted to purchase some, but now is not the time!
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

    My Sales Thread - A Collection Purge

  24. #24
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Do you all find En Avion and Tabac Blond to be dramatically different from one another? I'm feeling like they have a LOT in common. So much so as to be nearly identical to my (admittedly untrained) nose.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

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  25. #25
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    TB is all about amber while EA ​is neroli up front.

  26. #26
    Dependent danieq's Avatar
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Do you all find En Avion and Tabac Blond to be dramatically different from one another? I'm feeling like they have a LOT in common. So much so as to be nearly identical to my (admittedly untrained) nose.
    I would have despaired unless I had believed that I would see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.

    My Sales Thread - A Collection Purge

  27. #27

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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Re: En Avion vs Tabac Blond, I suppose it matters a lot on the vintage (and concentration). The two recent parfums versions I have are quite different. En Avion, as kumquat was saying, is a big neroli-anisic thing with some light leather underneath, TB opens with a big warm whiskey amber-peaty quality, then sort of loses itself a bit. They both converge towards a light leathery base, but the neroli in EA is quite long lasting.

    I suspect than in (very) vintage, they must have both had a leather chypre base, perhaps a very similar one (I only smelled TB vintage, not EA).

    cacio

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    I've smelled most of the line. There are still quality releases, but Caron incessantly reformulates, which makes it difficult to know what you're going to get should you rebuy ( perfect example: I love a version of Poivre that existed in 2006, but it is markedly different from both 2010 and 2000 editions ).

    My current favorites are ( all parfum extrait unless stated otherwise ):

    Pois de Senteur - powdery, peculiarly "petroleum" white floral with a rich opoponax drydown. Not many close cousins, a pinch like Vero Profumo's new Rozy.

    Tubereuse - dense, rich, creamy tuberose, with a slight green, witchy dissonance that renders it unique. To my nose this what Mahora was aiming for, and failed. Vaguely similar to Bruno Acampora's Blu.

    Accord Code 119 - a warm, powdery, musky fragrance with a slightly tart edge due to the blackcurrant bud. It smells like one described a modern fruitchouli to a perfumer in the 1940s and this what they came up with: very "retro" smelling. ( With this above all others, get the parfum: the EDP's balance is all off and it smells, well, trashy and over-sweet. )

    Pour Un Homme ( Eau de Toilette ) - a song compared to the more symphonic femmes, but none the less a reference lavender for a reason. Minimalist lavender-vanilla with decent lasting power: no more, no less.

    Excellent in older formulations:

    Poivre - a rich, clove-y rose. There was sort of sliding scale where you have Rose - Or Et Noir - Poivre of non-spiced to spiced Caron roses. It's still good these days, but it's a bit harsh: a bittersweet clove accord akin to CDG's original EDP.

    Farnesiana - Une Fleur de Cassie's sunny-tempered grandma, or at least was, before an overdose of ylang transformed it into a peculiar banana-floral.

    Acaciosa - melancholic amber floral. The top notes have long been weird ( dissonant, sudsy pineapple that burns off soon ), but the base has become a bit etiolated now, too.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    I find Caron frustrating because almost everyone agrees that most of the current forumulations are pretty disastrous. Sugandaraja has given some helpful suggestions; does anyone else have suggestions on what formulations are acceptable today and which should be sought in vintage?

    Also, Diane in New York is very helpful, but I get the feeling that the bosses in Paris don't always let her know what's going on regarding stock.

    Has Alpona been axed?

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Alpona is no more as far as I know.

    Though I'm not actually a fan of them, En Avion ( it's a bit less mossy, markedly similar to past editions otherwise ), Narcisse Noire ( very similar to a '90s edition I've tried ), and Tabac Blond ( it gets lighter and lighter, but the core accord remains recognizable ) have all held up well.

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