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  1. #1

    Question Ethanol + Hedione + Iso E ? Where to start...?

    Hi all,

    I'm very new to this and my head is just SPINNING as far as wondering how much of a carrier agent to use when making a perfume. What proportions? What to do? Basically, I'm thinking pure ethanol, which I know is actually ~95% and then ~5% water. I'd also like to use Hedione and Iso E, but I am not sure if they would be compatible together, if they comprise the carrier agent or are part of the "perfume" itself, and how much of each I should use. Furthermore, how much of the ethanol/hed/isoE mix should I use in tandem with the perfume oils themselves?

    Do I start with an oil formula, then work my way backwards with the Hedione and Iso E, then dilute with Ethanol? Is it possible to start with a "base" mixture of all three or will the proportions be different for each composition of perfume I make? How does this all go? Aaah, I'm so sorry this is such a novice problem, but I'm absolutely perplexed as to where to start! Please let me know if this ought to be posted somewhere else, if you can help, or where I can find some helpful information if at all possible! Thank you so much!!!

    I'm young, impressionable, reckless, passionate. In short, a perfect student for the art of Perfume. You talk, I'll listen, we'll sniff. Let's take some risks together.

  2. #2
    Basenotes Plus

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Portland, Oregon

    Default Re: Ethanol + Hedione + Iso E ? Where to start...?

    Start with the sticky threads, read through them, get to know your materials, experiment
    This current thread is relevant to your question albeit for different reasons.

    If you use the search function there is a thread(s) pertaining to DIY "molecule one" that might be of some help
    Justin E. Beasley

  3. #3
    Basenotes Plus
    Wood and Tobacco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014

    Default Re: Ethanol + Hedione + Iso E ? Where to start...?

    Hi Ashler. It depends what you're trying to make. Hedione and Iso E surely go together, assuming you want the fragrance to have both of those components. They are both fairly mild, but add a nice element to a finished product.

    If you like the smell of those then I recommend making a 10 or 20% solution of each, then combining them in different proportions to see what ratio smells best. Then add a 3rd and 4th element.. it takes a lot of work but eventually you'll have an accord that smells good.

    Once you have 5 or 6 good accords (2 top notes, 1 or 2 middles, 2 bases), you can combine those in different ratios until you get something you're happy with. It takes a lot of fine-tuning though! In the end a finished fragrance generally has between 30 and 50 ingredients, though it's possible to put together something passable with less than 30.

    Molecule 1.. don't get me started on that Justin :P

  4. #4
    Paul Kiler
    pkiler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Southern California

    Default Re: Ethanol + Hedione + Iso E ? Where to start...?

    Hedione can be used successfully in anywhere from 1% to 35% of the perfume Concentrate, maybe even more in a few instances.
    Same thing for Iso E Super.

    The % is dependent upon your taste, needs, and what else is in the blend.

    But you *could* do this:
    Hedione 20%
    Iso E Super 20%
    other stuff mixed together 60%

    Use that alcohol, good choice.

    Start with 20% perfume concentrate, and 80% alcohol 190 proof mixture. If too strong, bring the dilution down to maybe 15%.

    Have FUN!

    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  5. #5

    Default Re: Ethanol + Hedione + Iso E ? Where to start...?

    In some fragrances, the iso-e is more. In some, the hedione is more. It depends on what kind of scent you want.

    I would go on the Perfumers Apprentice website and learn the Carles method. Use that approach to make the simplest accords with a selection of materials you like. Then go from there.

    You have to learn perfuming from the ground up. Get your fundamentals and building blocks down. Just keep learning something new every day.

    There are no quick and magical ways to learn. But I do think the Carles method teaches you how not to waste time. A person could flounder around for decades otherwise. His idea is just to methodically combine things. So I would combine that with other kinds of learning about perfumery. then when you get specific quesions, ask them here and we will help

  6. #6

    Default Re: Ethanol + Hedione + Iso E ? Where to start...?

    It is said that Hedione does not really smell much like anything, but that it has an effect on other aromas in the fragrance. What percentage would the floor be for such an effect?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Ethanol + Hedione + Iso E ? Where to start...?

    Hedione does have a smell; it smells light and floral with a hint of citrus. It is not that strong, however its effect is enormous. I think Eau Sauvage was the first fragrance to use Hedione, and it was there at about 0.5%. CK1 had about 30.0%. The only way to find out is to try it and see. Hedione's effect will be different depending on what else is there.

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