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  1. #1
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    Default Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Grant posted an article about it here:

    ”I'm particularly interested in S02E03 because of its progenitor's impact, vaster and deeper than it's almost possible to say. It changed the state of the art completely--violently in fact; before its launch it was either laughed at (there was simply no way people would want to smell like this any more than people would want to smell like makeup) or despised because this was--it was felt--an affront to the art, a stylistic degradation of it by the application of a shockingly inappropriate aesthetic.


    What it was in fact was the first great work of scent in one of the most important schools of art in the 20th century, a school that was used in music, painting, sculpture, and notably architecture, where it still has huge influence.


    Episode 03 is a very interesting and, in my view, successful work. Exactly as architects have done--I think of Tadao Ando and how he has brilliantly reconceptualized Le Corbusier's mid-20th-century shocking, brutal work into early-21st-century buildings with gentleness and humanity--the creative director and the artists they worked with have reconceptualized E03's proto-form to create a 21st-century evolution. E03 is deeply true to the sculptural form of its progenitor and yet reflects advances in materials and changes in culture and style. This is a tricky feat, both technically and aesthetically. And they've pulled it off beautifully.”

    I just bought my bottle. It's been a while since I participated in this, so I'm looking forward to it.

    Those interested - don't delay! Buy it @ Luckyscent here.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 24th July 2014 at 03:07 AM.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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  2. #2
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Anyone else participating in this?
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  3. #3

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Yes, got it... and its not my favorite.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I got mine today. I'm not very familiar with aquatics (not my cup of tea), but this one's nice. Is this Cool Water?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I got it too. I'm wondering if it may be one of the "summer-ized" Angel flankers.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I still haven't received mine
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  7. #7

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    DOH! I keep forgetting to play. Already sold out.

    Next one starts August 1st. I will need to make a note.
    Seasonal favorites:

    1. Creed - Spice & Wood
    2. Creed - Aventus
    3. Dior - Vetiver
    4.
    by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
    5. by Kilian - Cruel Intentions
    6. Puredistance - Black
    7. Brückner - Aoud 1
    8. Neela Vermeire - Trayee
    9. Creed - Royal Oud
    10. Chanel - Egoiste

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    My bottle just got here. Yep...fresh notes are stumbling out of the cap...
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 30th July 2014 at 07:42 PM.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  9. #9

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I got it today. I don't know anything at all about aquatics (they never interested me, and agree that it's an aquatic). This smelled immediately masculine to me.

    Gotta say I don't like it. Dougczar, if you pm me, I can send you some so you can join in.
    Last edited by Redhorse; 30th July 2014 at 10:40 PM. Reason: shortened post

  10. #10

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    The most obvious thing at the outset for me was a brutally realistic sweat note. Also, a nagging, "I know this scent." But getting back to the sweaty musk, smelling this just as it is, I'm a little shocked by its overtness in a commercial scent. As the citrus on the top fades, the sweaty underparts recede slightly for a nice spray of totally abstract, florals that are milky and not metallic exactly but hard like metal. They don't have the unsettling quality of those in Secretions Magnifiques; they are just kind of limpid and sweet. But their positioning against the uniquely sweaty base is very satisfying. This is simple but it has structure and balls. Or ball sweat, at any rate. Good stuff.

    At 40mins, it still has its shit together but is clearly progressing in a more generic, woody direction. The musk is increasingly less apparent but maybe because I couldn't stop sniffing for it. The denouement is not so remarkable.

    Possible spoiler ahead as I throw out my guess in anagram form....this blast from the 90's was "easily used (romeo hump)."
    Last edited by squats; 1st August 2014 at 02:57 PM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I did like the orange/peach, but it faded really fast on me. To ball sweat

    Now I feel better about not liking it! Thanks squats... Like you, I have smelt this before, and often, which means it must have been (agree w/ 90's) insanely popular. And usually worn in large amount by guys who were clubbing..at least that's the nose-memory.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Anyone else participating in this?
    I was really looking forward to getting in on this one, until I read Mr. Burr's description. It just didn't sound like something that I would enjoy. Now based off of the few reviews above I am happy that I did not participate. Aquatic sweaty balls? No thanks. Maybe the next one will seem more to my liking.
    Last edited by chili_willi; 31st July 2014 at 01:47 AM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    In all my years as a perfumista, I never delved into aquatics. Too much Calone in my youth. The only one in my collection is SL's L'Eau Froide, which I love. So when I tried this new mystery scent, it smelled so familiar, but no name popped into my head. I know I smelled it in the late 90s, early 2000s.... It was too in my face to enjoy on myself, but smelled very good on my DH. Long ago, he used to wear Japanese aquatics to work, so I suppose that's why I'm enjoying it on him, but not on me! Anyone who knows more aquatics want to hazard a guess? On Luckyscent commenters are mentioning Aramis New West and Cool Water.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Elf View Post
    Anyone who knows more aquatics want to hazard a guess? On Luckyscent commenters are mentioning Aramis New West and Cool Water.
    I feel pretty strongly about my guess, although I have been wrong when I was certain before. That is the fun part.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    from Luckyscent


    Chandler Burr: The Untitled Series
    S02E04

    S02E04 will launch on Aug 1st and be revealed on Sept 1st.
    "What constitutes pretty. I'd bet the creative directors of S02E04 had other abstract concepts more in mind, like beauty, and sexy, which are both firmly associated, though in two distinctly different ways. For women above a certain age, the question of pretty is often associated with youth, which is precisely what struck me the first time I smelled S02E04."

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I wore it all day yesterday. I don't think it smells metallic. Much more like water / sea / ozonic.

    I think I know what it is, but I won't mention it yet.

    My friend wears fresh/aquatic scents like this a lot, so at least I know who I can give my bottle to, when this is over.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  17. #17

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I don't smell metallic either. Or any wood. What I smell is citrus mix (orange, bergamot, coriander type stuff), aquatic, some random flower (geranium?) and an in your face pulsating (woonka chooka woonka chooka) musk mixture. It develops much differently on paper than on skin (mine at least). On paper the citruses are much more apparent, and if it stayed like that I'd like it better. On me, it goes pretty straight to the woonka chooka. I don't think I'd better wear this any more. It is making me nauseous, darn it!!!!

    I think squats is probably correct in his guess, based on the notes, the time-frame, my nose-memory of when/where it was worn, and its probable popularity....but I'm no master of the manly aquatics by any stretch of the imagination.

    I plan on leaving this in the men's bathroom at work after the reveal.

    Question for you guys: It was thought, before the launch of 03 that, nobody would want to smell like this any more than they would want to smell like makeup. What is the "this" you think they were talking about?

    Best I can think this stuff sorta smells like Tide laundry detergent. What do you think?
    Last edited by Redhorse; 11th August 2014 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Added question, fixed typos,

  18. #18

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I wish I had waited for S02E04 - it seems more likely to be a feminine. I know most of us have moved beyond gender-typing in scents, but when class of scents is embraced by a generation of young men, it becomes identifiable with them. This is the scent my 30-something asian coworkers leave lingering in the elevator.

    If anyone wants to play, you can have my bottle for the cost of shipping.
    Last edited by Perfume_Addict; 2nd August 2014 at 04:03 PM.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    To respond to Redhorse, I suspect the thing we didn't want to smell like at the time this scent's progenitor showed up was functional laundry products and cleaners in general. The sharp citrus, synthetic "aquatics" that smell nothing like water, and laundry musks are all big parts of functional perfumery. Now that functional perfumery and cosmetic perfumery have overlapped so very much, this scent is not shocking at all- we either love it or loathe it, it seems! Back in the early 90s I paid no attention to perfume at all, so I missed the early days of this genre (except for the ubiquitous CKOne, of course). It is kind of fun to go back to the early days of Issey Miyake and Cool Water and think about that particular direction of perfumery from a longer historical perspective....

    As a side note, I went ahead and bought the next one- but if it's Love's Baby Soft, I'm gonna feel like a nitwit!

  20. #20

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Elf View Post
    To respond to Redhorse, I suspect the thing we didn't want to smell like at the time this scent's progenitor showed up was functional laundry products and cleaners in general. The sharp citrus, synthetic "aquatics" that smell nothing like water, and laundry musks are all big parts of functional perfumery. Now that functional perfumery and cosmetic perfumery have overlapped so very much, this scent is not shocking at all- we either love it or loathe it, it seems! Back in the early 90s I paid no attention to perfume at all, so I missed the early days of this genre (except for the ubiquitous CKOne, of course). It is kind of fun to go back to the early days of Issey Miyake and Cool Water and think about that particular direction of perfumery from a longer historical perspective....

    As a side note, I went ahead and bought the next one- but if it's Love's Baby Soft, I'm gonna feel like a nitwit!
    Elf, I bet you are right. i was thinking too narrowly.
    I bought the next one too, because I am a glutton for punishment, and I blame Twolf's awesome blind sniffs. I am worried it might be Youth Dew. Guess we'll find out soon!

  21. #21

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Youth Dew! Oh no, I hadn't thought of that one....

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Youth Dew smells a heck of a lot better than S02E03
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Youth Dew smells a heck of a lot better than S02E03
    When is the reveal, Mike?

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    August 20th
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  25. #25

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    So I took the little bottle, printed out the Luckyscent info sheet, and had one of my male coworkers put both in the mens bathroom today with a note explaining what it was. They were very amused and intrigued. Now I wonder how many of them will smell like S02E03 tomorrow

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Redhorse View Post
    So I took the little bottle, printed out the Luckyscent info sheet, and had one of my male coworkers put both in the mens bathroom today with a note explaining what it was. They were very amused and intrigued. Now I wonder how many of them will smell like S02E03 tomorrow
    Very cool idea Redhorse. I wonder how many people thought it was a gag & how many actually took it seriously?
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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  27. #27
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Quote Originally Posted by Elf View Post
    ...On Luckyscent commenters are mentioning Aramis New West and Cool Water.
    I have owned both of those scents & I don't think S02E03 is either one of those. There is nothing familiar about this scent, in so far as I do NOT recognize it as something I've owned. I have smelled this scent. On other people. Which is why earlier I said I think I know what this is.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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  28. #28

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I gave S2 S3 to my 2 teenage sons. It's very male and mall-commercial-pedestrian to me. Not my fave. They like it though!

  29. #29

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    All the guys in my family like it, too. They'll use up the 15ml by Xmas, I think! It smells much better on them than on me.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I haven't smelled it, but Dave from the Fragrance Bros thought it was Eternity by CK. Sounds plausible considering what I've read so far.
    Fragrance blog being actively updated weekly (hopefully)!: http://moteperfumery.blogspot.com/

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  31. #31

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Chandler strongly hinted that it was a flanker, so I don't think it's Eternity. I'm going to unscramble my anagram now and say that my guess is L'Eau d'Issey.

    Quote Originally Posted by OctaVariuM View Post
    I haven't smelled it, but Dave from the Fragrance Bros thought it was Eternity by CK. Sounds plausible considering what I've read so far.

  32. #32
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Burr hinted it was a flanker? I'm missing that. EDIT: OK I re-read Burr's description above, I see what you mean...

    I don't think that S02E03 is very lavender prominent, and isn't Eternity For Men very lavender prominent in the top notes? It's been ages since I smelled it.

    The most prominent aspect of this scent, to me, is it's aquatic/watery presence. I must not be as sensitive to the musk in the basenotes, as some of you, because I don't get that lingering, animalic or human-body smell that you guys mentioned above. Which honestly doesn't surprise me, since many musks I just don't smell.

    This stuff is STRONG. One spray and really I don't need to spray more on, it's very radiant and present.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 10th August 2014 at 10:04 PM.
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  33. #33

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I'm anosmic to several of the macrocyclic musks and so for me, the synth-citrus and aquatic really jumps out and I don't get the sweaty part, either. The anosmia is one reason I really don't have many scents like this in my collection; I can't perceive a significant percentage of the composition.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Redhorse, very interesting experiment with setting it out for people to try. What's the result? Perfume Addict, thanks for sending yours on, it makes selling out less of a problem; I can only ask the brands and scent makers for so many bottles. Hollydebra and Elf, that the men in your family like it is proof of the power of the trope. It does have Calone. It isn't any of the fragrances anyone has guessed. Please remember that these aren't only about scents I think you'll like--although I think many will in fact want to wear S02E05--but about experiences, in this can an experience I assume no one participating has ever had. Again, it's about the date of this fragrance.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Redhorse, a crucial correction of something you wrote :<<Chandler Burr says "nobody would want to smell like this" any more than they would want to smell like makeup.>> That's more or less the opposite of what I wrote (on http://www.luckyscent.com/product/65...ntitled-series ) because it cuts off the first part of the sentence. I wrote, "It changed the state of the art completely--violently in fact; before its launch it was... laughed at (there was simply no way people would want to smell like this any more than people would want to smell like makeup)..." The crucial words are "Before its launch." Today, as Elf (among others) points out, men love to smell like this.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    "It changed the state of the art completely--violently in fact; before its launch it was... laughed at (there was simply no way people would want to smell like this any more than people would want to smell like makeup)..." The crucial words are "Before its launch." Today, as Elf (among others) points out, men love to smell like this.[/QUOTE]

    Thank you for the correction. I agree, it would be bad for people to misunderstand what you said. I'll be careful to quote you in the entirety in the future (shoot, got to go and check the next one now). I edited the original post so that it can't be misunderstood.

    I read all of your comment, and I understood what you were saying to be that 03 changed perfume because it made something "nobody would want to smell like" into something "everybody wants to smell like." When I asked the question (albeit poorly), I was wondering what is was everyone thought (before the launch of 03) that "nobody would want to smell like."

    Speaking of "everybody wants to smell like," the guys in my office must want to smell like 03. There was a significant dent in the bottle this morning, second hand reporting says the bathroom smelled like 03, and now (after lunch) it has gone missing entirely. I think that pretty much sums up their sentiment.

    When you do your reveal, I'll let them know what it is. I didn't get any comments from them on what they thought, but that's not surprising. Actions speak louder anyway.
    Last edited by Redhorse; 11th August 2014 at 06:22 PM. Reason: adding on intended follow-on

  37. #37

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Redhorse. Heterosexual men are seriously amazingly simple animals. They talk via their actions. They often can't talk by speaking. They know it when they see it but they couldn't tell you why. You'll really enjoy the reveal. And I'll pass this anecdote on to l'Oreal--they'll be very, very happy. (I would too. It's an elegant experiment.) When you find out what E03 is you'll be...impressed, maybe astonished at the power with which the original embedded itself in the American male subconscious and the American male's brain's pleasure centers.

  38. #38
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Chandler, is one of the 'notes' of S02E03 'seaweed'? Is the perfumer's first name five letters?
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  39. #39
    Basenotes Junkie kswer's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Quote Originally Posted by chandlerburr View Post
    Redhorse. Heterosexual men are seriously amazingly simple animals. They talk via their actions. They often can't talk by speaking. They know it when they see it but they couldn't tell you why.
    Wow, what a blanket statement. I would appreciate it if you refrained from absolutes. "A majority of heterosexual men..." would seem more appropriate if that is your viewpoint.

  40. #40
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Quote Originally Posted by kswer View Post
    Wow, what a blanket statement. I would appreciate it if you refrained from absolutes. "A majority of heterosexual men..." would seem more appropriate if that is your viewpoint.
    He's merely rounding up.

  41. #41

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Quote Originally Posted by kswer View Post
    Wow, what a blanket statement. I would appreciate it if you refrained from absolutes. "A majority of heterosexual men..." would seem more appropriate if that is your viewpoint.
    We can get a bit sensitive, but yes, some of us posters on Basenotes are cisgendered heterosexual males
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  42. #42

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    so when do we get to find out or does he just torture everyone indefinitely by withholding the answer?

  43. #43

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    August 20th. Only a few more days of torture

  44. #44

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I am extremely curious at this point! And, thanks to the males in my family, my bottle is almost empty....

  45. #45

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    <<Chandler, is one of the 'notes' of S02E03 'seaweed'? Is the perfumer's first name five letters?>>
    Mike, I don't know any of the notes, but the perfumer's first name has six letters.

  46. #46

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Hmmmm. I am not so sure about the flanker theory, Squats. Flankers wouldn't violently change the perfume world, would they? That's more the hallmark of an original perfume. And Mr Burr could be talking inspiration based on an original perfume, but he could also be talking about inspiration from an original from nature too.

    I think this cologne (I know, assumption here) is made from quality ingredients. Musks aside (personal bleuch) the rest of it is quite nice. I'm looking at the upper end of the price scale for this one. I don't think it's niche, but not inexpensive drugstore stuff, this.
    Last edited by Redhorse; 15th August 2014 at 09:59 AM. Reason: poor grammar

  47. #47

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I enjoy Mr. Burr's project very much. I think it is illuminating and exciting to experience perfumes strictly on the basis of their smell. I have sniffed and sniffed, much more than I have done ever before, as I wear these "Untitled" fragrances, trying to determine what I am smelling and what it means to me as I wear it.

    On first sniff, I immediately dismissed S02E03 because it was one of those ubiquitous manly aquatics that seem to define "masculine" perfumery for the general populace. BUT because it is "Untitled", because Chandler Burr chose it, because of what he wrote about it, because of this type of discussion on Basenotes, etc., I have worn it several times (in itself shocking because of the "manly aquatic" thing) and I'm wearing it yet again today. For ME this is exactly the purpose of the Untitled Series -- to get folks talking about structure and smell, taken on their own merits, right?

    I participated a few times in Season 1 and found those perfumes fascinating.
    I am very interested to discover what S02E03 actually is named and who created it.
    My plan is to participate as often as my budget allows.

  48. #48

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    What do you think about its structure and smell, Lorien? And what does it feel like wearing it?

  49. #49

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Am I the only person who gets a just little cocoa in the drydown? I never tried CK IN2U but I'm tossing it out as another guess.


    (Sorry Lorien, I'm hardwired to try to solve puzzles and suck at describing scents whether I know what they are or not.)

  50. #50
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    No I get no cocoa. Which one? The masculine one?
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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  51. #51

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I thought I smelled cinnamon in the dry down (wouldn't bet the farm on it though), but no cocoa.

  52. #52

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    No I get no cocoa. Which one? The masculine one?
    The men's. Not having actually tried it, it's just a wild guess based on the notes.

    I need a break from my diet if I'm smelling cocoa where there isn't any.
    Last edited by socalwoman; 16th August 2014 at 06:12 PM.

  53. #53
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    For a quick second in the top notes I get "fruit" and I would be hard pressed to say the particular type of fruit I'm smelling since it's sort of a tutti-fruitti-mish-mash sort of smell. But it lasts only seconds before I'm engulfed in watery/aquatic/seaweed smells.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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  54. #54

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    The more I wear S02E03 the more I am drawn to it and I can't say why. I'm quite surprised at this development. There is definitely a load of Calone in this number, and usually I am repulsed by it. Possibly because I have received numerous compliments on S02E03 (!) I have continued to wear it and allow myself to appreciate its structure and unfolding layers.

    My problem is that I am utterly terrible at parsing notes out of a composition. I smell Calone, I'm fairly certain. I smell some sort of musk and I smell something that is what I describe as breezy. There is a bitter edge that I sense which reads to me as grapefruit or bitter orange.
    SoCalWoman --- There might be a bit of cocoa lurking underneath everything. There is something vaguely powdery and dark but it is fleeting.

    Beyond these pitiful attempts at identifying what I smell, I'm at a loss. To my knowledge, I've never smelled S02E03 anywhere...

    Isn't scent perception so amazing? The molecules each of us smell may read quite differently to others. It is a mystery - but I'm enjoying the experience and find it fascinating. :-)
    Last edited by Lorien; 17th August 2014 at 04:37 AM.

  55. #55

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Mike, I have the same "engulfed" feeling from 03. Did you try on paper?

    Lorien, I too smell orange. For me that is followed by a velvety lushness that reminds me of peach flesh......more for the texture than the smell. Maybe that could be calone. Like you, I have a hard time parsing the notes. That's part of why I am doing these.....it is an intriguing puzzle. I want to know if the butler did it with the candlestick

  56. #56

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Chandler Burr, if you are there, I have a question I hope you can answer. It's about the series as a whole. When you are negotiating for the manufacture of a particular fragrance, can IFRA and EU restrictions be lifted so that the original formula can be used? Or do the perfume chemists have to remain IFRA compliant and come up with something as close to the original as they can?

  57. #57
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    I get the whiff of peach also Redhorse, I thought it was just me
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  58. #58

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    Redhorse <<I am not so sure about the flanker theory, Squats. Flankers wouldn't violently change the perfume world, would they? That's more the hallmark of an original perfume.>> That is, fascinatingly, why the progenitor of E03 is so interesting: It was a flanker, although almost no one remembers this today. And *its progenitor, E03's grandfather, disappeared like a stone thrown into a pond. In this rare case, the flanker was the revolution.

    <<I'm looking at the upper end of the price scale for this one. I don't think it's niche, but not inexpensive drugstore stuff, this.>> Since the reveal is tomorrow, I'll let you know something very interesting here: This is mass. Absolutely mass market. Its father is sold in drugstores. But you'll understand when you find out what its farther is. And E03 is really expertly done, isn't it, as sleek, expensively metalled, and precise as a costly men's watch.

    Lorien <<My problem is I am utterly*terrible*at parsing notes out of a composition. I smell Calone, some sort of musk, I smell something that is what I describe as breezy.... a bitter edge... might be a bit of cocoa... Beyond these pitiful attempts at identifying what I smell, I'm at a loss.>> Lorien, you're breaking my heart. I know it's tempting—and very fun—to “parse notes,” to deconstruct, to break down, to ID each piece. But, Lorien, you can't know how glad I am that your problem is deconstructing these works because the point of the Untitled Series is, precisely, not doing that. The purpose is to construct each work, to present it as a whole work and to have it experienced as a whole work. Please, I ask everyone, although it is legitimate to ID pieces of the machine when relevant—and I'll tell you right now that Calone is not in fact what you're smelling; it's another hugely influential synthetic—the “when relevant” is absolute: only in the service of understanding the work as a whole. Please think about each episode as a whole, as you would a Hopper painting or a Gehry building or a Green Day song. Describe what it does to you as a whole work. The ingredients don't have the impact on you. The work does. You don't wear the ingredients. You wear the work. As a whole.

    I'll add something else. <<To my knowledge, I've never smelled S02E03 anywhere...>> You haven't. No one here has.

    Elf <<Chandler, when you are negotiating for the manufacture of a particular fragrance, can IFRA and EU restrictions be lifted so that the original formula can be used? Or do the perfume chemists have to remain IFRA compliant and come up with something as close to the original as they can?>>

    I intended on starting this series to offer classics in the original non-IFRA versions. It turns out that each episode is so complex politically and logistically and so time-consuming that I haven't been able to see whether I can get that done. Yet. I hope to at some point in the future. Maybe the third season.
    Last edited by chandlerburr; 19th August 2014 at 10:39 PM.

  59. #59
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    The reveal has been posted on Luckyscent:

    The reason no one successfully guessed the identity of S02E03 is simple: No one could have. The scent you’ve been smelling the past weeks isn’t on the market yet. L’Oréal allowed me to launch it as an Untitled before it went on counter (which it will today). It’s the first time I’ve presented a scent before it went public and, as far as I know, the first time it’s ever been done.

    Many of you were very specific in your guesses about E03's raw materials. While I assume Calone plays some role here, I also assume the fresh/watery aspect has been sculpted out of materials newer than that old workhorse. And I have to admit to being surprised—unless I missed it—that no one brought up dihydromyrcenol, the molecule that undergirds laundry detergent's olfactory logo. E03's progenitor—it is a flanker—was loaded with it, and was thus the first and arguably greatest of a major new 20th-century school, Industrialism. So another surprise—again: While L’Eau d’Issey and Cool Water and others in the same school were proposed, nobody—except Beth B.—guessed Drakkar Noir.

    E03 is the brand new Drakkar Essence.

    Impressionism was initially laughed out of town (no one would want to look at that half-painted crap) or despised (it was the degradation of the medium); Drakkar Noir, by the estimable artist Pierre Wargnye, faced precisely the same two criticisms. Thirty years later we have, as with all art, so embraced the Industrialist school in scent that, like Impressionism, it is viewed as entirely normal, and what was cutting edge became—this is what success inevitably does—pretty but banal. New schools have reacted against impressionism in painting and Industrialism in scent. Then the cycle proceeds, and the old forms are revisited from future perspectives.

    With Essence, artist Michel Girard has created a work that seeks to take this revolutionary 1982 idea and push it forward into something that speaks in 2014 terms. Girard has succeeded. As Hollydebra wrote on Basenotes, “I gave E03 to my 2 teenage sons. It's very male…. Not my fave. They like it though!” Essence resonates in the 21st century like a building designed in the 21st century. I think of Kahn & Jacobs’ 1095 6th Avenue, a 41-floor skyscraper off Times Square finished in 1974, when it was admired. By 2006 it was frumpy. In 2007 the tower got a $260 million redesign. Kahn & Jacobs’ original elegant, perfectly-proportioned pillar was now cloaked in a glistening glass skin the color of emerald lizard skin. It is stunning. Take a look. Girard kept Wargnye’s expertly-structured Industrialist core—most prominently a material called dihydromyrcenol, the central structure of Tide laundry detergent’s olfactory logo—and cloaked it in a shimmering olfactory skin of sleek, shimmering blue-green. Drakkar essence smells as if it were covered in cooled blue glass.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 20th August 2014 at 05:09 PM.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  60. #60

    Default Re: Chandler Burr's Untitled S02E03

    [QUOTE=chandlerburr;3222505]
    Lorien, you're breaking my heart. I know it's tempting—and very fun—to “parse notes,” to deconstruct, to break down, to ID each piece. But, Lorien, you can't know how glad I am that your problem is deconstructing these works because the point of the Untitled Series is, precisely, not doing that. The purpose is to construct each work, to present it as a whole work and to have it experienced as a whole work. Please, I ask everyone, although it is legitimate to ID pieces of the machine when relevant—and I'll tell you right now that Calone is not in fact what you're smelling; it's another hugely influential synthetic—the “when relevant” is absolute: only in the service of understanding the work as a whole. Please think about each episode as a whole, as you would a Hopper painting or a Gehry building or a Green Day song. Describe what it does to you as a whole work. The ingredients don't have the impact on you. The work does. You don't wear the ingredients. You wear the work. As a whole.

    I'll add something else. <<To my knowledge, I've never smelled S02E03 anywhere...>> You haven't. No one here has.

    Mr. Burr -- This is the mystery of the thing .... In my mind, I'm doing just what you want me to do. I am experiencing the Untitled ones as a whole, but how I make sense of what I am "seeing" is to look at the individual brush strokes, the individual colors, and then step back to experience the "scent painting".

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