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  1. #1

    Default Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    I've been sampling a few lavenders lately. As soon as I smelled Kiki ( my sample is the parfum, not the VdE or EDP ), I knew this was the one: the "baby bear" lavender among many.

    I disagree with many reviewers - for that matter, its creator herself - on the atmosphere of Kiki. It's not light-hearted to my nose. The mood reminds me of a winter warm front after one of those spells of frigid, brilliantly clear weather. The clouds come in and it seems suddenly dull at first, but you feel the harshness leave the air, and the smells of plant life reemerge, and a pinch of the malice of winter nights dissipates. Kiki wonderfully straddles that same mood: an overlap of dour and comforting.

    As a fragrance, Kiki is both the least dramatic and original of the current line-up, yet that's by no means a strike against it. It seems to straddle an idyllic mid-point in the lavender spectrum, between the stony, metallic, and raw lavenders and the more sedate, tamed lavender-gourmands.

    There is a hint of burnt sugar, but don't let the word "caramel" put you off trying this one, as it did for me. This is not Pink Sugar; it's not Angel; it's not even one of those well-crafted - but none the less cloying - gourmands like Sucre d’Ebene or Praline de Santal. It's a glazing of lavender's spiky edges: lavender blurred and pixilated. The fruit is similarly an ensemble player, not even botanically identifiable to my nose, at least in the extrait: just a tartness; golden gilding around the edges.

    Most lavender fragrances share much of the same DNA, it's the modifiers around the outside of that lavender core that distinguish one from the other. Kiki is perched between Gris Clair and Caron Pour Un Homme in severity, and dries down at the half-way point between metal and powder, brassy rather than silvery by way of the caramelized drydown.

    If Kiki has an issue, it's that ( even in extrait ), it's delicate albeit long-lived for a lavender. It's so inviting I want to douse myself with it, so I could go through 7.5ml in seven wearings!

    As an aside, my mother loathes lavender fragrances of all kinds ( a legacy of my lavender-loving grandmother ), but happened to ask me "what's that great fragrance?" when I was around her the other day, much to my surprise.

    I've enjoyed exploring the line, and it grows in my eyes with each new formula and scent.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    It sounds wonderful and I now wish to try this from your description alone.

  3. #3
    Basenotes Junkie james1051's Avatar
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    I am a big fan of lavender fragrances generally and Kiki VDE in particular. It is at the very top of my list!

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    So nice to see a post from you sugandaraja, you've been missed.

    Kiki has been on my To Buy list since 2010. I think everyone knows what a big lavender fan I am and yet there are so many different variations on that accord it's amazing isn't it?

    I have tested the EdP and the Parfum - NOT the new VdP. The EdP has that passion fruit that mixed with the caramel and the lavender makes such an odd (and wonderful) combination. Suga, have you tested all three? If so, which one do you lean more towards?

    I love the caramel part of it - I will copy below what I said about it when I first tested it and started a thread on it:

    The Vero Profumo scents have a signature dark smell to them that I've smelled in Onda (extrait) - I will call it Veroade. It has a crisp, mentholated, slightly astringent quality to it, but dark. In Kiki it undercuts a fruity and pungent, aromatic accord that yes...after some time starts to slowly resemble lavender. And then all of a sudden in amongst the passionfruit, lavender and Veroade up pops up a warm caramel sweetness that is not too syrupy but still conjures up something edible (an iced lavender Caramel Machhiatto?).
    Thanks for reminding me about it. There really is no other lavender like this. Like you've already said, there's a slightly caramelic tang to the lavender in Caron Pour un Homme but it is nothing like Kiki. As I said on that thread, the scent that IMO more so resembles this is Hermessence Brin de Reglisse.
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  5. #5

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    I am only familiar with the VdE version, and I think it is probably my favorite Vero of all. I think most are fairly unpleasant, but this one, despite a slightly feminine opening, is an excellent fragrance.
    Seasonal favorites:

    1. Creed - Spice & Wood
    2. Creed - Aventus
    3. Dior - Vetiver
    4. by Kilian - Incense Oud
    5. Puredistance - Black
    6. by Kilian - Cruel Intentions
    7. Armani Privé - Oud Royal
    8. Brückner - Aoud 1
    9. Creed - Royal English Leather
    10. House of Matriarch - Blackbird

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Just tried the extrait again.

    Turin's review. including "strange lavender" "...the slight burnt-sugar off note of lavender absolute...masked by an accord of caramel and opopanax..." and "...fresh, slightly barbershop-retro..." made a lot of sense. Hell, I even smell an echoic drop or two of Rive Gauche pour Homme in there. :-) I'd probably never buy it. Pour un Homme is exceptional fragrance (probably an even better composition), and all I need for lavender; but Kiki is great stuff with that less sweet, burnt character. Love the good dose of high-quality musk. Really excellent fragrance.

    Vero Kern is a great perfumer. Sort of a modern day Germaine Cellier. Too bad her amazing Onda Extrait had to be reformulated. Not sure what it's supposed to be now, sort of an interesting shoe polish, but a far cry from the staggering leather chypre it was.
    Last edited by pluran; 8th August 2014 at 02:14 AM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    So nice to see a post from you sugandaraja, you've been missed.
    Thanks! I'm still around, just got sucked up into the FB world more than I used to be.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Kiki has been on my To Buy list since 2010. I think everyone knows what a big lavender fan I am and yet there are so many different variations on that accord it's amazing isn't it?
    Yes, I'm just newly "in" to lavender. I've never minded it as a note but it wasn't a big love until recently, when I realized I was really missing the lavender in my collection.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I have tested the EdP and the Parfum - NOT the new VdP. The EdP has that passion fruit that mixed with the caramel and the lavender makes such an odd (and wonderful) combination. Suga, have you tested all three? If so, which one do you lean more towards?
    Unfortunately my experience is very here and there with the Vero line, the only one I've tried in all three is Rubj ( which is probably my least favorite - ironically, given it's in my favorite genre of hefty, indolic florals ). I only know Kiki in parfum form. Having smelled Rubj and Onda in both parfum and VdE, though, I feel the VdE's are close enough to buy blind if you like the parfum and vice versa, where as the EDP's vary from different to entirely different fragrances.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Turin's review. including "strange lavender" "...the slight burnt-sugar off note of lavender absolute...masked by an accord of caramel and opopanax..." and "...fresh, slightly barbershop-retro..." made a lot of sense. Hell, I even smell an echoic drop or two of Rive Gauche pour Homme in there. :-) I'd probably never buy it. Pour un Homme is excellent and all I need for lavender, but Kiki is great stuff with that less sweet, burnt character. Love the big dose of high-quality musk. Really excellent fragrance.
    I have a mini of Pour Un Homme but have been finding it a bit too "mellow" for the lavender accord I'm seeking, where as stuff like Oxford & Cambridge was too harsh. Gris Clair goes a bit too "tinny" in the drydown for me, though it's approximately the right balance of powdery/bracing for my tastes, so Kiki hit just the right sweet spot.

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Onda Kern is a great perfumer. Sort of a modern day Germaine Cellier. Too bad that her amazing Onda Extrait had to be reformulated.
    I suppose luckily - or unluckily - I've never had the chance to try old Onda, as I'm inordinately fond of the current VdE ( this sample came with my bottle purchase of Onda ). Parfum too, but I just don't need Onda any more concentrated as it's already deadly potent in this "diluted" variant.
    Last edited by Sugandaraja; 7th August 2014 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Spelling!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    I have a mini of Pour Un Homme but have been finding it a bit too "mellow" for the lavender accord I'm seeking, where as stuff like Oxford & Cambridge was too harsh. Gris Clair goes a bit too "tinny" in the drydown for me, though it's approximately the right balance of powdery/brazing for my tastes, so Kiki hit just the right sweet spot.



    I suppose luckily - or unluckily - I've never had the chance to try old Onda, as I'm inordinately fond of the current VdE ( this sample came with my bottle purchase of Onda ). Parfum too, but I just don't need Onda any more concentrated as it's already deadly potent in this "diluted" variant.
    Sugandaraja,

    I relate with all of that.

    Kiki is an amazing fragrance. Same with Onda VdE. You can't go wrong with either of them. The Kiki Extrait I put on several hours ago is rich, diffusive and smelling great. I'm sure it will stay that way for quite awhile. These are really high quality fragrances.

    And it's great to see you around ! The place needs more great writers and perceptions like yours. :-)

  10. #10

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Spot-on review, Sugandaraja - glad you posted it here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    I have a mini of Pour Un Homme but have been finding it a bit too "mellow" for the lavender accord I'm seeking
    Have you tried the vintage Pour un Homme with the 'Les Plus Belles Lavandes' suffix? Much better, livelier lavender in it, and supported by some proper musk in the base.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    I definitely found a big difference between the VdE and parfum of Rubj, didn't like the VdE at all. Onda parfum and VdE were more similar, as were Kiki's versions. Kiki is my least favourite, but I am not a lavender fan so that is no surprise.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Count me in as a big fan of Kiki - I haven't tried the new VdE but both EdP and Extrait are on my 'to buy' list a little later in the year, along with Onda EdP and probably the VdE. I consider Vero Kern the most interesting perfumer working today, frankly.
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  13. #13
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Not only interesting, but excellent quality.
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  14. #14

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Quote Originally Posted by rowan- View Post
    Have you tried the vintage Pour un Homme with the 'Les Plus Belles Lavandes' suffix? Much better, livelier lavender in it, and supported by some proper musk in the base.
    Not yet! I find vintage a tad overwhelming, in truth - tracking down the right batches, etc. But I will now keep an eye out! I'd also heard good things about the "Impact" version.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    I was wearing this today and grabbed a lavender blossom ( it's not exactly a Provencal lavender field, but they use them everywhere here in Vancouver to line the main roads ) to compare and something odd struck me: the "caramel" note exists in lavender itself, in fact much of Kiki is just an unusually accurate portrait of lavender's facets, with some tweaks and buffers in there. Only the fruit sticks out as "other".

  16. #16

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    interesting.
    i picked up the caramel note as very prominent here. in fact, this is probably the best feminine scent i have ever smelled. hard to imagine htough myslef wearing it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    I was wearing this today and grabbed a lavender blossom ( it's not exactly a Provencal lavender field, but they use them everywhere here in Vancouver to line the main roads ) to compare and something odd struck me: the "caramel" note exists in lavender itself, in fact much of Kiki is just an unusually accurate portrait of lavender's facets, with some tweaks and buffers in there. Only the fruit sticks out as "other".
    offsite sales: http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=301

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  17. #17

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    I have the extrait of Kiki, Onda and Rubj and absolutely love them all it! I haven't tried the VDE versions but I had the impression that the VDE is very close to the parfum and it's advantage is that they can be sprayed. Is it fair to say the VDE's a watered down version of the parfum? I do find spraying parfum more convenient and hygienic than dabbing so is it fair to assume the VDE is a better option for people who prefer spraying?

  18. #18

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    can not speak about extrait vs vde, but i can say that the edp is a watered down version of the vde... any difference in structure i believe comes from less substance, not much different formula

    Quote Originally Posted by orchid74 View Post
    I have the extrait of Kiki, Onda and Rubj and absolutely love them all it! I haven't tried the VDE versions but I had the impression that the VDE is very close to the parfum and it's advantage is that they can be sprayed. Is it fair to say the VDE's a watered down version of the parfum? I do find spraying parfum more convenient and hygienic than dabbing so is it fair to assume the VDE is a better option for people who prefer spraying?
    offsite sales: http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=301

    current top 4 houses, random order: Vero Profumo, Slumberhouse, MFK, Roja Dove

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  19. #19

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Quote Originally Posted by mspa View Post
    can not speak about extrait vs vde, but i can say that the edp is a watered down version of the vde... any difference in structure i believe comes from less substance, not much different formula
    There are nuanced differences in the structure, particularly with the EDP versions where there is a tart passionfruit note employed up front amongst other things. I don't consider the EDP to be 'watered down' at all - it just plays a different tune.
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  20. #20

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Quote Originally Posted by mspa View Post
    can not speak about extrait vs vde, but i can say that the edp is a watered down version of the vde... any difference in structure i believe comes from less substance, not much different formula
    I think you might have mixed up the categories a bit. ( No worries, it happens. )

    Parfum Extrait = strongest concentration. This is how the line started out.

    Voile d'Extrait = the parfum formula in a weaker concentration, designed for spraying.

    Eau de Parfum = a different formula, with more emphasis on the top notes ( all in Vero's line having added peach or passionfruit ).

    While the parfum and VdE's tend to be extremely similar other than concentration, the VdE's/parfums can be quite a bit different from the EdP's.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Quote Originally Posted by orchid74 View Post
    I have the extrait of Kiki, Onda and Rubj and absolutely love them all it! I haven't tried the VDE versions but I had the impression that the VDE is very close to the parfum and it's advantage is that they can be sprayed. Is it fair to say the VDE's a watered down version of the parfum? I do find spraying parfum more convenient and hygienic than dabbing so is it fair to assume the VDE is a better option for people who prefer spraying?
    In my opinion, yes, they are a better option for those ( like me ) who prefer spraying. I have the Onda VdE and will likely be getting Kiki next.

    However, the formula being more dilute does change the scent just a little bit in how the top notes come out, though the drydowns smell essentially identical to my nose.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Cant you all just decant the Parfum into an atomizer and spray it on?
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  23. #23

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    i am comparing onda edp with vde. the edp is way lighter. it happened that i have tried the vde first.... the edp seems inferior, frankly. once i got the vde, the edp seems senseless to me now.
    never tried the extrait.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    I think you might have mixed up the categories a bit. ( No worries, it happens. )

    Parfum Extrait = strongest concentration. This is how the line started out.

    Voile d'Extrait = the parfum formula in a weaker concentration, designed for spraying.

    Eau de Parfum = a different formula, with more emphasis on the top notes ( all in Vero's line having added peach or passionfruit ).

    While the parfum and VdE's tend to be extremely similar other than concentration, the VdE's/parfums can be quite a bit different from the EdP's.
    offsite sales: http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic.php?t=301

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  24. #24

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Quote Originally Posted by mspa View Post
    i am comparing onda edp with vde. the edp is way lighter. it happened that i have tried the vde first.... the edp seems inferior, frankly. once i got the vde, the edp seems senseless to me now.
    never tried the extrait.
    I prefer VdE to EdP as well, but I'd happily own both: the EDP is lighter and the fruit notes are quite unique. It reminds me of the smell of crushed cape gooseberries; it's a much less serious - and more summery - perfume.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Cant you all just decant the Parfum into an atomizer and spray it on?
    You can, but:

    1. Some of the extraits are extremely concentrated. I'd spray Kiki, but Onda and Rubj can easily stifle one if over dabbed; I wouldn't spray them.

    2. The price per ml ratio is considerably better than parfum extrait. $310 for 15ml of extrait versus $250 for 50ml of VdE. Even assuming one applies double the amount of VdE, the parfum extrait gives one greater economy. ( I vacillated between Onda parfum and VdE and parfum, and opted for the former for this reason. )

    These are my reasons preferring VdE to parfum extrait formulation, but I'm all for wearing what you like, how you like!

  25. #25

    Default Re: Thoughts on Vero Profumo's Kiki

    Well thanks to a lovely gifted sample, my wish came true earlier than expected.

    I had forgotten this thread and have just been wearing the parfum for a while. I picked up citrus fruits but not caught the passion fruit. I had misinterpreted it as tangerine. I didn't get caramel but had thought it was tolu balsam which isn't so very many miles off. The lavender reads at first as a rose/iris combo at first because it was so fat and cuddly. I really love this at the start and I just like it as it goes along. It is a comfort scent.

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