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  1. #1

    Default Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Edit - this is now more of a 'general input/suggestions' on a woody beard oil conversation :-)

    Over the weekend I spent a lot of time acquainting myself with the issues surrounding sandwalwood oil.

    I understand that there are synthetics which are supposed to smell closer to the 'original' sandalwood scent.

    However, a lot of the discussions seem to be geared towards getting rid of the 'woodsy' scent in the current organic/plant based sandalwood essentials.

    For my uses, a woodsy scent is quite possibly preferred over a sweeter scent.

    Can anyone steer me in a particular direction here?

    My plan is to make an oil which consists of jojoba and argan oil as a base, and sandalwood, cedar, and vetiver along with possibly eucalyptus as scents.
    Last edited by SoBearded; 21st August 2014 at 11:18 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    I think there was a Sandalwood thread where Chris mentioned Cabreuva. You could look it up.. I'm not sure if Amyris is what you're looking for - it starts kind of smokey and ends like a cool Sandalwood. Or you could just add a cedary chemical to Sandalwood ones.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Thanks for the tip. I will search for the thread tonight.

    So far I have narrowed it down to two sources, neither of which I can link to since I'm a new member:

    mountainroseherbs.com/products/sandalwood-australian-essential-oil/profile

    This one is quite expensive, and only has australian sandalwood.

    heritageessentialoils.com/sandalwoods.php

    This is is cheaper, and is a mix of sandalwoods from multiple countries.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    I'm unclear, as I never heard of trying to get rid of woodiness. What is the specific goal?

    Norlimbanol I think is woody, but not just specifically sandalwood.

    What's wrong with naturals?

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    I cut my beard off today, got tired of being poked in the lip by bristle, lol.

    There are quite a few synthetics that attempt to mimic some aspect(s) of sandalwood, conducting a keyword search at any of the well known aroma chemical retailers will yield some good results. If it's the "creamy" aspect you seek from a true wood extract then I would indeed look at Cabreuva. When I first got my sample of cabreuva it was somewhat anosmic to it, it just smelled like milk. Now I'm getting the warmth and slight green-bitterness it imparts but the creamy aspect is still very much there. Amyris does have sandalwood aspects to it which is why it's used as a cheap substitute in skin-care products but it lacks the longevity and creamy aspects of sandalwood and I would describe it as being a bit more "woody" than sandalwood, somewhat cedary, in my opinion. By woody do you mean dry, dusty, bitter, green, musty, earthy, other?
    Last edited by JEBeasley; 12th August 2014 at 12:22 AM.
    Justin E. Beasley

  6. #6

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by DrSmellThis View Post
    I'm unclear, as I never heard of trying to get rid of woodiness. What is the specific goal?

    Norlimbanol I think is woody, but not just specifically sandalwood.

    What's wrong with naturals?
    I have nothing against naturals at all.

    Most of my research surrounding essential oils came across people looking for "sweet" smelling sandalwood. People's complaints seemed to be that they didn't care for the "woodsy" scent from current natural sandalwood oils.


    My specific goal is to come up with an essential oil mix that is very "woodsy" smelling but without much pine/fir.

    Think something like a well-used wood workshop, or even better, a seasoned humidor.

    Most "woodsy" beard oils have WAY too much pine/fir smell in them. They smell literally like a fresh cut christmas tree, which is ok for certain parts of the year but is not a good regular scent.


    I hope to find a quality sandalwood oil, and mix that with cedar and vetiver to get what I'm after.


    If it's not obvious, I am very green at this. So any input is appreciated, negative or otherwise!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by JEBeasley View Post
    I cut my beard off today, got tired of being poked in the lip by bristle, lol.

    There are quite a few synthetics that attempt to mimic some aspect(s) of sandalwood, conducting a keyword search at any of the well known aroma chemical retailers will yield some good results. If it's the "creamy" aspect you seek from a true wood extract then I would indeed look at Cabreuva. When I first got my sample of cabreuva it was somewhat anosmic to it, it just smelled like milk. Now I'm getting the warmth and slight green-bitterness it imparts but the creamy aspect is still very much there. Amyris does have sandalwood aspects to it which is why it's used as a cheap substitute in skin-care products but it lacks the longevity and creamy aspects of sandalwood and I would describe it as being a bit more "woody" than sandalwood, somewhat cedary, in my opinion. By woody do you mean dry, dusty, bitter, green, musty, earthy, other?
    Cut off your beard!? Trick with the mustache is grow it even longer until it pushes out to the side!

    Out of your list of adjectives I would say dusty, earthy, "sandalwoody" almost like the smell of US money maybe. With a hint of cedar in the background.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Sounds like you're looking for dry Cedar molecules, not Sandalwood molecules..

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    I think Nizan is on to something with the Amyris, it's inexpensive and has a warm, woody, dry, cedary-sandalwoody smell. Texas cedar is a very dry and aromatic cedar. If you need it to smell more creamy/voluminous/sandalwoody then add some sandalwood type of aroma chemical to it. If you want it "sweeter" then try a dab of vertofix, if you need sharper then try orange oil or rosemary which is excellent for conditioning hair.
    Justin E. Beasley

  10. #10

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    These are on the way:

    Amyris; Amyris balsamifera
    Sandalwood - Australian; Santalum spicatum
    Eucalyptus narrow leaf; Eucalyptus radiata
    Vetiver; Vetiveria zizanioides
    Cedarwood; Cedrus atlantica

    Plan to play with these with a base of jojoba and argan. Any suggestions on ratios and whatnot is most appreciated.
    Last edited by SoBearded; 14th August 2014 at 04:26 PM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    And I bought everything from eden botanicals. Seemed like a good, reliable place based on what I've read on here.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by SoBearded View Post
    These are on the way:

    Amyris; Amyris balsamifera
    Sandalwood - Australian; Santalum spicatum
    Eucalyptus narrow leaf; Eucalyptus radiata
    Vetiver; Vetiveria zizanioides
    Cedarwood; Cedrus atlantica

    Plan to play with these with a base of jojoba and argan. Any suggestions on ratios and whatnot is most appreciated.
    The ratios are determined by what you prefer, their application and also by the materials themselves as they can vary. Everything I've purchased from Eden has been good, no complaints.
    Justin E. Beasley

  13. #13

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Here's where I'm at:

    30ml total

    3 drops of eucalyptus
    5 drops sandalwood
    3 drops cedar
    2 drops vetiver
    1 drop amyris


    It seems very medicinal-ish smelling. I think it's the eucalyptus. Is it worth diluting with more carrier oil, or do you think I should start with a fresh batch?

    Carrier oil is 50% jojoba, 40% argan, 10% sweet almond.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Yes, it's the eucalyptus.

    at this tiny volume of concentrate (all of 14 drops), I would dilute your eucalyptus to 10% first, and use 1/10th of your previous formulation, to start, and then add more if necessary.

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  15. #15

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    If you want something slightly less medicinal as a top note then perhaps you could try Pine/Fir needle essential oil.
    Last edited by Pears; 20th August 2014 at 12:38 AM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Yes, it's the eucalyptus.

    at this tiny volume of concentrate (all of 14 drops), I would dilute your eucalyptus to 10% first, and use 1/10th of your previous formulation, to start, and then add more if necessary.

    PK

    Do you dilute the eucalyptus to get less than a drop into the blend?

  17. #17

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by Pears View Post
    If you want something slightly less medicinal as a top note then perhaps you could try Pine/Fir needle essential oil.
    That is a great idea. Is there any particular pine/fir essential that you think would be good for this mixture?

  18. #18

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by SoBearded View Post
    That is a great idea. Is there any particular pine/fir essential that you think would be good for this mixture?
    I like to have juniper in my "bag of tricks". It ls perhaps a but more multifaceted, for a piney smell. Another interesting, multifaceted note is black spruce. These are two of my faves, a bit more interesting to me than pine. Both have slightly muskier, richer aspects that make them more perfume-friendly, just in my opinion. Really, though, you just have to get a bunch of samples and try them.

    Sounds like you want to try some virginia cedarwood oil, though, as that's the cigar box thing -- the atlas, less so.

    Patchouli can enhance a woody note.

    Oud is another extremely interesting, multifaceted material that has a cigar box note -- really cigar boxes "wish" they could be oud.

    Other interesting "wood" notes include carrot, celery, caraway and dill seed oils. Those are to add a unique twist.

    A touch of ambergris, civet or musk can help a wood transcend itself to become more rich and perfumey.

    A touch of spice like clove can also add to a woody effect.

    Also an ionone like methyl ionone can add another dimension to a wood.

    Iso-e super can also greatly assist a wood accord.

    Norlimbanol, as I mentioned, is certainly a nice woody material to have in your arsenal.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by SoBearded View Post
    Do you dilute the eucalyptus to get less than a drop into the blend?
    Yes
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  20. #20

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by DrSmellThis View Post
    I like to have juniper in my "bag of tricks". It ls perhaps a but more multifaceted, for a piney smell. Another interesting, multifaceted note is black spruce. These are two of my faves, a bit more interesting to me than pine. Both have slightly muskier, richer aspects that make them more perfume-friendly, just in my opinion. Really, though, you just have to get a bunch of samples and try them.

    Sounds like you want to try some virginia cedarwood oil, though, as that's the cigar box thing -- the atlas, less so.

    Patchouli can enhance a woody note.

    Oud is another extremely interesting, multifaceted material that has a cigar box note -- really cigar boxes "wish" they could be oud.

    Other interesting "wood" notes include carrot, celery, caraway and dill seed oils. Those are to add a unique twist.

    A touch of ambergris, civet or musk can help a wood transcend itself to become more rich and perfumey.

    A touch of spice like clove can also add to a woody effect.

    Also an ionone like methyl ionone can add another dimension to a wood.

    Iso-e super can also greatly assist a wood accord.

    Norlimbanol, as I mentioned, is certainly a nice woody material to have in your arsenal.
    All great tips - thank you!!

    When you say juniper, is that the same as juniper berry?

  21. #21

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by SoBearded View Post
    All great tips - thank you!!

    When you say juniper, is that the same as juniper berry?
    Yes

  22. #22

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    DrSmellThis, as far as the ionones go, I only have experience with the irones of Orris...don't even know if that is technically an "ionone", but as you mention the latter, could you please describe for me how the ionones, methyl-ionone, etc., compare to the Irones in Orris? Thanks in advance.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Nizan, I have a fairly decent selection of naturals along the lines of the things that I personally prefer, and as well, find easier to use to produce the sort of things I like, yet, I have never bothered to order some inexpensive Amyris Oil. Mainly because I have always thought of it as having use only as an adulterant, or cheap substitute for Sandalwood. Reading your comments about it has me realize that it has possibilities more than just those just mentioned, and could be something that I might find useful,. Seems I should at least be familiar with it, which I am not currently. So, now another thing to order. I suppose I can take consolation in the fact that this one will at least be on the less expensive side.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    As a newbie to all this, the amyris I ordered from eden botanicals had a pleasing but very "smoky" scent compared to the australian sandalwood.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Thanks SoBearded...sounds like it is something I should have in the "library".

  26. #26

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by islearom View Post
    DrSmellThis, as far as the ionones go, I only have experience with the irones of Orris...don't even know if that is technically an "ionone", but as you mention the latter, could you please describe for me how the ionones, methyl-ionone, etc., compare to the Irones in Orris? Thanks in advance.
    I've not yet tried irone from orris. I think any ionone can be paired with a woody accord. Alpha ionone is a constituent of sandalwood, but try them all, or whatever you have.
    Last edited by DrSmellThis; 21st August 2014 at 10:22 PM.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    For the best beard whiff, short of Mysore, there is nothing to better just the tiniest stroke of the best oud. You don't need to go heavy. Royal Kampuchea is a beauty. You won't need to mix anything. It is all in one. Also I am not advising you to buy tons. Just a ml will last a very long time because you don't need much. (I'm sorry in advance because it is an addictive pursuit and expensive once you go there though).

  28. #28

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by mumsy View Post
    For the best beard whiff, short of Mysore, there is nothing to better just the tiniest stroke of the best oud. You don't need to go heavy. Royal Kampuchea is a beauty. You won't need to mix anything. It is all in one. Also I am not advising you to buy tons. Just a ml will last a very long time because you don't need much. (I'm sorry in advance because it is an addictive pursuit and expensive once you go there though).
    Hm, I am intrigued. But it appears to be sold out. http://agaraura.com/royalk.html

    It is acceptable to mix this with a jojoba/argan base? For my purposes it is not only for scent but also beard health.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Almost everywhere I read about using essential oils they recommend mixing no more than 14 drops of essential with 30ml/1oz of carrier or else you risk skin irritation and other issues.


    I am up to ~20 drops pr 30ml to get the scent I'm after. I'm not reselling this but I am giving some to friends and family. I don't want to cause any irritations with people. Thoughts?

  30. #30

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Oops. It is one of many wonderful ouds. It was a much lighter one though. If you have a wallet that can accommodate such things, then Taha is very helpful.

    It can be mixed but I would suggest oiling the beard and then applying just a tiny stroke. Who am I to say though. I don't have a beard...... not yet anyway.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    I'm about to place another order for some essentials to try

    Any suggestions or input as to which frankincense to use? I want to try it, as it's often in commercial beard oils, but the descriptions of these are all very similar.


    Frankincense Frereana - Organic

    Frankincense, Oman

    Frankincense, Oman - Rare

    Frankincense, Somalia

    -and- rosemary:

    Rosemary ct Cineole

    Rosemary ct Verbenone (in stock soon)

  32. #32

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Also curious if anyone has tried oakmoss absolute. According to this page it has to be VERY diluted. But, the description of the scent sounds very appealing.

    http://www.edenbotanicals.com/produc...-absolute.html

    Earthy-rich notes of moss, with slight undertones of wood and pine with excellent tenacity. Reminiscent of a walk in an old forest.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by DrSmellThis View Post
    Alpha ionone is a constituent of sandalwood...
    Did not know this... is there a reference you can remember?

  34. #34

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I have never heard that alpha Ionone is found in Sandalwood. I think if it is found there it has been added.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    alpha-ionone is in Lebanon cedarwood and if I remember correctly also in Atlas cadarwood.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade View Post
    Did not know this... is there a reference you can remember?
    I'll try to look it up, but pretty sure I got it from a GC-MS, one of the more thorough ones with a long list of chemicals.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Is alpha-ionone and alpha-irone the same thing, with different spellings/names, or different molecules?

  38. #38

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Quote Originally Posted by islearom View Post
    Is alpha-ionone and alpha-irone the same thing, with different spellings/names, or different molecules?
    Different molecules.

  39. #39

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post
    I have never heard that alpha Ionone is found in Sandalwood. I think if it is found there it has been added.
    Perhaps it was beta ionone that was remembered; that one has turned up ( http://www.researchgate.net/publicat...andalwood_tree _ )

  40. #40

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I wasn't able to open the article so cannot be sure.

  41. #41

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Whilst it is impossible to prove the absence of something; none of the papers I have read mention the presence of Ionone in Sandalwood Oil. If there is some there, then it will be there at damn-all percent as the vast majority of chemicals is made up of Santalols, and Santalenes.

  42. #42

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Sandalwood Givco sure smells like it's got ionones in it...

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  43. #43

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Quote Originally Posted by SoBearded View Post
    I'm about to place another order for some essentials to try

    Any suggestions or input as to which frankincense to use? I want to try it, as it's often in commercial beard oils, but the descriptions of these are all very similar.


    Frankincense Frereana - Organic

    Frankincense, Oman

    Frankincense, Oman - Rare

    Frankincense, Somalia

    -and- rosemary:

    Rosemary ct Cineole

    Rosemary ct Verbenone (in stock soon)
    I can't help you with the different types of frankincense but the best rosemary oil comes from the verbenone chemotype. It has an aroma much more like the fresh plant and it is the best type for cosmetic purposes.

  44. #44

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post
    Whilst it is impossible to prove the absence of something; none of the papers I have read mention the presence of Ionone in Sandalwood Oil. If there is some there, then it will be there at damn-all percent as the vast majority of chemicals is made up of Santalols, and Santalenes.
    Unfortunate that the link didn't work; possibly the free full text is members only although I'd thought it was available to everyone.

    In any case the GC agrees with you: what is reported for beta-ionone is "trace," while quantitation of other compounds went down as low as 0.06%. So by trace I'd guess they did indeed mean trace.

  45. #45

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    The link works for me, but it only shows the abstract.

  46. #46

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I guess one has to sign up (it's free.) I had mistakenly thought that on clicking further on the "full text" picture of the journal cover, it would work for everyone but apparently that was wrong.

  47. #47

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Paul very kindly sent me the full article. That's the first time I have ever seen evidence for the presence of Ionone in Sandalwood Oil. You learn something new every day; and I'm sure that the trace amount found will make a huge difference to the odour.

  48. #48

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I tried signing up for access to full texts at the ResearchGate site in the past, but was refused as they require members to have had articles that have been published (in scientific journals and such, I believe). Bill, what did you use as a reference for published material, as per their requirements?

  49. #49

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I don't recall that I had to do so, but if I did it would have been papers I was coauthor on as a grad student.

    If I had remembered that then I would have realized the link would prove useless, but I just didn't. Just remembered it as being free.
    Last edited by Bill Roberts; 22nd August 2014 at 07:38 PM.

  50. #50

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I think you can easily sign up for Researchgate if you have an educational email address, like ending in .edu

    That's certainly how My wife got me on, it's her membership, not mine.

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  51. #51

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    The perfumery product is sandalwood oil, not absolute. The oil has a much higher proportion of santalol, and maybe the ionone is present in oil in even smaller quantities than in the absolute, or is absent?

  52. #52

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    It's definitely true that one GC/MS may find things that another did not, for example from the sample being different.

    The above was of sandalwood oil from a particular tree at the Indian Institute of Technology. No alpha ionone was found in this example; I can't now find an example where it was but that doesn't mean it cannot have been found. The amount of beta ionone was probably less than 1 ppt; myself I'm sure I couldn't tell the difference between formulas where one has 1 ppt beta ionone and another does not.

  53. #53

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Sorry, things are hectic at present, and I havent done the research I wanted to for this thread. Thanks to others who have continued the discussion without me and found articles.

    I was actually surprised to hear about beta ionone, because I remember specifically it being the alpha. I had assumed it was common knowledge, just due to my own lack of knowledge about the chemistry of aroma compared to many others involved in perfuming.

    This is going further out on the limb, but what the heck -- my general impression at the time was that it was not an insignificant amount, though certainly not among the major constituents either. I believe I even once calculated how much ionone to use in a sandal perfume based on that, but never made the perfume. So I didn't think it was less than 1/1000 of the concentrate. Just a wild guess at remembering, maybe it was about 5/1000? Please don't quote me on that, as I could well be mistaken -- just think of it as something to wonder about. I wish I could remember more. Sorry. I did just try Googling it several times to no avail.

    I also saw there was alpha, beta and methyl ionones in tobacco, and both alpha and beta in blackberry. Those both surprised me a little bit too, as regards ionones.
    Last edited by DrSmellThis; 23rd August 2014 at 08:31 AM.

  54. #54

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Quote Originally Posted by arion View Post
    The perfumery product is sandalwood oil, not absolute. The oil has a much higher proportion of santalol, and maybe the ionone is present in oil in even smaller quantities than in the absolute, or is absent?
    Or maybe it was just an artefact, and not really there at all.

  55. #55

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I’s vey possible. I expect that distilled oil will differ in composition from an extract (absolute), the thing those guys analyzed. At the one hand, if b-ionone is or not an artefact of the experimental procedure, at the reported concentration it is of no importance. At the other hand, I will interpret traces of phenols in sandalwood oil, not reported from the absolute, as a ‘certificate of authenticity’ even if they are extraction artefacts. Yet, much more important, there are many possible errors close to the detection threshold of any device, so that I would not jump to conclusions about antibacterial properties, or generalize to sandalwood as a medicine, but wait for confirmation, replication, etc.

  56. #56

    Default Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Quote Originally Posted by DrSmellThis View Post
    I was actually surprised to hear about beta ionone, because I remember specifically it being the alpha. I had assumed it was common knowledge, just due to my own lack of knowledge about the chemistry of aroma compared to many others involved in perfuming.

    This is going further out on the limb, but what the heck -- my general impression at the time was that it was not an insignificant amount, though certainly not among the major constituents either. I believe I even once calculated how much ionone to use in a sandal perfume based on that, but never made the perfume. So I didn't think it was less than 1/1000 of the concentrate. Just a wild guess at remembering, maybe it was about 5/1000? Please don't quote me on that, as I could well be mistaken -- just think of it as something to wonder about. I wish I could remember more. Sorry. I did just try Googling it several times to no avail.
    A really important detail, so easy to miss and it certainly happens to me, is what the source was. There are GC/MS papers authored in Asian countries (probably elsewhere as well, but particularly common here) which use a commercial source which they assume to be authentic and unspiked but they did not prove to be.

    An example I recently read was J Health Res 27 2 2013, from which one might take jasmine sambac oil to contain 9.65% benzyl propionate.

    But they bought the oil commercially.

    It's supposed to be a serious paper on the effects of inhalation of jasmine oil on brain wave activities and emotions, but they could not even take the trouble to obtain an authentic sample. All too common unfortunately.

    As the alpha ionone paper cannot be found at least at the moment, it strikes me as more likely that the authors of that paper were similarly careless than that you misremembered.
    Last edited by Bill Roberts; 23rd August 2014 at 04:55 PM.

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    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 9th May 2008, 08:50 PM

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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000