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  1. #31

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Olibanum Resinoid - I burn a lot of incense. One day a friend told me that there are incense perfumes, which is how my journey into perfumery started.

    Dorinia SA E - Waxy and great all on its own.

    Irone Alpha - I like the way it combines with rose absolute.

    Black Agar (G) - Reminds me of when I taught English in Abu Dhabi. They burned the stuff everywhere, and my students often wore oud fragrances.

    Opoponax Absolute - I had some of this material from Hermitage until I somehow lost it. Anyway, it's probably my favorite balsamic note. It smells sort of like toast.

    Bisabolene (G) - This smells like Assateague Island, which is where I went to the beach as a boy.

    Rose Absolute - Rose is beautiful and I've been trying to develop a decent rose perfume for a while now (unsuccessfully).

    Balsam Fir Absolute - I would use this in a perfume all on its own if it didn't make my skin all sticky and stain my clothes.

    Iso E Super - As a student of the incense genre, I find myself working with this material all the time. I also wear it on its own.

    Methyl Ionone Alpha - So far this is my favorite of the methyl ionones.

  2. #32

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by nicok View Post
    Mastic (lentisque) - Sweet and resinous. Can't live without it. Memories from my country.
    Where do you get your Mastic oil? I can't find it anyware.
    Life imitates art.

  3. #33

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by irispallida View Post
    Where do you get your Mastic oil? I can't find it anyware.
    To Nicok as well:

    I got some mastic when I was in Greece a couple years ago. I have a small bag of resin nuggets. I find that these dissolve readily in 95% ethanol. However, when you put it on skin it leaves a gummy sticky residue. It smells best when you rub it. I like the smell and would love a way to have the smell without the sticky residue, so like irispallida I look forward to your answer as to where we can get this mastic oil.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    White Lotus Aromatics offers Mastic absolute "Lentisque", Scents of the Earth offers Mastic Gum Resin in two versions, crushed or as chunks. The fragrance of the absolute is entirely different from that of the resin.

  5. #35
    Super Member nicok's Avatar
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by irispallida View Post
    Where do you get your Mastic oil? I can't find it anyware.
    Sorry for the late reply.

    Mastic (the real thing) is produced only in the island of Chios, Greece.
    Nowhere else in the world.
    I talk about the Chia variation of Pistacia lentiscus tree that gives this special resin.
    Other variations of Pistacia lentiscus can survice in Morocco, Israel, or France, but this special one only in Chios, and in fact only in the south of the island.

    The mastic resin, oil and products are distributed by the Union of producers of Mastic of Chios.

    U can get mastic products (and the precious oil) from mastiha shops in Greece. http://www.mastihashop.com/
    This is where I get mine as I visit the country few times per year. Unfortunately they don't ship abroad I think.

    I have never tried the mastic absolute though! I'm very curious now. But White lotus doesn't post to Europe!

    @bshell: The tincture u made is indeed sticky and less strong of course compared to the oil.

    The oil is very mobile, very strong and I would classify it as a top not. Only a touch of it gives a nice top note to incenses or woody accords

    - One more update: From some further research I found that the absolute is produced from the twigs, branches and leaves of the plant and not from the precious gum!
    So I expect it will be very different to mastic oil, which is a steam distillation of the gum.
    Last edited by nicok; 27th January 2015 at 01:05 PM.

  6. #36

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Cetalox: Very smooth and diffusive..
    Javanol: IMHO one of the most brilliant ingredients
    Osmanthus absolute organic: smells like a breathe from paradise
    Givescone: spicy,fruity
    East Indian Sandalwood: sweet,grounding scent
    Cedryl Acetate: Very mild, quite unobstrusive
    Sassafras Oil: spicy,anisic and a little bit medicinal
    Red Pepper Berries Absolute (Schinus terebinthifolius): a sweet,peppery scent with honey note
    Kephalis: A diffusive tobacco note paired with Cedarwood Oil
    Ethyl-Vanillin: Brings a little happiness in a fragrance
    Last edited by Boja; 27th January 2015 at 03:54 PM.

  7. #37

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Cetalox: Very smooth and diffusive..
    Javanol: IMHO one of the most brilliant ingredients
    Osmanthus absolute organic: smells like a breathe from paradise
    Givescone: spicy,fruity
    East Indian Sandalwood: sweet,grounding scent
    Cedryl Acetate: Very mild, quite unobstrusive
    Sassafras Oil: spicy,anisic and a little bit medicinal
    Red Pepper Berries Absolute (Schinus terebinthifolius): a sweet,peppery scent with honey note
    Kephalis: A diffusive tobacco note paired with Cedarwood Oil
    Ethyl-Vanillin: Brings a little happiness in a fragrance

  8. #38

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by irispallida View Post
    Where do you get your Mastic oil? I can't find it anyware.
    Reviewing this thread, I realize that I provided information on mastic in every form except for the form that irispallida had inquired about. The EO of mastic (PISTACIA LENTISCUS) can be obtained from Liberty Natural.

    Edit: Now also available from WLA.
    Last edited by islearom; 31st January 2015 at 10:13 PM.

  9. #39

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Regarding Mastic, and in response to Nicok...

    In fact the Mastiha Shop in Greece has an online site, with English, and it appears you can order from them. However I was not able to figure out if they ship outside the country. I've sent an enquiry via email. It appears you can get 5ml or 10ml bottles of the Mastic EO for about 24€ and 48€ respectively.

    I wonder how they make it? Maybe solvent extraction of the resin?

  10. #40
    Super Member nicok's Avatar
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by bshell View Post
    Regarding Mastic, and in response to Nicok...

    In fact the Mastiha Shop in Greece has an online site, with English, and it appears you can order from them. However I was not able to figure out if they ship outside the country. I've sent an enquiry via email. It appears you can get 5ml or 10ml bottles of the Mastic EO for about 24€ and 48€ respectively.

    I wonder how they make it? Maybe solvent extraction of the resin?

    No it is steam distillation.

    This is the page of the mastiha growers association for further information.

    Something also worth mentioning is that once diluted to ethanol the dilution is a bit blurry. After time this becomes less.

  11. #41

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Nicok, is the distilled oil of the resin Mastic similar in odor to that of frankincense EO? I ask as the scent of the resin reminds me of a milder version of the (already mild) scent of the resin of Frankincense. Also, in the database at essentialoils.org, I notice that both mastic resin and frankincense (of Oman, the EO, I think, though am not certain from the writeup at the site) are both high in alpha-pinene.

    The product from Greece that you mention does sound very special.

    Editing this for the umpteenth time, I just opened a bottle of tincture of Mastic that I first prepared five months ago, and find that it is quite pleasant smelling, much like tincture of frankincense, and as mentioned earlier in this thread, sticky as anything.
    Last edited by islearom; 27th January 2015 at 06:37 PM.

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    The mastic I have is from Greece, at least the vendor says so. Don't know if it's the one from Chios. In comparison my frankincense tincture smells like dusty citrus while mastic is more fruity-floral.

    I often tried to use it in blends but after nicok's comment I assume I was overdosing it.
    liaison carbone
    RAW MATERIALS FOR PERFUMERY

  13. #43
    Super Member nicok's Avatar
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by islearom View Post
    Nicok, is the distilled oil of the resin Mastic similar in odor to that of frankincense EO? I ask as the scent of the resin reminds me of a milder version of the (already mild) scent of the resin of Frankincense. Also, in the database at essentialoils.org, I notice that both mastic resin and frankincense (of Oman, the EO, I think, though am not certain from the writeup at the site) are both high in alpha-pinene.

    The product from Greece that you mention does sound very special.

    Editing this for the umpteenth time, I just opened a bottle of tincture of Mastic that I first prepared five months ago, and find that it is quite pleasant smelling, much like tincture of frankincense, and as mentioned earlier in this thread, sticky as anything.
    Yes, this is true. The closest to mastic oil is frankincence oil. They both have large amounts of alpha pinene. Frankincense oil is way more lemony though. Also mastic oil has a sweet aspect that is not present to frankincense oil.

  14. #44

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    After reading Graphite's description of the scent of Mastic, I went back again to my tincture of same and gave it a more careful examination...on paper this time, as opposed to on the skin as was the case on the prior occasion about which I commented. And as both Graphite and Nicok describe, I do find the Mastic tincture more sweet, fruity/floral, in comparison to my Frankincense tinctures. I might have to add Mastic as one of my top ten favorites, but am not sure at the time of this writing as to which one I would have to remove. More importantly, I think I have to provide more time and thought to my examination of various aromatics before attempting to describe them.

  15. #45

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Hello,

    about the Mastic:
    I also have it quite some time in my inventory and everytime i smelled it i struggled to get an impression where i before smelled that kind of scent.
    To me it never reminded me of frankincense it has a subtle slightly sweet smell with some hints of light-colored wood maybe and light airy resins if there are something like light-resins out there.
    But after i smelled it more and more there was something in my head which sayd: "you know that smell already..."
    Going far back in memory and to my childhood i resumed the smell was in the rooms from my great-grandmother.
    Maybe i have an explanation which it came from:
    My great-grandmother had these beautiful old furnitures not these nowadays throwaway things pressed from sawdust..., these old furnitures had a nice gloss-coating.
    I could imagine that they used some diluted mastic for the glosscoat like maybe a violin-manufacturer uses shellac for coatings.
    other explanation to me would be:
    She was very catholic and had gone to the tiny church regulary, maybe the priest sometimes also burned the mastic with the frankincense.
    But if so as i know frankincense is not burned on an regular base every week.
    Also it everytime smelled of mastic when i was in the rooms from my great-grandmother and if it would be trapped in her clothes from the church it hadn't been smelled soo long in the rooms...
    She also had an old coal-oven running in her room the whole day sometimes with regular mining-coal and often also with hard-coal.
    As her man was a coal-miner also in the cellar there was permanent coal storage.
    Maybe but more faraway there could be something in the hardcoal that has a slight sweet smell as i remember in the damp cellar it smelled something light sweet the whole time.
    Not to confuse with charcoal which to me smell more smoky/birchtary when burned.

    so not to drift away here my most unique/loved perfume materials:

    Damascenone-Total/alpha/beta...the heavenly superpowers

    gamma-Decalactone....................lovely apricot,clearer/not so creamy than C-14

    Buccoxime....................................black-currant, lovely light powdery but also clear on the other hand

    Bucho-Mercaptan.....black-currant plutonium-stick,diluted etheral minty cassis with green gooseberry

    Oxane.......................................... strong sour,sulfury Passionfruit/Maracuja

    Furfurylthiol.................................. roasted coffee in right dilution, otherwise like burned rubber.

    Ethylmaltol......................versatile gourmander,strawberry caramel, comes close Strawberry-Furanon

    Musk-Keton..................................powdery, slightly sweet/spicy also,sophisticated

    Exalton...............even nicer than the Musk-Keton with a nice floral/slight fruity airy/etheral note to me

    Styrallylacetat...........nice rhubarb going on, have old sample which smells rounder than a fresh one


    Greetings:

    Hondo
    Last edited by Hondo; 28th January 2015 at 11:37 PM.

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    1 Dihydro-mercenol
    2 Alyl Amyl Glycolate
    3 Ambroxan
    4 Sandalwood
    5 Vetiver (Sri Lanka)
    6 Lavender
    7 Hedione
    8 Cedar(s)
    9 Jasmine(s)
    10 Benzoin
    10.5 ISO E Super

  17. #47

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Mastic gum is a wonderful ingredient not only for perfumery (actually, only recently it has been used widely as a fragrance note) but mainly for edible creations. In Greece we have a lot of pastries that combine mastic's unique odor and taste with other spices such as cinnamon, cardamom etc. Traditionally used in its gum form (crashed and pulverized) but also as an essential oil, where only 3-4 drops are more than enough to fragrance a confection. I definitely cannot relate it to frankincense in terms of odor. Where frankincense is lemony and usually offensive in a blend, mastic has a more "round" and subtle woody-balsamic smell . Living in Greece I have to say that Mastiha Shop is an expensive and not necessarily quality retailer for mastic oil.
    My list now :
    Olibanum
    Cedarwood (all kinds)
    Labdanum
    Myrrh
    Tobacco (abs)
    Ambroxan
    Coumarin
    Hedione
    Fir balsam
    Kephalis

  18. #48
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    In order of preference
    1) ISO E SUPER
    2) BENZOIN ABS
    3) MIRRH
    4) KEPHALIS
    5) GALAXOLIDE
    6) METHYL IONONE
    7) AMBROXAN
    8) HEDIONE
    9) LAVANDER ABS
    10) VANILLIN

  19. #49
    Super Member nicok's Avatar
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by evinick View Post
    Living in Greece I have to say that Mastiha Shop is an expensive and not necessarily quality retailer for mastic oil.
    Evenick, the mastic oil mastiha shop is selling is from the mastic growers association and is the only original mastic oil.
    Personally I don't know any other retailer selling mastic oil in these quantities.

  20. #50

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by nicok View Post
    The closest to mastic oil is frankincence oil.
    Well I don't detect any similarity between the two, not in the slightest. Mastic smells more like pine and cedarwood, but yes, it has a sweet, gummy and rounded vibe. Perhaps EO has different kind of aroma profile than the real thing?
    Life imitates art.

  21. #51
    Super Member cybervoltage's Avatar
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    I stuck with naturals on my list - could come up with another list of top ten synthetics:

    1) Neroli
    2) Petitgrain
    3) Bergamot
    4) Labdanum (resinoid)
    5) Artemesia Absinthium (Wormwood)
    6) Clary Sage
    7) Orris (butter / absolute)
    8) Vetiver
    9) Tonka Bean Absolute
    10) Myrrh (Somalia)

  22. #52

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    All I can say is that you can never be sure whether an EO is pure or dilluted...unless for once, you smell the real thing. And 48 for 10grs...?
    Quote Originally Posted by nicok View Post
    Evenick, the mastic oil mastiha shop is selling is from the mastic growers association and is the only original mastic oil.
    Personally I don't know any other retailer selling mastic oil in these quantities.

  23. #53
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Evinick, can you recommend a shop in Greece that carries mastic resin and/or eo and that ships within Europe? The mastiha shop is in comparison to my sources in Germany quite reasonable regarding the pricing.

    Thank you!
    liaison carbone
    RAW MATERIALS FOR PERFUMERY

  24. #54

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Mine are in no particular order

    Frankincense resinoid (all and any kinds), because it gives grace and gravitas to anything and simply makes me happy
    Hedione (Firmenich), because it's a wonderful filler of an abstract floral without taking over
    Vanillin ex lignin, because it embodies the smell of books
    Valencene biotech, because it's such a nice happy easy going Fanta scent
    Spearmint absolute (Robertet), because it makes any blend shine brighter
    Australian sandalwood (Robertet), because it's such an easy all around woody blender
    Ambergris Essence (IFF), because it's a great fixative and smells of pure seasalt
    Labdanum absolute (all and any kinds), because it's cozy and warm, like fur
    Methyl Diantilis (Givaudan), because carnations are my favorite flowers and it reminds me of gardening
    Velvione (Givaudan), because it gives a velvety feel to anything and has amazing longevity while keeping quiet
    Hi Irina, I know this is a very old thread but do you know where I can purchase vanillin ex lignin? (I love the smell of books, old bookstores are wonderful...we had a local one that closed and I miss the smell!)

  25. #55

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Most Vanillin available is made from either Lignin or Gaiacol. The only difference, that I could find, is that Vanillin ex Lignin contains a small amount of Acetovanillone. Vanillin from either source will smell pretty similar.

  26. #56

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post
    Most Vanillin available is made from either Lignin or Gaiacol. The only difference, that I could find, is that Vanillin ex Lignin contains a small amount of Acetovanillone. Vanillin from either source will smell pretty similar.
    Good to know they smell similar, thanks David.

  27. #57

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    And neither is the complete smell of old books; which, to me, smell of Dimethyl Anthranilate.

  28. #58

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post
    And neither is the complete smell of old books; which, to me, smell of Dimethyl Anthranilate.
    Thanks David, I must get some!

  29. #59
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    no particular order:

    agarwood (no animalic type)
    vanilla bourbon madagascar absolute
    davana
    patchouli raw
    sandalwood Mysore
    nutmeg
    bergamot
    iso e super
    ambroxan
    ethyl butyrrate
    Last edited by Geco; 18th December 2015 at 07:38 PM.

  30. #60

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Ambroxan
    Nutmeg oil
    Iso E Super
    Diethyl Malonate
    Bergamot oil
    Exaltolide
    Fixateur 505
    Patchouli
    Alpha Damascone
    Hedione




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