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  1. #1

    Red face Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    I thought it would make a lovely Friday topic

    So what are the 10 perfumery raw materials you enjoy working with the most and why?

    (they can be natural, synthetic, blends, resins or other raw raw materials that you like to tincture, everything goes)

    for sharing!
    @SomethingSmelly

  2. #2

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Mine are in no particular order

    Frankincense resinoid (all and any kinds), because it gives grace and gravitas to anything and simply makes me happy
    Hedione (Firmenich), because it's a wonderful filler of an abstract floral without taking over
    Vanillin ex lignin, because it embodies the smell of books
    Valencene biotech, because it's such a nice happy easy going Fanta scent
    Spearmint absolute (Robertet), because it makes any blend shine brighter
    Australian sandalwood (Robertet), because it's such an easy all around woody blender
    Ambergris Essence (IFF), because it's a great fixative and smells of pure seasalt
    Labdanum absolute (all and any kinds), because it's cozy and warm, like fur
    Methyl Diantilis (Givaudan), because carnations are my favorite flowers and it reminds me of gardening
    Velvione (Givaudan), because it gives a velvety feel to anything and has amazing longevity while keeping quiet
    Last edited by Irina; 12th December 2014 at 01:30 PM.
    @SomethingSmelly

  3. #3

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Tuberose organic. This has great depth and richness, different from the absolute. 2019 EDIT: this was an Eden Botanicals product. The product they now sell under the same name is completely different. A fine product but no exceptional depth or richness. On the other hand, much toppier, if you want that.

    IPM tincture of tuberose concrete from Liberty: So refreshing and uplifting, so natural.

    Jasmines, various: The obvious reasons.

    Jasmolactone: Hard to describe why, just so good. Of course very different from Hedione, but like Hedione can be such an improver of a formula without itself being so striking.

    Hedione: Again, the obvious well-known reasons.

    Muscone: Such a deep rich note.

    As-yet-indeterminate "Exaltolide" type material (An older order of what should be Symrise Macrolide Supra, however newer order not at all a favorite): Provides a "mid-high frequency" note, to make an analogy like the effect of a bow on violin strings.

    EDIT: I later determined that genuine Firmenich Exaltolide was best to me;the earlier-purchased Symrise Macrolide Supra (incorrectly sold as Exaltolide) was nearly as good as Firmenich and was what I'd originally liked, but a later-purchased replacement was not satisfactory. Whether that is from Symrise producing inconsistent material or there being a problem with the distributor, JDW, I can't know. Distributor claimed identical product at both times of sale.

    Exaltenone: Like the above, but still higher. Superb blend with Exaltolide-type and muscone.

    Fixateur 505e: Such a fine effect in adding richness and unifying.

    Civet natural: Such a nice sweetness and adds so much attractiveness.
    Last edited by Bill Roberts; 23rd June 2019 at 01:17 AM.

  4. #4
    Super Member nicok's Avatar
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Bill where do you get your jasmolactone?

    My fav materials not in order:

    Benzyl Salicylate - classic, vintage, modern, anything you want. Perfect!

    Lilial - Awesome material. I like all aspects of it. Delicate and lovely.

    Hedione- I always use it. Not for its wow smell but for the magic effect it has on my blends

    Habanolide- Maybe my favourite musk. Fresh and clean

    Iso E- no comment

    Mastic (lentisque) - Sweet and resinous. Can't live without it. Memories from my country.

    Methyl Pamplemousse- For the cologne/ grape fruit feeling it gives

    Javanol- Masterpiece. boosts everything. Very lovely powdery finish

    Labdanum- So ancient. So complex and warm

    Fir balsam abs- OMG. hard to use it, but this marmalade/ forest smell is second to nothing.
    Last edited by nicok; 12th December 2014 at 05:25 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Vigon sells it. I've bought kilo quantities of a few other materials from them; they have kindly provided on request some free samples of some other things, of which that is one. For production this will be a pricey one as it's about $1100/kg from memory. Firmenich makes it, possibly others do as well.

    I don't know of a retail seller of it unfortunately.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    My favourite 10 Perfumery Raw Materials. Hedione, Ambroxan, Tonquitone, Galbanum Oil, Jasmin Abs, Ylang Oil, Oakmoss Abs, Labdanum Abs, Patchouli Oil, Black Current Buds abs. Oh, that's 10 already!!

  7. #7
    Super Member nicok's Avatar
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by David Ruskin View Post
    My favourite 10 Perfumery Raw Materials. Hedione, Ambroxan, Tonquitone, Galbanum Oil, Jasmin Abs, Ylang Oil, Oakmoss Abs, Labdanum Abs, Patchouli Oil, Black Current Buds abs. Oh, that's 10 already!!

    Nearly all naturals. David from your choices I assume that you love chypres.

    Also never smelled black current buds abs.. So curious now.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Patchouli oils, particularly a smoky one. Labdanum. Jasmine abs, Orange flower abs and Ylang oils. Fir balsam abs. Balsam of Peru, Sandalwood, castoreum, oakmoss.
    Last edited by I.D.Adam; 9th February 2015 at 04:49 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by nicok View Post
    Nearly all naturals. David from your choices I assume that you love chypres.

    Also never smelled black current buds abs.. So curious now.
    Smells like cat's pee. Yes, I do love Chypres.

    Am ashamed that I chose nearly all Naturals, and me fighting for the synthetics!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Cypriol, Ambroxan, Iso E Super, Galbanum, Cistus, Adoxal, Frankincense EO, Habanolide, Ambergris Olifac, Saffraleine.... but much more....


  11. #11

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Mine are all kind of old-fashioned:

    Jasmine Abs (Officinale) - For its deep fruity indole notes and the richness it gives even in small amounts.

    Civet Tincture - An "ancient" smell, very provocative.

    Styrax Resinoid - Love the styrene top note - smells dangerous and therefore exciting.

    Sandalwood Oil East Indian - Exotic and mystical yet familiar and comforting.

    Rose Otto - Like Jasmine it adds so much richness in small amounts.

    Vetiveryl Acetate - Especially the cleaner qualities - a very refined woody note.

    Oakmoss Absolute - Really useful to add texture to perfumes.

    Linalool - Beautiful versatile woody-floral top-note. Reminds me of honeysuckle.

    Coumarin - Such a magical smell, what would perfume be without it?

    Tarragon Oil - Refreshing, sophisticated, elegant top note.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Coming from a newby but:

    Castoreum - so rich, leathery, soft, lush.
    Tobacco EO - so rebellious
    Rose Otto - so romantic
    Bergamot - seems to end up in everything
    PEA - ditto, just seems to be the thing that I always fancy a bit of
    Ozmanthus - complex and fruity and floral and lovely
    Clove - in one form or another
    Hedione - obvious reasons
    Civet - how I imagine the Downton Abbey ladies to smell, Rich and a bit dirty.
    Rosewood - I bought some before I learned about the ethical issues. I now mostly use Linalool, but the real McCoy is heavenly.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Yes, please! Don't use rosewood!!

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    I won't buy it again. What I have, I will use (sparingly), but I wouldn't have bought it if I'd been aware of the issues, and I won't another time. Sorry!

  15. #15

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Another -relative- newbie

    Labdanum- for it's rich, dark, resinous qualities.
    Frankincense - for my mental connection with it to incense.
    Bicyclononalactone - for that roasted coconut and tonka profile.
    Vanillin - perfect blender/rounder... and I'm a bit of an oriental fiend.
    Lavender - for the powdery and nuzzle-like effect.
    Coumarin - another nuzzl-y comfort scent.
    Ambergris - for adding such amazing body to even cool and refreshing blends.
    Cardamom - for dancing that line between herbal and spicy.
    Trimethyl Pyrazine - for the most beautiful dry cocoa aspect.
    Champaca C02 - for its floral/incense vibe.
    Last edited by Mellifluous; 14th December 2014 at 05:25 PM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    and yet another newbie

    β-damascone, Haitian vetiver, Norlimbanol, lavender absolute, orris root, cypress, fir balsam absolute (I know I am sick, but I could drink this), tobacco absolute, himalayan cedar, above all: Exaltolide (this I have drunk. I know. I am sick).

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    1. Oakmoss
    2. Castoreum
    3. Musk ketone
    4. Delta-damascene
    5. Orange Flower Absolute
    6. Bacdanol
    7. Isoeugenol
    8. Habanolide
    9. Ylang-Ylang Extra
    10 Benzyl Salicylate

  18. #18

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    So tough to narrow this down.... (and I'm sure I'd change my mind by tomorrow), but:

    1. Vetiver (Haitian)
    2. Ethyl Maltol
    3. Styrax
    4. Petitgrain
    5. Citral
    6. Aurantiol
    7. Cashmeran (or Timbersilk)
    8. Cardamom
    9. Jasmine (grandiflorum and sambac)
    10. Cetalox

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Since I am still cavorting in perfumery kindergarten, I can only share my sniffing favourites or those I keep like treasures.

    Tuberose absolute is one I love. Though many people I showed it to didn't like it at all. It's the one making me understand the „neck and crop” character of absolutes. There is something intimate about this material, at least in my perception.

    My Madagascar vanilla tincture because it is a pretty thing on its own.

    I wonder if I will ever use Perilla/Shiso in a fragrance. It's a bit weird. It is light and intense as the colour lilac.

    What Bergamot is for FollyFlick is Amyris eo for me, I guess. It's especially useful when blending resins!

    I came across Aglaia flower abs when placing my order at Liberty Natural. And I already made successful use of it in some accords. Kind of a mellowed, floralized lemon with a whiff of mint. If I had to create a scent smelling of forest fairies I'd use this as a main ingredient.

    Still not under control but promising: homemade amber tincture (easy as pie). I think of it as a subwoofer aldehyde.

    Castoreum as a ground line. I am experimenting with both, natural and synthetic and find them both performing well in different settings. So, no preference yet, except the ethical.

    Currently I am trying to recreate Benjoin by Prada and had my first really satisfying results with hedione!

    And I like benzoin.

    And tarragon for the reasons Renegade mentioned.



    @Bill, I have the LN concrete as well and love to use it in body cosmetics. It never came to mind I could dilute it in IPM, but will try it soon!
    I mix it in butters with little amounts of vanilla abs, tangerine eo, ambrette seed co2 and amyris. So simple and so much delight.
    liaison carbone
    RAW MATERIALS FOR PERFUMERY

  20. #20

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Great idea for a thread Irina. Thanks!

    To Graphite: can you please share how you do your "easy as pie" amber tincture? i.e. starting materials?

    My ten in no order:
    Grisalva
    Labdanum (and cistus)
    Orange flower
    Jasmine
    Ambroxan
    C-12 Aldehyde MNA
    Ambergris (home made tincture)
    Vanilla (home made tincture)
    Frankincense
    Tuberose

  21. #21

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by Graphite View Post
    @Bill, I have the LN concrete as well and love to use it in body cosmetics. It never came to mind I could dilute it in IPM, but will try it soon!
    I mix it in butters with little amounts of vanilla abs, tangerine eo, ambrette seed co2 and amyris. So simple and so much delight.
    Hi Graphite! My method was simply to warm it briefly, probably to about 60 C, in nine parts IPM, cool, and vacuum filter. It could probably be done well with much less IPM. I used this amount because I'd hoped that settling rather than filtration might give a good result, but this wasn't consistently the case.

    I don't know, but suspect, that if the same supplier to LN also provides to them an absolute, that absolute might well smell about the same as the above. But from LN I had only the concrete, and the result is different from other absolutes I've tried.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Gosh this is hard to narrow down but here goes. It's hard to distinguish favourites from those I like working with because of course the favourites are used so sparingly.

    Ambergris natural tinctures, my own blends from white to black. I think I prefer the stinkier ones

    Sandalwoods, Mysore the best, but need to find a good substitute for obvious reasons. Spicatum is the next.

    Older Patchouli oils, especially the really old Carnaby Street ones

    Vetivers, I particularly love the emerald green and smoky ones. I have many vetivers and continue to seek others.

    Oudhs, if they are good ones, Mostafa and Emerald types.

    Incenses of all types, and that's cheating as one, because there are so many

    Currently I'm really enjoying playing with some coffee tinctures I have made (of many sorts again).

    I have to include good ordinary Benzoin, even though it's almost a waste of a choice, as its use goes without saying really, because there are so many kinds. The levels of sweetness and lights and darks of the caramel nuances in a fragrance can be adjusted so readily and so subtly with the use of the right one

    Jasmine because of its ability to be perceived as a delicate flower yet it can also be a filthy monster. A naughty, naughty deceptive ingredient with manipulatory skills.

    I need to post to count up..... one more.....

    Well it has to be civet really for it's ability to enrich a fragrance, but again I shall have to find a good substitute. I was going to tincture some civet coffee, but after seeing how they were treated, then I changed my mind forever and will never buy civet coffee.
    Last edited by mumsy; 15th December 2014 at 08:40 AM.
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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Roberts View Post
    Hi Graphite! My method was simply to warm it briefly, probably to about 60 C, in nine parts IPM, cool, and vacuum filter. It could probably be done well with much less IPM. I used this amount because I'd hoped that settling rather than filtration might give a good result, but this wasn't consistently the case.

    I don't know, but suspect, that if the same supplier to LN also provides to them an absolute, that absolute might well smell about the same as the above. But from LN I had only the concrete, and the result is different from other absolutes I've tried.
    I just found among my tinctures a bottle with a 16% tincture of the LN concrete in 96.5 ethanol. Totally forgotten about it and filtered it right away.
    My tuberose abs is from Proxisante and smells different to the concrete. The latter more green, the absolute creamier, more compact in texture.

    Do you know where the tuberose organic originates (country)?
    liaison carbone
    RAW MATERIALS FOR PERFUMERY

  24. #24

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    It is not so labeled but I expect it's Egypt, as the only potential producer I've been able to find is the Fakhry company ( http://www.afakhry.com/about.asp?aboutid=4 ) in Egypt. However, as producers are often hard to find, it could be that there is another producer of tuberose organic.

    (EDIT: I'd posted "India" a few minutes ago but that was from misreading the question, and answering regarding the concrete.)
    Last edited by Bill Roberts; 15th December 2014 at 09:24 PM.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Not in order of preference:

    1) Sandalwood
    2) Frankincense
    3) Vetiver
    4) Patchouli
    5) Fir Balsam Absolute
    6) Cedarwood
    7) Vanilla
    8) Styrax Resinoid
    9) Benzoin
    10) Jasmine

    Various varieties of all of the above.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    1. Australian Sandalwood.
    2. Linalool.
    3. Frankincense
    Haven't figured out how to use it real well yet, I want to try the method of collecting the smoke.
    4. Citral
    5. Wintergreen oil
    6. Vanilla
    7. Elemi
    8. Cedar
    9. Rose Abs EO
    10. Citrus oils
    I like citrus oils because they start to go bad fairly quickly. There are many times when I probably wouldn't get out my oils and play around because I don't feel I have any divine inspiration. I'd worry I was wasting oils and therefore money if I didn't have a great plan for the day.
    But since citrus oils don't last as long as others, it keeps me playing with things even when not fully inspired because I'm not saving money because they are going bad just sitting there, so why not try some things out.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    I'd say it goes like this:

    - Hedione
    - Patchouli ( a very smoky one)
    - Vetiveryl acetate
    - Cetalox
    - Verdox
    - Indole
    - Calone
    - Galbanum absolute
    - Alpha damascone
    - Polysantol

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Mine would be:

    Amyl or Iso amyl salycilate (and other salycilates -- I love what they do as blenders)

    Patchouli (can't say more than anyone else on this one, but where would we be without it?)

    Tonka/coumarin an irreplaceable smell so key to many masculine fragrances and a wonderful smell on its own (Tonka)

    Heliotropin (I love the warm, sweet playdough smell, and it works well in blends)

    Methyl diantilis (I also love carnation Irena, and this one is almost good enough to wear neat IMO)

    Sandalwood (alone it is amazing, in a formula magical)

    Cedarwood (and particularly the Texas Cedar coeur from Robertet, an incredibly important building block for many compositions I make)

    Laevo-Muscone (I love this musk which has such an amazing natural rich smell)

    Frangipani absolute (expensive stuff but lovely on it's own and I love it as an anchor in florals)

    Tolu balsam ( my favorite of the resinous balsams, rich, deep mysterious and surprisingly versatile depending on concentration)

  29. #29
    Ingredients Supplier

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    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Happy New Year Friends!

    As a supplier, I am of course reading this thread with much interest!

    If you are having any trouble obtaining any raw materials, kindly drop me a line, as I am now adding more materials to the Perfumer Supply House website in the next 30-60 days. If you are on the mailing list, you will receive an email by the end of this week regarding the latest new products.

    Kind Regards,
    Christine
    christine@perfumersupplyhouse.com

  30. #30

    Default Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Not in order of importance
    Iso e super
    Benzoino
    Galaxolide
    Oak moss
    Vetiver
    Labdano assolute
    Cumarina
    Patchouli
    Sandal
    Vertofix




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